They squeal like a piggy on a spit
#1
Downtown Spanky Brown
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They squeal like a piggy on a spit
Got a Q for the mechanically inclined.
I got a set of linier pull brakes (V-brakes) that squeal horribly with the front being considerably worse. Research has indicated that I should "toe-in" the brake pads. To do so I intend on using a shim of some sort but I was wondering if it really is as simple as loosening the bolt that holds the pad to the arm, shimming the pad out, then retightening. It would seem to me that the act of retightening would square the pad back out to its current position. If anyone has any suggestions I would sure appreciate it. Any thoughts on what else it could be? The rims are brand new as are the brake pads, pad position on the rim appears to be proper.
I got a set of linier pull brakes (V-brakes) that squeal horribly with the front being considerably worse. Research has indicated that I should "toe-in" the brake pads. To do so I intend on using a shim of some sort but I was wondering if it really is as simple as loosening the bolt that holds the pad to the arm, shimming the pad out, then retightening. It would seem to me that the act of retightening would square the pad back out to its current position. If anyone has any suggestions I would sure appreciate it. Any thoughts on what else it could be? The rims are brand new as are the brake pads, pad position on the rim appears to be proper.
#2
Insane Bicycle Mechanic
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Got a Q for the mechanically inclined.
I got a set of linier pull brakes (V-brakes) that squeal horribly with the front being considerably worse. Research has indicated that I should "toe-in" the brake pads. To do so I intend on using a shim of some sort but I was wondering if it really is as simple as loosening the bolt that holds the pad to the arm, shimming the pad out, then retightening. It would seem to me that the act of retightening would square the pad back out to its current position. If anyone has any suggestions I would sure appreciate it. Any thoughts on what else it could be? The rims are brand new as are the brake pads, pad position on the rim appears to be proper.
I got a set of linier pull brakes (V-brakes) that squeal horribly with the front being considerably worse. Research has indicated that I should "toe-in" the brake pads. To do so I intend on using a shim of some sort but I was wondering if it really is as simple as loosening the bolt that holds the pad to the arm, shimming the pad out, then retightening. It would seem to me that the act of retightening would square the pad back out to its current position. If anyone has any suggestions I would sure appreciate it. Any thoughts on what else it could be? The rims are brand new as are the brake pads, pad position on the rim appears to be proper.
V-brake squeal is a common issue. Other causes are:
1.Contaminated pads and/or rims (clean thoroughly, finishing with alcohol)
2. poor surface finish (smooth with Scotch-Brite pad)
3. loose fitting brake pivots (not much you can do- swap the brakes or the bike)
I've had a couple different bikes that squealed horribly after I put on Kool-Stop salmon colored pads and brand-new Velocity rims. The squeal went away when I switched to Kool-Stop black pads. After the rims wore in a bit, I switched back to the salmon pads and they didn't squeal.
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#3
Out fishing with Annie on his lap, a cigar in one hand and a ginger ale in the other, watching the sunset.
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Well, you could use the solution I used on my Nishiki......
I "Fixed" it. (Went Fixed Gear and never touch the remaining front brake, ever....it's there for show only. )
I "Fixed" it. (Went Fixed Gear and never touch the remaining front brake, ever....it's there for show only. )
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. “He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you.”- Fredrick Nietzsche
"We can judge the heart of a man by his treatment of animals." - Immanuel Kant
#4
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You shouldn't need a shim for the pad holder adjustment. Loosen the retaining screw and the pads are mounted via a spherical washer to allow for 360-degree adjustment of the pad angle, assuring you get appropriate toe-in along with correct angle of contact to the braking surface of the rim.
If it's an issue with the pivots being loose and allowing the entire armature to shudder, then there's not much you can do about that.
If it's an issue with the pivots being loose and allowing the entire armature to shudder, then there's not much you can do about that.
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#5
Ceci n'est pas un vélo.
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As a West Virginian, I was pretty terrified to open this thread.
#6
Downtown Spanky Brown
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Snazzy Nishiki btw
Thanks for the suggestions, I'm going to try and toe the pads in before my ride tonight. If it works awesome, if not...well...she's almost ready for her 300 mile tune up and it can be the shop's problem. If it ends up being shuddering arms then I am going to toss the whole V-brakes for a nice set of canti's. God I hate that travel agent with a passion matched only by my hated of Necco Waffers.
#7
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Personally, I love my canti brakes and wouldn't switch for anything.
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#8
Downtown Spanky Brown
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Adjusting the toe did the trick, no more sqealing
It's been my observation that properly adjusted canti's will stop you just as well as anything else. V brakes paired up with STI brifters however is teh suck.
It's been my observation that properly adjusted canti's will stop you just as well as anything else. V brakes paired up with STI brifters however is teh suck.
#9
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I would love to say that is always the case, but the Avid Shorty 4's that came on my Jake are less then desirable for stopping power. I knew that going in because of some of the reviews here on BF. I am upgrading to Tektro CR720 canti's with Kool-Stop black MTB pads. I hope that does the trick.
#11
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Missbumble, if it makes you feel any better, in my experience, the pig is usually dead before it gets put on the spit.
That and barbecue tastes waaay too good to ever give up.
That and barbecue tastes waaay too good to ever give up.
#12
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Did you put a travel agent on that setup? V-brakes require different pull than traditional cantis or road brakes, that's why you need special V-brake drop bar levers or you need to use a travel agent pulley to get the appropriate pull.
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"I feel like my world was classier before I found cyclocross."
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#14
Downtown Spanky Brown
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#15
Downtown Spanky Brown
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Yeah, I have a set of travel agents. I think I may have made a mistake by having the cross levers removed. They annoyed me and took up space that was much better utilized by a computer and headlight.