Which is a Uber Clyde bike?? Pics
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Which is a Uber Clyde bike?? Pics
Looked at a used M 400 Cannondale? $150
Haro Freeline 2? $250
1991 Rockhopper? $130
1999 stump jumper? $350
Haro Freeline 2? $250
1991 Rockhopper? $130
1999 stump jumper? $350
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A 300 lb or + Clyde.
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I'd be looking hard at the rigid forked white one on the right. (Assuming the frame is the correct size you you and note, it's either single speed or fixed gear, can't tell which)
Actually, any of them should do right by you.
Actually, any of them should do right by you.
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. “He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you.”- Fredrick Nietzsche
"We can judge the heart of a man by his treatment of animals." - Immanuel Kant
. “He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you.”- Fredrick Nietzsche
"We can judge the heart of a man by his treatment of animals." - Immanuel Kant
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it is a single sped it has a Surley conversion. My concern was the wheels and comfort I am just getting back into it and want to save some $ to upgrade the bike if needed.
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I'd go for the Rockhopper. It is going to be geared pretty low if your planning on using it as a road bike though. Of course I may be a little biased.
Last edited by c_m_shooter; 02-24-09 at 09:36 PM.
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Really hard to answer without knowing how you intend to ride and without knowing more about the condition of each of the bikes in question. I'd be inclined to go with Rockhopper as I would prefer a rigid fork, but hard to say which would work best for you.
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I'd drop 8 and a half and buy em all! ya justcant have too many!
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Very difficult to answer... although if the Rockhopper had gears it would make it easier to decide.
And if it fits and is in good condition (inspect the frame closely for cracks) the Stumpjumper is a hell of a bike for the price.
The other thing you may not have noticed is thay these are three different sized bikes... The little black one is much much smaller than the other three - probably only good for someone up to ~5'5" max. How tall are you and what size are the frames?
FWIW, if you buy a single speed converted bike with the intent of putting gears on it you might as well get a new bike from the get-go... then you get a warranty against frame breakage, bike shop service, and a choice of sizes and models. $400 gets you a reasonable bike. Try to find something without suspension or disc brakes if your budget is tight.
And if it fits and is in good condition (inspect the frame closely for cracks) the Stumpjumper is a hell of a bike for the price.
The other thing you may not have noticed is thay these are three different sized bikes... The little black one is much much smaller than the other three - probably only good for someone up to ~5'5" max. How tall are you and what size are the frames?
FWIW, if you buy a single speed converted bike with the intent of putting gears on it you might as well get a new bike from the get-go... then you get a warranty against frame breakage, bike shop service, and a choice of sizes and models. $400 gets you a reasonable bike. Try to find something without suspension or disc brakes if your budget is tight.
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The suspension fork bikes are non-starters. Forget about it. They are made for people that weigh 150 pounds or so.
Just pick a decent rigid frame mountain bike in your size. You should be able to find one in the $100 to $150 range.
I would also forget about any single speed bike, unless you live in a really flat area and have legs of steel.
+1 Going from single speed to multispeed costs money and is not worth it when you can find ready to ride multispeed bikes for a lot less than the conversion cost.
+1 Dramatic variation in bike size. You really need to determine what size fits you, and then only look for bikes in your size. Lots of advice on sizing if you search the archives.
Here's what I did to my 1992 Trek 950. Add slicks and trekking bars, and you have a urban bike.
Good luck!
Just pick a decent rigid frame mountain bike in your size. You should be able to find one in the $100 to $150 range.
I would also forget about any single speed bike, unless you live in a really flat area and have legs of steel.
+1 Going from single speed to multispeed costs money and is not worth it when you can find ready to ride multispeed bikes for a lot less than the conversion cost.
+1 Dramatic variation in bike size. You really need to determine what size fits you, and then only look for bikes in your size. Lots of advice on sizing if you search the archives.
Here's what I did to my 1992 Trek 950. Add slicks and trekking bars, and you have a urban bike.
Good luck!
Last edited by wrk101; 02-26-09 at 03:29 PM. Reason: clarification
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I belive the bike in the first pic does have a rigid fork!!
Found another Cannondale for $300 that supposidly has $1200 in parts in it Here is a list
and pic
Specialized seat and seat post. Specialized handlebar. New shimano cassette and rims. . Two water botle holder on seatpost. Rims are shimano
Thr real question is should I jump on this if it is the correct size?
Found another Cannondale for $300 that supposidly has $1200 in parts in it Here is a list
and pic
Specialized seat and seat post. Specialized handlebar. New shimano cassette and rims. . Two water botle holder on seatpost. Rims are shimano
Thr real question is should I jump on this if it is the correct size?
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I belive the bike in the first pic does have a rigid fork!!
Found another Cannondale for $300 that supposidly has $1200 in parts in it Here is a list
and pic
Specialized seat and seat post. Specialized handlebar. New shimano cassette and rims. . Two water botle holder on seatpost. Rims are shimano
Thr real question is should I jump on this if it is the correct size?
Found another Cannondale for $300 that supposidly has $1200 in parts in it Here is a list
and pic
Specialized seat and seat post. Specialized handlebar. New shimano cassette and rims. . Two water botle holder on seatpost. Rims are shimano
Thr real question is should I jump on this if it is the correct size?
Maybe if you add up the purchase price for all the bikes that donated parts to that cannondale it would be true.
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The rim on the Cannondale is a T-L18 is this a clyde friendly wheel
also found this set (Sun big mamoth fats)??? Clyde friendly??
https://ocala.craigslist.org/bik/1043012966.html
also found this set (Sun big mamoth fats)??? Clyde friendly??
https://ocala.craigslist.org/bik/1043012966.html
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I'd go for the Stumpjumper. I've been rolling mine since i bought it new back in 1996. It's bomb proof and Stumpjumpers are always a better built bike then a Rockhopper.
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I'm an Uberclyde. These two rides work for me.
Hardrock Pro with Deore & XT deraillures, Truvative 5D crank, Surly Instigator forks, Ditch Witch wheels, Brooks saddle & Easton Hi Rise bars and stem. Currently has 1.6 slicks, but I'm switching back to my Panaracer Fire DH 2.3's next week.
Bianchi Axis a Cross bike from the late 80’s. All stock except for Brooks B17 saddle and Schwelbe Marathon Supreme 35x700c tires.
Hardrock Pro with Deore & XT deraillures, Truvative 5D crank, Surly Instigator forks, Ditch Witch wheels, Brooks saddle & Easton Hi Rise bars and stem. Currently has 1.6 slicks, but I'm switching back to my Panaracer Fire DH 2.3's next week.
Bianchi Axis a Cross bike from the late 80’s. All stock except for Brooks B17 saddle and Schwelbe Marathon Supreme 35x700c tires.