Can a rear wheel be moved to the front once the cassette is removed?
#1
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Can a rear wheel be moved to the front once the cassette is removed?
As I prepare to purchase my first road bike (been riding since February), it occurs to me that I might be able to avoid having both a front and rear wheel built for the new bike (I'm enormous). The stock rear wheel is the same spoke count (and approximately the same specs) that I would want on a front wheel. I'm going to build a rear wheel, but maybe I don't have to build a front?
Is it possible to remove the cassette from a rear wheel and turn it in to a front wheel with minimal expense? Or are they generally incompatible? (I ask as a general matter--I'm aware that the ultimate answer may very well be bike and/or wheel specific.)
Is it possible to remove the cassette from a rear wheel and turn it in to a front wheel with minimal expense? Or are they generally incompatible? (I ask as a general matter--I'm aware that the ultimate answer may very well be bike and/or wheel specific.)
#3
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No. The spacing is very different between the dropouts on the front and rear. Probably 100 mm on the front of your bike and 130 mm on the back.
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The above answers are correct.
It's worth noting, as well, that your front wheel won't experience the loads that your rear wheel would, which is why it's more important to build a sturdier rear wheel i.e, worry more about the rear and less about the front.
It's worth noting, as well, that your front wheel won't experience the loads that your rear wheel would, which is why it's more important to build a sturdier rear wheel i.e, worry more about the rear and less about the front.
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Exactly what I needed to know. Thank you all. That's what I suspected, but I hoped I was somehow wrong.
Alas, both wheels it is, then--emphasis on the rear one.
Alas, both wheels it is, then--emphasis on the rear one.
#6
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What's wrong with your current wheels?
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All the info above is correct, but there *is* one exception. Most Fatbikes run a 170mm hub spacing in both front and back, allowing you to swap wheels out. I know a guy with a single-speed Pugsley and he put a bailout gear on his front wheel so that if he ever gets stuck anywhere he can swap the wheels and have an easier gear.
But generally speaking this is uncommon.
But generally speaking this is uncommon.
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#9
just pedal
All the info above is correct, but there *is* one exception. Most Fatbikes run a 170mm hub spacing in both front and back, allowing you to swap wheels out. I know a guy with a single-speed Pugsley and he put a bailout gear on his front wheel so that if he ever gets stuck anywhere he can swap the wheels and have an easier gear.
But generally speaking this is uncommon.
But generally speaking this is uncommon.
but to the OP... yes the rear standard has changed over the years and based on what sort of bike it is (track, road, mtb, tandem)...
this is a good bit of info to learn
https://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html
#10
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You aren't providing many details such as your weight and what wheels come on the bike.
IF you are "THAT" big, maybe a road bike isn't up to the task?
Getting wheels PROPERLY tensioned before using them can dramatically prolong their life, but again, without any details.........
IF the rear wheel has more spokes, the RIM may be usable up front, although you'd need a new hub and probably 1/2 new spokes. (Typically, NDS rear spokes are very close in length to front spokes)
IF you are "THAT" big, maybe a road bike isn't up to the task?
Getting wheels PROPERLY tensioned before using them can dramatically prolong their life, but again, without any details.........
IF the rear wheel has more spokes, the RIM may be usable up front, although you'd need a new hub and probably 1/2 new spokes. (Typically, NDS rear spokes are very close in length to front spokes)
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You aren't providing many details such as your weight and what wheels come on the bike.
IF you are "THAT" big, maybe a road bike isn't up to the task?
Getting wheels PROPERLY tensioned before using them can dramatically prolong their life, but again, without any details.........
IF the rear wheel has more spokes, the RIM may be usable up front, although you'd need a new hub and probably 1/2 new spokes. (Typically, NDS rear spokes are very close in length to front spokes)
IF you are "THAT" big, maybe a road bike isn't up to the task?
Getting wheels PROPERLY tensioned before using them can dramatically prolong their life, but again, without any details.........
IF the rear wheel has more spokes, the RIM may be usable up front, although you'd need a new hub and probably 1/2 new spokes. (Typically, NDS rear spokes are very close in length to front spokes)