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Commuting tubeless

Old 08-06-17, 01:33 PM
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I went to finally try it, mix a batch of WSS and my latex that I bought in 2015 was like cream cheese silly putty maybe soon
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Old 08-07-17, 12:15 PM
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Like most innovations, the tubeless conversion seems targeted at competition. The selection of tires available turned me off. I have used Stan's sealant in my tubes this year. I've had 5 punctures and only one flat. The four times they didn't go flat, the tires lost enough air to get squishy. I removed whatever was in the tire, pumped them up and went on my way. The one that went flat was penetrated by something through the center tread and kevlar belt of a Schwalbe Big Ben tire, went through the optional anti-puncture I had put in and left a hole in the tube that Stan's would not seal. I still carry a tube. The sealant seems to be a nice convenience, 4 out of 5 is not a bad run at this point.

Marc
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Old 08-08-17, 08:19 AM
  #53  
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I agree there's still a gap in the overall lineup at commuter tire level, unless you want to buy a Marathon Supreme; and probably at smaller wheel sizes. But in MTB it's at all levels now except the bottom; and you don't have to use a tubeless-specific tire at big width, though it makes things better.
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Old 08-08-17, 08:26 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Framebuilders View Post
Tubeless is AWESOME. But some nails and pieces of glass are just too big... but for the most part anything a tube will survive with a patch would have been sealed by a tubeless setup.
Don't pull it out then. I had a Slime filled tube once and had a huge nail in it for days before I realized I had a hole in the tire (the slow leak was my clue).

leave a bigger object in the tread, and I can ride home. Pull it out, and my tire is going to go flat.
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Old 08-08-17, 08:30 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by Darth Lefty View Post
I agree there's still a gap in the overall lineup at commuter tire level, unless you want to buy a Marathon Supreme; and probably at smaller wheel sizes. But in MTB it's at all levels now except the bottom; and you don't have to use a tubeless-specific tire at big width, though it makes things better.
IMHO, anything below 32mm may be better off with a tube. Specifically, anything than needs more than 60psi. Tires do blow off of rims, and at 120psi any hole is going to spew out a lot of sealant and air before it seals up. Smaller tires can't afford to lose much volume of air.

You should be able to find anything you need in Schwalbe's line of tires, and there is a decent set of smooth tread gravel tires that make great commuter tires from companies like Panaracer and Hutchinson.

So yeah, nothing by Continental or Michelin (road oriented) - but there are plenty of alternatives.
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Old 08-08-17, 08:45 AM
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Stan's conversion kits all suggest a limit of 40. It does seem like a risk to go to road bike sizes and pressures without both a tubeless rim and tire. I've been keeping an eye out for stuff in the 35-37-42 sizes. So far it seems like the Supreme is it.
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Old 08-08-17, 10:24 PM
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I rode IRC tubeless tires on H Plus Son Archetype rims, albeit ghetto style, and I never refreshed the Stans in them and I rode for over a year accumulating some 3500 miles. I had a lot of punctures from goatheads, but no flats. I wore the tires right down to nothing and replaced them with Schwalbe Pro Ones. The Schwalbe's went flat twice in less than 150 miles. I now have a new set of IRC's on my ride and hoping for a lot more flat free commuting. Two of my bikes have tubeless and I carry a tube and CO2 with me every ride.
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Old 08-09-17, 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Darth Lefty View Post
Stan's conversion kits all suggest a limit of 40. It does seem like a risk to go to road bike sizes and pressures without both a tubeless rim and tire. I've been keeping an eye out for stuff in the 35-37-42 sizes. So far it seems like the Supreme is it.
That is because they are designed to work with non tubeless tires, and to finagle that they slightly increase the rim diameter to reduce blow offs.

Still, a lot of tubeless rims have pressure limits much lower than the standard road bike clincher rim.
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Old 08-10-17, 09:29 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by chas58 View Post
Still, a lot of tubeless rims have pressure limits much lower than the standard road bike clincher rim.
And road tubeless has less excuse for jacked pressures than clinchers since no pinch flats. I run 28s at 80-85 actually that is about the same as I run 28mm clinchers.

I did have a blowoff last spring and it was really bad but I blame my installation not the tire/rim/pressure combo. When I put a new tire on the rim this summer I didn't scrimp on a) air pressure seating the bead (took it to gas station for air pressure) or b) time (3 days) making sure it was seated and holding pressure.
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Old 08-11-17, 09:42 AM
  #60  
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Got a front tire puncture this morning, which I had been dreading because the sealant is old and goopy in the front and I have been meaning to add new stuff but... anyway it did seal up and I didn't lose noticeable pressure. No roostertail either which was nice. Glad this bike has some kind of integrated headset so the fork doesn't have a giant hole giving sealant full access to headset bearings.
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Old 08-15-17, 10:58 AM
  #61  
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Over the weekend I put new sealant in the front tire; when I let the air out to add sealant, the beads popped. Went back on when I pumped it back up but did not hold air overnight. So, I took it to air pump at gas station, soaped up the beads, blasted pressure in, and it held fine for one night but was not at rideable pressure this morning (but not flat either like the 1st night). That I can live with, so pumped it up, rode in, and hope that riding will distribute the sealant more. I was pumping the front about twice a week before this all started so if I get back to that it's not so bad.
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Old 08-15-17, 11:43 AM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by HardyWeinberg View Post
Over the weekend I put new sealant in the front tire; when I let the air out to add sealant, the beads popped. Went back on when I pumped it back up but did not hold air overnight. So, I took it to air pump at gas station, soaped up the beads, blasted pressure in, and it held fine for one night but was not at rideable pressure this morning (but not flat either like the 1st night). That I can live with, so pumped it up, rode in, and hope that riding will distribute the sealant more. I was pumping the front about twice a week before this all started so if I get back to that it's not so bad.
I use a product called skinnystripper.com that basically makes a tubless tire a tubular tire. The biggest benefit of this for me is that I can de-pressurize the tire add sealant, and just pump them back up. even on a ghetto tubeless conversion where the beads come off on deflating.

It also keeps the goop off your rim, and prevents burping. Cheap insurance.
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Old 08-15-17, 12:19 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by HardyWeinberg View Post
Over the weekend I put new sealant in the front tire; when I let the air out to add sealant, the beads popped. Went back on when I pumped it back up but did not hold air overnight. So, I took it to air pump at gas station, soaped up the beads, blasted pressure in, and it held fine for one night but was not at rideable pressure this morning (but not flat either like the 1st night). That I can live with, so pumped it up, rode in, and hope that riding will distribute the sealant more. I was pumping the front about twice a week before this all started so if I get back to that it's not so bad.
Did you ever do the 'Stan's Shake'?
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Old 08-15-17, 12:24 PM
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What is that?
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Old 08-15-17, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by HardyWeinberg View Post
What is that?
its an energy drink made from ammonia, latex, RV antifreeze and corn meal. You probably wouldn't like it.
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Old 08-15-17, 01:41 PM
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lol, no it's the vigorous shaking you need to do to distribute the sealant to all areas of the bead and inner tire. Hold the wheel horizontal, and waggle it up and down. Rotate 5-10 degrees, repeat.
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Old 08-15-17, 01:52 PM
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or just air them up to a moderate-low pressure and go for a gentle bike ride.
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Old 08-15-17, 02:09 PM
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I'd say rather a rough ride
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Old 08-15-17, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Darth Lefty View Post
its an energy drink made from ammonia, latex, RV antifreeze and corn meal. You probably wouldn't like it.
Depends on if it has enough caffeine...
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Old 08-15-17, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by RubeRad View Post
lol, no it's the vigorous shaking you need to do to distribute the sealant to all areas of the bead and inner tire. Hold the wheel horizontal, and waggle it up and down. Rotate 5-10 degrees, repeat.
I kinda did something like that I guess, I spun it for a while (great bearings!) and out of boredom started angling it up and down. Maybe that is too laminar and not turbulent enough. But I did commute today (couldn't yesterday) so we'll see if it gets better with time and use.
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Old 08-15-17, 07:17 PM
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Today I went to fix a flat in the rear and my 15yo rim strip was toast. So I replaced it with two layers of Gorilla! Getting close...
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Old 08-16-17, 08:40 AM
  #72  
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I'm not sure a double layer of gorilla would make any difference vs 1 -- I think you need to strive for proper width, not thickness. First time I did it, I didn't fully cover the channel, and I missed two tiny holes. Not the spoke holes, but opposite the valve hole, where the rim had been joined, there were two small holes off to either side, probably for pins to hold the rim together for welding. I had not fully covered those, and sealant (and air) leaked out.

Conversely, on another pair of rims I went overboard and had gorilla tape all up in the bead area. That tire wept its moisture like crazy. I think the top surface of the gorilla tape is so slick it prevented a good seal. I needed less gorilla tape so the rubber of the tire bead could get all up in the metal of the bead seat.

So, you know, goldilocks.
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Old 08-16-17, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by HardyWeinberg View Post
I kinda did something like that I guess, I spun it for a while (great bearings!) and out of boredom started angling it up and down. Maybe that is too laminar and not turbulent enough. But I did commute today (couldn't yesterday) so we'll see if it gets better with time and use.
In my experience, it can take about a week to get a good seal that holds air over time.
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Old 08-16-17, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by chas58 View Post
In my experience, it can take about a week to get a good seal that holds air over time.
Here's hoping. Unfortunately I've only got 3 days of commuting this week, and 2 or 3 next. The following week, back to normal though.
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Old 08-16-17, 02:24 PM
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Added a liter of Trucker's to my Amazon cart!

my understanding is that more layers = tighter fit and I'm using conventional clincher everything at first just because I'm playing around. The tires need a refresh on this bike, they are soft race tires and wore down quick. Ardent are on the shopping list for next season... or next bike!
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