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-   -   Saddle Comfort (https://www.bikeforums.net/commuting/1070562-saddle-comfort.html)

Darth Lefty 07-06-16 11:56 AM

I think it's probably a 20 year old bike. There are no photos on Bikepedia but the overall look matches this description
1995 Nishiki Sport - BikePedia

It's not a fancy bike but it's definitely not junk, either. A good middle-of-the-road model, perfect for a commuter. It cost $300 then and a similar bike would cost $500-650 today, and might not be any better, really, except it's not 20yo :-D

FrankJ 07-06-16 12:00 PM


Originally Posted by Darth Lefty (Post 18893176)
I think it's probably a 20 year old bike. There are no photos on Bikepedia but the overall look matches this description
1995 Nishiki Sport - BikePedia

It's not a fancy bike but it's definitely not junk, either. A good middle-of-the-road model, perfect for a commuter. It cost $300 then and a similar bike would cost $500-650 today, and might not be any better, really, except it's not 20yo :-D

Cool, thanks! This is good to know. Not as old as I thought. I just wish it wasn't as big. It fit my buddy, but he's 6 feet tall and I'm 5'9".

FrankJ 07-06-16 12:07 PM


Originally Posted by Darth Lefty (Post 18893176)
I think it's probably a 20 year old bike. There are no photos on Bikepedia but the overall look matches this description
1995 Nishiki Sport - BikePedia

It's not a fancy bike but it's definitely not junk, either. A good middle-of-the-road model, perfect for a commuter. It cost $300 then and a similar bike would cost $500-650 today, and might not be any better, really, except it's not 20yo :-D

Yep, sure looks like this:

https://knowyourbike.com/nishiki/sport

Doohickie: My 1994 Nishiki Sport XRS

noglider 07-06-16 01:09 PM

When you remove the seat cover, you will probably need to raise the saddle, since the cover is so thick.

The bike may be a bit big but really, it's not that big for you. Replace the stem with something that has less rise. You may want less reach (forward) or more or the same amount. It's hard to predict what's best for you.

My favorite article on fitting a bike is this one, and it uses an approach that is different from most. It doesn't use measurements. It uses how you feel after you make each adjustment. It seems very intelligent to me.

FrankJ 07-06-16 06:56 PM


Originally Posted by ptempel (Post 18893059)
You can try removing the plug to see if it has a bolt under it (it should). Only drawback with that stem is that it looks like you will only be able to lower it a cm or so. You might want to go to your local bike shop (LBS) and ask them to try another stem. While you're at it, you could have them help set your seat height, and position (fore, aft and tilt).

Edit: I also agree with the others to lose the gel pad. Just use the seat as-is and get another down the road if this one still causes discomfort. But you'll only know after dialing in your position like you're doing and putting in some miles.

Thank you.

I have removed the gel pad. I also removed the black plastic plug and there was a hex bolt. It was hard to loosen, but I was able to do it with a wrench turning the Allen wrench to get leverage. I could only drop the tube down an inch before it bottomed out, so not sure that will make enough difference (probably not). I do think I am sitting upright too much.

Now I know why the racers use smaller frames and keep their saddles up so high - so the handlebars can be kept low for aerodynamic positioning...?

GeneO 07-06-16 07:23 PM

Yep.

ptempel 07-07-16 08:12 AM


Originally Posted by FrankJ (Post 18894341)
Thank you.

I have removed the gel pad. I also removed the black plastic plug and there was a hex bolt. It was hard to loosen, but I was able to do it with a wrench turning the Allen wrench to get leverage. I could only drop the tube down an inch before it bottomed out, so not sure that will make enough difference (probably not). I do think I am sitting upright too much.

Now I know why the racers use smaller frames and keep their saddles up so high - so the handlebars can be kept low for aerodynamic positioning...?

Glad to hear it. Keep at it and try the LBS. Yes, most road bikers have some drop from saddle to stem. The pros have a lot of drop. You need to be in shape and fairly flexable to do that. Most folks don't need that kind of drop or are uncomfortable in that position. Just select the stem that feels right for you.

FrankJ 07-07-16 11:43 AM


Originally Posted by ptempel (Post 18895151)
You need to be in shape and fairly flexable to do that.

Well that rules me out. :p

So far the no-gel-pad has been working out ok (and the saddle doesn't look dorky any more) but I still find myself having to slide back periodically. It's not tilting forward and the adjustment doesn't seem to allow for further tilt.

I've lowered the handlebars as much as I can, but the design still has a distinct rise.

I think I've raised the seat as much as I can without making my leg extend fully on the downstroke.

Here's the current pic:

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-...CjVv2mJ-XL.jpg

Leisesturm 07-07-16 01:00 PM


Originally Posted by FrankJ (Post 18895781)
Well that rules me out. :p

So far the no-gel-pad has been working out ok (and the saddle doesn't look dorky any more) but I still find myself having to slide back periodically. It's not tilting forward and the adjustment doesn't seem to allow for further tilt.

I've lowered the handlebars as much as I can, but the design still has a distinct rise.

I think I've raised the seat as much as I can without making my leg extend fully on the downstroke.

Here's the current pic:

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-...CjVv2mJ-XL.jpg

If your fingers are only making it to the stem height adjustment bolt then the reach to the bars themselves is bound to be excessive. You are unconsciously pulling yourself towards the bars to releive the stretch in your shoulders. This makes you slide towards the front of your saddle. Tilting the saddle nose up can help hold you in place but it has its limits. You already know the bike is too big. Bicyles are like pianos: there are more of them around than there will ever be people to ride (play) them. You got a bike for free already. See how easy that was? Getting one that actually fits will take more effort and maybe a bit of money. It should not require a lot of money, however. Unless you want it to. For as little as $30 you can have a properly fitting bike from a bike co-op or garage sale. For $100 you can get a perfectly serviceable BSO (bicycle shaped object) from the Big Box Store of your choice. For $200 - $300+ you can get a bike you can be proud of from a number of local bike stores in your town. I would avoid Craigslist personally, there are bargains there, but it takes some experience to know what is treasure and what is trash. Btw. The pic didn't make it.

FrankJ 07-07-16 01:13 PM


Originally Posted by Leisesturm (Post 18896015)
If your fingers are only making it to the stem height adjustment bolt then the reach to the bars themselves is bound to be excessive. You are unconsciously pulling yourself towards the bars to releive the stretch in your shoulders. This makes you slide towards the front of your saddle. Tilting the saddle nose up can help hold you in place but it has its limits. You already know the bike is too big.

Thanks again.

Money is not a big issue, thankfully. I can buy a new bike; I just wanted to see if I could continue to use the gifted one. I did attach a new bike computer, got a tune up and a new chain, but it wasn't that much invested.

Now that I seem to be pretty committed to being a regular commuter, I can justify the purchase. I think I'll ride this for a while until I decide to get a present for myself.

I'll have to see why the pic is not coming thru; the first ones did...hmmm...

Korina 07-07-16 03:39 PM


Originally Posted by FrankJ (Post 18892990)
So one question is does it matter how tall the bike frame is if you get proper leg extension on the pedal strokes?

Yes. Not only does the frame size affect the length of the top tube (i.e. your reach), but in an emergency stop, would you rather have 1/2" of space between the bike and your Precious, or 1 or 2"? ;)

FrankJ 07-07-16 03:46 PM


Originally Posted by Korina (Post 18896424)
Yes. Not only does the frame size affect the length of the top tube (i.e. your reach), but in an emergency stop, would you rather have 1/2" of space between the bike and your Precious, or 1 or 2"? ;)

Now, you've got a point there and it got my attention :D

I'm convinced this 21" is just too big - I should have a 17" or 19" sounds like. The previous owner was over 6' tall, and I'm 5'9" so if I'm commuting 13 miles 5 days a week I should have a better fitting bike.

Will be shopping at some point...

Thanks for the input! It's all very much appreciated. Learning a lot...

Korina 07-07-16 04:37 PM

Glad I could help. :)

FrankJ 07-08-16 12:26 PM

Ok, I slid the saddle forward as much as I could (only an inch or two) and now my arms have a little bend in them and after one ride I felt like I wasn't sliding forward as much, and today my tailbone is not hurting so I think all your input has really helped!

The bike is big for me so I'm starting to look at a new one. The Jamis Coda Sport (or Comp) looks really good...

ptempel 07-08-16 01:03 PM


Originally Posted by FrankJ (Post 18898277)
Ok, I slid the saddle forward as much as I could (only an inch or two) and now my arms have a little bend in them and after one ride I felt like I wasn't sliding forward as much, and today my tailbone is not hurting so I think all your input has really helped!

The bike is big for me so I'm starting to look at a new one. The Jamis Coda Sport (or Comp) looks really good...

The Jamis looks good:

http://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/assets...dasport_sl.jpg

Leave yourself open to other options that the local shops will have in stock. Definately try to test ride them. Also ask if a basic fit woould be included if you purchase the bike from them.


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