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New, and looking for some advice...

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Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) Looking to lose that spare tire? Ideal weight 200+? Frustrated being a large cyclist in a sport geared for the ultra-light? Learn about the bikes and parts that can take the abuse of a heavier cyclist, how to keep your body going while losing the weight, and get support from others who've been successful.

New, and looking for some advice...

Old 07-27-09, 02:50 AM
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New, and looking for some advice...

Hello, everyone my name is Benjamin (Ben) and I'm 29yo from Michigan. I found these forums while looking for some help with a manual for my current bicycle (not sure I like it), the Schwinn "Link" 26" Comfort/Mountain hybrid.

I'm 5' 11" and weigh 264 lbs. (the BMI scale cringes) my wife asked me to get us all bikes so we could ride as a family around the city and some local trails (love Michigans lakes), but mainly on flat roads and flat trails mostly. I'd like to take it a step further and use this to lose some weight and also gain some muscle I lost of the years. My wife just wants my butt back =).

I'm not sure I've made the best decision on the bike I purchased and would also like some advice on a better bike or if this bike is fine and just need some tuning.

So, after reading some intro's and getting a feel for the Clydes/Athena section.

Age: 29
Height: 5' 11"
Weight: 264 lbs.
Injuries: Back ache, knee aches (from being heavy)
Goals: Lose weight, learn more about cycling and understanding the mechanics of the bike/sport/hobby.
Budget: Under $250

Bike: Schwinn "Link" 26" Comfort/mountain hybrid Schwinn Link

Last edited by eqtitan; 07-27-09 at 02:55 AM.
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Old 07-27-09, 04:11 AM
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Originally Posted by eqtitan
Hello, everyone my name is Benjamin (Ben) and I'm 29yo from Michigan. I found these forums while looking for some help with a manual for my current bicycle (not sure I like it), the Schwinn "Link" 26" Comfort/Mountain hybrid.

I'm 5' 11" and weigh 264 lbs. (the BMI scale cringes) my wife asked me to get us all bikes so we could ride as a family around the city and some local trails (love Michigans lakes), but mainly on flat roads and flat trails mostly. I'd like to take it a step further and use this to lose some weight and also gain some muscle I lost of the years. My wife just wants my butt back =).

I'm not sure I've made the best decision on the bike I purchased and would also like some advice on a better bike or if this bike is fine and just need some tuning.

So, after reading some intro's and getting a feel for the Clydes/Athena section.

Age: 29
Height: 5' 11"
Weight: 264 lbs.
Injuries: Back ache, knee aches (from being heavy)
Goals: Lose weight, learn more about cycling and understanding the mechanics of the bike/sport/hobby.
Budget: Under $250

Bike: Schwinn "Link" 26" Comfort/mountain hybrid Schwinn Link
Hi Ben,

It looks OK for what you want to do. That said, there's a lot to be said for getting a bike from a shop, even if it costs more. It's my understanding that big-box store bikes aren't very adaptable because they use low-end or unique componentry. A good bike shop will work to make the bike they build fit you, rather than get a bike from the stockroom that you might fit.

Your 250 dollar budget is a little tight for a new bike. You should haunt Craigslist, garage and yard sales, freecycle, etc, to find an older bike in good condition. That will give you the biggest bang for the dollar, and perhaps allow you to spend some money on things such as a helmet.

To upgrade the old one, I'd suggest swapping out the suspension seatpost for a suspensionless one to give you more power in your pedal stroke. When you replace the tires, switch the knobbie treads out for a smooth road tire. Keep the bike serviced. And have fun!
 
Old 07-27-09, 05:50 AM
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The main reasoning behind the seat (suspension) of this bike is my weight when hitting a bump so the seat doesn't get slammed into my rear end.

The issues I have with the bike are the actual seat not the suspension, I need a soft padded seat and maybe a little wider to cover more area and the gears do not change properly or do not fully shift from one gear to another. I paid almost $205 out the door for this bike and I still have 86 days to return it so I might stop by one of three local shops. One is very established and has been here almost as long as the town its self and the other two are newer.

Maybe I'll have them tune this bike and look forward to another purchase before Christmas
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Old 07-27-09, 05:54 AM
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You didn't mention whether or not you have bike tinkering skills. Would you be intimidated by the thought of switching handlebars, for instance? There would be incidental mods needed; new cables might be a good example. If you've never done this type of thing before, don't let it worry you. It's not all that hard. Just go ahead and do it. Once you are able to maintain your bike mechanically, you're halfway there. (A brief tool list: 8, 10, 13, 14 & 15 mm wrenches plus 4,5 & 6 mm Allen wrenches and a Phillips head screwdriver. You'll need other tools from time to time. But these will get you a long way.)

Then you need to ride, ride, ride. If at all possible, commute to work. It's best, in fact, if it's a bit difficult, ie, distance, hills, etc. Rig up some kind of cargo carrier so that you can carry a change of clothes. If commuting is just not do-able, then you need to find some way to ride everyday. It's the best way, by far, to lose weight and maintain strength and health. You'll feel the results pretty quickly. From there, it's smooth sailing.

You're 5' 11", did you say? You probably should get a longer seat post. Get your legs stretched out a bit more while riding.
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Old 07-27-09, 05:58 AM
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the best advice I can give you is to ride all of the bikes in your price range and try to find one that fits you well. Each manufacturer is going to us a slightly different frame geometry and slightly different list of components and the only good way of telling each apart is to climb on and test ride.

On a side note, a good general rule of thumb is the larger and wider the saddle, the less comfortable it will be. Bicycle saddles are designed so that the majority of your weight is supported by the sit bones in your rear end rather than the soft tissue surrounding those bones. This is another area where you will just have to test out different sizes and materials to find the one that fits you best.
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Old 07-27-09, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by bluegoatwoods
You didn't mention whether or not you have bike tinkering skills. Would you be intimidated by the thought of switching handlebars, for instance? There would be incidental mods needed; new cables might be a good example. If you've never done this type of thing before, don't let it worry you. It's not all that hard. Just go ahead and do it. Once you are able to maintain your bike mechanically, you're halfway there. (A brief tool list: 8, 10, 13, 14 & 15 mm wrenches plus 4,5 & 6 mm Allen wrenches and a Phillips head screwdriver. You'll need other tools from time to time. But these will get you a long way.)

Then you need to ride, ride, ride. If at all possible, commute to work. It's best, in fact, if it's a bit difficult, ie, distance, hills, etc. Rig up some kind of cargo carrier so that you can carry a change of clothes. If commuting is just not do-able, then you need to find some way to ride everyday. It's the best way, by far, to lose weight and maintain strength and health. You'll feel the results pretty quickly. From there, it's smooth sailing.

You're 5' 11", did you say? You probably should get a longer seat post. Get your legs stretched out a bit more while riding.
I have purchased the tools previously stated (all in one swiss tool) the last piece of Bike maitenance I did was on my old Mongoose freestyle way back in the late 80's early 90's. But like with everything in life approach it openly as everyone makes mistakes we learn as we fall not as we stride.

As for riding to work I'm one of the many people in Michigan looking for work, so at the moment unemployed Computer nerd looking for work. I run a side business for residential and small business computer systems and networking.

Yeah, 5' 11" I read you should have your seat placed so that the ball of your foot (metatarsals) can reach the ground comfortably and that is how me seat is. I'm built with a large torso and shorter legs.
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Old 07-28-09, 02:18 PM
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Help for newbies

Here's a good site to check out if you're pretty new to cycling. Lots of good stuff beyond just getting a bike.

https://www.biketoledo.net
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Old 07-28-09, 05:31 PM
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Well Hi There - :WELCOME:

That's all I got. I just love that the wife is asking you to do this...So many people post that the wife resents the biking, so it is great that the family will be into it. Fornow,just ride...figure out if it's the right bike later.

Everyone tells me i will want to upgrade my bike. So far I am happy with my bike - and have not upgraded. (Ok admittedly I have a pretty cool starter road bike) So hang in there...ride - and pretty soon your butt will feel better (I Assume it will hurt as a biek seat is not all that comfy at first) You will know if you need a different bike.

Have fun -come on over ot our Clydesdales /Athenas Biggest Loser thread and post your goals for the week. Welcome aboard!!!
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Old 07-28-09, 05:59 PM
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For whatever it's worth I'm a former Michigander. Grew up not so far at all from you. Just a bit south of Jackson.

Left in the early 80s because of a bad economy. Sounds like you're in a similar situation. I've missed MI terribly. But not being able to make a living was a powerful argument.

Sorry for being off-topic. But I'd consider getting out of the Detroit area. That's just not a good place to be right now.
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Old 07-28-09, 07:06 PM
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i have to second the craigs list idea. If you just got the bike and can return it, i would. For 250 you should be able to get a kona, a hardrock or a giant thats only a couple years old. That would also allow more people on here to give you suggestions on upgrades, since most people here have LBS type bikes.

I also second the statement that a softer seat is not necessarily more comfortable. You may need to try a few.
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Old 07-29-09, 05:29 PM
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Ben,

If you're interested, I can mail you a copy of the Downriver Linked Greenways Initiative brochure. It describes planned and existing bike trail efforts throughout the downriver area, including Southgate. If you're not comfortable PM'ing your mailing address, you can pick up the brochure at Riverside Kayaks in Wyandotte.

And if you want a quick cycling goal, there's the Tour de Troit bike ride on September 19th. It's 30 miles but on flat terrain, at an easy pace, and with a rest break in the middle. If you start riding on a consistent basis now, you should be ready for it -- and it's a lot of fun. There'll be Slows BBQ, mexican food, and local beer on tap at the finish line. Last year we had 1,100 riders.
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Old 07-30-09, 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by eqtitan
Yeah, 5' 11" I read you should have your seat placed so that the ball of your foot (metatarsals) can reach the ground comfortably and that is how me seat is. I'm built with a large torso and shorter legs.
Nope. That's too low. Quick test -- place the bike on a trainer or next to a wall and sit on the seat (use the wall to balance). Place place your HEELS on the pedals and pedal backwards. Your legs should be completely extended at the bottom of the revolution and without rocking your hips. Make small adjustments from there.

https://www.jimlangley.net/crank/bikefit.html

Working from the ground wont do because the height of the bottom bracket (crank axle) varies from bike to bike. Mtn bikes often have fairly high BB's leading to very low seat positions if referenced to the ground.

Low seat position is hard on knees and more work too.

Doug
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Old 07-30-09, 08:59 AM
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Hey Ben: I've lost 88 Lbs. since the first of the year and biking played a large part in it, but you have to diet also. You can't just ride the pounds off you'd wear out to many bikes.
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Old 07-30-09, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by dcullen
Nope. That's too low. Quick test -- place the bike on a trainer or next to a wall and sit on the seat (use the wall to balance). Place place your HEELS on the pedals and pedal backwards. Your legs should be completely extended at the bottom of the revolution and without rocking your hips. Make small adjustments from there...

...Low seat position is hard on knees and more work too.
+1. I meant to say pretty much the same thing when I first read this thread a couple days ago.

Anyway, to the OP, just get out and ride when you can. Too bad commuting's not an option. Some weeks, it's the only riding I get to do. At least you have built-in riding partners in the shape of your family. I hint every once in a while that my wife should ride. Maybe one of these days I'll convince her to let me buy her a bike off CL so we can ride around the neighborhood together...

Anyway, welcome!
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Old 07-30-09, 01:03 PM
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The main reasoning behind the seat (suspension) of this bike is my weight when hitting a bump so the seat doesn't get slammed into my rear end.

The issues I have with the bike are the actual seat not the suspension, I need a soft padded seat and maybe a little wider to cover more area and the gears do not change properly or do not fully shift from one gear to another.
Why do you think you need a soft padded seat? I agree that the seat on that bike is not great. However, buying a huge padded monster will cause a lot of rubbing & numbness. Trust us, many people have been down this road and eventually went with a good saddle w. minimal padding. You are not meant to have the seat fully support your body weight, your legs (because you are pedaling) will support a good portion of it. Most good seats have very little padding (some have springs underneath). With a recumbent bike, your body weight is fully on the seat.

Frankly, I would suggest returning the bike and buying a better bike (used) then have a good LBS tune it up for you. The cheap Walmart bikes will 'work' but shifters, wheels, and other critical components will keep having problems. If you understand bike maintenance then you can stick with the Walmart and keep fixing it as problems occur.
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