Do I weigh too much for the stock wheelset? WTF?
 

So i am about to get an 09 Caad 9.6 but I have been told by several people that I am too heavy (260lb) for the stock wheelset.....I am at the end of my budget on the bike and don't want to have to get a new wheelset just because I weigh too much for the original ones on my soon to be brand new bike:notamused: Is this true or are they just rumors.....I really hope that this is just a few misinformed people:(

NM, waste your money!

what wheelsets are out there that will be strong enough yet aren't too expensive?

I would go for the Mavic Aksiums; they're lighter for 2008 and are an excellent entry level of Mavic's road wheelsets.

http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/167...elset-2008.htm

You really have to keep an eye out for PricePoint, Performance, Nashbar and Competitive to snag a better deal.

NM, waste your money!

NM, waste your money!

NM, waste your money!

if those mavics are good I may get em......I wonder if my lbs would be willing to give me a discount on the bike if I let them keep the stockers

Misinformed people?:p

Is this a good deal for wheels?
 

Here is a links to what I believe is a good set of clyde wheels. The price seems to be good also. I have seen the same wheel with ultegra hubs for $200 on this web site. What do you think Mr Beanz?




http://store.bicyclewheels.com/merch...egory_Code=RWN

Mac, in the NW it's going to be especially advantageous to get the lightest, most durable wheels to climb. I'm always going to recommend Mavics (in this case, the Aksiums) because I've had such good experiences with them. They are not the lightest wheels, so road cyclists always chime in to say "go lighter with something else."

Just to give you an idea, I'm 210 and have been riding Ksyrium ES's on the road bike and Crossmax's on the Hardtail for awhile, often in NYC. I rode these when I was 20 lbs heavier with no problem, as well. I consider the Aksiums to be even more durable, but heavier than the Ksyrium ES's, but you'll still notice a big difference climbing with these wheels and a good set of Gatorskins or GP4000's. Good luck.

What are you saying? OP doesn't need new wheels or these aren't the right kind:notamused:

At 260lbs I wouldn't buy a 20 spoke wheel. For the OP I would ride the original wheels until I had too many problems with them, and at that point I would get a handbuilt set with 32 spoke front and 36 rear. I like the Mavic OP/Ultegra hub combo from Colorado Cyclist, and a lot of people here have had good expereinces with Deep V. The most important thing is to get a set that is hand made by someone who knows what they are doing. A lot of the wheels that you see are factory made and not well tensioned.

You should be good on the stockers for awhile. I'm 265 and have the same bike. I have a few hundred miles on it, including a few good knocks to the wheels including a set of rail road tracks that were sticking up way higher above the pavement than I thought. I'm hoping to get a couple thousand miles out of them. We shall see. . .

I'm 245# & ride the stock 20/24 spoke wheels on my '06 Giant OCR Limited. I haven't had any problems to date. I do recommend however, after a few hundred miles to get the spokes/wheels retensioned & trued. It may not look like they need the maintenance, but it will go a long way to increase the lifespan of the wheels & prevent broken spokes. Just my $0.02.........

I weigh about what you do. I got years out of CXP33 rims with nothing more than having them trued up in the Spring.
http://www.coloradocyclist.com/product/display/25350/

The big question is do you really need a lightweight set of wheels if you are just training on them.. You would be better served to get a set Velocity Deep V or Fusions.. Open Pros or DT Swiss RR 1.1 or RR 1.2's.

You can get the Deep V or Fusions from Wheelbuilder.com for under 300.00.. Deep V come in 3 cross 32 hole or Fusions which are a little lighter weight come in 36 hole 3 cross.. You can of course have a shop build a set for you but that would end up bringing the cost up to 350 to 500.00 for a custom set of wheels..

http://www.wheelbuilder.com/thumbnai...&deep=3&cid=37

Here are a few discussions that will hopefully help you decide:

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...um#post7378509
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...um#post6955552
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...um#post6294895
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...um#post5711302
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...um#post5506132

It's actually both, true and rumour (huh?, let me explain)

Given a rider with a 36 spoke wheel and weighing <150lbs the zone of usable spoke tension is very wide, but as rider weight increases and/or the spoke count decreases, that zone narrows, a 20 spoke wheel with a 260lb rider is going to have that zone of acceptable spoke tension razor thin around the optimum spoke tension.

Most bike shops don't have a good wheel guy who can get a wheel to that zone of acceptable tension for a larger rider with lower spoke count wheels, with spoke tension too low, spokes allow the rim to flatten slightly, which bends the spokes, and when you constantly bend a piece of steel wire back and forth rapidly it breaks. The constant flexing can also cause micro-cracks in the rim itself, it generally results in wheel failure at some point. This is why people recommend heavier duty wheels.

However some bike shops have a good wheel guy, who trues and tensions every wheel out the door, they
get the spokes to the right zone of tension, the spokes keep the rim from flattening, and the spokes don't get bent and the rim doesn't crack, so they say that all this talk of heavier duty wheels is so much male bovine excrement.

So yeah, it's true and false.:D

ruh roh Mr. Beans had a hissy fit :P.......I am just going to stick it out with the stockers till they break I think....i would get them retentioned and trued after a couple hundred miles but idk how to guage when that is....thanks for all the responses and I am sorry if i offended you Mr. Beans :p

By the way what are the stock wheels, I hope they are not alex brand.. The problem with low spoke wheels is that if you break a spoke, you better have cab fare money..

Nope, no hissy fit here. Just named good rims like the V and CXP 33's. But seems the OP is looking for cute looking wheels that aren't any better than the stock junk. I opened up the first link, guy has an Aksium in the front and a V in the rear. Wonder why! Second link the guy's ride was equipped with Aksiums. He's taking them off and selling them on Ebay! Wonder Why! Last review I read on Aksiums, the guy says he has had no problems after a year with the wheels, but he's been off the bike for 10 months!:p...That's enough wasted time! I always laugh when rider give durabilty reports with a couple hundred miles of good luck! My reviews are posted after 16,000;thumb:

OP is 260, that's a little different than 210. I know I can't afford to throw away a few hundred bucks to learn a lesson, maybe he can!:roflmao2:

The stockers are Shimano WH 500A.....the reason I was looking at the mavics was because your suggestion seemed like you were giving the option to build a set and I was looking for a built set....it is a great option and I might go that direction later down the road

I have the same wheels on my CAAD9 and no problems so far. I weight 230-235. I have about 6-700 miles on them.

Having just the rear is not very expensive and much more durable. The front will last a while.

Colorado Cylcist has built sets of the CXP 33's. Sometimes on sale for about $300. 32 hole Ultegra hubs are dern good! Some riders wait for coupon specials that take the price down another 50 bucks or so.:thumb: