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Rear disk (mechanical) brake lock up

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Rear disk (mechanical) brake lock up

Old 01-11-19, 08:37 AM
  #26  
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well 3.98 miles into my commute it completely locked the rear brake. I could NOT get it loose. I am taking it to the bike shop today. so frustrated with the brakes/ bike
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Old 01-11-19, 10:47 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by RidingMatthew View Post
well 3.98 miles into my commute it completely locked the rear brake. I could NOT get it loose. I am taking it to the bike shop today. so frustrated with the brakes/ bike
that is indeed frustrating, what did you do? walk back home?
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Old 01-11-19, 11:13 AM
  #28  
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commute with tools.. With a pocket multi tool you could just un hook the cable & take the brake off, the frame..

arriving late can get you sacked.
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Old 01-11-19, 11:25 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
commute with tools.. With a pocket multi tool you could just un hook the cable & take the brake off, the frame..

arriving late can get you sacked.
Could be the caliper arm seizing or piston. Could probably still get it to work somehow, but this time of year when it's -15*C, that's easier said than done.
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Old 01-11-19, 12:27 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by RidingMatthew View Post
well 3.98 miles into my commute it completely locked the rear brake. I could NOT get it loose. I am taking it to the bike shop today. so frustrated with the brakes/ bike
I'm baffled. That does not sound like a weather related problem.

It sounds like a broken caliper problem. It's just odd that it happens while riding and not at home.

If it was frozen due to the cold it shouldn't be THAT locked up. I mean how much ice can there be?

Plus I'd think you'd be able to force the caliper open as it wouldn't have to push against the cable.

The only weather thing I can't think of is that the cold shrank the metal in the caliper so the parts no longer fit properly. But that doesn't sound like a real thing. That is me grasping at straws. While it's true the cold will cause the metal to contract it shouldn't be THAT much.
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Old 01-11-19, 12:35 PM
  #31  
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The other thing I would look at is the lubrication of the piston, caliper and sliders. ASSuming the cable it lubricated and the isn't any water inside it then it sounds like the caliper is not releasing. Silicone or a special lubricant is used on automotive systems, does it look like your calipers etc are lubricated? How does the front brake look?
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Old 01-11-19, 12:58 PM
  #32  
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@rumrunn6 I called for ride home. Got home showered and took my son to school and arrived to work only 20 minutes late. (less than I expected)

@fietsbob that is true tools would be good to have but a couple circumstances to point out... it was 18F and I was not about to start taking the bike apart on the side of a busy road. Plus work is pretty forgiving. I have to stay late to make some time up no biggy.

With my hands in gloves I could not get the arm to release the brake. The lever certainly felt loose and wiggling (compared to normal) In regards to the rear caliper vs the front. Front has worked no problem in the cold. You would think it would be colder being out front and all. What was weird was that this was not a big hill I guess the temps of the metals had gotten down to cold enough that whatever is happening happens. (I need to be able to ride my bike in these kind of conditions). The past two days have been in 26F and 18F in the morning. what would cause the metal to get stuck when that cold and then loosen up when warmer?

we had taken my car to the shop too so we were already down to one car for the day.
PS rode home yesterday with no problem. It was in the mid 30sF
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Old 01-11-19, 01:06 PM
  #33  
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Its typically warmer here.. But when it ices up I get out the drum brake hub bike*.. its been reliable for 30 years..

*it wears the studded tires..
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Old 01-11-19, 01:28 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
Its typically warmer here.. But when it ices up I get out the drum brake hub bike*.. its been reliable for 30 years..

*it wears the studded tires..
it is typically warmer here too. haha i never had this problem with my old commuter and its cantilever brakes. :\ i did not think i would have as much problem with this bike as I have.
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Old 01-11-19, 01:59 PM
  #35  
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my similar brakes have been fine in the mid-high 20s. I'll bet after a mech looks at it, they'll get it rolling reliably again. the sooner you get it to a bike shop the sooner you can ride it. or take it apart yourself, nothing to lose, if you can't fix it, you can still bring it in. if you can fix it, you'll be riding this weekend!
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Old 01-11-19, 02:37 PM
  #36  
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not riding this weekend freezing rain and 30's are the forecast.. NC seems to have forgotten what makes NC nice... SO MUCH STUPID PRECIPATATION
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Old 01-11-19, 03:28 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by RidingMatthew View Post
not riding this weekend freezing rain and 30's are the forecast.. NC seems to have forgotten what makes NC nice... SO MUCH STUPID PRECIPATATION
yeah that giant mess is sliding South of us. Saturdays are my usual ride days but tomorrow looks a bit brisk! gonna take my time getting out & it will probably be for only a cpl hrs

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Old 01-11-19, 03:56 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by RidingMatthew View Post
The past two days have been in 26F and 18F in the morning. what would cause the metal to get stuck when that cold and then loosen up when warmer?
I think a lack of lubrication has something to do with the problem. Something isn't able to slide like it should causing the brakes to stick.
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Old 01-11-19, 04:34 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by acidfast7 View Post
I know. I recommend you change to hydros and run DOT fluid.
More specifically (if you haven't solved this already), don't just buy any hydros and use DOT fluid, buy hydros that are spec'd to use DOT fluid.

Shimano hydraulics all use mineral oil. In my climate I much prefer that, as you can get it on your hands and paint and it's not harmful. But in temps like yours if the mineral oil could freeze, then brakes that use DOT fluid would be preferable. That would include IIRC all SRAM (Avid) hydraulic disc brakes.
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Old 01-11-19, 06:08 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by RubeRad View Post
More specifically (if you haven't solved this already), don't just buy any hydros and use DOT fluid, buy hydros that are spec'd to use DOT fluid.

Shimano hydraulics all use mineral oil. In my climate I much prefer that, as you can get it on your hands and paint and it's not harmful. But in temps like yours if the mineral oil could freeze, then brakes that use DOT fluid would be preferable. That would include IIRC all SRAM (Avid) hydraulic disc brakes.
I took it to the bike shop tonight and shop owner was like we need to swap the caliper out. I was surprised he jumped to that so quick. I said can I pay difference for an upgrade. He said yeah. “What would be an upgrade?” I asked and we decided to go with TRP Hy/Rd. I am not sure if it uses DOT fluid or not but I have heard good things about the brakes. I should I have more modulation and stopping power over the current brakes. If I like them I will have to pony up to get some for the front.

Kinda disappointed they don’t come in black like what is on there. I will be happy to not have a parking brake on my bike.
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Old 01-11-19, 06:10 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by rumrunn6 View Post
yeah that giant mess is sliding South of us. Saturdays are my usual ride days but tomorrow looks a bit brisk! gonna take my time getting out & it will probably be for only a cpl hrs

i am not sure where you are but we are going to some slip this weekend. Again
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Old 01-12-19, 06:14 PM
  #42  
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TRP Hy/Rd. uses mineral oil but has no hoses,, because master ,actuated by the cable being pulled, and the 2 slave pistons are, combined, in that caliper ,
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Old 01-12-19, 06:25 PM
  #43  
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Upgrade to BB7s, they are the best mechanical disk brakes around. Well worth it and it's not all that expensive.
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Old 01-12-19, 06:31 PM
  #44  
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HyRd were an upgrade from BB7 for me.
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Old 01-14-19, 08:19 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
HyRd were an upgrade from BB7 for me.
Thanks for sharing this I have heard they are really nice. I thought it was mineral oil but I think that there is something in the old caliper that is freezing up. I hope hoping the dual sided caliper will fix the issue. Seems crazy that the caliper would freeze and limit my riding in the cold before my clothing and body temp does.
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Old 01-15-19, 12:06 PM
  #46  
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With this year being my fifth commuting through the winter season, it was about time this happened on my Norco Indie foul weather bomber with run of the mill Tektro mechanical disc brakes. The rear worked in the warmth of indoors, but a few kilometers into the ride it would freeze up. I replaced the cable and made sure to thoroughly lube the newbie with good oil. Works just fine now at -15c or colder. I've been eyeing the Sturmey-Archer five speed disc hub to replace the drivetrain now that it is quite worn. Winter is hard on bicycles.
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Old 01-15-19, 12:29 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by RidingMatthew View Post
Thanks for sharing this I have heard they are really nice. I thought it was mineral oil but I think that there is something in the old caliper that is freezing up. .
You have 0 hose length on the HyRd..

fully mechanical Spyre ans Spyke are also double acting,, 1 arm operates 2 pads , both moving to the disc...
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Old 01-15-19, 02:22 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Ged117 View Post
With this year being my fifth commuting through the winter season, it was about time this happened on my Norco Indie foul weather bomber with run of the mill Tektro mechanical disc brakes. The rear worked in the warmth of indoors, but a few kilometers into the ride it would freeze up. I replaced the cable and made sure to thoroughly lube the newbie with good oil. Works just fine now at -15c or colder. I've been eyeing the Sturmey-Archer five speed disc hub to replace the drivetrain now that it is quite worn. Winter is hard on bicycles.
shouldn't have to do that or i should say it should be good since the bike was brand new in August 2018 (new to me anyway)
definitely going to ask them to remove the cable and inspect and lube up nicely
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Old 01-15-19, 02:56 PM
  #49  
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My history

"late & alive > (but sacked/fired because you are late?) early & dead." (tired?)




It happens..





...

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Old 01-16-19, 07:50 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
"late & alive > (but sacked/fired because you are late?) early & dead." (tired?)
WHat? i already said they are pretty understanding so far I have not been terribly late anyway. There are still people who come in closer to 10am
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