Linchpin

Bah, humbug

-=(8)=-

I was in your exact position 2 weeks ago........
I decided on a Surly Cross-Check because of its steel
frame and heavy duty rims. Steel is supposedly more comfortable
than Ti, Alu and that stuff and I believe it is too.
Others here know waaaay more about it than I do but I can offer
one suggestion....The backpack idea will prove to be painful !
Try to get even a cheepo rack or combination of huge seat pack/
handlebar bag. From the heat generated on your back to the weight
they will add unnecassary hardship to your ride.

spine of hortus

well i may not be a pro commuter but if i were you id look at convertin a mtb into a sort utilitarian bike im 6 foot 6 and around 250 lbs so i know that the difrence between a 5 lb and a 15 lb frame is almost nothing. althoguh i havent used the exspensive bikes id assume theres not a ton of diffrence.

i am about to get a bunch of beaters and try to build a utilitarian bike like the "trek t80" its about 600 dollars out of my price range being almost 700 dollars. i make it to work just fine on my 100 dollar mtn bike but i want to make it a little more comfortable for me to carry stuff on. and just rinde in general

oh almost forgot the most important thing
get a mtn bike but put slicks on it for tires the nubbies will sap your energy

gibbain

I can't comment on either of those bikes, but I was in your position 8 years ago. I was 275 and decided I was going to commute every day instead of buy a second car. I bought a Trek 1220 which was about $800. I didnt feel too bad about spending that much because it was a lot less than a car. I finally retired that bike in January with about 32,000 miles on it. It was very reliable and held up very well. I have a Bianchi Volpe now, which was also around $800. Its been good so far, but the rear wheel it came with was defective and kept popping spokes. I was without a bike for about 3 weeks given all the repairs, but they made it up to me by giving me a better wheel at no charge. Good luck with your commute.

Eggplant Jeff

You didn't mention how far your commute is. The shorter the commute, the less gain you'll get out of a road bike vs a mountain bike (vs anything really, if you've got a short commute you can ride anything no problem).

The number of spokes affects how strong the wheel is in regards to how much weight it can carry. That's why the guy told you get a wheel with more spokes.

Mountain bike wheels are generally meant to take a lot more abuse than road bike wheels so they'll probably hold up better.

I got a Giant Cypress, which is sort of a mountain bike hybrid. It's got somewhat narrower wheels and tires without nubs, but it has a suspension and is generally more like a mountain bike. It's held up well so far (200 miles about) and I've gone over lots of curbs, gravel, etc (I'm only about 205lbs though). My commute is 5 miles each way and it doesn't take too much energy. I could definitely tell the difference when I rode the Jamis Coda (a road bike with flat handlebars) though, the Coda was WAY faster than the Cypress. But it also rode harsher (not as much suspension) and probably wouldn't stand quite as much abuse.

BTW I would second the idea of buying a cheap rack and bags for it. I think you could get a decent rack and at least one large bag for under $50 in the store near me, the bag would be large enough to fit a backpack. Your back gets pretty sweaty even without carrying stuff on it.

gibbain

Oh, and I would have to second what other people are saying about a rack and panniers instead of a backpack. Makes a big difference.

pj7

I work with this guy, though I can't help him in picking a bike that much since all I know about is the bike I ride, and have benn to hell and back with it in keeping my wheels round. I already told him I'd loan him a rack and and a few other things to help him out at first, and have already explained the woes of using a backpack. He just needs help in getting a bike.
Funny how he said I wouldn't shut up about how much I enjoy bike commuting, which is true, glad to see him post here, though I wish that I were more help to him.

BraveSpear

I too am a big guy. I stand 6'6" and weight appx 250 lbs (started at 330 lbs in Mar '04 and have lost appx 80 lbs since then from commuting). I wore out my 96 Schwinn Frontier GS crankset and
I recently purchased (for $230) a 2004 Gary Fisher Advance mountain bike to replace it . I ride a 20 mile round trip commute. It has been a very good bike, no problems with the rims/spokes yet.
The Gary Fisher bikes come with the Bontrager wheels, and from everything I know about wheels, they are definitely good tires. Had a pinch flat last week, but got a new tube with tube slime to take care of the problem.

BraveSpear

Nice job. I've been commuting for over a year now and I have someone else stoked up to start commuting a few days per week. Says he will start being a part-time commuter on Bike-to-Work day. Good for him!

billh

One downside of the rack and pannier setup is that when you hit a pothole or need to go up or down a curb, they might come off and the straps and hooks get caught up in your gears or spokes. I had this happen once too often and switched to a pack designed for cyclists, eg. Vaude. As long as you keep it lightweight, it works fine.

Marylandnewbie

Linchpin, I can't say much about the two bikes you've mentioned other than to say they show up on these forums frequently. I think we are in the same weight range and I ride a Fuji Supreme which is a hybrid with some of the gearing of a moutain bike but skinnier tires (700c x 35) without nubs. I like the bike and found it very comfortable right from the start. It also runs about $350 so it is an inexpensive way to get started. I have ridden road bike types in the past and I must say I like the more upright position of the hybrids when riding through traffic, etc. That's just a personal preference, there are many commuters who handle a ton of traffic on road bikes.

Rear wheels will likely be the biggest headache on any bike unless they are very sturdy. After breaking 3 spokes in 2 weeks and numerous flats I had to upgrade my rear wheel. I now have a double walled rim with 36 spokes. The spokes are also heavier gauge than stock (I'm at work so I don't have all the specs with me). I believe the new wheel built to sturdier specs cost me about $140 -- not cheap but better than replacing spokes on a regular basis. I think it is well worth the investment to either buy a bike with sturdier wheels at the outset or replace your rear wheel. To that end I have seen people suggest going with a 26in. wheel rather than the 700c, since you have access to sturdier wheels meant for mountain bikes at a lower cost than 700s. I have not checked that assertion out in detail, but it makes sense to me. You will certainly want road type tires, not the knobby mountain bike tires since the rolling resistance will be much less.

And I second the idea of using a rack. Most of us bigger bikers probably sweat more on a warm day and a backpack will trap all that extra heat, additionally it can make your back sore depending upon your riding position and what you're used to. Good luck and let us know when you start commuting -- we're always interested in hearing other people's experiences.

pj7

The definition of irony here.
I started about 2 or 3 months ago as a 330lb guy wanting to get down to about 250 and have been looking at the GF bikes lately for my 25 miles round trip commutes.

ridealot

Try the Gary Fishers. I commute on a 2005 Gary Fisher Nirvana S for 25 miles per day (round trip). I am not as big as you, but I have been very happy with it so far. It came with WTB wheels and Bontrager tires. I swapped out those tires for some Specialized Infinity tires. I paid $499 for mine. The model S version comes with Rock Shox Metro front shock fork. https://www.fisherbikes.com/bikes/bik...bike=Nirvana_S

Good luck on the commute when you start!

madhouse

Everyone has there own preference for what is the best bike for commuting. It really breaks down to your preferences; unfortunately as a newbie you haven't developed preferences.

Some things to consider and try out:

Flat handlebar bikes offer very few hand positions which is crucial for some and not others. My guess, based on your stature and the weight your hands will carry, you will want multiple hand positions. Bar ends can help with this but still don’t offer the variety of positions a drop bar will.

Flat handlebars do not offer the ability to drop into a more aero position to get out of a headwind.

Bikes with flat handlebars are typically set up for a more upright riding position which is a more comfortable, but less efficient position.

Suspension on commuters is added weight for little to no gain (in my opinion).

If you go with the mountain bike I strongly recommend running high pressure slicks.

Bike options that include drop handlebars: Cyclocross bikes are built more sturdily than road bikes but man to offer the braze ons for racks or fenders. Touring bikes are designed to carry additional weight and are a good option for commuting.

As far as the Iguana goes; yes it is a very adequate bike for commuting.

These are just my opinions and observations others may differ. If you haven’t yet, read through the “Advice for new Commuters” thread for more advice.

Good luck and happy commuting.

mr_tom

Couple of things:

* If you've not ridden in a while, it's good to buy a cheap beater or borrow/hire a bike. That way you'll get to find out a bit about your style - and from there, work out which bike will fit you best.

* The Iguana looks like a fine bike, but there are a couple of things that I'd change if I were using it for commuting only:
- The tyres are huge. 28mm or thereabouts is a good commuter width. Much wider than that will just slow you down.
- Mudguards are good additions.
- Suspension's only really necessary if you're going down trails or off kerbs. A bumspring seatpost will do you more favours than a suspension fork.

I wouldn't worry about 32/36 spoke wheels. As long as you're not jumping off ramps and bunnyhopping kerbs, it shouldn't make too much difference.

Oh - and don't forget to set aside some money for accessories. They add up! (Lock, lights, shoes, clothes, &c.)

BraveSpear

Give it a while. The pounds and inches will start falling off. I started riding in Mar '04 and by Dec '04 I had to buy a new wardrobe (really should have done it 3 months earlier because all my other clothes were hanging *very* loose -- still have some old shorts that used to be tight on me when I wore them; now I wear them to due work around the house/yard and have to tighten my belt otherwise they fall right off!!)

Now 5 months later I'm getting to the point of thinking about changing my wardrobe again! Now, I'm still not exactly *thin*, but I'm not the walking heart-attack that I used to be. Still have about 35 pounds to lose..

jnbacon

As far as wheels go, the brand of bicycle you buy won't determine whether they are good; it is how they are built. The wheels need to be built properly, meaning that the tension of the spokes should be correct and even, and the spokes stress relieved. Wheels on new bikes are often built by a machine, and a good LBS will check and adjust the wheels before sending them out the door. If your friend purchased his bike and replacement wheels at the same store, the problem may not be the bike but the bike store and their ability to build a decent wheel.

Generally, a well-built, 32/36-spoke wheel should be able to handle loads of over 800 pounds. That weight is not only the bicycle, rider, and gear, but also the effect of going over bumps. So, if the entire load on the wheels of your bike is 350 pounds, general city riding (no repeated large potholes, curb jumping, and other high impact stuff) shouldn't be a problem. That said, you shouldn't expect the wheel to just stay perfect. Take it into the LBS periodically and have them check the spoke tension and make adjustments.

sbhikes

I had a pannier that fell off frequently, getting stuck in my spokes each time. My solution was to get out a drill and some U shaped bolts. I bolted that sucker on to the rack. Now it won't fall off or come off so now I don't have to worry about thieves, either.

Cyclist0383

I had this happen on a regular basis until I switched to an Arkel pannier. Their hook system is fantastic. It has a sliding bracket that insures that your pannier will never fall off. They also sell the hook kit to retrofit your existing pannier.

Here's how the Arkel system works.

https://www.arkel-od.com/tips/installing.asp?fl=1&site=

jagged

20 or 30 pounds seems like a lot! You should not need to be carrying that much. Whatever it is that is weighing that much, consider leaving it at work (or buying two, one for work and one for home).

As to your bike choice, I can't improve on what's been said above, but I do recommend you try a touring bike. They are designed to carry heavy loads.

jnbacon

I use Lone Peak panniers. They have locks as well, though a different kind.



Wayne at https://www.thetouringstore.com/index.htm sells their panniers for a decent price, and I believe you can purchase the hooks separately as well.

pj7

Well, the guy keeps coming in here asking me if there are any new posts so I'm letting him read them from time to time. He works in the shop, I work in the office (lucky me)
He wanted me to ask specifically, will the Giant Iguana do the trick? He is comfortable on a mountain bike and likes the way it feels, but I guess I have him concerned about the spokes since I had trouble with my wheels. But on the other hand, I have 700c wheels on my bike and the Iguana is a 26 incher.

MichaelW

Rather than advise on a specific bike I can tell you what you need in a medium distance commuting bike.
Clearance at the frame for medium road tyres (700c x 28 or 26" x 1.5). Be generous with the clearance. A 700cx32mm is a bit wider an more comfortable, you really dont need any wider and can always chose a narrower tyre.
Hand tweaked wheels. The bike shop should tune the spoke tension. 36 spokes are preferable or big guys.
Threaded eyelets on the frame for rack and fenders.
Gears which give a good spread of ratios for your conditions. A medium size triple chainset (30/40/50 teeth or thereabouts) will suits most road conditions.

The debate over straight vs drop handlebars is irrelevant over 7 miles.
Frame material is not really significant over this distance. Both Al and decent quality steel will ride well.
Suspension is extra weight and maintenenace and not needed. A good steel fork is comfortable and can take threaded fender eyelets.
Wheel size (700c vs 26"MTB) is again not so important when using appropriate and equivelent tyres. More important is the build quality.

Definately use a rack and pannier bag. Modern quick-release clip-on systems are quick and secure and will not bounce off. If people are still using 1970s style bouncy fittings, that is their problem.

My idea of the (nearly) perfect commuter is something like a Jamis Aurora or a Specialized Sirrus. Add on some SKS fenders and a Blackburn rack.
When you are condering the cost, figure out your current commuting cost + the cost of keeping fit, amortized over 5 years.