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Old 08-22-14, 11:22 PM
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You pick em', I'm buying!

Hey everyone,

I have some frames en-route and I'm not sure what parts to put on them. I'm going to be focusing on the 2010 Cannondale F9 first.
My biggest concern is getting parts that will support my weight (I'm 6'5" and 265lbs). I stripped the BB on my old cannondale trail sl4 several times and don't want that problem ever again. That being said let's hear those recommendations! I literally need everything as I'm building from scratch.

(My budget is somewhat limited so this project will be something I complete over time.)

I live in Mountainous Montana and plan on a lot of steep vertical miles so it's gotta be tough.

Thanks!
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Old 08-23-14, 02:08 PM
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Check this thread to get an idea of how I approached a frame up build:

https://www.bikeforums.net/clydesdale...tto-build.html

Is the F9 coming with a fork?

How do you imagine you're going to use the F9? That may have significant consequences to your choice of fork and wheels.

Any thoughts on whether you prefer 9,10 or 11 speeds in the rear? Basically, the higher the gear count the lighter, narrower and less durable the chain.
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Old 08-23-14, 02:54 PM
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bigfred considering F9 is a mtn bike and so is the sl4 plus he is talking about steep miles in the mtns, I am thinking he is building a mtn bike for off road. Since I'm not into that yet I've no useful advice. I am wanting to see how this develops though.
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Old 08-23-14, 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Black wallnut
bigfred considering F9 is a mtn bike and so is the sl4 plus he is talking about steep miles in the mtns, I am thinking he is building a mtn bike for off road. Since I'm not into that yet I've no useful advice. I am wanting to see how this develops though.
He's also mentioned a 61cm Cannondale road frame. Sounds like he's interested in building up both an mtb and a road bike.
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Old 08-24-14, 12:39 AM
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The basics of my advice would be to avoid the lightest of light components (Shimano XTR, Sram XX). Stick with Shimano SLX or XT and you should be fine.

The big failure points for Clydes are wheels, followed by weight and torque bearing components: freehubs, pedal axles, bb spindles, chains. This holds more or less true regardless of whether we're talking mtb or road.

Freehubs/freewheels: I've trashed quite a few over the years. But, never a steel shimano unit. Stick to XT(mtb) or Ultegra(road) or lower and they're as durable as anything else on the market, and not too dear in price. There are a few riders who have still managed to break a steel Shimano freehub. But, they're as good a bet as you're going to find for moderate cost.

Pedal spindles: Just stick to chromoly steel. Avoid titanium.

Chains: 9,10 or 11 More gears equals quicker wear. I've broken chains from 6spd-10spd(I don't have any 11spd, yet). But, never at one of the modern quicklink joints. I have broken them at the point one of the special, hardened Shimano pins has been used to rejoin a chain.

Bottom Bracket Spindles: Assuming your issues have been with the spindle/crank arm interface and not the cups. I suffered plenty of issues during the square taper years. But, I've yet to kill an ISIS or Hollowtech (2pc) style spindle. I have worn through some bearings though. However, that has more to do with sideload, riding conditions, cleaning and lubrication than it does rider weight.

There are a few other clyde standards. Thomson seatpost are particularly poplular for their robust construction and wide, pressure distributing, rail clamps. Saddles with Chromoly rails seem to hold up better than some lighter options. However, I currently have both a carbon railed and a titanium railed saddle that are both holding up fine. ....so far. My mtb still has steel rails.

Do you have any questions about specifics? Or, list what you're considering as your build kit and see if anyone picks up on any red flags.
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Old 08-25-14, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by bigfred
Check this thread to get an idea of how I approached a frame up build:

https://www.bikeforums.net/clydesdale...tto-build.html

Is the F9 coming with a fork?

How do you imagine you're going to use the F9? That may have significant consequences to your choice of fork and wheels.

Any thoughts on whether you prefer 9,10 or 11 speeds in the rear? Basically, the higher the gear count the lighter, narrower and less durable the chain.
Great advice Fred!
The F9 did not come with a fork (although it was supposed too.)
I will be using the bike for primarily trail riding - about 25% on big hills/mountains. I have absolutely no idea what I should be looking for when it comes to the fork. I was going to use the factory options as guidelines and upgrade where I see fit.

It sounds like I'm going to be going with the 9 gears in the rear - I usually stay in the upper gears all the time and I would prefer a heavy strong chain.

Originally Posted by bigfred
He's also mentioned a 61cm Cannondale road frame. Sounds like he's interested in building up both an mtb and a road bike.
You are correct but the F9 will be my primary focus and I won't even start on the road bike until it's complete.
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Old 08-25-14, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by bigfred
The basics of my advice would be to avoid the lightest of light components (Shimano XTR, Sram XX). Stick with Shimano SLX or XT and you should be fine.
You hit the nail on the head with the advice - this is the kind of stuff I was hoping for. Thank you.

Bottom Bracket Spindles: Assuming your issues have been with the spindle/crank arm interface and not the cups. I suffered plenty of issues during the square taper years. But, I've yet to kill an ISIS or Hollowtech (2pc) style spindle. I have worn through some bearings though. However, that has more to do with sideload, riding conditions, cleaning and lubrication than it does rider weight.
The 2pc is going to be essential for my success I think. If I'm understanding everything correctly the square taper is what I had and it failed me big time.

Do you have any questions about specifics? Or, list what you're considering as your build kit and see if anyone picks up on any red flags.
You're covering pretty much everything here - I'm doing as much of the research as I can but these measurements are messing me up.
The standard for the BB of the Cannondale MTBs is BB30 - I have NO idea what that means. Same for the 22x32x44? I get that it's measurements pertaining to the BB and BB shell... but yeah...
I've been looking at the Shimano kits that include all of the drive train/crank shaft/shifters/brakes etc. but I'm not quite sure what way to go - now with some of your wisdom in my arsenal I'm going to brave the internet again.
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Old 08-25-14, 08:17 PM
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The F9 arrived today by the way, still waiting on the rest. Shes a beaut.
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Old 08-25-14, 09:55 PM
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As I'm shopping around I'm running in to an issue with finding "BB30" - it seems all shimano bbs are BB70.

I'm sure there is some type of adapter for this but I'm struggling to figure it out.

I've put some stuff in the wish list - please let me know your thoughts.
https://amzn.com/w/3P81NVWIZB8AM
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Old 08-26-14, 01:11 AM
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Originally Posted by srinaldo86
As I'm shopping around I'm running in to an issue with finding "BB30" - it seems all shimano bbs are BB70.

I'm sure there is some type of adapter for this but I'm struggling to figure it out.

I've put some stuff in the wish list - please let me know your thoughts.
https://amzn.com/w/3P81NVWIZB8AM
You won't find a Shimano BB30 bottom bracket. Shimano has retained 24mm bottom bracket spindles throughout. However, there are plenty of sources for adaptors that allow you to run a shimano Hollowtech crank in a BB30 shell.

Are you sure the F9 frame has a BB30 shell? If you look in the shell, is it threaded? Or, does it simply have a pair of thin, recessed shoulders machined into it?

Before you get too carried away with groupset shopping, you need to identify what size Headtube the frame has and subsequently what size headset bearings and fork steerer tube will be required.

You'll also need to know what diameter seatpost you're going to require, as well as length.

What frame size is the F9?

With regard to groupset shopping, look for cranks no shorter than 175mm. Preferably 180mm. But, you only get 180mm from Shimano in the XT line. I'm not sure which models Sram may do in 180mm.

Most of us that build up a frame from scratch do so because we have very specific expectations about what we require of the bike. Subsequently, we tend to ala'carte things.

If you don't have specific requitements it's typically far cheaper to buy a complete bike than it is build one from scratch. New or used.
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Old 08-26-14, 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by bigfred
However, there are plenty of sources for adaptors that allow you to run a shimano Hollowtech crank in a BB30 shell.
Praxis works https://praxiscycles.com/conversion-bb/ makes a bottom bracket adapter to suit the Shimano cranksets that is pretty well regarded.

Originally Posted by bigfred
If you don't have specific requitements it's typically far cheaper to buy a complete bike than it is build one from scratch. New or used.
A MTB rider friend of mine tells me that this is why we in Aust see lots of new and unused Giant frames up for sale on ebay. Riders like yourself buy them and strip the gear off them to put into custom builds because they're such good value.

Also check out the MTBR forums. They have a clyde specific section that would give you really good info as to what parts last and what don't.
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Old 08-26-14, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by brawlo
Praxis works https://praxiscycles.com/conversion-bb/ makes a bottom bracket adapter to suit the Shimano cranksets that is pretty well regarded.



A MTB rider friend of mine tells me that this is why we in Aust see lots of new and unused Giant frames up for sale on ebay. Riders like yourself buy them and strip the gear off them to put into custom builds because they're such good value.

Also check out the MTBR forums. They have a clyde specific section that would give you really good info as to what parts last and what don't.
Wow! I hadn't seen the Praxis BB solution before. I have a friend with an S-works frame that has eaten several bottom brackets. This might solve his issue for him. Specialized has continued to claim that his BB is within design tolerances and won't warrantee it. I have no idea how many sets of bearings he's been through. But, I bet he would be happy if $85 solved his problems.

I'm not sure about OZ, but here in NZ all my riding buddies seem to be picking up rediculously good deals on complete Ultegra and DA rigs at the moment. And, without housebranded wheels, brakes, etc. Full Shimano kits and either Shimano or Mavic wheel systems.

While I occassionally mountainbike I'm not up to speed with the current state of afairs. The MTBR clydesdale forum recommendation is an excellent one.
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Old 08-26-14, 05:54 PM
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Not parts ideas per se but some suggestions as it sounds like you have not done a lot wrenching and are not 100% bike gear head yet.

park tools site has a lot of great info Park Tool Co. ParkTool Blog

look at some local resources....I got these from googling so cannot vouch for them personally

Community Shop looks like a local coop/place to work on bikes

Local Cycling Resources - Missoula Bike Club


good luck from a former montanan (chinook on the hi-line)
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Old 08-27-14, 12:52 AM
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Originally Posted by bigfred
I'm not sure about OZ, but here in NZ all my riding buddies seem to be picking up rediculously good deals on complete Ultegra and DA rigs at the moment. And, without housebranded wheels, brakes, etc. Full Shimano kits and either Shimano or Mavic wheel systems.
I was really referring to MTB specifically as far as the Giant brand. There's a lot of other branded road bikes that have the same cheap characteristic. I recall one last year that came out with Ultegra Di2 that was the same price for the whole bike as the groupset on its own! Needless to say they had no problem selling those bikes, and there were plenty of unused new frames on the market.....
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