Building a very low maintenance ultra fast super commuter
12-20-15, 04:42 PM
#76
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One issue with IGH (I have a bike with an IGH) is that if you get a flat on your rear wheel, you will have a much, much harder time fixing the flat. You have to get the wheel off and it will take a lot more work to do that, than a more standard wheel with rear derailleur. Not saying it's impossible, because there's video of somebody doing just that,
Like the TS I too wanted a Clubman type of bike. It wasn't available then, so I refurbished a 1980 Gazelle Sprinter Race with a Nexus 8 gear IGH. Cruising speed lies between 27 - 33 km/h in Summer without too much effort, and 10%-20% less in wet winters.
It's a bit over 13.5 kg, because of the saddle and the lock.
12-20-15, 05:01 PM
#78
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Dang, if I rode 20 miles (750ft elevation gain) in an hour / ten min, I'd arrive at work a sweaty mess. For me, at least, I wouldn't even bother with fenders because I'd have to shower and change anyway. Haha
12-20-15, 05:09 PM
#79
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It could be possible that some of these folks claiming to average 18-22 mph on 30-40 pound commuter bikes with 28-35 mm tires and not so tall of gearing are either smoking what we made legal here and dreaming, or just internetting grandeur.....
12-20-15, 05:13 PM
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But remember THIS BUILD will be super fast. I couldn't pedal a track bike around a circuit for an hour/10 without breaking into sheets of sweat when I stop. But I'm not an athlete either.
12-20-15, 05:19 PM
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I am not smoking whatever is popular, I am in very good shape for my age, but I have no delusions of being fast. But, I would not make some of the claims I hear even if taking my Venge down Interrurban Trail. For me, though, commuting is not a time to hurry... Some Hendrix on my IPod, and 13-14 mph seems great...
12-20-15, 05:21 PM
#82
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Anybody know if I can get fenders and a rack for my Venge? I would like to be really, really fast!
12-20-15, 08:23 PM
#83
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In August, I look out my window and break out into sheets of sweat. I sweat a good amount even at 45 degrees (F) even on a 15 minute ride, but so what people sweat. Just change clothes and good to go (actually does wonder for the mop on my head I call hair).
12-20-15, 11:50 PM
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Nonsense. Though adding a disc brake does add some trouble -- as it does on any bike.
Like the TS I too wanted a Clubman type of bike. It wasn't available then, so I refurbished a 1980 Gazelle Sprinter Race with a Nexus 8 gear IGH. Cruising speed lies between 27 - 33 km/h in Summer without too much effort, and 10%-20% less in wet winters.
It's a bit over 13.5 kg, because of the saddle and the lock.
Like the TS I too wanted a Clubman type of bike. It wasn't available then, so I refurbished a 1980 Gazelle Sprinter Race with a Nexus 8 gear IGH. Cruising speed lies between 27 - 33 km/h in Summer without too much effort, and 10%-20% less in wet winters.
It's a bit over 13.5 kg, because of the saddle and the lock.
12-30-15, 09:38 PM
#85
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For sure, sweat and a lot. I feel I'm really lucky as the best part is that after 1 hour ridding I arrive at the gym, there I park the bike(indoors), shower and go to work that's right behind the gym.
12-30-15, 09:46 PM
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I think it will be a great bike, far beyond any production weeniefied pos. Glad you are going without clunky fussbucket derailleurs. Going with 180 cranks eh, good? That's what I use and I'm 5'8. ha At least the A11 has a very good gear range, The trouble with a belt drive is very limited choice. 55/26 best or 50/24 I expect for Charles. Most important is the 7th cruise gear, 73.1 or 74.3 GI. Want low 20s, then get a Rohloff.
My Rohloff and Sturmey Archer 5w certainly will now go 4,000 miles with no tinkering, except the chain. My SA has 72.5 GI in the direct drive middle, which is fabulous for cruising at 19 mph nearing wizzout. 21/ 22 mph = lugging the motor. Shifting twice from zero to 31 mph sure beats derailleur nonsense.
..... And my bike weighs double+ than this bike.
My Rohloff and Sturmey Archer 5w certainly will now go 4,000 miles with no tinkering, except the chain. My SA has 72.5 GI in the direct drive middle, which is fabulous for cruising at 19 mph nearing wizzout. 21/ 22 mph = lugging the motor. Shifting twice from zero to 31 mph sure beats derailleur nonsense.
..... And my bike weighs double+ than this bike.
The chainring/sprocket ratio is 55/28 as I'm very limited with the Alfine Di2 , only one option of sprocket 28T and for chainring I can only use 55T or 50T so I build the bike around 55T.
I've researched a lot on Rohloff but I wanted Hydraulic brakes with dropper bars without hacks and alfine di2 came together. Rohloff with Gebla Rohbox perhaps was the closet alternative but it seemed to be a lot more money so I decided to try Alfine Di2 first and that should suffice, if not rohloff would be the only other option. I tried a regular Alfine 11 bike and felt very good, so Di2 should be even better
12-31-15, 07:56 PM
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Looking forward to seeing the bike.
Not sure why people are harping on weight so much, it actually isn't a big deal.
But with the money you're spending, you might as well get some aero wheels, while you're at it. The shallow side of them(say, flo30), aren't any more expensive than your average aluminum rim(seeing as how they are an aluminum rim). You know, to save an entire minute on your commute each way.
12-31-15, 08:27 PM
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Fixing a flat with a belt drive is a pain. To get the wheel back into vertical dropouts, you need to loosen the eccentric on the BB to get some slack. Then after getting the wheel back in the dropouts, you need to re tension the belt with either a "clik" type tension gauge or something more expensive. You need to carry the tension tool and a wrench to loosen the BB adjustment. A chain is better and does not need a special frame that comes apart to get the belt on and off. The belt is not truly good for a commuter who could get a flat. Also the belt takes more work to spin around the cogs and rings.
01-01-16, 10:48 PM
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Fixing a flat with a belt drive is a pain. To get the wheel back into vertical dropouts, you need to loosen the eccentric on the BB to get some slack. Then after getting the wheel back in the dropouts, you need to re tension the belt with either a "clik" type tension gauge or something more expensive. You need to carry the tension tool and a wrench to loosen the BB adjustment. A chain is better and does not need a special frame that comes apart to get the belt on and off. The belt is not truly good for a commuter who could get a flat. Also the belt takes more work to spin around the cogs and rings.
To overcome this issue I run tubeless tires with a bit of sealant. During this year 2500 miles, I had two major flats. One I resolved by refilling with CO2 twice to get home. The other my tire was cut so badly that it was beyond repair and I had to walk home. I had to completely replace the tire as it had a 1 inch cut. I probably had other small cuts, however they become invisible with tubeless sealant. I just add a bit of air and it keeps moving.
So none of my flats got resolved by adding a tube even-though I always carry 1 tube and 2 co2 ony my current chain bike.
If problems like that happen once a year, I don't see a need to carry all this extra tools. I can walk to the next bike shop to get a new tire, call wife or a friend for rescue.
It's like in a car, radiator can leak, belts can break, battery can get depleted but we manage to get things resolved without carrying a huge tool box. Unless the user is crossing a desert everyday with not cell phone coverage, in this case other measurements would be required.
01-03-16, 09:30 AM
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You have a very good point and I agree that this might be more harm than good if this type of issue is not mitigated.
To overcome this issue I run tubeless tires with a bit of sealant. During this year 2500 miles, I had two major flats. One I resolved by refilling with CO2 twice to get home. The other my tire was cut so badly that it was beyond repair and I had to walk home. I had to completely replace the tire as it had a 1 inch cut. I probably had other small cuts, however they become invisible with tubeless sealant. I just add a bit of air and it keeps moving.
So none of my flats got resolved by adding a tube even-though I always carry 1 tube and 2 co2 ony my current chain bike.
If problems like that happen once a year, I don't see a need to carry all this extra tools. I can walk to the next bike shop to get a new tire, call wife or a friend for rescue.
It's like in a car, radiator can leak, belts can break, battery can get depleted but we manage to get things resolved without carrying a huge tool box. Unless the user is crossing a desert everyday with not cell phone coverage, in this case other measurements would be required.
To overcome this issue I run tubeless tires with a bit of sealant. During this year 2500 miles, I had two major flats. One I resolved by refilling with CO2 twice to get home. The other my tire was cut so badly that it was beyond repair and I had to walk home. I had to completely replace the tire as it had a 1 inch cut. I probably had other small cuts, however they become invisible with tubeless sealant. I just add a bit of air and it keeps moving.
So none of my flats got resolved by adding a tube even-though I always carry 1 tube and 2 co2 ony my current chain bike.
If problems like that happen once a year, I don't see a need to carry all this extra tools. I can walk to the next bike shop to get a new tire, call wife or a friend for rescue.
It's like in a car, radiator can leak, belts can break, battery can get depleted but we manage to get things resolved without carrying a huge tool box. Unless the user is crossing a desert everyday with not cell phone coverage, in this case other measurements would be required.
03-07-16, 09:10 AM
#92
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Looks awesome. Alfine Di2 right? So the left brake lever has a shifter that's just not connected to anything?
03-07-16, 10:51 PM
#94
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Nice job. You put a lot of thought into this build, and the results show. I'll be interested to see how you like the drivetrain.
03-08-16, 09:03 AM
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03-08-16, 09:08 AM
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So far I only have 50 miles on it and I'm very happy. The bike is extremely quiet and I love it. I've to mitigate a shhhh noise that I don't know where is coming from yet, but it does not bother much, it's just that is so quiet and any little thing you will hear.
Gears work great. I've other bike with Ultegra and other with XX1 and this is perfect for my road riding commute, very low maintenance, fenders and still fast.
Have no issues shifting even with some load, I can shift with no problems with cadence around 85, if I get out of the saddle and hammer than it does not do it, but as soon as I unload the pedal it goes into the gear I wanted.
Also the Di2 shift indicator helps.
Gears work great. I've other bike with Ultegra and other with XX1 and this is perfect for my road riding commute, very low maintenance, fenders and still fast.
Have no issues shifting even with some load, I can shift with no problems with cadence around 85, if I get out of the saddle and hammer than it does not do it, but as soon as I unload the pedal it goes into the gear I wanted.
Also the Di2 shift indicator helps.
03-08-16, 09:26 AM
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Thank you guys for the compliments. It was a lot of work but I'm glad it turned to be a great bike. I will post updated on 100 mile, 500 and 1000 miles.
03-08-16, 11:42 AM
#98
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Beautiful!
03-08-16, 12:07 PM
#99
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Probably a tiny bit of disc brake rub, possibly only when the frame flexes a little under a rider's weight.
03-08-16, 12:18 PM
#100
Banned
Disc Brakes
Fenders (must have)
Internal Gear Hub
Drop bars (must have)
though you can use V brake drop bar levers too and then even Brake the shoe to drum adjustment is not that fussy..
the actuating arm turning the cam that spreads the Brake shoes has a lot if leverage.
