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Are Carbon Bars Clyde-safe?

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Are Carbon Bars Clyde-safe?

Old 11-06-14, 08:00 AM
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Are Carbon Bars Clyde-safe?

I thought I read something a while back about carbon drop bars breaking under clyde weight on road bikes. Is that accurate or did I imagine that? Anyone using them? Any pros/cons?
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Old 11-06-14, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Jarrett2
I thought I read something a while back about carbon drop bars breaking under clyde weight on road bikes. Is that accurate or did I imagine that? Anyone using them? Any pros/cons?
Are you doing handstands on the bars ? If you are putting that kind of pressure on the bars you are doing it wrong.
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Old 11-06-14, 09:37 AM
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I reckon they're fine but why do you want to spend that much money on handlebars?

They do supposedly make a difference, but even me with my profligate spending ways ... still using AL
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Old 11-06-14, 09:37 AM
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If there's anything carbon that's going to break on a bike, I would have guessed the last thing would be the drop bars. Seat posts, frames, forks... sure. How much weight do you put on handlebars?
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Old 11-06-14, 09:59 AM
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If you ride with a LOT of weight on the bars, and your riding style has you hitting bumps hard, they could break.

But so could AL bars under those conditions.

The only difference is if you overtorque the stem holding the carbon bars, they WILL break.
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Old 11-06-14, 10:41 AM
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I'm the usual 60/40 weight split on my road bikes. I have a torque wrench that I tighten everything down with.

A buddy just found a set for $40 on CL. I thought if I ran across some like that I might make the switch if they are safe.
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Old 11-06-14, 11:13 AM
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What I have learned about carbon bars.... I have a good friend that ruined two bars in one week just torquing them down. We suspect slightly oversize, out of speck bars. Friends that ride on them swear by them as they do give a much improved feel and take away chipseal vibration. If I were to try them I would for sure measure the bars and the stem with precision calipers to ensure they match. These bars make sense to me, if I had the money and if they fit.......
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Old 11-06-14, 11:56 AM
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I would NOT get used CF bars. You don't know if they been crashed, how many tip overs the bike had. Stick with alum fi shopping used, 3T makes great bars in alum for under $100 and almost as light as CF.

I'd buy CF bars is new and looking to dampen more road buzz that tires can't offer.

Had these ergosums forever then moved to ergnovas. the novas are flat top and bit more flared out dropped. Also come in 46 for more leverage I want on my cross bike.
3T Ergosum Pro Handlebar - Drop Handlebars | Competitive Cyclist

3T Ergonova Pro Alloy Handlebar | Competitive Cyclist
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Old 11-06-14, 12:42 PM
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@jsigone I'm only seeing that either bar is available up to 44 cm.
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Old 11-06-14, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Black wallnut
@jsigone I'm only seeing that either bar is available up to 44 cm.
sorry I get most of my parts from bikebling since they are few miles from me and crap ton in stock They have the pull down for a 46 and inventory is pretty accurate.

3T ErgoNova Pro Handlebar from Bike Bling
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Old 11-06-14, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Jarrett2
I thought I read something a while back about carbon drop bars breaking

This clip of Hincapie's CF bars failing in the '06 Paris Roubaix is enough to keep this non-Clyde on aluminum bars/stems:

[Cycling] Paris - Roubaix 2006: George Hincapie crashes - YouTube

Technology may have improved and my rough chip-seal roads are not the pave' but for me: Pass.

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Old 11-06-14, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Bandera
This clip of Hincapie's CF bars failing in the '06 Paris Roubaix is enough to keep this non-Clyde on aluminum bars/stems:

[Cycling] Paris - Roubaix 2006: George Hincapie crashes - YouTube

Technology may have improved and my rough chip-seal roads are not the pave' but for me: Pass.

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Did you watch the video? It was not his bars that broke. It was his steer tube that sheared off. FWIW that might have been carbon as well.
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Old 11-06-14, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Black wallnut
Did you watch the video? It was not his bars that broke. It was his steer tube that sheared off. FWIW that might have been carbon as well.

You are correct: "Hincapie's hopes snap with steerer tube" -Cycling News


"Hincapie was riding an aluminum steerer tube in Paris-Roubaix. It was a 6061 aluminum steerer, the same one that we have been using on team and production bikes for over 8 years. Although we are experts in carbon fiber, we have always leaned to the conservative (and, hopefully, safe) side of fork technology. This has prompted us to remain with aluminum steerers, even for our team bikes..... After careful analysis of the broken parts, as well as replicating the failure in our test lab, it was a convergence of issues that combined to cause the failure, with the predominant factors being George’s first crash earlier in the day and the brutal nature of Paris-Roubaix itself." -Trek in Velonews

As Roseann Roseanadana often said: "Well, nevermind...."

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Old 11-06-14, 03:06 PM
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Ride on them for a few months and replace them every spring OK by you? that would be playing it safe.

The pros replace stuff several times during the season ..

Last edited by fietsbob; 11-06-14 at 03:10 PM.
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Old 11-06-14, 03:07 PM
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Fact is anything on a bike can break. 2 years ago I broke the crank arm on my Rockhopper in half. Looked exactly like the picture on this web page:

fatigue: metal fatigue --*Kids Encyclopedia | Children's Homework Help | Kids Online Dictionary | Britannica

Nobody I ride with believes me that I broke a crank arm like this just riding. Still I have the scars to prove it!
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Old 11-06-14, 03:20 PM
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Carbon bars are also not subject to corrosion from sweat. If you sweat heavily when riding, carbon bars may well outlast Al bars.
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Old 11-06-14, 04:02 PM
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Who has ever managed to sweat-corrode aluminum handle bars?
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Old 11-06-14, 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by TrojanHorse
Who has ever managed to sweat-corrode aluminum handle bars?
People who ride trainers a lot.

The Bespoke Cycles Blog: Don't let this happen to you!
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Old 11-06-14, 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by dr_lha
Dang!

OK, I'm calling that one more reason to avoid trainers.
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Old 11-06-14, 05:05 PM
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Good thing I ride outside I ride gloveless 98% of the time, so knock on wood my 3t alum bars have good coating. Most saturdays my bars are soaked in sweat at some point and ridden next to the coast.
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Old 11-06-14, 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by TrojanHorse
I reckon they're fine but why do you want to spend that much money on handlebars?
I bought my carbon 3T Ergosum handlebars brand-new for $80 (Thank You, Competitive Cyclist!). At that time, the aluminum version of the same bar was selling for $70.

They do supposedly make a difference, but even me with my profligate spending ways ... still using AL
I haven't noticed a huge difference in feel between the AL and CF versions of the Ergosum. The CF bars look much better and for the $10 price premium they were worth it.

Despite my penchant for spending tons of money on bicycle-related gear (SRAM Red, PowerTap G3, Garmin 800, Asso FI.Mille, etc) I would not buy CF bars if I had to pay MSRP... or anything close to it.
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Old 11-06-14, 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by sstorkel
I bought my carbon 3T Ergosum handlebars brand-new for $80 (Thank You, Competitive Cyclist!). At that time, the aluminum version of the same bar was selling for $70.



I haven't noticed a huge difference in feel between the AL and CF versions of the Ergosum. The CF bars look much better and for the $10 price premium they were worth it.

Despite my penchant for spending tons of money on bicycle-related gear (SRAM Red, PowerTap G3, Garmin 800, Asso FI.Mille, etc) I would not buy CF bars if I had to pay MSRP... or anything close to it.
Believe me, I'm all about sale price. Yesterday's top-of-the-line equipment is probably still too good for me but I enjoy it.
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Old 11-07-14, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Jarrett2
I'm the usual 60/40 weight split on my road bikes. I have a torque wrench that I tighten everything down with.

A buddy just found a set for $40 on CL. I thought if I ran across some like that I might make the switch if they are safe.
That 60/40 is at the wheels. Most of the weight transfer to the front is from the frame not the bars. If you are riding on the hoods you should be able to almost let go and not change body positions. When in the drops it should be only slightly more pressure. If you are doing long rides with more pressure than that on your shoulders and arms I can't imagine you being very comfortable no matter what type of bars you are running. The only time the bars are going to break is if you fall over, crash, or incorrectly tighten them.
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Old 11-07-14, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by sstorkel
I bought my carbon 3T Ergosum handlebars brand-new for $80 (Thank You, Competitive Cyclist!). At that time, the aluminum version of the same bar was selling for $70.
truly jealous of this deal you scored and NEW!!
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Old 11-07-14, 03:41 PM
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They stand up to big heavy(well, heavy for pro/fast cyclists) sprinters, presumably they're okay with us C&A's, too.

I probably wouldn't be bothered switching bars unless I was also recabling/switching shifters or something else though. I love gear as much as the next guy, but upgrading can wait until major maintenance/rebuild intervals, thanks.
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