banerjek

No matter how great your lock is, it protects the frame and a wheel at best. The rest can be easily stripped.

ColonelSanders

Hexlox is your friend.

emptym

Great picture. Assuming one is using Hexlox or something similar to protect one's components, is it better to use one Kryptonite NY Fahgettaboutit Mini or two Kryptonite Evolution Minis?

The two Evolutions would be lighter than the one Fahgettaboutit, but would take more time to lock and be a bit unwieldy.

ColonelSanders

One Fahgettaboutit.


The Evolutions can be cut by a bolt cutter, the Fahgettaboutit can't be.

emptym

Ah, I didn't realize that about the Evolutions. Thanks! That settles that.

fixedweasel

I'm going to slightly disagree with this. I lock my commuter exactly like that picture above with 2 U-Locks and then on top of that, weave a thick 6' cable lock between both wheels, the frame and the actual bolted down bike stand. This way my frame is locked 3 times and each wheel twice. Now as far as stripping parts off the bike, I use tubular glue and place a ball bearing inside all appropriate allen bolts. Now, someone has to work really hard to get the ball bearing out to even get an allen wrench in there. My set up is already complete and everything torqued proper, so no need to keep these allens open. I've been commuting here in Chicago year round for the last 15 years and my bike sits outside for over 14 hours at a time. I have never had a part stolen.

DiabloScott

One U-lock with combo on the back (nice to have if I forget my keys)
One U-lock with flat key on the front
One 5/8" cable secured with a mini U-lock through both wheels.
One abandoned U-lock that's been there for years.
Hardly ever any other bikes locked here so I can leave the locks at work.
Some @ss stole my seat pack once, so I switched to a trunk bag and take that in with me.

banerjek

This will certainly work.

By my perspective, methods that prove effective in urban areas (riding a piece of junk protected by a locking system that's better than the bike or weighing your bike down with a ton of steel and making it a pain to maintain) take a lot of the joy out of cycling.

Though if you park in the same places, you can leave locks so you don't have to carry them everywhere.

SJX426 

Got a Fahgettaboutit and leave it at work. Thinking that the weight difference with a folder is small to consider taking the folder with me instead of locking up.

fixedweasel

I agree, you can't run more urban than the streets of Chicago albeit my bike is not weighed down nor a piece of junk. I run a steel fixed* with a wheelset I built up with Phil Woods and Mavic Open Pro's. Conti Gators, a Sugino 75 track chainset and BB, carbon seatpin with an Aspide saddle, Cascadia mudguards. No cheap bike there, but.....there's always a but, my bike looks like crap. Never washed, stickers(ed) from head to toe, flipped and chopped bars with torn bar tape. It weighs about 20 pounds. not heavy but oozing with quality. I enjoy riding it terribly. I already have to carry my clothes, tools, tubes, meals, etc, so having an extra U-lock aboard is not a worry that my spine cannot handle. I don't drop my locks at the pole 'cause I use my bike like a car. I travel through the city on my days off as well and need my locks to remain on my person. You can have your cake and a nibble too.





*so little/no maintenance as well

bugly64

I like a u-lock for the frame combined with a noose hardened steel chain.

thms

Currently I' using method #3 from the left - only sometimes #4.

So it seems I'm doing it wrong but I can't see why #2 is better than #3 and 4.

Can someone enlighten me please?

BikeLite

A ulock is best to go through a triangle. Number 3 is only through the front wheel. If quick release wheel, just slip the bike off and go in two seconds. Your wheel will be safe though ; ).

acidfast7

#4 allows access for angle grinders and bolt/lock cutters. #2 doesn't really allow for that without cutting the frame or it's much slower.

Bike Gremlin

6500 has better locking mechanism, stronger plates and stogner rivets holding it together.

My 2 cents on bicycle locks:

https://www.bike.bikegremlin.com/2015...bicycle-locks/

And on locking "technigues":
https://www.bike.bikegremlin.com/2015...ing-a-bicycle/

thms

It seems I didn't look close enough at #3. My lock also goes around the down tube when going through the front wheel.

rm -rf

Other attacks:

Cheaper Ulocks can be broken with a long pry bar (maybe 5-6 feet long). With the end through the loop, a few very hard pulls can twist a "U" end right out of the locking bar. I assume this always trashes the bike frame where the lock is attached, though.

As other posts mentioned, even thick cables can be snipped a few strands at a time by a good diagonal cutter, small enough to fit in a pocket.

~~~
lock picking lawyer channel
This guy does lock picking videos. I don't think a bike thief will pick locks, it takes too long.
But now he's also using a Ramset concrete nail gun, which uses a 22 blank cartridge to push a nail into concrete. Hitting the lock at the right point breaks it instantly.

It appears each lock mechanism needs a different attack point, so this seems unlikely to be used much. Perhaps by pro thieves -- just one bang noise and you are gone. (Another reason to use two locks!)

For example: against the "world's toughest motorcycle lock", jump to the actual lock breaking. On youtube.

Or, using a "nut splitter" on a linked lock. Quite fast, quiet, and small sized tools. Video link.

acidfast7

just like everything in life ... you don't need to be the best just good enough to not get attacked.

ussprinceton

I use a cable lock that are around 6ft long. The area where I park my bike isn't high in crime though