Riding Position Question
 

So, I have decided part of the reason I hate my mountain bike is I'm so used to the road bike riding position, and hence that's part of the reason I don't like the cold weather coming, I switch bikes, and end up riding less because I hate that riding position. I am thinking of flipping the stem on my mountain bike and putting drop bars on it. Has anyone had an luck with this approach? I have hydraulic brakes, and love them, so I am not willing to switch brakes or shifters, but I think I can get them far enough in on the flat part of the bar to make it work as long as I can get them in position... thoughts?

Joe

A famous mountain biker raced for years on dropped handlebars. (I believe mostly to please his sponsor but it worked quite well for him.)

Putting your brakes on the tops and riding the drops means you do not have quick access to them. Not a good idea if you are riding in traffic unless you stay on the tops (and if you do that, why bother changing bars). Also, one of the great features of dropped handlebars is the brake hoods for climbing. (You could put on lever-less hoods, tandem stoker style.

Riding with my hands forward of the brakes with weight on them would scare the **** out of me. What if someone pulls out of a driveway?

Ben

I have changed riding positions on my bikes multiple times, however, for different reasons than yours. It almost always involves spending on something to make it come out right, but shouldn't break the bank. There's a thread in here somewhere about mountain bike drop bar conversions that would give tons of examples. Can't advise on the hydraulics though.

http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...sions-228.html

You might consider some "North Road" style bars, which are typically for upright bikes but have more of a rearward sweep than flat bars. You can install them upside-down for more of a lower position.

http://lovelybike.blogspot.com/2012/...road-bars.html
http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...road-bars.html

I put inboard bar ends that approximate the hoods. I also have an aero bar. This gives me quite a few hand positions, and more than a few puzzled looks. But it works for me and I'm happy.

Put "bar ends" inboard of your grips. This is similar to the hoods. And one advantage is you can set it wider. And you have access to the brakes at the normal mtb grip, wide grip for slow speed manouver.

Ditto, the flipped North Roads or albatross bars. No additional expense for brake levers, etc.

A friend did this with his hybrid. With flipped albatross bars he's as aero as anyone riding the hoods or top of drop bars. I have trouble now keeping up with him while riding my mountain bike with riser bars, especially into headwinds.

Between that modification and going clipless his speed over distance is significantly improved the past year.

All bars shapes and sizes come in both diameters, so there's no need for new brakes levers and such to switch to/from a drop.

However, to keep it easy, I'd look at an adjustable stem so that you can lower the current bars significantly and try many different positions it the matter of a few minutes.

Let me know if you need links to particular parts (I'm on mobile on the toilet and can sort it out later this morning.)

Jones Loop H-Bar
 

It will require a shorter stem, but you'll keep the advantages of a more mtb bar, have the advantage of multiple hand positions, and be able to go semi aero. There are even attachments available that will allow you to go fully aero.

Normal flat bar grip area diameter is 22.2 mm while normal drop bar grip area is 23.8 mm.
Don't expect to be able to get your flat bar controls onto a standard drop bar w/o modification.
Even if you get a 22.2 mm drop bar it's not guaranteed that you'll get the controls past the bends w/o undue force.


Why not try a pair of drop bar ends?
https://www.amazon.com/Origin8-33617.../dp/B0013G6PB8
Install is real easy.
Will do what you ask for.
If you like it, and develop a severe allergy against the bolt-on pieces, you can research a permanent solution at your leisure.

I was not aware of the 22.2 vs 23.8 difference. Of COURSE they would make it difficult :) This looks like a great fix, I'll look into those as old man winter approaches here in PA (I've got a few months of roadie bliss left). Thanks!

Joe

Thanks for all the replies, lots of options! I think the bolt on drops is the way I'm leaning, but I've got time to research it all.

Joe

Best post here. yep, mountain bike levers will not fit on drop bars - different diameter.
Most road brake levers don't work with mountain bike brakes - I'm not familiar with the pull ratio with hydralics though.

Those bolt on drops look like they could be the ticket. A bolt on triathalong aero bar would work too if you like the aero position.

No you don't need a different stem to go between flat bar and drops. you may prefer that, but OEM manufacturers use the same stem on bike that are sold in both configurations.
(when you are on top of the drops, you want them about the same distance away as the flat bars, when you are in the drops, your reach increases proportionately).

Another option is Surly Moloko bars. I recently installed them on my Project-3 and really dig the hand options. The position up top feels quite a bit like riding on the hoods of a drop bar.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f3...g?t=1498535810
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f3...g?t=1498535844

Those look very cool too! Lots of options!

You could even put barcon shifters up top too. I'm not ready to make that move, but it's something I've been thinking about.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f3...g?t=1498535844

Right. I forgot about those. I put them on a bike I recently build up for a friend. He likes the a lot.

May need a different stem. "Old" flat bar is 25.4 mm clamp diameter. "Old" drops are often 26.0 mm.
And sticking a 26.0 bar in a 25.4 mm clamp is generally frowned upon due to concerns about crimping becoming a stress riser and cause of failure.

And no sooner had they agreed on 31.8 mm bar clamp diameter, when someone came up with a 35 mm diameter...

well, I was referring more to the length but yeah, it has to match the bar diameter too.

TRP

+ barcons?

I have a set of TRP levers (cable) and I love them.

This. I think aero bars on a winter MTB with studded tires is a grossly underutilized setup. I sort of want to do it lol

Take a look at the soma sparrow bars. I have swapped the flat bars on my Raleigh and really like the change. Everything swapped without issue. They don't turn back quite as much as the north roads but they relieve the pain in my wrists that flat bars cause. I can bend my elbows and get fairly aero. They can be installed flipped if you want to go more aero. Not too pricey either.

I'm more of a mountain biker, but I really like the front hand position of the jones h loop. It's probably as close as I will get to a road bike.