Austinnh

Really glad it helped!

Grant talks about a fistful of seatpost showing. This is based on a bike with a horizontal (or nearly) top tube. Your bike has a top tube that's angled up ("compact" geometry), so I would expect more than a fistful on your bike.

Grant tends to like the handlebars to be at the same height as the seat, or higher. This is often good for comfort, but bad for aerodynamics and power delivery, so it's a compromise. (Some say they actually are more comfortable with the handlebars lower). If you have short arms, you may want the handlebars even closer/higher.

john423

That's the problem, the handlebars are well below the seat right now. I'm getting the stem flipped, so that may help. But the gap between them is a gulf.

sstorkel

The angle on Specialized 's stems can be adjusted through the use of eccentric shims placed between the stem and the steerer tube. Unlike most adjustable stems, the Specialized stem is just as rigid as a normal stem and there's virtually no weight penalty. The trade-off is that there are a limited number of positions the stem can produce. With the Comp-Set stem I use, the range is +8- to +16 degrees in 2-degree increments (and the corresponding -8 to -16 degrees if you flip the stem over).

This is really for fine-tuning more than anything else. Sounds like the OP may need a longer stem, or perhaps one that is significantly steeper.

sstorkel

A better resource for bike fitting is the Fit Calculator over at Competitive Cyclist. Be sure to read and understand their three different styles of fit before you start playing around with your bike, however!

callmeclemens

Ride with friends and make it a good time, you forget the rest!

Pinyon

Like many roadie clyde-types, I prefer the handlebars to be about even with the seat (about an inch shorter for me), with a slightly longer stem than most riders. This allows you to get lower for more power and aerodynamics, but stretches you out rather than down.

When I have my handlebars closer and farther down, I can't breathe as freely (legs hitting gut), and my thick legs smack my forearms on the up-stroke, even when my hands are on the hoods or in the drops.

When my inner knee touches the top-tube on the up-stroke, my mid-thigh comes out wider than the handlebars. The only way to get lower comfortably, is to go up and out a little bit.

himespau 

Try a bunch of saddles. It may take several tries to find the one you like. I (and a few others) have gotten the idea to buy several used high end saddles from e-bay, try them and sell back the ones that didn't work. I, for instance, found 6 for about $25-30 shipped each that have pretty stable prices so I should be able to sell them for about the same and should get a pretty good trial for the cost of shipping.

Wogster

Generally, this is real general, because there are exceptions. A properly fitted frame with a horizontal (parallel to ground) top tube, will have a "fist full of seat post", that means essentially you can just wrap your hand around the seatpost above the seal tube, this is about 7-10cm (3-4 inches). If the top tube is slopping, then if you put a yardstick where the top tube and head tube meet, and hold it parallel to the ground, the seat will be 7-10cm above that point. If it's more the 10cm, then your frame is too small, if it's say less then 7cm then your frame is too large. One of the problems with modern bicycles, is that although the saddle position can be changed by 15cm or more, bar position is pretty much fixed. Shops typically will cut threadless steerers as short as possible, with just enough to put the stem on top, which puts the bars a good distance below the saddle, what I call racing position. Fine for poseurs and racers, but few Clydes, who haven't ridden a drop bar bike in a while, like that position. I want my bars higher, but then I think for my 179cm frame this 56cm frame is a little on the small side, and there is a good 15cm cm of seat post showing.

As for racks, um, yeah, not all trunk racks will fit all vehicles, although manufacturers like Thule do have fitting charts on their website that show what models fit what vehicles.

C_Heath

yes lol his taint is about to EXPLODE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Im dyin!!!! lol

himespau 

Everyone duck and cover because no one wants to get hit by the shrapnel from exploding taint.

BikeMech

1. They're awkward at first but i personally will not ride without them now.
2. Try various seats. From what i read,wider/softer seats for slow/short ride and skinny/hard seats for long/fast rides. Also you have to get adjusted. I used to be uncomfortable at first.
3. Traffic isn't as bad as people think. You just have to ride and eventually you get comfortable. I used to be really nervous but now i can be passed by a car at 60mph and not even blink.
4. Once you have a comfortable seat that will take care of it.
5. Raise your bars. Not everyone likes to ride leaned over. I've seen so many people here with their bars sky high.

Neil_B

You're dying? Imagine how someone with an exploding taint feels!

john423

My taint's calmed since my bike's been in the shop. Maybe if it does explode, they can rebuild it, make it bigger, faster, stronger - The Six Million Dollar Taint.

Pamestique 

OK OK enough with the tender parts... we get it!!!!

himespau 

Well let us know if they can help you out with the fit and that helps at all.

john423

All right, an update. I thought about starting another thread, but I'll just bump this one:

Got the bike back from the shop a few days ago, but there's been a lot of rain around lately. So I get a chance to take it out this weekend. They flipped the stem, and I think that's taken care of the back problems.

On Friday, I had an OK ride, had some pedal issues (again), sending me to the point of furiousness. I still don't feel "safe" on the bike for some reason. I go so fast, especially on downhills (computer said I hit 40 mph in one downhill - hello!) and I wind up pulling over toward the center of the road. I'm scared a car's gonna wipe me out.

I also had the idea the seat needed to come toward the handlebars a smudge - I noticed that where I was riding was up on the saddle. I think I have short arms compared to the rest of me. So I moved the saddle forward, and that helped with that problem. The bike feels better.

Today, I went out to the local university, got in one of their parking lots, and decided to try to get more comfortable with these clips. I clipped out and back in 102 times in about 30 minutes. Then I rode around the lot for a bit and just played with the different gear combinations. I hit 20 mph at one point pedaling, which was like "woah!"

But the problem is that I really still don't like road biking much. There's nothing about it that makes me think "dang, I hope the weather's good so I can go out road biking." I just don't care for it. I can't put my finger on it, it's probably a combination of things, the pedals, the saddle, the unsafe feeling, my height off the ground, the lack of upright position. When you take a $1,000 bike and say "well, it's OK, but it's nowhere near as much fun as my $300 commuter," then that might be a problem.

I feel like I've let people down or something, but I just don't like it.

So I'm definitely considering throwing in the towel. Now would be a good time, with Christmas coming up, to try to sell that sucker on Craigslist. I'd then like to take the money and either now or when the weather warms up shop for a better commuter/long-distance bike. Then I'd probably start yet another "what kind of bike should I buy" threads. I want a steel-framed bike with an upright position (not near-upright, freakin' tall-in-the-saddle upright), comfort seat and a triple chainring for climbing.

I could say "heck with it" and get regular pedals. I coud say "heck with it" and get a padded saddle. But I'm still not sure if that's gonna bring the caring out in me. And meanwhile, I'm out the cost of pedals and a saddle for a bike I just can't get excited about in the first place.

eddubal

Well, now you can't say that you didn't try. That's good. It's sounding like you simply aren't enjoying the style of riding that you are currently doing.

Maybe you aren't a roadie. At least you are closer to realizing that it's you, not your equipment. Once you do realize the style of riding that you are really interested in, you can get the proper equipment for that style of riding. Have you tried a group ride? Try to find a club that you can try a ride with. Find one that seems to work with your style. Perhaps not a racing oriented club, but a touring oriented one. Touring groups tend to go slower, and enjoy the scenery more. Perhaps this interests you more.

There is a reason why so many different style bikes are made. Not everyone wants to be the next Lance Armstrong. I have a vintage hardtail/hard fork MTB that I installed road tires on once I realized that I wouldn't be doing much offroad riding. Even though I know that I'm not going to do racing, touring is a possibility. I do like that I can explore some offroad trails in the area if I want, but don't have to worry about the air or rolling resistance of lugged tires. I do keep a set of offroad sneakers just in case I want to go off road, but by and large, I use my road soles. I've never really liked the ultra skinny tires of road bikes, so this seems to work out well for me and my style of riding.

I still have the original pedals that came with the bike. They have clips, but I'm considering going with a clipless pedal that also has a platform. With the platforms I'm not locked into the one set of shoes that has the proper cleat. My bike has ended up being a multiuse bike, and I've been very happy with it over the years. I know its limitations, but they don't bother me at all. If they do, I'll start to look for a new bike.

You might want to start looking for a touring style bike with wider tires. Ask your LBS about the choices around for the size rim that is on a bike that you are interested in. I believe most rims will accept a tire that is around 1-1/4" wide. I have the skinniest tires that will go on my rim, 1.5 inverted tread, but I have gotten it up to 35mph. Obviously, you might not want to go that fast, but something like that might make you feel more comfortable at speed.

If you are really finding out that you don't like the style of riding, it's best to go ahead and get rid of your bike and buy a new style. Only you will know if this is so, but don't be afraid to take the plunge. Other styles of riding can be equally satisfying, but only if it fits you.

I'll let others be the judge about if it's a good time to get rid of it now or in the spring. I do know that after Christmas is a good time to buy a new one. Shops will be trying to get rid of inventory, so prices will be down. Once the temperature starts to rise, bike prices will rise too.

You can use your current shoes with regular pedals and still get the advantages of a stiffer sole. Save the pedals in case you do want to go back to them. If you still don't want to use them in a year, sell them too.

Good luck with your decision.

john423

I think it goes deeper than the pedals. It's how everything - the pedals, the sheer height of the bike, the responsiveness that makes any beginning rider wobble around and the fact that I can't seem to get a rear-view mirror that I'm happy with is making me insane.

I just don't feel like I'm in control at all, ever, and that's scary to me, being out in traffic. I can't get over this fear that I'm gonna get hit at any second. I don't know whether it's because I'm so occupied with everything I don't notice traffic coming behind me or what, but it seems like people pass me out of the blue.

Here's another thing I did Saturday: I went out on some of the same streets I commuter bike on this afternoon. I had about an hour to kill, so I thought "hey, let's try this." I did OK for a while, then ran into some traffic trouble and had trouble getting clipped in/started again and it was "well, I wanna go home" about 15 minutes in.

What I might do Sunday is take my commuter bike out to some of the roads I've been riding my road bike on to see if I'm more comfortable on my commuter bike.

A friend of mine is encouraging me to stick with it, says there's a learning curve that I've gotta get over and then I'll start enjoying it. But how do you get over the learning curve when the bike's a chore for you to ride? It's not "oh boy," it's "I guess I'd better."

Captain Blight

How wide are your tires? Could you fit something in a 25 or 28mm size? I know that when I switch to my road bike after a spell on one of my city bikes or commuter, the narrowness of the tires is startling. IF you go to a 25mm (say) you will gain a good bit of stability; and the extra volume in the tire gives a bit of cushion. You'll lose a couple mph off the top end, but you'll be a lot more comfortable getting there. Personally I like the Panaracer T-Serv Pro with the anti-flat strip, your mileage may vary.

redvespablur

You have had a lot of feed back but when you mentioned wobble it reminded me of my recent experience with my old Allez. I had done a frame swap of components from much smaller bike bought as donor and the stem was really short like 80 MM and the bike was no fun because any twitch set off a wobble that was quite alarming specially on descents or when pushing hard and fast. Is your stem stubby? When I swapped out to 135 mm it was like a diferent bike.

Hey and if you don't love it - life is too short too be spending recreation time on something that is less than doing it for you. Ride the commuter if you like it better.

qmsdc15

Road biking is pretty much just an excuse for men to shave their legs and strut their stuff in shiny form fitting shorts.

Saltybeagle

work on one issue at a time, until you resolve the one you pick, don't make too many changes or it will be a mess.

Neil_B

Not that there's anything wrong with that, of course.

john423

At the urging of my friend, I took the road bike back out today for another ride - went for almost 2 hours. The back pain returned (joy!) and was pretty bad by the end of the ride. One of the things I decided was that the handlebars need to come up a little more somehow. I know I can't get into an upright position on the bike, but there's gotta be a happy medium. Plus I'm locking my elbows too much when riding with my hands near the brakes/shifters, and I know you're not supposed to do that. It's because I'm not close enough.

One thing I wanna do before I ride again is move the seat toward the handlebars even further - it doesn't have to go up much more, but moving the seat gets me closer to being in a comfortable position. And I have to go ask the repair guy at the shop where I bought it if the handlebars can come up a little bit more. I'll have to ask him about the stem, too, if the handlebars are up as high as they can go. The specs say the stem length is 120 mm.
It just seems like a huge bike, and I can barely get my right foot on the ground (gotta put my toes down).

Captain Blight

Well, remember that there's nothing about a bike that's complicated (except for brifters); and that if all you're doing is enduring, you're not enjoying. Maybe some advice from my car-racing days might help? Start with cheap and simple, work from there into complicated and expensive. And while the normal procedure is to make one tiny change at a time and see how it feels, I would like to suggest you ram the saddle as far forward as it can go and to go get a stem just a little shorter but with a lot more angle. Raising the bars will subjectively move them closer to you, and if you're locking your elbows, you're out there way too far. My rule of thumb for handlebar pos. is that the center section of the bar should completely hide the front hub.