dgrenthum

2010 Specialized Hardrock disc @ 315lbs. Rims were cheap and single walled and kept warping on me. Got some Mavic 321 and no issues since

dkyser

I will add a Trek Navigator 3.0 to this now at 378 (hopefully less tomorrow on weigh in day)
Only road it one night so far but so far so good, love the upright position for now, as my gut gets smaller wont mind leaning as much.

squirtdad

I am not quite 300 (280) and ride older Japanese steel with no problems

Commuter/utility An old Niskhiki (1982)with a lot of updates..... Deore hubs with Sun Cr-18 rims, 32 spoke.

Road bike 89 Miyata 1400.... wheels are ultegra hubs with Velocity deep v rims, 32 spoke.

Kerrvillian

You are correct about the gut playing a role in your riding position choices. I was reminded of this when I got back on my bike after too long being off of it. Seemed like the 31 pounds I've lost so far were right there in front of where my thighs had to go up and down!

Don't know about where you ride but you may also want to be in a leaned over position if you get a lot of strong wind. I've been battling it this week and been forced to downshift while going DOWN hill from the force of the wind coming into my body.

gbpackers

gary fisher advance disc ...only had now 2 days but seems to be a great bike https://****************/mountain-bike...mountain-bike/

Big Boy

Trek 7.2FX and 1983 Miyata 610 here.

BroMax

https://www.torkerusa.com/archives/2010-t530

Daily commute two miles each way since 1st week of February, except snow days. Shown aboard Sounder commuter train to Tacoma. All stock (plus lights, kickstand) but I plan to improve on pedals.

Mazama

My 7200 served me for over 7,500 miles before I upgraded. My only issue was the seatpost, it snapped off! Do yourself a favor and get a Thomson seatpost!

Mazama

Currently on a Custom Co-Motion Mazama (discontinued).
https://co-motion.com/index.php/singles/touring_singles

RI_Swamp_Yankee

I'm 325, and for more than a year, I've been riding an Electra Townie 21D to work daily in almost all weather. It's got a pedal-forward, upright cruiser-like riding position, and mountain bike gears for tackling steep hills. I've made some modifications to make it more reliable and comfortable, but the stock drivetrain, wheels and tires seem to have held up pretty well, despite being low-range equipment.

- Converted the headset from threaded ball-bearing to threadless sealed bearing.
- Swapped the useless suspension fork for a suspension-corrected fixed fork and adjustable riser stem.
- Replaced the fragile integrated shifter/brakes for separate 7-speed indexed thumb shifters and brake levers.
- Ergon grips and a bar-end mounted mirror.*
- Stronger seat-collar, non-QR, with a security bolt.*
- Security skewers.
- BMX Platform pedals, sealed bearing.*
- Polished stainless steel fenders 'cuz they look coooool. Or they did until I swapped the fork, now I just have the one fender out back.
- Adjustable kickstand

*The only clyde-essential upgrades were the grips, the pedals and the seat collar. The grips to prevent numb hands when I need to lean forward and crank like crazy, the pedals because the cheap plastic stock ones explode after a week's hard use, and the seat collar, because the seat kept sinking, and tightening the stock collar to keep it in place was bending the heck out of it.

Kerrvillian

I'll admit I'm nowhere near your number of miles but my seat post has not shown any signs of problems. Might the issue have been the length of the post that projected on your model? What was your size/height and the frame size of the one your rode? As I mentioned, my LBS set me up with the largest of the 7200 sizes so I've never had more than 4 inches of exposed seat post projecting when my weight is on the bike.

My riding style would give the seat post a workout since I don't yet rise up off the seat even when climbing in granny low but remain seated. I'll keep your recommendation in mind should mine fail and also for the future on other bikes.

kentopolis

I started on a diamondback insight 1 (wasn't sure I would stY with it so didn't want to shell out big bucks right away) and am looking to upgrade to a road bike. I was 338 when I started, it did fine, but had to get the rear wheel spoke tension set properly.

I would love to know if anyone has a suggestion for a friend of mine, he's a foot bigger than me in every direction and weighs over 500. I know he's watched me shed the pounds biking and wants to try it, but not sure there's an option for him.

bassjones

Older steel frame bike with 48 spoke wheels - Preferably Velocity Chukkers... I don't think he'd have any trouble with that setup.

Kerrvillian

I don't know of any that go to 500+ but King Size catalog has a Plus Size Living section with bicycles that are rated to 400.

I would first have your friend check with his doctor before climbing on any bicycle.

Aahzz

https://worksmancycles.aitrk.com/?teng=go have been mentioned as having a weight rating of 500 pounds...

Aahzz

Here it is:
If you want a distinctive, classic, timeless, incredibly durable American Built, Worksman Cruiser Bicycles are perfect for you. Attention riders over 250 poundsNot only are our cruisers cool, unique, stylish and made in America, they are ideal for hefty riders. In fact, with the correct upgrades riders up to 500 pounds can be accommodated. Get out and ride a classic Worksman cruiser, built "Worksman Tough".

https://worksmancycles.aitrk.com/shop.../cruisers.html

Wogster

IIRC the only problem with the Worksman bikes is that if you want it to weigh less then 25, that you better be looking that the kilograms on the scale....

bassjones

Send your friend to this guy's blog - https://ernestgagnon.blogspot.com/ - and tell him to buy what Ernest is riding.

johnnywhale 

I bought an iron horse mtn bike fairly generic when i was 320 lbs.
Rode it for about a year and got down to 205.
Only issue was a few broken spokes from crappy ny roads.
Bought a nice road bike and really enjoy riding now.

nfmisso

Hi All;

Just joined. I qualify for this group, currently around 330lbs, and was around 400lbs a couple years ago when I purchased a Raleigh Venture (7 speed) from a LBS that I am very unhappy with.

Within a month, I had broken spokes twice on the rear wheel, and the shop charged me $35- each time to repair. After doing some research, I ordered a wheel with 12 ga spokes from BikePartsUSA.com. No broken spokes in well over 1K miles. The bearing cones did work loose, but not big deal, as the bearing should be repacked regularly anyway - learned this recently, and first repack was after it came loose. I use outboard motor lower end grease, cheap from Wal-mart and resists the elements. I have also tightened up the spokes - which I should have done as soon as the wheel arrived.

My primary bike is a '80's Schwinn World Tourist that I have done a bunch of upgrades (see my introduction). The only change for my weight was a set of Araya alloy wheels from the mid '80's I scored on e-bay last year. The front wheel is 36H, the rear 40H; both sealed bearings; with quality stainless steel spokes.

Recently, I built my self a truing stand to be able to rebuild the wheels that were on the World Tourist with Wheelsmith spokes - SS14 in front and non drive side in rear, DH13 on the drive side in the rear.

For the rear wheels, get 36H or more. Use Wheelsmith SS14 or DH13 spokes, with alot of tension. Stress relief frequently during the build process.

Nigel

Rock31

I was given a bike last night, a Specialized FSR Sport, I hope this one works out for me.

I am currently 350, don't plan on doing anything crazy, just nightly rides on the boardwalk for now.

mrurth

I'm at 370 pounds and trying to get started on a bike again. It's getting on a decade since the last time I was on two wheels.

I live next to Katy Trail, which is a pretty nice bike trail. I have no interest in mountain biking and I'll mostly be on pavement.

I went to my LBS today and they recommended the Specialized Globe Carmel 2 26".

Is this going to be a good place to start, or should I look at something else?

Arvadaman

mrurth,

Whatever you get, if it has a front shock on it, it should have a lockout to keep you from bottoming out the fork or bobbing down the trail wasting energy. Otherwise, go with a rigid fork bicycle. If you are staying on pavement, you generally don't need a suspension fork.

Nightshade

Tough, rugged and ready for anything doesn't apply to weight weenie bikes.

Workman bikes rule!

mrurth

Thanks for the help! The guy at the LBS said I shouldn't have any trouble with the shock on the Carmel. Always best to get a second opinion!