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WTF are you guys using for tires and WTF am I doing wrong?! (LONG)

Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) Looking to lose that spare tire? Ideal weight 200+? Frustrated being a large cyclist in a sport geared for the ultra-light? Learn about the bikes and parts that can take the abuse of a heavier cyclist, how to keep your body going while losing the weight, and get support from others who've been successful.

WTF are you guys using for tires and WTF am I doing wrong?! (LONG)

Old 03-31-10, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr. Beanz
Well if it makes you feel better, I'm lucky to get 2000 out of a tire. I got 800 out of a Specialized S-Works Mondo ($36)!(
My "new" bike came with a pair of Mondo tires a couple of years ago. The polymer center bead was showing after 1200 miles on the back tire, and the center separated from the side-wall on the front tire after about 1800 miles. I really liked how they cornered in wet weather, and handled gravel and uneven pavement, but they were way too expensive to replace that often. Especially at that price!
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Old 03-31-10, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr. Beanz
I get less out of tire than I did a few years a back under same exact conditions and roads.
That could also mean that you are getting stronger and faster. The more I ride, I get the feeling that exact same tires last shorter and shorter for me every time I replace them, and I'm only getting lighter. Only difference is that I'm getting much faster and probably stronger. That might be a factor we didn't count on before
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Old 03-31-10, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by chipcom
Some things to keep in mind:

1. You are a clyde...beware of lightweight wheels and low spoke counts. best do your homework and not only choose appropriate spare wheels, but also have them hand built.

2. If you want to just "change wheels" on the rear, you're gonna need the identical cassette installed on your spare wheel (if you want to save the time of swapping cassettes) and will still probably have to adjust the rear derailleur after swapping.

3. When you see the cost of your selected new wheel set, cassette and tires, you may find it more attractive to just run a different tire that is a good compromise for all conditions, as I suggested earlier.

Thanks for the advice, I knew I'd have to get the same casette and as far as wheels, at this point I'd just like to put something similar to the stock giants but put some better rubber on them. I've already got it in my head that the next bike will be a full ultegra from BD, I can get one for about $1000 and i've got no issue with paying my lbs to do the necessary work plus by the time I've saved up for that bike, I'll have learned more about wrenching. My job allows me plenty of free time so I have the time to devote to any repairing and adjustments that may be needed. In the short term, I'm sure I can pick up some new to me wheels similar to what I have on their now for $100-$200.
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Old 04-05-10, 04:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Pinyon
Those digital air gauges are a lot more accurate than the old kind..

I've abandoned air gauges independent of the pump. On the road, you ALWAYS have to pump up your tires before you go out as high pressures leak quickly. Off road, I go by feel and the tire drop ... and what conditions are like. When I do pump up the MTBs I overshoot my mark than adjust the tire appropriately for the course.
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