Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg)
Reload this Page >

Stripping threads on crank arms

Notices
Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) Looking to lose that spare tire? Ideal weight 200+? Frustrated being a large cyclist in a sport geared for the ultra-light? Learn about the bikes and parts that can take the abuse of a heavier cyclist, how to keep your body going while losing the weight, and get support from others who've been successful.

Stripping threads on crank arms

Old 09-25-20, 11:50 AM
  #1  
crankarmbreaker
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 35
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 24 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 1 Post
Stripping threads on crank arms

True to my name, I just trashed a set of crank arms! They cost $350 to replace. On the previous set, on which I had 4,600 miles, the steel pedals were going bad. That's not a major crisis, but then when I removed said pedals to replace them, it was really, really hard to remove them, and a huge amount of aluminum came off on the threads of the pedals. And then the crank arms were unusable. I have done this to previous cranksets, too over the years, stripping the crank arm threads in a manner the mechanics said they didn't previously think was possible but then this is you, Eric.

To give a little background, I weigh 350 pounds and am 6 feet 9 inches tall. A year and a half ago, I got a new Rodriguez custom frame bike built for me and they put High Sierra 210mm crank arms on it. I called the High Sierra people to order a new set and they did have a pair in stock and then the salesman told me to use anti-seize lubricant, something I'd never heard of. Turns out it's the sort of thing car mechanics use on spark plugs to keep them from bonding to the other metal. So I got some and boy is it gooey and gets on everything. But I put it on the threads of the new pedals and have been riding for a few weeks since then.

Ok, so the question I have for you: Has anyone here stripped the threads off of crank arms this way? And have you found a solution to it?
crankarmbreaker is offline  
Old 09-25-20, 12:17 PM
  #2  
cyclist2000
Senior Member
 
cyclist2000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Up
Posts: 4,657

Bikes: Masi, Giant TCR, Eisentraut (retired), Jamis Aurora Elite, Zullo, Cannondale, 84 & 93 Stumpjumpers, Waterford, Tern D8, Bianchi, Gunner Roadie, Serotta, and looking for a Brompton M6R or T-line

Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 300 Post(s)
Liked 1,934 Times in 570 Posts
No, I still have the same cranks on my 35+ year old bike (but it hardly gets ridden any more). For 10 years it was my only bike and I put about 3000 miles on it annually.
cyclist2000 is offline  
Old 09-25-20, 12:59 PM
  #3  
Moe Zhoost
Half way there
 
Moe Zhoost's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 2,804

Bikes: Many, and the list changes frequently

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 927 Post(s)
Liked 780 Times in 463 Posts
Moe Zhoost is offline  
Old 09-25-20, 03:22 PM
  #4  
pdlamb
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: northern Deep South
Posts: 7,918

Bikes: Fuji Touring, Novara Randonee

Mentioned: 33 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2094 Post(s)
Liked 1,339 Times in 849 Posts
I haven't stripped the aluminum threads at the pedal interface, probably because I always put plenty of grease on the pedal before I thread it it. Plenty means as much as the threads will hold. If any squeezes out, wipe it off with a paper towel or rag.
pdlamb is offline  
Old 09-28-20, 10:27 AM
  #5  
c_m_shooter
Senior Member
 
c_m_shooter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Paradise, TX
Posts: 2,075

Bikes: Soma Pescadero, Surly Pugsley, Salsa Fargo, Schwinn Klunker, Gravity SS 27.5, Monocog 29er

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 178 Post(s)
Liked 227 Times in 160 Posts
I have broken the threaded insert in a set of Hussefelt downhill cranks on my fatbike. They are now obsolete, so had to replace cranks and bottom bracket to current standards. I have snapped bottom brackets and worn the interface of square taper cranks and bottom brackets. I change pedals regularly, so grease on the threads keeps those from seizing.
c_m_shooter is offline  
Old 09-29-20, 04:45 PM
  #6  
hammond9705
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: DFW
Posts: 1,556
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 24 Post(s)
Liked 597 Times in 105 Posts
Originally Posted by pdlamb View Post
I haven't stripped the aluminum threads at the pedal interface, probably because I always put plenty of grease on the pedal before I thread it it. Plenty means as much as the threads will hold. If any squeezes out, wipe it off with a paper towel or rag.
+1. I also try to remove them, clean the threads and reinstall once a year or so. And watch the thread direction!
hammond9705 is offline  
Likes For hammond9705:
Old 10-08-20, 12:16 PM
  #7  
khyatt
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 17
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
anti-seize is a good idea. dissimilar metals can corrode and/or cold weld together. be careful using it on torque-critical fasteners though, because it can cause inaccurate or inconsistent torquing.
khyatt is offline  
Old 12-15-20, 11:56 PM
  #8  
tallbikeman
Full Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Yolo County, West Sacramento CA
Posts: 472

Bikes: Modified 26 inch frame Schwinn Varsity with 700c wheels and 10 speed cassette hub. Ryan Vanguard recumbent. 67cm 27"x1 1/4" Schwinn Sports Tourer from the 1980's. 1980's 68cm Nishiki Sebring with 700c aero wheels, 30 speeds, flat bar bicycle.

Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 120 Post(s)
Liked 128 Times in 90 Posts
I have always used grease on crank arms. I put grease on the pedal threads and on the axle ends before attaching the cranks. I use grease on the bolts that hold the cranks on the axle. I put grease on my aluminum seatposts before putting them in my steel and aluminum frames. I have never had one slip. I grease both quill stems and threadless fork type stems before attaching them to their forks. Never had any of them slip either. Anywhere things bolt together I put on grease as a form of anti-seize. Pay heed though to khyatt's warning about over tightening. It is easy to do with greased bolts.
tallbikeman is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2022 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.