Crazy Cyclist

I am trying to decide which would be the better choice. I believe the specs are the same, both locks are 4.5 x 9 would I have any trouble locking to street signs or racks with the medium size lock?
I am looking to use the lock for just the front wheel as I already have a lock for the rear wheel.
which would be a better choice, the medium or standard size?
what is the quality like with the pitbull series? is it well made?

Wanderer

Onguard are decent locks. Why are you using a U lock for the front wheel? Cabling to the rear U lock might be better. MHO

What do you use for a rear lock?

Crazy Cyclist

I have QR wheels on the front, if I use a cable it wouldn't take much to snip the cable and loosen the QR lever and my wheel is gone.
For the rear wheel I use a Krytonite Series 2 ulock.

Wanderer

Can you get that U lock thru the wheel and thru the diamond of the frame? If so, you are good. Just make sure the rear is locked as well.

Crazy Cyclist

I can get the U lock thru the rear wheel, the frame and the object I am locking the bike to, it is the front wheel I am concerned about. I don't want the front wheel to go missing on me because someone cut the cable, that is why I would like to get a second U lock for the front wheel.

I would even go with a Onguard Bulldog U lock for the front wheel, depending if the lock would be good enough.

fietsbob

How about a Lock & Chain? Lock-chain combination - Locks / Bike Safety and Security

Wanderer

OnGuard are good locks.

Crazy Cyclist

That may work as well.

HvPnyrs

I feel MOST STRONGLY the O.G. "Pitbull" std/med (internal Clearance approx. 4.5 inch by just over 9 inches) would be best used IN PLACE of your "Series 2" (ie: As PRIMARY ANCHORING LOCK, Securing FRAME AND REAR WHEEL to a SOLID Anchoring Object) both for it's large internal clearances (vulnerable to mini hydraulic jack, unless void is filled with Expensive and Fragile bike parts) and also Being the STRONGER Lock (14 mm dual locking u shackle, O.G. X4P locking system, same tech used by O.G. "Brute") vs Big 'K's "Series 2" (weaker 13 mm single side locking u shackle, Big 'K's older less secure 'bent foot' system, same tech used by Big "K"s "Keeper").
Move the "Series 2" to Front Wheel security duty, as well as Secondary Anchoring Lock (when your "Spidey Sense"/paranoia starts tingling)
O.P., My apologies for not being able to give a better answer to your question. As you didn't give any specifics for the lock you are now using (is it a "Series 2" mini 5, mini 7, mini Long Shackle (mini LS), or "Series 2" Standard (internal clearance approx. 4 inches by 9 inches), Std. Long Shackle, Series 2 ATB?
I am also hobbled by not having a clue as to your bike (type, new/old, tire size, minimal/non aero frame/rims vs deep aero/Time Trial frame/wheels, fenders, Make, Model, year, picture would REALLY Help).

Oh, just to be clear, if the measurements are the same then they should be the same lock. Standard or Medium (terms are interchangeable, decided by the seller) U-locks have INSIDE SHACKLE measurements of approx. 4 to 4.5 inches wide by 8 to 9 inches tall.

Crazy Cyclist

Thanks. The Kryptonite Series 2 I am using is the standard model. I am using a mountain bike with 26" wheels and a 1.90 tire size. I have no fenders as of yet but I am thinking about adding them in the next month or so.
I have a rear rack and a pannier, which is where I keep the series 2 lock, I can probably store the pitbull in the pannier as well.

HvPnyrs

Very much appreciate the additional info.
If you will be using panniers to carry your locks, you may want to seriously consider upgrading to the OnGuard Brute Standard if your bike is worth over US $700, or would otherwise be a Particularly DEVASTATING Loss.

As with your bike, periodic maintenance/lubrication of your locks is required, particularly important to prevent a LOCK-OUT.

Be very cautious when using signposts to anchor your bike.
The Big City can be EXTREMELY UNFORGIVING of inattention and mistakes.

Crazy Cyclist

My bike isn't worth $700.00 but it would really hurt if it got stolen. What would be the best thing to lube the lock? Would lock de-icer work to lubricate the lock?

Wanderer

In the Utility industry, with a lot of locks outside for long periods, we used to dunk them in anti-freeze.

HvPnyrs

I don't have any experience with lock de-icers, freezing temps being a VERY rare occurrence here. Ditto the previous suggestion of dunking locks in Anti-Freeze.

Basically you want a light lubricating oil that contains GRAPHITE, or molybdenum (aka 'Moly') - BE SURE to use Plastic or Rubber GLOVES, as the BLACK STAIN is very difficult to get off your hands and pretty much IMPOSSIBLE to get out of clothing.
2 of 3 Bike Lock makers websites (ABUS, KRYPTONITE, and ON GUARD) RECOMMEND a light Graphite LOCK OIL to maintain their products. One website (can't remember if it was Krypto or O. G.) recommended a Teflon based oil /"Tri - Flow" ?? IIRC. The "Moly" lube was recommended by a Residential/Commercial lock maker (Schlage, I believe).

Use WD-40. *ONLY TO FLUSH OUT*, water, old lubricants, and SALT (assuming they Salt the Roads and walkways up in the Great White North, eh?). USE FRESH LOCK OIL in the keyway, a light coating of the locking bolts AND their guide tracks, PLUS, a heavier coat on the exposed metal ends of the U-shackle, PAYING PARTICULAR attention to the surfaces of detents that the locking bolts engage with.

Crazy Cyclist

Thanks. Where would I be able to find light lock oil? Is it available at hardware stores?

Wanderer

The nice thing about Moly, is that it continues to lubricate, even when dry! But it is really messy!

Crazy Cyclist

How often should I lubricate the lock?

HvPnyrs

My apologies to the O.P. for the tardiness of my response.
THE most widely available lock lube here where I live (and on Amazon) is 'LOCK EASE' made by AGS. Available at just about any Hardware or Auto Parts seller.
I'm certain that a comparable product can be found up North. Google 'lock lubrication'

Crazy Cyclist

Thanks for the reply HvPnyrs. I believe I have seen LOCK EASE up here. I will try it out. Thanks again.

HvPnyrs

Big 'K' had the most specific information on lock maintenance.
Recommending MONTHLY cleanings and relubrication in WET or HARSH conditions (pretty sure that describes your winters, possibly spring as well). Every couple months or so in more moderate climates.

The other lock makers were very vague, stressing the importance of regular maintenance and lubrication for the continued proper operation of their products. Leaving out specific schedule intervals.

Crazy Cyclist

Thanks for all of your help with the lock lubrication tips. I will be spraying some LOCK EASE into the keyhole as well as the area where the shackle locks into the crossbar ( I think that is what it is called). I will most likely do it once a month or so.

I don't ride in winter as it is usually -35 and five feet of snow.

richietables 

Picked up the medium last week and am very happy with the locking options according to its size.

Crazy Cyclist

Thanks richietables. How much room is leftover after you locked it through the wheel and the object you are locking it too?

Hangtownmatt

Crazy Cyclist,

Few things to think about:

1. Kryptonite Series 2 is at the lower end of the Kryptonite security spectrum and the rear wheel/frame is more expensive to replace than the front.
2. Two full sized u-locks are heavy and an unnecessary load for most conditions.

If I were you, and I wanted a double u-lock solution, I'd get rid of the Series 2 and get one full sized (Series 4 minimum) u-lock and one mini (Series 4 minimum). I'd use the full size to secure the frame/rear wheel to an immovable object and use the mini to secure the front wheel to the downtube. However, if finances did not permit, I'd get me a full sized Series 4 and use it to secure the frame/rear wheel to an immovable object and use the full sized Series 2 to secure the front wheel to the downtube.

For the record, I use an OG Pitbull full size. I have a cable for the front wheel but I've never used it. Mostly because I rarely have to lock my bike. I have very secure parking at work and generally take my bike into any establishment that gets my business. I try to patronize bike friendly businesses. There are exceptions though, and in those cases I either take my car or the bike is locked and within site. For me and my paranoia the full sized OG Pitbull is probably overkill. I'd probably be fine with a lighter solution.

Crazy Cyclist

Thanks Matt. What about the pitbull medium for the frame/ rear wheel and the Series 2 for the front wheel to the downtube?