sixate

Here's a shot of me on the rollers this morning. My baggy clothes hide me a bit, but I don't wear only lycra when I ride. I prefer baggy clothes like when I'm on my MTB.

I'm perfectly comfortable on this bike. I rode a solo century this year and averaged a hair under 20mph, and I never stopped to take a break. When I bought my bike everyone tried forcing me on 63cm and 64cm frames, but I just wasn't comfortable so I went with what felt best to me.

dizzy101

I suggest ordering from a European company. Either Canyon or Red Bull. They both have 66cm size frames, for about $2000-$2500. (The aluminum models, that is.)

The bikes they sell are proper road racing bikes. And they look like racing bikes.

Many of the custom bike makers cater towards the recreational rider (not all, but many). This includes Zinn--I can't imagine someone racing on a bike with a gargantuan headtube and 25cm cranks.

dizzy101

Here's a pic of a 66c Canyon.

[IMG] [/IMG]

Go dog Go

sixate, Thanks for the pix. I was just curious.

Go dog Go

I think it's safe to say only ridiculous percentage of people are 6' 6" or over.........about 1% of North American males. How many of those people RACE bicycles. I think he knows his market.

Sassonian

OK - I'll bite

What does the size of the headtube or crank lenth have to do with weather a bike can race or not? Isn't performance the key attribute?

My bike is primarily a race bike - I belong to a club and race on it - every week.

Just because it doesn't look like other racing bikes means it's not a proper racing bike? It's completely built around the crank length and what hip angles will work for someone my size with those sized cranks. It's all about getting the most power on the road and he set's up the geometry to enable you to do that. And that means using the long levers that is one of the few advantages that tall riders have - and hence the long cranks.

It's hugely stiff and I can get up out of the saddle and sprint on it without any qualms about frame flex that I had with my old frame (or snapping a frame tube - which I've done twice on my old steel bikes). The only problem I've had is running out of gears at the sharp end of races, in the 53/12 because the long cranks enable me to get on top of this gear easier. (I'm getting an 11 which should solve this problem)

The long cranks mean I can accellerate way better and that means I can stay with surges that used to drop me.

And I can climb incredibly better mainly because of the long cranks.

All attributes that you'd want in a proper racing bike I'd suggest??



Adrian.
PS It leaves my old bike which had a smaller headtube and was a "proper" dimensioned racing bike for dead. It honestly feels like I'm riding a kids bike when I ride that bike with it's 175mm cranks.

dizzy101

Well, all I'm saying is that the bigger frames from the brands I mentioned have standard geometry. I've seen a few Zinn frames with non-standard geometry. Now, it might be true that this geometry is superior for certain uses. I don't know--I guess time will tell.

One example would be the saddle to handlebar drop. Roadies like the handlebars to be a few inches below the saddle, and with such a long headtube that is more difficult to accomplish. (Although you could perhaps use a stem with a downward angle.)

These long cranks are also somewhat controversial. It's true that crank arms should be proportional, but 210 is really quite long. There are a bunch of threads on crank arm length in other the subforums, and if you're taller perhaps 185 or even 190 are appropriate. But anything over 20cm is--again--non-standard.

Go dog Go

The world is flat.

Sassonian

Time doesn't need to tell for me.

The handlebar drop on my bike IS a few inches - 3.2inches to be exact. Granted this isn't as much as on my old bike with it's proper geometry - but I only ever spent a very limited time in the drops on that bike as it simply wasn't comfortable. I can and do now spend time in the drops - including sprinting in the drops. But its also a custom build - so you can order whatever handlebar drop you think is appropriate - as with any custom build. I went with Zinn's recommendation as he's been doing this stuff for 25 years and knows what works for big guys - and what hip angles suit the long cranks best.

So they should be proportional but not really?

I've seen the threads about long cranks - and it seems to me that those that decry them the most are those that haven't had any experience with them.

Doesn't a non-standard solution for a non-standard sized person make sense? It's certainly worked for me - in a major way.

dizzy101

Those are all good points. I really wish longer cranks would be cheaper and more easily available--that would allow for more experimentation. It's practically impossible to find a crank that's longer that 180 for, say, less than $400-500. One would hate to think many people ride with a sub-optimal crank length due to non-availability.

There are a few professional cyclists in the 6'7"-6'8" range (Ryan Trebon, some Ukrainian track cyclist whose name I forget), and they've used cranks in the 177.5mm-190mm range. Now, these folks make a living off of riding bikes, so you would think they do their research.

I would definitely like to try out cranks with > 20cm arms, see how it feels, but it's too bad prices are so prohibitive.

Go dog Go

Check your crank/chainstay clearance Clarence first if you do. The longest I could run on my Spectrum is 190....

dizzy101

Yeah, you're right. If your cranks are too long, either your heel will start hitting the chainstay, or the actual crank arm will be touching the chainstay. The former can be fixed by getting pedal axel extenders, but the latter is not so easily circumvented.

yankintx

I'm 6.6" but also have a 37 inch inseam ang I've been riding a Fuji Roubaix RC since July. The bike is a perfect fit with a 64cm frame. I'd try one otu if you haven't done so yet.

Barrettscv 

Consider Soma: https://www.somafab.com/extrasmoothie.html

The Smoothie ES is available in a 66cm size.

I have a size 60cm Double Cross, It's a great bike;

Go dog Go

Fuji 64 and Soma 66 both have with 61 cm TT. No love for me as I roll with a 64 and may go a bit longer on my next frame.

StanSeven

I'm like not so good with math. First of all only teen age girls say like. Second 12" = 1 foot.

tahoward

I just picked up a 68cm SR steel frame from the early 80s on Craigslist for $20. I'm building it up for my nephew who is 6-10. I'm 6-2 and can barely throw my leg over this beast. I have sourced some long cranks and am on the lookout for other bits. Soma Fabrications also has an extra long, 11-inch stem riser which will get those handlebars way up there. Paired with a long stem and perhaps a setback seat post, I think this bike should work for him to cruise around Denver. He took my old mountain bike to college and rode it quite a bit, even though it was much to small for him. I plan on building up some decent rims in case he wishes to go the custom route and swap out the parts.

jkmartin

If anyone's looking, I have one of the aforementioned 28" Panasonics on Craiglist right now.

https://fayar.craigslist.org/bik/1549928223.html

The $250 I'm asking just represents what I spent on it to make it rideable. Not even charging you for the 2 days it took to get the seatpost out or the 3 days it took to remove the stem. Because I love you all so much I'll even throw in shipping for free.

bigfred 

Eric,

I'm 6'5", don't have my cycling inseam handy, but ride a 63 cm cannondale frame. Just barely. Long seatpost and 140 stem flipped positive. I would probably fit more comfortably on one of their rare 66cm's. The 66's are built in short runs and not a stock item.

In the past I've had a 6'7" housemate who also managed to ride stock frames. Although he eventually ended up owning all custom built frames. His tricks were to use extra set back blocks on mountain bike seatposts and simply had custom stems made.

Custom would be ideal, but, you can probably still find a reasonable fit on the largest of stock frames. Look for those that build large frames but more importantly, have longer top tubes, like the aforementioned Cannondale, trek, etc. 180 cranks would also be recommended, but, these only come in the higher end component level, Dura Ace or Record. Even longer cranks are available, but, as already stated are expensive and start to run into frame clearance issues unless custom built for.

jawnn

get a tadpole trike and extra low gears... make sure that it's not one of those flexable wimpy trikes. read my blog, and eat salad!!

A Light foot trike or bike is the best! https://www.lightfootcycles.com/ but their seats are not good, they need a rans seat.