Bike for Big and Tall ?
 

I'm looking for a sturdy bike that will support my 6' 2" 340lb frame comfortably? I currently have a late 90's Specialized Hard Rock that is sturdy but just not comfortable for me. I have the seat adjusted up where just my toes touch the ground but the crank set carrier is up high (mountain bike - for ground clearance ?) so when I pedal my knees are forced outward, causing sore knees after just a few miles. The bike has a 21" frame, do I need a taller (larger) frame bike or a bike with the pedals closer to the ground so that my knees don't go outward?
I use the bike for leisurely rides around my neighborhood and on local paved bike trails. Any suggestions ?

Your problem may be that the seat is too low.

Your seat needs to be adjusted in relation to your pedals, not whether or not you can touch the ground while seated. In fact, you shouldn't be able to touch the ground while seated, at least on a road bike. You want your knee to be just about in perfect line with your foot on the pedal with the cranks at the 9:00 and 3:00 positions. Adjust your seat accordingly, then use a sharpie to mark 1/8 or 1/4 increments, and raise and lower as you ride to find the sweet spot.

There are a lot of Hard Rock riders here, so hopefully some of the more taller folks can chime in on frame size. I'm just not that knowledgeable on MTB sizing.

Welcome to the herd! There is a lot of help and support here. You will enjoy the group.

I'd guess the frame size to be about right. How much more can you raise the seat? Most seat posts have a high limit mark, if you're not extended out that far try raising your seat. You want you leg almost straight at the bottom of the stroke while sitting on your seat.

You might look at the Trek Navigator.
http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/2008/bike_path/navigator/navigator30/

I have used one, a 21" 3.0 version, with some with great results and I'm sized similarly.
The seat post suspension, front suspension [which can be switched off if wanting a better speed on pavement] and wider 26" semi-road/semi trail tires also provide some cush, plus the relaxeed frame geometry allows a natural and more upright riding position.

I've now lost some of the weight and am moving into two other bikes. So, I happen to have mine up for sale in Phoenix Craigslist. I'm not trying to "plug" my bike for sale. I do say that my experience with the Trek Navigator 3.0 has been great.

+1 tx, the seat is definatly too low if he can touch the ground when seated.

Measure how far from the ground your pedal is when it's in the 6:00 position. Subtract an inch then raise your seat that much from where it is now. When your foot is on the pedal in the 6:00 your knee should almost be locked out. This seems very counter intuitive but trust us, your knees will thank you.

Regarding the frame, stand over the frame between the seat and handlebars with both feet flat on the ground while facing forward. Grab the stem with your left hand and the nose of your saddle with your right hand (still facing forward) and pick it up until it bumps your tender bits. You should have about 1.5 to 2 inches of clearance. If you have considerably more then the bike frame is too small. If you can't stand over it at all without the top tube being in your package then the bike is too big.

Bau

Also, look into the Giant line up, I hear they make pretty big bikes :lol:

j/k although Giant does make very nice bicycles, check into them anyways if your considering a new ride.

:roflmao2::roflmao2: OK, it really wasn't THAT funny, but not bad.

Actually, Giant makes a pretty good machine for their entry level rides, the uper stuff is just plain SCHAWEEET.

Bau's advice about wanting your legs almost fully extended at the bottom of your pedal stroke is spot on.

The advice about checking clearance to determine fit, not so much. That used to be the rule with traditional geometry road frames, but with any mountain frame, or with a newer compact road frame the rule does not hold. If you can get comfortable on it (after raising the seat), then it's the right size. You should have LOTS of clearance between the top tube and your tender bits (because it's a mountain ride)

Correct the_mac, my advice was just for a ballpark idea and shouldn't be taken as an absolute. It is generally a good measurment for bicycles with a relativly flat top tube like the OP has. I'd be a bit leary on the advice of "LOTS" of clearance based soly on the fact that it is a mountain ride. Yes you do want some clearance but too much and you'll be bunched up on your torso even though you got the pedal stroke right. Back pain etc. Remember, this is 90's hardrock sport not a squishy down hiller.

If you are unsure by all means take the bike to a shop for a tune up and quick fit :thumb:

I raised the seat up a good 3 or 4 inches and it helped a bunch. My knees are no longer sore after I ride. I suspect that I will also need to raise the handlebars as well since now it seems like more of my weight is being placed over the bars now.

Great news. Getting everything adjusted can be a pain, but having everything dialed in helps tremendously to move a ride from being work to being fun.

Now that you have a ball park seat adjustment, take fine point sharpie and mark your current position on your seat post, then a few 1/4 inch increments above and below your starting point. You can do this on your stem as well, but tape might be a better option depending on the finish.

Try a ride or two in different adjustments. 1/4 inch might not sound like much, but it can make a huge difference. The same goes for your bars. It's a safe bet that raising your seat will indeed put more pressure on your arms and hands if you leave the bars at the same place.