Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) Looking to lose that spare tire? Ideal weight 200+? Frustrated being a large cyclist in a sport geared for the ultra-light? Learn about the bikes and parts that can take the abuse of a heavier cyclist, how to keep your body going while losing the weight, and get support from others who've been successful.

Clyde worthy Wheel Set?

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Old 05-03-11, 09:50 PM
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mwchandler21
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Clyde worthy Wheel Set?

What wheel set would you guys recommend? I recently bought a CAAD10 that came with Shimano RS10s which have a fairly low spoke count (I think 20 and 24). After about 500 miles I broke a spoke on the back wheel. I'm hoping this won't be a continuing problem (partly because the straight pull spokes had to be special ordered by my LBS so its taking forever to get fixed) but am afraid it just might with this wheel set.
After browsing around some, it seems that the higher end wheels are going for being light and aero instead of durable, being a Clyde I'm more interested in the opposite.
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Old 05-04-11, 06:28 AM
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The BF Clydesdale "gold standard" is Mavic Open Pro rims, laced to Ultegra hubs with 32- (or preferrably 36-) spokes. I disagree a bit, though: almost all Mavic rims I have experience with have ended by spoke pull-through: the rim has cracked.

However, I have found an extremely good wheelbuilder and the 32-spoke Open Pro wheel he made for me has so far been remarkable: true without any hint of a wobble. (So far I have 1,000+ miles on it, so long-term evaluation is still out.) I am thinking if you can find such a wheelbuilder though, that rim cracks may be mitigated.

To address your lightweight/aero comment, I also am running an experiment on some generic 80mm carbon tubular rims (20/24 spokes) I got off eBay. They were built up by above wheelbuilder and after about 250-miles, are doing very well. I am pleasantly surprised so far.
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Old 05-04-11, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by mwchandler21 View Post
I recently bought a CAAD10 that came with Shimano RS10s which have a fairly low spoke count (I think 20 and 24). After about 500 miles I broke a spoke on the back wheel. I'm hoping this won't be a continuing problem (partly because the straight pull spokes had to be special ordered by my LBS so its taking forever to get fixed) but am afraid it just might with this wheel set.
Did your LBS check and adjust the spoke tension? Or did they just pull the wheels out of the box and slap them on the bike? Most shops do the latter, which is why Clydes frequently have wheel problems. Get a good wheelsmith to check and adjust the tension and you might not have any additional problems...
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Old 05-04-11, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by mwchandler21 View Post
I broke a spoke on the back wheel.

Welcome to my world... I've done it TWICE in less than 1 year. And now after going over everything, I think I know why both broke. My own error.
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Old 05-04-11, 10:02 AM
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I am a clyde at 260 and I use ksyrium ES's. I love them. They are lightweight and bomb proof.

Just a thought...

I also have a set of open pros laced to dura ace hubs...
32 spokes on that one.
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Old 05-04-11, 05:39 PM
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I did the same thing on my stock Shimano wheel (RS 20). I replaced with DT Swiss RR585 (32 spokes). I use Velocity Deep Vs (36 spokes) on my commuter. So far so good.
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Old 05-04-11, 07:35 PM
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I am 300+lbs; my commuter has 27" Suze-Araya wheels (mid '80's vintage) with good stainless spokes, 36 front, 40 rear. I bought them off eBay in September, and since I have put on 2000+ miles no issues.

The previous wheels were cheap 36 spoke alloys from Amazon, spokes started breaking in less than 300 miles. I rebuilt then with well tensioned Wheelsmith spokes, SS14 in front and left side in the rear; and DH13 spokes on the drive side. They are my spare wheels, as yet unused.

My general rule for my bikes is at least 36 spokes in each wheel.

Take a look at Peter White's website for tandem wheels - also applicable for us.
http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/tandemparts.asp

At the lower end Sun CR18 rims, 36H; Wheelsmith SS14 on the front and left rear, DH13 on the right rear with any decent hub. Parts for the set can be had for less than $200- if you shop the 'net.
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Old 05-04-11, 07:42 PM
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on the cheap (~100 used), i picked up some (probably 2008 or so) fulcrum racing 7's. at 220 for a season of cross racing and general riding/training on all surfaces, i have been pleasantly surprised
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Old 05-04-11, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by mwchandler21 View Post
What wheel set would you guys recommend? I recently bought a CAAD10 that came with Shimano RS10s which have a fairly low spoke count (I think 20 and 24). After about 500 miles I broke a spoke on the back wheel. I'm hoping this won't be a continuing problem (partly because the straight pull spokes had to be special ordered by my LBS so its taking forever to get fixed) but am afraid it just might with this wheel set.
After browsing around some, it seems that the higher end wheels are going for being light and aero instead of durable, being a Clyde I'm more interested in the opposite.
You need wheels with no less than 36 spokes (40 spokes would be great) per wheel.
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Old 05-04-11, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Nightshade View Post
You need wheels with no less than 36 spokes (40 spokes would be great) per wheel.
You don't know how much the OP weighs, but you're sure he needs 36-40 spokes/wheel?
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Old 05-04-11, 08:54 PM
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230# and ride Carbons [16 front 20 rear, tubulars] from time to time without any problems. "Ride" = fast training w/intervals and sprint set in 53x11. It's more about how a wheels built then how tough the build components are imo. That and you can't just sit on your seat like a sack of potatoes and think that a tiny air volume tire is going to absorb hits like a Baja Trophy truck. If you wanna roll like that just run a 28mm+ tire.

Last edited by Agave; 05-05-11 at 09:52 AM.
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Old 05-05-11, 05:57 AM
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Velocity Deep V rims are a pretty popular choice in here. Depending on your weight, 32 or 36 spokes, brass nipples rather than alloy, and 14 gage spokes. Really any hub will do. You can get Shimano 105 series hubs for pretty cheap or go up a step and get Ultegra series. If you want to get fancier hubs, White Industries, Chris King, DT Swiss, American Classics or Phil Woods. White Industries are the cheapest of that group and Phil Woods are the most expensive.
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Old 05-05-11, 07:26 AM
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Case in point: I had a Deep-V 32 hole built and it fell apart.
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Old 05-05-11, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Agave View Post
Case in point: I had a Deep-V 32 hole built and it fell apart.
That's why it all comes down to "who" builds the wheel. You can buy the strongest individual components in the world but if it's put together by someone who does not know what they are doing you are wasting your money and time...
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Old 05-05-11, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Homeyba View Post
That's why it all comes down to "who" builds the wheel. You can buy the strongest individual components in the world but if it's put together by someone who does not know what they are doing you are wasting your money and time...
230# and ride Carbons [16 front 20 rear, tubulars] from time to time without any problems. "Ride" = fast training w/intervals and sprint set in 53x11. It's more about how a wheels built then how tough the build components are imo. That and you can't just sit on your seat like a sack of potatoes and think that a tiny air volume tire is going to absorbs hits like a Baja Trophy truck. If you wanna roll like that just run a 28mm+ tire.
Uh, yeah.
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Old 05-05-11, 09:52 AM
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Hand built wheelset, 36h Velocity Deep V's here, with 105 hubs, DT 14/15/14 spokes. I've only had them for a week or so, so no comments on durability, but I expect them to last pretty much forever.
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Old 05-05-11, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Agave View Post
Case in point: I had a Deep-V 32 hole built and it fell apart.
Originally Posted by Agave View Post
Uh, yeah.


Agree with Homey! I'm heavier than you, I built my 32 spoke wheels that lasted 20,000+ miles with one slight true at 13,000 miles. Brake surface wore out but wheel still true, retired for safety reasons.

I'm now actually doing an experiement, I'm riding 30mm rims (Mavic CXP30) similar to Deep V's with 28 spokes. I've got aobut 8,000 miles on them with one small minor true at about 5,000 miles. I'm actually surprised they are doing this well since the pro's at the LBS couldn't keep them straight for more thant two rides and said I was too heavy at 220lbs. I rebuilt them with new spokes and they are doing well and I'm now at 250lbs.

The fact these guys couldn't keep them straight but I rebuilt them myself goes to prove the point, it's the builder. BTW, Same problem with the front, I didn't rebuild with new spokes, just retensioned it and it's fine with 24 spokes. The shop couldn't keep this wheel straight either.

If your 32's fell apart at 230 lbs, blame your builder!

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Old 05-05-11, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by mwchandler21 View Post
What wheel set would you guys recommend?

After browsing around some, it seems that the higher end wheels are going for being light and aero instead of durable, being a Clyde I'm more interested in the opposite.
My Cervelo came with Fulcrum Racing 7 wheels, with 20 spokes in the front, and 24 in the back. They're heavy, but strong. I've put about 2,700 miles on the bike, hit some nasty pot holes (bad enough to leave my hand hurting), and gone down a few curbs I didn't see, etc. They don't even come out of true.
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Old 05-07-11, 04:03 PM
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265 lbs - Mavic open sport 36 spoke which I ride on dirt and gravel roads and they are holding up well.
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