theungeek

Hey,

Im looking for a bicycle that can accomdate someone my size. I've been blogging my weight loss from my high of 694lbs down to my goal of three hundred. Well, to ease the suffering so to speak I set mini goals. One of them is a lance armstrong goal, to be at 500lbs by the end of the tour de france at which point I would reward myself with a Bike. However I cant find a bike that will work for me, for less than $2,000.

The link to it is here - I emailed that site for more details which came back undeliverable, which makes me weary of purchasing it, even if i could afford it:
https://www.supersizedcycles.com/prod...avyDutyBicycle

I cant afford that bike, however its the exact style I want for the most part. Something that I can go path riding on etc, or take it to a park. My question is, does anyone know of a bike that will work for someone at about 6`3 550lbs+. I would love to start riding again, just for the cardio alone.

Regards,
James
www.fawkem.com - start weight 694lbs current weight 665lbs.

Bacardi_Limon

James,
Congrats on the weight loss! I was thinking maybe the Lightfoot Magnum https://www.lightfootcycles.com/magnum.htm would be good choice. It's a trike and says it'll fit 300+ lbs. Just a suggestion.
Victor

CliftonGK1

Worksman bicycles are pretty stout pieces of equipment, although I'm not sure of an exact weight spec on them. You might try emailing or calling them.

theungeek

I was looking for a more traditional style bike, although they did have some interesting options. However, they are still in that 2,000 range. I was looking for something at 1k or below, lol preferably below. Thanks for the replies..

neilfein

I see trikes on Craigslist from time to time. Like this one:

https://cnj.craigslist.org/bik/1023068706.html

The ad says it comes with "bragging rights", so what could be bad?

IceNine

James, nice job on the way you're approaching this. I'd agree with the worksman idea. Would something like this Cruiser be workable? You could get it with a 7 speed internal hub and still be under-budget.

662lb Bicycle? - Bike Forums

theungeek

I actually emailed the to see what capacity the bike has... that is definately under budget, so hopefully I will hear something good. Thanks for the info

StephenH

I think they say the limit on the cruiser is 300 or 350, I forget which.
The Worksman Personal Actiivity Vehicle would be one option.
I think there are a couple of recumbent trikes that are good for similar weights, based on previous posts here.

jsharr

We used to a have a member named Mikabike I believe who was around 600 lb. He rode a Kona Hoss.

https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=510140

If you search members for Mikabike, you can find many of his old thread about the bike, mods, etc.

theungeek

I actually heard back from worksman rather fast, they only have a trike that could work with modifications. He said I would be looking at at $1300 bucks but thats is one outside my price range, and two not a traditional style.. Im just not into trikes.

I will keep looking for now for something more traditional.

sstorkel

FYI, the bike you linked to is completely over-priced! Chro-moly is cheap, especially if you don't need thin-wall tubing. When I built my chro-moly frame, I think the cost of materials was less than $100. That includes all of the tubing, drop-outs, braze-ons, etc. I think I bought the same Dimension fork they're using and paid $60 for it. Not sure how you get from there to a $1970 MSRP...

If you want a cheap bike to ride around the neighborhood, you might take a look at beach cruisers. Most of these are built with stout tubing, because it's cheaper to produce than the thin-wall stuff used on performance bikes. Prices start in the $200-400 range, though most of the bikes in that range are probably single- or three-speed designs. For a bit more money, you can find bikes that use either Shimano's Nexus internal-gear hubs (available in 3-, 7-, and 8-speed versions) or traditional derailleurs (e.g. K2 Big Easy or Big Easy Deuce). A cruiser will have a comfortable, upright riding position.

The one downside with a cruiser is that they tend to come with cheap wheels. Lots of spokes, but probably machine-made and of lower quality. Getting the shop you buy from to check the spoke tension may help with durability, but it wouldn't be a bad idea to put a little money aside in case you need to buy better wheels at some point.

theungeek

Doesnt look like Mike has been around in two years and hasnt posted on his blog since feb of last year. I sent a message to him though, maybe I will hear back. I couldnt find the post specific to his bike though.

bonzojohns1962

james,
i was gonna also mention the kona hoss..also well done on your loss..i have had the surgery and have dropped from 490 to 336..i have been to your site and believe me you are going about things with the right attitude..wish i could have cycled my way to good health as i am sure you will...
cheers
mark
uk

jsharr

That is why I say we used to have a member named Mikabike. He does not post any longer. I hope is doing well.

Here is the thread about his Kona

https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...680&highlight=

It appears he has killed all the photo links and password protected his image account, but you can still read about his experiences.

pipes

I started out at 371 lbs and on a Torker Boardwalk 7 speed beach crusier I still ride it now a LOT . Iam sure that bike would hold 400 lbs and hold help well but I just do not know if it would hold up to 500 lbs. The Torker is a tank of a bike . Built really well and there some place in the $400.00 area. Good luck and keep losing that weight dude .I think the frame would take your weight but you most likely would need some custom wheels . Iam no expert forsure there might even be some kina mass produced wheels that would do the trick . I know you want a reg bike but IMHO a trike makes more sense to me you don't want to take a fall at any weight but at 500lbs it could be catastrphic just my 2 cents if it worth that .

Torker gets NO air time here on the forums but they are a hell of a good bike at a good price .

By the way I had zero problems with my wheels at 371 lbs on my Torker and I really rode it hard and still do !!!

StephenH

Take a look at this cycle: https://www.lightfootcycles.com/magnum.htm

This is the one I've seen in previous posts. I believe they can customize this for heavier-than-standard riders (the "standard" rating is 450 lbs).

Load ratings on bicycles are complicated. Bikes don't collapse when people just sit on them. They get the maximum stresses when they hit bumps, or get fatigued under heavy cranking. But in either case, the load that can be carried is highly variable depending on how fast you ride, how smooth the road is, etc. Meaning that bikes intended for somewhat lighter people might in fact work just fine for you- but it's hard to say for sure.

From reading, and from my experience on one bike, the weak point of bicycles is usually the wheels, not the frame itself.

I've never read anything on the subject, but bicycle seats tend to be sort of a 1-size affair. Meaning, if you weigh twice or three times the average rider, you're still going to be putting that weight on the same size seat, pretty much. Which means a seat that might be comfortable for other people might turn up to be very uncomfortable for you. This would be one motivation to go with the recumbent-type trikes, where they have more flexibility in the style of seat used.

You'd have some similar issues with the pedals, perhaps the handlebars. You have the potential to put a lot more load into them than what the manufacturers might be anticipating. That might or might not be a problem.

theungeek

I am thinking of going with an "industrial" bike, and seeing what happens. I will stop by the Richardson Bike mart, just cause I heard some good things. Thanks for all your help, hopefully you will be hearing something good out of me soon.

I did check on where Mikeabike - got his wheels and I think Plano's XL Cycles is closed?


James
Blogging my way down from 694lbs!
www.fawkem.com - my blog site

StephenH

I didn't realize you were in this area.
Call this guy and see if he still has his Worksman- great deal if he does. It's in Tyler.
https://easttexas.craigslist.org/bik/1021327570.html
The fenders are rusty, but that's just cosmetic. It's a one-size-fits-all frame, if you're over 6', probably go with something else. It's not an antique like he thinks, I don't believe. Make sure it has the super-heavy looking wheels on it, that's a good part of the value of the bike.

I don't think anyone around here stocks industrial bicycles. There's an outfit down in the Houston area that does. I ordered my Worksman directly from Worksman.

Bill Kapaun

I have a somewhat different approach-
Get a "solid" older RockHopper or HardRock without suspension. Suspension would just be bottomed out for you anyway.
Get your wheels custom built by someone like Peter White etc. that will listen to your needs. Probably a 48 spoke for the rear?
https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/Wheels.asp

Tandem bikes have a larger spacing in the rear, because it allows the rear wheel to have less "dish", resulting in a stronger wheel. Look at a rear wheel and note how the spokes on the drive side are almost straight, compared to the other set of spokes.
You could then have the dropouts respaced for a "tandem" width, and appropriate wheels custom spaced to fit. Another take on that is use a 7 speed cassette on a 135MM spaced bike (typical 8/9 speed MB)
Also, stick with less than an 8 speed. Anything over 7 speed has a wider cassette and contributes to the "dishing" problem.
Use "fat" tires. A little more flex will act like suspension, absorbing some of the "jolts" from the inadvertent pothole etc.
You will want to keep on smooth pavement anyway.
I would expect a smaller diameter MB rim to be a bit stronger than the larger 700C rim.

The REAR wheel is the one of most concern.
More of your weight is on it, and you are basically tying to "unwind" 1/2 the spokes when you pedal. The front wheel is "symmetrical", so it doesn't have the dishing & torque problems.
I'd also stick to rim brakes to avoid stresses that disk brakes would put on the spokes.

Lastly, I'd learn how to regrease/replace the bearings in the hubs. You will want to perform maintenance on them more frequently. All you really need is a couple cone wrenches for that.

Neil_B

James,

First, congratulations on the weight loss plan. I'm amused that it kicked off on my birthday. But it's not for that reason this former 400 pounder is in your corner. You can do it. Go James Go!

Secondly, the Specialized Hardrock is the unofficial 'uberClyde' bike of the forum. It's biggest fan is Bdinger, a regular poster here who went from 500 some pounds to near 300. Big Ben, got your ears on?!? We need your input.

For another opinion, you might want to look into buying an old steel touring bike such as a Trek 520 and upgrade components. Scott Culshall in Minneapolis dropped from 500 pounds to 200 by riding such a bike:

https://www.startribune.com/lifestyle...tml?page=1&c=y

LarDasse74

Welcome!

As others have said, a normal bike is not going to collapse underneath you - it is long term durability that you need to be concerned about, and wheels are the most obvious weak point on most factory bikes -just about everyone on this forum has had wheels that began breaking spokes after very little riding.

I agree that something with a stout frame and a rigid fork - like maybe a Specialized hardrock or Kona Hoss with the suspension fork swapped out for a rigid one - will probably fit the bill. A bike shop can probably get you a hub and rim with 48 spokes to build a bombproof rear wheel. I reccomend also trading the stock knobby tires for lightly treaded road tires to make your riding more fun and rewarding.

Good luck!

theungeek

hey everyone,

Thanks for all the input and keep it coming... Im actually emailing everyone you guys have mentioned to see what exactly my options are. So far, I keep hearing the words trike.. Which I might bite the bullet and get one. I spoke with someone at grapevine bicycles and he is going to get back to me.

I also emailed Peter about the wheels, and Bob about the bike he built previously. Hopefully something good wil come. If anyone knows anything about a place in DFW with industrials in stock, let me know. Again, you guys are awesome.. never thought I would get this much input.

James
Blogging my way down from 694lbs!
www.fawkem.com - my blog site

BigBikerChick

James and other responders,
I love that people are looking for and concerned about bikes for big people! Also, as the owner of https://www.SuperSizedCycles.com, I was distressed to read that you got a return message, James. Please forward that to me, because I certainly don't want to be missing people's questions.

About A New Leaf, the bike you mentioned. It's a great bike, and while I appreciate sstorkel's observation that the bike is way overpriced, he clearly doesn't understand everything that we put into that bike. It is not sufficient just to get a bike that is built from cro-molly. It needs to be designed to hold the weight, it needs to have sturdy rims and thick, wide, tires, the right spacing, the right seat post, the right seat, etc. Right now A New Leaf is actually a steal--the only way to get a comparable bike is to get a custom-built, which would cost 2 times as much.

James, at your bike goal weight of 500 pounds you do NOT need to settle for a tricycle. A tricycle is great, but only if that's what you want. You can have a bike at that weight, and you'll be able to ride it without fear.

Keep up the great work!

bdinger

James,
Welcome! I've had a lot of experience being a big dude on a lot of bikes, and I'll be happy to share those. For your goal size you are going to need something with modifications, but you should be able to make it happen. I weigh 350 and ride a Surly Long Haul Trucker, which I started riding when I weighed around 388 last year (yeah, it's been a slow year ). The only thing I've done to it to accommodate my weight is to have the stock rear wheel rebuilt by hand by a great wheelbuilder. Neil (The Historian) is correct, I'm a HUGE (in certain ways ) fan of the Specialized hardrock, I started riding one at around 420lbs, no modifications at all. The stock wheel lasted for over 2,000 miles before developing cracks, and I had it replaced just recently with something even tougher.

Just my opinon, but I would say for 500lbs you would be able to ride either of these two bikes, assuming you are losing weight consistently and quickly on them. One thing that is going to get you is wheels - at that weight you'll kill 'em. Either bike with a tandem wheelset (40-48 spokes) will do you well, and be sure to run wide tires on in. The Surly comes with 700x37's, which would be fine for you, and the Hardrock's 26x2.1 knobbies would work, but I'd go with something like a Schwalbe Marathon in 26x2 or Big Apple in 26x2.

One last note: I've been there, well close. 567 was my top number, and it was a different world. It sucked, simply. 350 ain't great, but my life has changed dramatically for the better. Don't stop -even for a second - because if you do it's a slippery slope with a jetpack on your back. You've gotta want it, and want it BADLY. I've been there, done that, written the book, etc. My brother lost a bunch of weight - like, he probably went from 450 down to the 200's, but he slipped up. Now he's back up there, and I can tell it isn't a good place.

Keep with it - we're all around here, and a good group to boot.

PlatyPius

Call Surly and ask them about the weight limit on a Pugsly. Considering the fact that it essentially uses motorcycles tires, I think you might be good there.