Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Commuting
Reload this Page >

Soma Saga Disc Commuter Build

Notices
Commuting Bicycle commuting is easier than you think, before you know it, you'll be hooked. Learn the tips, hints, equipment, safety requirements for safely riding your bike to work.

Soma Saga Disc Commuter Build

Old 07-08-15, 07:57 PM
  #26  
BobbyG
Senior Member
 
BobbyG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 5,868

Bikes: 2015 Charge Plug, 2007 Dahon Boardwalk, 1997 Nishiki Blazer, 1984 Nishiki International, 2006 Felt F65, 1989 Dahon Getaway V

Mentioned: 54 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1335 Post(s)
Liked 1,580 Times in 779 Posts
Sweet!
BobbyG is offline  
Old 07-08-15, 08:10 PM
  #27  
MileHighMark
Old. Slow. Happy.
 
MileHighMark's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Boulder County, CO
Posts: 1,797
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by jbarham
I made a pretty radical adjustment to my seat, lowering the angle by probably 15*. Gotta say I found it more comfortable and I was able to pop right out of my seat and ride no-handed with ease. I think I may need to raise the post by a couple cm now, though. Not getting very good extension on the downstroke.
What you're saying makes complete sense. With the nose down, the rear of the saddle is higher, increasing the overall effective saddle height. When the nose comes up, the rear portion comes down, effectively reducing overall saddle height.

Take a look at the pic below. Compare the front and rear of the saddle to the bricks' lines, and you'll see that the nose and the tail are roughly the same height, leaving a "pocket" to sit in.

MileHighMark is offline  
Old 07-09-15, 04:53 AM
  #28  
Phil_gretz
Zip tie Karen
 
Phil_gretz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Fair Oaks Ranch, TX
Posts: 7,006

Bikes: '13 Motobecane Fantom29 HT, '16 Motobecane Turino Pro Disc, '18 Velobuild VB-R-022, '21 Tsunami SNM-100

Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1464 Post(s)
Liked 1,539 Times in 805 Posts
Originally Posted by jbarham
The bike has exceeded my expectations so far.
Commuters are notoriously stingy and practical folk... one thing that you didn't share was the overall cost, to include racks and sundry items. So, what was your budget and how did it wind up?
Phil_gretz is offline  
Old 07-09-15, 05:15 AM
  #29  
jbarham
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
jbarham's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 218
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I didn't approach this build with a budget in mind. I set out to put together the most practical bike for the least amount of money. I tried to select components based on durability and quality.

The overall cost was around $1700. I already owned the rack and panniers which I purchased for about $300.

I guess I'm not your typical commuter if the typical commuter only cares about getting on the nearest machine with two wheels. I do anticipate putting nearly all of my miles on this bike, though, so whether I paid $50 or $5000 is rather insignificant once the cost is spread out over a number of years.
jbarham is offline  
Old 07-09-15, 06:43 AM
  #30  
corwin1968
Senior Member
 
corwin1968's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,407
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 55 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 30 Times in 17 Posts
Originally Posted by MileHighMark
Lots of riders have their saddle too high and too far forward. The latter is often done in an attempt to correct the falling-into-the-bars feeling. Problem is, you need to move your saddle back/down to have your weight supported by your backside. Even then, many saddles require a slight nose-up angle to keep your sit bones where they need to be.
I second this. As counter-intuitive as it seems, I finally figured out that increasing the distance from saddle to handlebars actually takes weight off of your hands and makes you more comfortable. Assuming the distance was too short to start with. That's the counter-intuitive part.....it doesn't seem like closer handlebars would put more pressure on your hands...quite the opposite, but that's the way it is. I sized myself right off a bike with this discovery because the top-tube was simply too short to ride comfortably without a ridiculously long stem.
corwin1968 is offline  
Old 07-09-15, 07:48 AM
  #31  
alan s 
Senior Member
 
alan s's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 6,977
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1496 Post(s)
Liked 189 Times in 128 Posts
Originally Posted by jbarham
I didn't approach this build with a budget in mind. I set out to put together the most practical bike for the least amount of money. I tried to select components based on durability and quality.

The overall cost was around $1700. I already owned the rack and panniers which I purchased for about $300.

I guess I'm not your typical commuter if the typical commuter only cares about getting on the nearest machine with two wheels. I do anticipate putting nearly all of my miles on this bike, though, so whether I paid $50 or $5000 is rather insignificant once the cost is spread out over a number of years.
I agree with this approach. My commuter bikes get the most mileage by far, and need to be reliable, comfortable, reasonably fast and safe in all weather conditions. Plus I use my commuter bikes for the occasional tour, so a sturdy build is also important.
alan s is offline  
Old 07-09-15, 07:53 AM
  #32  
jbarham
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
jbarham's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 218
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by MileHighMark
What you're saying makes complete sense. With the nose down, the rear of the saddle is higher, increasing the overall effective saddle height. When the nose comes up, the rear portion comes down, effectively reducing overall saddle height.

Take a look at the pic below. Compare the front and rear of the saddle to the bricks' lines, and you'll see that the nose and the tail are roughly the same height, leaving a "pocket" to sit in.

Yeah I see what you're saying.

I definitely need to raise my post now.
jbarham is offline  
Old 07-09-15, 07:53 AM
  #33  
MileHighMark
Old. Slow. Happy.
 
MileHighMark's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Boulder County, CO
Posts: 1,797
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by alan s
I agree with this approach. My commuter bikes get the most mileage by far, and need to be reliable, comfortable, reasonably fast and safe in all weather conditions. Plus I use my commuter bikes for the occasional tour, so a sturdy build is also important.
Same here. I'm fortunate that I have secure/indoor bike storage at work, so I have no qualms about commuting on one of my nicer bikes.
MileHighMark is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ccuurrlleeyy
For Sale
5
11-29-20 08:21 PM
jjames1452
Classic and Vintage Bicycles: Whats it Worth? Appraisals.
2
06-17-18 08:13 PM
jbarham
General Cycling Discussion
5
07-10-15 06:44 PM
4Rings6Stars
Classic & Vintage
8
02-10-12 03:16 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2023 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.