Question About Mountain Bike Purchase for 340 lbs.
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Question About Mountain Bike Purchase for 340 lbs.
Hi everyone,
I have a friend that wants to get into biking to help lose weight. He is at 340 lbs. at the moment. I mountain bike a little, so he has asked me to help him find a bike. His budget is $300-$400. There's a used bike available with the below specs. Anyone spot any issues with buying this bike? It will mostly be used for roads and flat trails.
I appreciate the input!
-Eric
2011 Trek 4300 Mountain Bike
Disc Alpha series
MSRP (new): $659.99
Frame Construction: TIG-welded Frame Tubing Material Alloy
Fork Brand & Model: Spinner 300, 100mm travel
Component Group: Shimano mix
Brakeset: Promax DSK-907
Shift Levers: Shimano M360
Front Derailleur: Shimano M310
Rear Derailleur: Shimano M410
Crankset: Shimano M311, 22/32/42 teeth
Pedals: Wellgo Alloy Platform
Rear Cogs: 8-speed, 11 - 32 teeth
Seatpost: Bontrager SSR, 31.6mm diameter
Saddle: Bontrager Evoke 1
Handlebar: Bontrager SSR
Handlebar Stem: Bontrager SSR
Headset: 1 1/8" threadless Semi integrated
Wheels
Hubs: Front: Formula DC20, Rear: Shimano alloy M475
Rims: Bontrager Ranger, 32-hole
Tires: 26 x 2.1" Bontrager XR2
I have a friend that wants to get into biking to help lose weight. He is at 340 lbs. at the moment. I mountain bike a little, so he has asked me to help him find a bike. His budget is $300-$400. There's a used bike available with the below specs. Anyone spot any issues with buying this bike? It will mostly be used for roads and flat trails.
I appreciate the input!
-Eric
2011 Trek 4300 Mountain Bike
Disc Alpha series
MSRP (new): $659.99
Frame Construction: TIG-welded Frame Tubing Material Alloy
Fork Brand & Model: Spinner 300, 100mm travel
Component Group: Shimano mix
Brakeset: Promax DSK-907
Shift Levers: Shimano M360
Front Derailleur: Shimano M310
Rear Derailleur: Shimano M410
Crankset: Shimano M311, 22/32/42 teeth
Pedals: Wellgo Alloy Platform
Rear Cogs: 8-speed, 11 - 32 teeth
Seatpost: Bontrager SSR, 31.6mm diameter
Saddle: Bontrager Evoke 1
Handlebar: Bontrager SSR
Handlebar Stem: Bontrager SSR
Headset: 1 1/8" threadless Semi integrated
Wheels
Hubs: Front: Formula DC20, Rear: Shimano alloy M475
Rims: Bontrager Ranger, 32-hole
Tires: 26 x 2.1" Bontrager XR2
Last edited by estassen; 03-05-13 at 02:14 PM. Reason: More details
#2
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Well i'am in the same boat. I weigh 370 and at first got the wrong bike and it was really a pain but i just got this bike and went on 2 rides and everything is just great. the bike is a 23 inch frame (I'M 6'4) but check out the link. Hope it helps.
https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/..._adventure.htm
https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/..._adventure.htm
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I think point of failure for most heavy riders are the wheels.
That would be mechanical point of failure.
I would advise 36 spoke wheels and double wall rims.
That said I bought a bikes direct bike equipped with 32 spoke wheels and double wall rims and they held up fine. I put about 100 miles on them at 325-330 pounds.
Looking back I wish I would have gotten a used Raleigh with steel rims and 36 spoke wheels (if a 40/32 wheeled one was available I would have gotten that instead).
I bought a pair Of Raleigh sports hybrid bikes circa 1975-1985 ish an the wheels they came on seem very rock solid. Steel rims/hubs/spokes 36 per wheel. I gave one to my father and one to my sister. I road my father's bike at least 100 miles both off and on road and no problems at all with the wheels (or an part for that matter).
Both bikes seemed to be nearly unridden and after a checkup and lube up were deemed rideable by my decision.
Just as important as wheels would be tires. Big tires provide more cushioning to the wheels, in my opinion. As a heavy rider who lives in an area with generally bumpy roads I ride the biggest tires that fit my road bike. 700x30 brontager satellite LS if I remember right. I upgraded to a 29er from bikes direct and put that same set of tires on it. Though I could go much larger of a tire I feel the 700x30 brontagers are adequate. I have also lost 40 pounds so I dont ask as much from my tires and wheels.
36 spokes
Double wall rims
Larger tires
Maybe thorn resistant tubes
Just my opinion.
On my road bike I tacod the rear wheel and replaced
It with a "sta-tru" brand double wall 36 spoke wheel that had no problem supporting me at my heaviest. If you or your friend like the bike you described, but are worried about asking too much from your wheels, consider getting a set of those double wall 36 spoke sta-trus. Bike store charged me around 80 for the wheel and swap of the freewheel. If you went ahead and purchased a strong wheelset with the bike from day one, then you would have a backup wheel set that came original.
Just a thought.
No doubt that strategy may be prohibitively costly, but if you got a used bike and a new wheelset you may stay within your budget.
I am a fan of used bikes though; reduce, re-use, recycle.
That would be mechanical point of failure.
I would advise 36 spoke wheels and double wall rims.
That said I bought a bikes direct bike equipped with 32 spoke wheels and double wall rims and they held up fine. I put about 100 miles on them at 325-330 pounds.
Looking back I wish I would have gotten a used Raleigh with steel rims and 36 spoke wheels (if a 40/32 wheeled one was available I would have gotten that instead).
I bought a pair Of Raleigh sports hybrid bikes circa 1975-1985 ish an the wheels they came on seem very rock solid. Steel rims/hubs/spokes 36 per wheel. I gave one to my father and one to my sister. I road my father's bike at least 100 miles both off and on road and no problems at all with the wheels (or an part for that matter).
Both bikes seemed to be nearly unridden and after a checkup and lube up were deemed rideable by my decision.
Just as important as wheels would be tires. Big tires provide more cushioning to the wheels, in my opinion. As a heavy rider who lives in an area with generally bumpy roads I ride the biggest tires that fit my road bike. 700x30 brontager satellite LS if I remember right. I upgraded to a 29er from bikes direct and put that same set of tires on it. Though I could go much larger of a tire I feel the 700x30 brontagers are adequate. I have also lost 40 pounds so I dont ask as much from my tires and wheels.
36 spokes
Double wall rims
Larger tires
Maybe thorn resistant tubes
Just my opinion.
On my road bike I tacod the rear wheel and replaced
It with a "sta-tru" brand double wall 36 spoke wheel that had no problem supporting me at my heaviest. If you or your friend like the bike you described, but are worried about asking too much from your wheels, consider getting a set of those double wall 36 spoke sta-trus. Bike store charged me around 80 for the wheel and swap of the freewheel. If you went ahead and purchased a strong wheelset with the bike from day one, then you would have a backup wheel set that came original.
Just a thought.
No doubt that strategy may be prohibitively costly, but if you got a used bike and a new wheelset you may stay within your budget.
I am a fan of used bikes though; reduce, re-use, recycle.
#5
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There is nothing wrong with that entry level Trek, especially if you can get it used at a good price. The fork will be worthless at his weight. If it is in the budget I would swap for a rigid. If it is going to be trail ridden, get a front tire that is an honest 2.4" or 2.5" ( in 26" I like the Maxxis Holy Rollers around here), so it can be ridden at moderate pressure without pinch flatting.
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I would also spend about $20 and get a stem riser(Diamond too. It will change your riding posture(more upright) and puts less strain on your hands/wrists/back/legs. It feels nicer to ride now and if your friend has a good sized/big stomach then his legs might hit him in the stomach in the typical mtb bike riding position and this will help with that too.. Also get a nice seat as stock wont be comfortable for long I'd imagine. I started at around 330 and yeah stock seats suck lol but I'm not willing to shell out money for a brooks saddle until I upgrade to a better bike(current ride is a surprisingly tough sams club fs bike plan on getting a ht/rigid soonish) and lose some weight too but back to theseat I purchased a Sunlife Cloud 9 and while it's low end its nice and now my rear doesnt hurt at all on my rides anymore. For 40 bucks you cant go wrong as the only pain you should be feeling now is the burning of working your musles.
Links:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Links:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
#7
The Recumbent Quant
Hi,
Is he going to be riding off-road? If not, then I'd definitely look for something without a suspension fork and with smooth tires.
Cheers,
Charles
Is he going to be riding off-road? If not, then I'd definitely look for something without a suspension fork and with smooth tires.
Cheers,
Charles
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While that is a great deal on the bikesdirect bike I am not a fan of low end suspension. The Trek is also low end suspension and would have to be super cheap to not justify buying new (just something about a NEW bike). That being said, I would save some money and look for an older MTB with a rigid fork. I wouldn't worry about the wheels much, most MTB 26" wheels will be fine.
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The bikesdirect bike, the Motobecane Elite Adventure is a nice bike. My brother actually has one, and I helped put it together. VERY impressed with build quality, and its a darn nice looking bike, too!
That said, I would NOT get that for someone of his size, due to the suspension fork. My brother is all of 140 at most, and its soft enough for him, meaning it would likely be too squishy even for me, at 220. For road and flat trail, I am a fan of a rigid fork. No loss of energy!
That said, I would NOT get that for someone of his size, due to the suspension fork. My brother is all of 140 at most, and its soft enough for him, meaning it would likely be too squishy even for me, at 220. For road and flat trail, I am a fan of a rigid fork. No loss of energy!
#10
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When I started to first ride...just months ago I was 344 pounds I bought a used trek 1989 Steel Lugged frame mtb it has the double wall rims and I bought the longer stem and even more upright handle bars with a 3.25 rise and it was great I found the bike on craigslist for 100 bucks just to make sure I did not spend a lot on the first bike as it was being experimental..meaning will I stick with it. I am sticking with it, and I have since bought a giant steel frame sedona st bike comfort bike cause I am not a mtb biker just like to ride for exercise and enjoyment
good luck to you
Like most have said get a bike with a solid front fork and solid seatpost too cause a suspension post will not work
good luck to you
Like most have said get a bike with a solid front fork and solid seatpost too cause a suspension post will not work
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