SpokeApe

Hello everyone.
New to forum as of today and just back to riding due to generosity of a friend.
(sold me a barely used bike for cheep)
I bought his 2004/5 Mongoose Alta.
It had been sitting on his patio nearly since he bought it, impulse buy.
It's in great shape with the exception of a slightly rusty chain and... well thats it.
Used the "search" function but didn't find a post on this, if it's there, I apologise ahead of time.
Is there a chain that is stronger than usual that I can purchase.
I won't be riding much offroad, mainly grass/pavement.
Thanks for any replies ahead of time.
Also if there is anything that pops into your head abt what else I should do to a bike that has sat for a few years, don't hold back.
Abt me.
I started losing weight around Nov. of last year.
Then 340lb now 270lbs.
Mostly cleaned up diet and jogging.
Thanks for your thoughts.
SpokeApe

Air

Welcome!

JumboRider

Hey guy.

Seamus

Is that a mountain or hybrid bike? SRAM chains have a pretty good reputation for strength and durability. Avoid anything with 'light' in the name, or chains with hollow pins.

Also, check brake pads, tires and any other non-metal parts for weather wear, cracking, etc. Grease or lube all pivot points, cables, and any bearings that feel less than smooth (although if it's a modern bike, it may well have sealed bearings).

Jim

BeerBiker

Greetings and welcome to the sickness.

I agree that SRAM chains are among the best and I agree that the bike could probably stand a tune-up. First thing I would do is replace the tires with some high pressure road slicks if you aren't going to ride off road. Otherwise, just get on it and ride. Things will shake themselves out pretty quickly as the miles pile up. Most of all, have fun!

Mark

Stujoe

Welcome! You could always take it to a shop for a good tune up. But, really, most basic things you can check and adjust yourself if you are a bit mech inclined. Basic preventative maintenance. Check that stationary things are tight and that moving things turn and move smoothly with no odd noises...grinding, binding, squealing, etc. Lube as mentioned above.

Other than the chain and a good tighten and lube, I'd be most concerned about brake pads and tires/tubes as they are rubber and can dry rot, etc if it was outside for a couple of years.

Sounds like it won't take much to get it in tip top shape. Have fun!

SpokeApe

Thanks for the greetings, real nice site that I've found from what I've seen/read.
Seamus- It's a Mountain Bike.
I've rode it around in the park for a little while and the tires didn't feel bad at all once I got them up to psi.
I couldn't beileve the sidewall said 60psi, that's as more than my old Honda.
but, sure enough, hit 55 60 and nothing blew up in my face. So that was good.
Things that should move, move and the few things I've found that shouldn't, and did, don't anymore.
Does SRAM stand for something? Will the average bike shop have them?
By road slicks do you mean just less knobby tires? Regular road tires with regular tread or actual slicks like racing? Could you recommend a brand/type?
Thanks again, gonna go read old post now.
SpokeApe

BeerBiker

"Road Slicks" is just a general term to describe a 26" tire that is designed with little or no tread; to be easy rolling like a road tire. They will usually have sidewall ratings up to around 100 PSI. Not only are they easier rolling, but you no longer are forced to listen to the noise produced by nobbies rolling down the street. As far as brands go, there are numerous.

SRAM is just the name brand. I suppose it might stand for something, but any competent bike shop will know what you are asking for.

Good luck and have fun!

Mark

SpokeApe

I'm looking around on the 'net and am having a few problems.
If it says 7-8-9 ring for chain size does that mean 21/24/27 sp bikes? Since mine is 21 go with the 7?
My tires say 26X2.10 will I have to buy new rims to put on the road (slick) tires?
I can't find any in that size?
Most are in decimals, guess I need to brush up on my conversions.
SpokeApe

epcolt

If you have a 21 speed you have a 7 chainring. the numbers are for the rear sprockets. Should be able to find one about anywhere, maybe even WallyWorld.

SpokeApe

Thanks Folks

BeerBiker

Like epcolt said, 7,8,9 refers to the number of cogs on the back. You can run any of those chains on your bike. You can run 9 speed chain on a 7 speed, but you cannot run 7 speed chain on a 9 speed.

As far as tire sizes go, your rims should say on there the minimum width tire to run, but you would be safe running a 1.5" road slick, which is the most comon size.

Mark

SpokeApe

Thanks on the clarification.
Would a 1.5" tire be Ok with a 270lb guy?
SpokeApe

ang1sgt

As some of the other have said the SRAM Chains are really good, and I usually get the one's with a "Power Link" to ease cleaning, install and removal.

For Street Slicks there are all types and many different designs. I like something with a wee bit of tread on it and a higher pressure sidewall. The Michelin Country Rock is one that I've riden and enjoy a lot.

If puncture protection is a concern, the the Bontrager Hard Case in a 26x1.50 is a good choice.

Chris

Wogster

I would take it to an LBS for a tuneup, they can assess everything, and tell you what it needs, it's tough this time of year though, the LBS service department is likely backed up into the middle of the week after next. Chain, brake pads, tires and tubes, are all items they will probably suggest replacing, brake cables are possible as well, should still be under $100 including an hours labour. I wouldn't worry about a tougher chain, chains rust because they are not adequately lubed, to be expected if it sat for a few years on a patio, rain washed the lube off.

You want to lube your chain once every 2 weeks or 500km (300 miles), whichever comes first, this is also a good time to do a complete inspection, look at the brake pads, are they near the wear slots, are the wheels fairly true, make sure everything is tight, are the tires still in good condition, any glass, or other crap stuck in them? Rear tires wear quicker then front ones, if you see a back tire nearly worn out, then you can rotate front to back (some MTB tires are either front or back specific though and can not be rotated at all), but not back to front. So if you wear out a back tire, put the old front tire on the back, and a new one up front, a front tire failure will result in an unplanned (OTB) dismount, with serious injury, a rear tire failure will either cause excessive drag or a rear end washout, both are recoverable without injury. Park your bike either indoors (garage), or put some kind of cover over it, so that rain can't get on it. I keep mine in the garage, locked to an immovable object, under a tarp, to reduce the chance of theft -- if someone looks into the garage, all they see is an old tarp, they don't see the bike under the tarp, if you can't see it, you are not going to steal it.

Get a bottle of chain lube, your dealer can recommend one for your area, basically if conditions are dry, then dry lubes work best, if conditions are wet, then wet lubes work best. Stop at a hardware store and get some degreaser. The stuff they sell at bike shops ¼L for $10 is the same stuff that is 1L for $5 at the hardware store, just with different packaging, just make sure it's safe for plastic and rubber, most of them are, because cars also have plastic and rubber parts.

If using wet lube, buy the bike chain lube at least once, to get the small bottle with the applicator cap, then you can price out motorcycle chain lube, might be cheaper, and come in larger bottles. Some people have good luck with automotive motor oil, although I would price out the motorcycle stuff first, motorcycle chains and bicycle chains live in the same conditions, and have similar stresses. If using a wet lube, you apply one drop to each roller, put a paper towel or old rag under to catch any drips, once you have gone all the way around, wrap a rag lightly around the chain, and run it backwards a few times, it should be fairly dry to the touch, the outside needs very little lube to prevent rust, a chain that looks wet, will simply attract dirt, which gives you that black gooey mess that is all too common.

BeerBiker

Yup, 1.50" will be just peachy.

Mark

SpokeApe

Well............
I went to a bike shop yesterday, and almost got into a punchout with the guy there.
I decided to go and let them check it out / tuneup.
I wheeled it in and the guy looked it over and asked what I wanted. Explained that I bought it from...blah..blah..blah.
Then he proceeds to tell me it is a piece of crap bike and a chain and tires would be more than it is worth!
I can't beleive this and tell him so, the bike looks new and my friend bought it from another bike shop in St. Pete a couple years ago for $400.
Here's the kicker, "Yeah, whatever." he says.
Now I take this personaly. "Are you calling me a liar?"
It escalates, I'm told to leave, He's told that if he puts his hand on me things are going to break..... we exchange pleasntries, I leave.
I'm not an agressive person by nature, but I dislike being called a liar.
Anyhow.
I know it's not a Specialized or a Gary Fisher or any other $$ name, but I want to make sure I dig this (cycling) before I shuck a chunk of cash into it.
I found Forte fast City's for abt $12 on Performance Cycle and a chain there also for abt $20.
I don't know you folks from Adam, with the exception I'm sure you all have bellybutton, but this guy seemed like a !#&*%#!, what do you(s) think?
I'm still a bit pissed just thinking abt it.
Did everyone start off with a $5-$6-&700 bike?

That is the bike above^^^
Shimano Alivio parts, Maxxiss 1166 tires, cantilever brakes. That's all I can remember right now.
If you need more info I'll post what you need.
My Q? Is it a worthless bike?
"whatever", gawd I wanted to choke him out......
Sorry.
SpokeApe

Tom Stormcrowe

Spoke Ape, find another Bike Shop and remember this when you do decide to plunk the cash to buy a new bike. Sounds like an idiot in that shop!

That said, your bike ain't top of the line, but who cares! I started on a lot worse bike than that!(Royce Union, of all things, and I still have it and use it to single track and ride in the winter!)

You might also want to relate this to the LBS manager, assuming this wasn't him!

SpokeApe

DANG!! Sorry that is so BIG!
Mods, please smallificate the pic if possible.
I learn how to post smaller, I promise.
SpokeApe

Tom Stormcrowe

Just set your photobucket settings to a smaller image default size and repost the image, I can't edit the size, all I can do is remove the image.

SpokeApe

Aaaaugh!
Just delete it.
I can't figure it out.
Screw that guy, I like it so I'm fixing it.
Good karma from the Bike Gods for me, I say.
If I'm still riding in a couple months (or he turns out to be correct!), I'll purchase a better one..
SpokeApe

Tom Stormcrowe

It won't hurt anything, just next time upload to photobucket with a smaller display setting, no worries!

BeerBiker

You have to understand that at one time, Mongoose was a "bike shop" brand. Then, they lowered their quality and started selling their bikes in x-marts and they were pieces of *****. Your bike, I think, predates that move and is a quality bike. Still, you can't blame the a$$hole too much for taking one look at the Mongoose tag and assuming it is a department store bike. FWIW, GT and Schwinn have gone down the same road. Find a better bike shop, or do the work yourself. There are plenty of resources online to assist you in doing it yourself, if you are a mind to..

Mark

SpokeApe

I can understand that.
Here's my side.
What I can't excuse is his demeanor. My thinking in his shoes would have been, "Lets set this guy up with a set of inexpensive slick tires and a median priced chain, get this sale for today and when this bike falls apart, he'll come back to my shop and buy that $500^ bike because I took care of him and treated him respectfully." Instead of a possible altercation, bad rep with anyone that asks me abt the shop and loss of future sales and service. Maybe he was having a bad day and I was just the next low class bike in his store and caught the tip "o" the spear. His approach, while possibly justified, not very business savvy. How much cash has this person run off just because the owners bike wasn't up to "his" standards?
I'll do what I can, get the parts off the internet or shop other stores. In a few months when I want to upgradsky, like the poster a few back said, I'll remember this and find another plce to drop my welcomed dead presidents.
Thanks for the views.
SpokeApe

ang1sgt

SpokeApe.

Find another Shop! I can't believe that anyone would say that to you, but I know it happens. From the pic you provided, while the bike is not HIGH END, it looks serviceble and well kept enough to get you many miles and many pounds down the road.
Shoot, the bike I currently ride was a $30 special at Nashbar early this spring. I am sure that some people would snear at this bike too, but then they are not looking past the frame to see the quality parts that are hung on it.

The tires on your look a little dry rotted and that is something I would look to replace first. The chain for now I think could wait.

Why the LBS and their attitude came out, I guess we won't know. Some of these folks need to understand that not everyone buys $1000 plus bikes. But, you need to treat everyone like they ARE buying a $1000 bike whether they are or not and you had better take care of them.

Sorry you had a problem with them!

Chris