Pedals........**********?
#26
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Fargo, ND
Posts: 188
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
The threat of a potential lawsuit from their legal goon squad if I ever try to resell the pedals has put them on my list of component manufacturer's that I will never use or recommend to anyone.
#27
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 4,700
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times
in
4 Posts
Congrats: you saved $1.55 versus buying American!
2. I don't care where Shimano makes pedals. The question is: given that you've decided they're the best and want to buy them, should you spend your money at home? Or send your money abroad so you can save a buck fifty? The later seems pretty stupid to me, especially given the potential wait times, possible return problems, customs issues, not to mention the credit card fraud problems suffered by both Ribble and PBK. If the price difference were bigger I might consider it, but for $1.50? No, thanks!
Huh?!?!
And for some reason I wasn't under the impression that credit card fraud was limited to PBK and Ribble.
So, the price difference IS bigger than $1.50, and your arguments for buying from a US supplier regardless of price are nonsensical.
#28
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: North of Mayo Clinic Minnesota
Posts: 507
Bikes: Trek 820 Madone 6.2. Trek 2.1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#29
Vorsprung durch Technik
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Fairmont, WV
Posts: 310
Bikes: 2007 Specialized Crossroads, 1985 Raleigh Sportif
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I picked up a set of Crank Bros at Performance on sale for $20 not long ago.
#30
Senior Member
BTW, if you can show me an American-made recessed-cleat clipless pedal that works as well as the Shimano M520 and costs less than 3X as much, I'd be happy to give them a try!
So, the price difference IS bigger than $1.50, and your arguments for buying from a US supplier regardless of price are nonsensical.
Sadly, I don't think you've managed to refute any of the disadvantages associated with buying overseas: increased ship times, difficulty of returning merchandise, difficulty of obtaining support from the merchant, possibility of being hit with customs charges, numerous problems with credit card fraud attributed to U.K. vendors (ProBikeKit, Ribble, Wiggle, Total Cycling, et. al.) at various times over the last 1-2 years, etc.
#31
Senior Member
Speedplays also offer quite a bit of float compared to Shimano road pedals, though this comes at the cost of having to rotate your heel more before they release. The Zeros are especially nice because they have adjustable float and, IIRC, release angle. There's also no spring tension constantly trying to recenter the pedal. Dunno if the PD-5700s have that but some of the older Look pedals did and it could get to be annoying.
#32
Randonneur in Training
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: SW PA
Posts: 208
Bikes: 2010 Jamis Coda Sport "The Coda!"
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
dhoff asks: 'Why? What makes them worth it?'
Those are my reasons. Your preference may differ, but I just wanted to give the OP another option to think about!
#33
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: North of Mayo Clinic Minnesota
Posts: 507
Bikes: Trek 820 Madone 6.2. Trek 2.1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
They are easy to get into, easy to get out, they have a large platform which reduces hot-spot potential (comes from the cleat,not the actual pedal,) double side clip in ability, the zero's have adjustable float (my light actions do not,) the float makes life easier on the knees (for me,) greater cornering clearances (not that it matters for my style of riding, but it's one of the pluses,) and are available in road and off road options (Frogs for off road.)
Those are my reasons. Your preference may differ, but I just wanted to give the OP another option to think about!
Those are my reasons. Your preference may differ, but I just wanted to give the OP another option to think about!
#34
Randonneur in Training
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: SW PA
Posts: 208
Bikes: 2010 Jamis Coda Sport "The Coda!"
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
This is where I am having some troubles with my PD-5700's and R540's. My left foot I have no trouble at all, my right foot I have a lot of trouble rotating my foot to get out. I also have trouble with my right foot heel hitting my chainstay if I get lazy and don't watch it.
I started with the clipless pedals late in the year last year on my MTB and I did have some troubles with my knees and even notice it some on my new road bike on the trainer. The bike shop I stopped at today told me if I buy the Speed Play Zero Stainless?? from them they would set them up with my on my bike for free. Just bring my bike and shoes and they would put me on a trainer and make the necessary adjustments.
I started with the clipless pedals late in the year last year on my MTB and I did have some troubles with my knees and even notice it some on my new road bike on the trainer. The bike shop I stopped at today told me if I buy the Speed Play Zero Stainless?? from them they would set them up with my on my bike for free. Just bring my bike and shoes and they would put me on a trainer and make the necessary adjustments.
There's not a lot of "effort" into getting a release with Speedplay. You rotate your foot out (a fair amount of distance, but nothing I've ever thought painful) and POP! I've never had a problem unclipping; I have unclipped the opposite foot of the direction I leaned resulting in a fall, but that was user error.
#35
Senior Member
This is where I am having some troubles with my PD-5700's and R540's. My left foot I have no trouble at all, my right foot I have a lot of trouble rotating my foot to get out. I also have trouble with my right foot heel hitting my chainstay if I get lazy and don't watch it.
There are a couple of things you can do to make unclipping easier:
1) With SPD pedals, which I use on both road and mountain bikes, you can adjust the release tension of the right pedal or consider using the SH-56 multi-release cleat on your right shoe
2) You can rotate the cleat on the bottom of your shoe, so that you have to twist your heel a bit less before the pedal starts to release
With SPD pedals, you can also rotate your heel inward to get the pedal to release. For me, inward rotation is quite a bit easier than outward rotation, especially for my right foot. Be Careful! If you rotate your foot inward at the wrong point during the pedal stroke, you'll send your heel into the spokes of the rear wheel with potentially disastrous results! I tend to release at the top of the pedal stroke, and I point my toe down as I'm doing it to make contact with the rear wheel less likely.
That said, the Zeros are a nice pedal system. A bit difficult to walk it, it seems, but they have a lot of nice features. Not sure what you gain by buying the Stainless over the Chrome-Moly. Neither pedal has a weight limit, so I think the $50 more expensive Stainless pedal buys you a 10g lighter pedal and some different color choices...
#36
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: North of Mayo Clinic Minnesota
Posts: 507
Bikes: Trek 820 Madone 6.2. Trek 2.1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
So? While ride, I always unclip my left foot. My right foot clips in and home and usually doesn't unclip until I return. As a result, I'm much better at clipping and unclipping with my left foot. This has only been a problem for me on a few super-narrow single-track trails where obstacles prevented me from being able to put my foot down.
There are a couple of things you can do to make unclipping easier:
1) With SPD pedals, which I use on both road and mountain bikes, you can adjust the release tension of the right pedal or consider using the SH-56 multi-release cleat on your right shoe
2) You can rotate the cleat on the bottom of your shoe, so that you have to twist your heel a bit less before the pedal starts to release
With SPD pedals, you can also rotate your heel inward to get the pedal to release. For me, inward rotation is quite a bit easier than outward rotation, especially for my right foot. Be Careful! If you rotate your foot inward at the wrong point during the pedal stroke, you'll send your heel into the spokes of the rear wheel with potentially disastrous results! I tend to release at the top of the pedal stroke, and I point my toe down as I'm doing it to make contact with the rear wheel less likely.
That said, the Zeros are a nice pedal system. A bit difficult to walk it, it seems, but they have a lot of nice features. Not sure what you gain by buying the Stainless over the Chrome-Moly. Neither pedal has a weight limit, so I think the $50 more expensive Stainless pedal buys you a 10g lighter pedal and some different color choices...
There are a couple of things you can do to make unclipping easier:
1) With SPD pedals, which I use on both road and mountain bikes, you can adjust the release tension of the right pedal or consider using the SH-56 multi-release cleat on your right shoe
2) You can rotate the cleat on the bottom of your shoe, so that you have to twist your heel a bit less before the pedal starts to release
With SPD pedals, you can also rotate your heel inward to get the pedal to release. For me, inward rotation is quite a bit easier than outward rotation, especially for my right foot. Be Careful! If you rotate your foot inward at the wrong point during the pedal stroke, you'll send your heel into the spokes of the rear wheel with potentially disastrous results! I tend to release at the top of the pedal stroke, and I point my toe down as I'm doing it to make contact with the rear wheel less likely.
That said, the Zeros are a nice pedal system. A bit difficult to walk it, it seems, but they have a lot of nice features. Not sure what you gain by buying the Stainless over the Chrome-Moly. Neither pedal has a weight limit, so I think the $50 more expensive Stainless pedal buys you a 10g lighter pedal and some different color choices...
I could try the SH-56 clips and see if that helps at all. I notice they are only two bolt and my shoes are three. They are kind of spendy though just to try.
I would be happy with the Chrome Malloy pedals. The LBS I was at did not have the Chrome Malloy in stock and was taking $25.00 of of the Stainless Steel. He can order the Chrome Malloy for me if I wish. I am to bring my bike and shoes up and he will set them up for with my bike on a trainer.
#37
Senior Member
My bad: the SH-56 cleats only work with 2-bolt SPD mountain bike pedals. You've got SPD-SL road pedals, so the SH-56 won't work with your current pedals.
#38
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Fargo, ND
Posts: 188
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Pardon my ignorance on the matter, but why is so much float an advantage?
I don't have any knee issues, but it seems that a properly adjusted cleat (fore/aft and yaw) allows the knee to track properly and that excessive float would only introduce knee instability, possible additional lateral forces on the knee, and create create greater lateral stress on the knee every time you unclip. Is there some reason for the need to adjust the angle of your foot while in the saddle? Every time I hear about someone needing lots of float I get this mental picture that they walk like they're doing the hokie-pokie. Speedplay float lovers- help me understand.
I don't have any knee issues, but it seems that a properly adjusted cleat (fore/aft and yaw) allows the knee to track properly and that excessive float would only introduce knee instability, possible additional lateral forces on the knee, and create create greater lateral stress on the knee every time you unclip. Is there some reason for the need to adjust the angle of your foot while in the saddle? Every time I hear about someone needing lots of float I get this mental picture that they walk like they're doing the hokie-pokie. Speedplay float lovers- help me understand.
#39
Randonneur in Training
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: SW PA
Posts: 208
Bikes: 2010 Jamis Coda Sport "The Coda!"
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Pardon my ignorance on the matter, but why is so much float an advantage?
I don't have any knee issues, but it seems that a properly adjusted cleat (fore/aft and yaw) allows the knee to track properly and that excessive float would only introduce knee instability, possible additional lateral forces on the knee, and create create greater lateral stress on the knee every time you unclip. Is there some reason for the need to adjust the angle of your foot while in the saddle? Every time I hear about someone needing lots of float I get this mental picture that they walk like they're doing the hokie-pokie. Speedplay float lovers- help me understand.
I don't have any knee issues, but it seems that a properly adjusted cleat (fore/aft and yaw) allows the knee to track properly and that excessive float would only introduce knee instability, possible additional lateral forces on the knee, and create create greater lateral stress on the knee every time you unclip. Is there some reason for the need to adjust the angle of your foot while in the saddle? Every time I hear about someone needing lots of float I get this mental picture that they walk like they're doing the hokie-pokie. Speedplay float lovers- help me understand.
As far as the adjustment of the cleat vs the free float of the Speedplay, I can only give you my opinion and what I like about them. I have a partially torn ACL and MCL in my left knee. Keeping the same track through a pedal stroke causes pain; thus, having the ability for my foot to move slightly is a major advantage to my comfort.
I also pronate slightly when I walk (roll my foot inward.) This isn't a major problem, but my knees actually rotate inward (slightly) on every pedal stroke. Again, the Speedplay float helps prevent discomfort.
These are my reasons. I don't hokie-pokie when I walk or run. But my legs do move naturally.
#40
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Fargo, ND
Posts: 188
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
There's no stress on the knee when you unclip. Doesn't take a lot of force.
As far as the adjustment of the cleat vs the free float of the Speedplay, I can only give you my opinion and what I like about them. I have a partially torn ACL and MCL in my left knee. Keeping the same track through a pedal stroke causes pain; thus, having the ability for my foot to move slightly is a major advantage to my comfort.
I also pronate slightly when I walk (roll my foot inward.) This isn't a major problem, but my knees actually rotate inward (slightly) on every pedal stroke. Again, the Speedplay float helps prevent discomfort.
These are my reasons. I don't hokie-pokie when I walk or run. But my legs do move naturally.
As far as the adjustment of the cleat vs the free float of the Speedplay, I can only give you my opinion and what I like about them. I have a partially torn ACL and MCL in my left knee. Keeping the same track through a pedal stroke causes pain; thus, having the ability for my foot to move slightly is a major advantage to my comfort.
I also pronate slightly when I walk (roll my foot inward.) This isn't a major problem, but my knees actually rotate inward (slightly) on every pedal stroke. Again, the Speedplay float helps prevent discomfort.
These are my reasons. I don't hokie-pokie when I walk or run. But my legs do move naturally.
Thanks for the great explanation. I'm far from a kinesiologist, and I didn't have any Speedplay dealers anywhere close to me when I was pedal shopping,(well, I think there finally is one in town, but I don't like dealing with that shop because they're also the regional mega-outdoors sporting goods mart) so they're a bit of a strange animal to me.
#41
Randonneur in Training
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: SW PA
Posts: 208
Bikes: 2010 Jamis Coda Sport "The Coda!"
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Thanks for the great explanation. I'm far from a kinesiologist, and I didn't have any Speedplay dealers anywhere close to me when I was pedal shopping,(well, I think there finally is one in town, but I don't like dealing with that shop because they're also the regional mega-outdoors sporting goods mart) so they're a bit of a strange animal to me.
#42
Downtown Spanky Brown
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Enola, Pennsyltucky
Posts: 2,108
Bikes: Motobecane Phantom Cross Pro Kona Lana'I
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I'm curious about the threat of a lawsuit for reselling your used pedals. I would have told them to go pound sand, they can't keep you from selling your personal property.