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Converting to hydraulic braking system?

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Converting to hydraulic braking system?

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Old 01-25-19, 10:29 AM
  #26  
Mitkraft
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I’ll put in another vote for the TRP HY/RD. I have them on my drop bar Commuter/gravel bike because I didn’t want to spend the extra on full hydro Shimano road STI. I use them with an otherwise Ultegra 6600 setup and they are brilliant! They give me the piece of mind I was looking for during commutes like all weather reliability, more stopping power with less hand strength required, no worries about mud caking up at the calipers. They haven’t required any adjustment since I installed them. I have Deore LX full hydro on my 29er and I can’t say I particularly like it over theTRP (different animal though).

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Old 01-26-19, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Trellaine View Post
Hi question about the TRP Spyre mentioned in this thread. Are these mechanical with 2 pistons? Or are you talking hydraulic?



thanks
Spyre short pull and Spyke long/ V MTB pull are double acting Mechanical brakes *
from TRP, Hy Rd is their hydro - cable operated brake, they also make MTB and one Road full hydro ...
Many more under Tektro brand .. same company..

* Manual, you are the pad wear adjuster on them for both sides..







...
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Old 01-28-19, 05:59 PM
  #28  
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As many others have already said, Shimano hydros are very good.

Complete sets can be had very cheap on eBay, if you are willing to wait a few weeks for shipping from Asia, and either (a) put up with un-American convention (right-front, left-rear), or (b) swap the cables and deal with setting them up with hydraulic fluid again.
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Old 01-28-19, 06:35 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by 350htrr View Post
I do know that my top of the line, fully hydraulic brakes with DOT 3 automotive brake fluid that I changed to synthetic DOT 4 the second year I had them
DOT 4 for a bicycle? There is nothing wrong with that, per se, but don't you think that's overkill?
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Old 01-28-19, 08:54 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by robertorolfo View Post
DOT 4 for a bicycle? There is nothing wrong with that, per se, but don't you think that's overkill?
Certainly can be construed as over kill... But, I haven't touched the system for over 16 years, and it works perfectly... ??? Never freezes up, never boils over, never needed to be opened up letting in air to end up/lead to be needing to be bleeded… what's not to like...??? Oh, by the way, it was synthetic DOT 4 brake fluid...

Last edited by 350htrr; 01-28-19 at 09:04 PM.
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Old 01-29-19, 11:59 AM
  #31  
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OK, RTFM... Some brakes use mineral Oil, Others DOT .. Remember ... DOT will eat paint., so wipe up any spillage, immediately ...
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Old 01-29-19, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 350htrr View Post
Certainly can be construed as over kill... But, I haven't touched the system for over 16 years, and it works perfectly... ??? Never freezes up, never boils over, never needed to be opened up letting in air to end up/lead to be needing to be bleeded… what's not to like...??? Oh, by the way, it was synthetic DOT 4 brake fluid...
I really can't see many real world (or non real world) situations where even DOT 3 would come anywhere close to boiling on a bicycle.

And bleeding the system is bleeding the system, regardless of which fluid you use. It's really not as bad as some people seem to perceive it to be, especially with a single caliper on the front or rear.
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Old 01-29-19, 02:01 PM
  #33  
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Following the recommended bleed procedure for Avid hydros (in my case Elixirs) was a huge PITA, setting up vacuums on both ends to pull bubbles.

Burping Shimanos however is a breeze
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Old 01-29-19, 02:11 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by RubeRad View Post
Following the recommended bleed procedure for Avid hydros (in my case Elixirs) was a huge PITA, setting up vacuums on both ends to pull bubbles.

Burping Shimanos however is a breeze
Vacuums on both ends? That sounds strange. Are they some sort of unique design?
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Old 01-29-19, 02:27 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by robertorolfo View Post
I really can't see many real world (or non real world) situations where even DOT 3 would come anywhere close to boiling on a bicycle.

And bleeding the system is bleeding the system, regardless of which fluid you use. It's really not as bad as some people seem to perceive it to be, especially with a single caliper on the front or rear.
I agree, DOT 3 brake fluid would never boil, I changed it to synthetic so I could leave it and not need to do anything with it, unlike some of the fluids some cheaper hydraulics have seem to need to be dealt with by some people on here quite often it seems...
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Old 01-29-19, 02:31 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by robertorolfo View Post
Vacuums on both ends? That sounds strange. Are they some sort of unique design?
yeah, vacuum is used to remove gas from both the caliper and the lever -- lol after first using vacuum to remove bubbles from the fluid in the syringe itself, I forgot about that part. Here's the official vid

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Old 01-29-19, 02:39 PM
  #37  
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it's really easy. Get rid of Dick breaks all together. caliper brakes are the best thing in the world
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Old 01-30-19, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 350htrr View Post
I agree, DOT 3 brake fluid would never boil, I changed it to synthetic so I could leave it and not need to do anything with it, unlike some of the fluids some cheaper hydraulics have seem to need to be dealt with by some people on here quite often it seems...
Does the synthetic have superior qualities when it comes to hydroscopicity? As far as I know (and that's not saying much), the enemy of most brake fluids is their ability to stay pure (of course heat and whatnot is an enemy in other situations, but we are talking about maintenance here). If the synthetic helps with that, that's good. Otherwise, I think the quality of the system (how well sealed and protected it is) is the key factor. All of that said, though, I struggle to see how even brake fluid in the poorest state wouldn't be sufficient for use on a bicycle.

Originally Posted by RubeRad
yeah, vacuum is used to remove gas from both the caliper and the lever -- lol after first using vacuum to remove bubbles from the fluid in the syringe itself, I forgot about that part. Here's the official vid
Wow, that is quite a bit different, and considerably more complicated, than anything I have seen before. Granted, my experience comes from auto and motorcycle hydraulic brakes, but this seems needlessly complex.
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Old 01-30-19, 07:44 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by robertorolfo View Post
Does the synthetic have superior qualities when it comes to hydroscopicity? As far as I know (and that's not saying much), the enemy of most brake fluids is their ability to stay pure (of course heat and whatnot is an enemy in other situations, but we are talking about maintenance here). If the synthetic helps with that, that's good. Otherwise, I think the quality of the system (how well sealed and protected it is) is the key factor. All of that said, though, I struggle to see how even brake fluid in the poorest state wouldn't be sufficient for use on a bicycle..
Synthetic has huge superior equalities in every way... For instance, I can change my motor oil in my car, in January, but would require an oil change next January or even earlier, even tho, the oil had lets say less than a 1,000 miles worth of use with "normal" motor oil, with synthetic oil I could go lets say 24,000 miles without changing the oil, for whatever it takes, years even for me to put the 24,000 miles on my motor to warrant the oil change...
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Old 01-31-19, 12:05 AM
  #40  
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Like bleeding brakes on cars .. Ever do that ?

open drain plug, it flows out thru the bottom, in to a cup / bucket.. replace what flows out adding it from the top. do so till no more bubbles.. out the bottom..
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Old 01-31-19, 05:14 AM
  #41  
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Are you sure that your brakes are in good condition and your calipers are trimmed well? Make sure that brake wires aren't rusted or worn, brakepads aren't worn and calipers are trimmed well. I use an hybrid bike with mech discs and I have used my cousin's hybrid bike with hydraulic disc once. Mechanic disc needs only a bit more force of hand and braking distances are very similar I think.
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Old 01-31-19, 07:05 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by 350htrr View Post
Synthetic has huge superior equalities in every way... For instance, I can change my motor oil in my car, in January, but would require an oil change next January or even earlier, even tho, the oil had lets say less than a 1,000 miles worth of use with "normal" motor oil, with synthetic oil I could go lets say 24,000 miles without changing the oil, for whatever it takes, years even for me to put the 24,000 miles on my motor to warrant the oil change...
We don't even have non-synthetic motor oil over here. (I'm a huge car guy and have never seen any garage use it in the UK). Also, rotors are never turned as the labour cost is too high compared to the cost of a disc.

As far as the brake fluid hygroscopicity, we also change the entire fluid system on cars every two years, which I initially found very hardcore, but it really seems to keep the braking components in better shape (pistons, ABS modulators, master cylinders, etc...) compared to when I lived in the states.

Having said that, the cars see crazy usage patterns in SE England, my first set of front pads was done at 30k miles. Already went through a water pump as well at 50k miles.
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Old 01-31-19, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by tyrion View Post
Which Jagwire pads did you get, the Sport Organic or the Sport Semi-metallic?

I recently got a bike with HY/RDs - they're my first disc brakes so I have no frame of reference. I really like these brakes, but I could use a little more braking power - I'm 220 lbs. (I believe they're fully bedded in.)
The jagwire are good, but swisstop metallic are even better. They are also twice as much, but if I can find them they feel worth it.

Rob
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Old 01-31-19, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
Like bleeding brakes on cars .. Ever do that ?

open drain plug, it flows out thru the bottom, in to a cup / bucket.. replace what flows out adding it from the top. do so till no more bubbles.. out the bottom..
Drain plugs on the bottom? Most calipers I have encountered (mostly motorcycle, but a few cars) have them on the top of the caliper. Not that the procedure is too different... that's why this video with all the vacuum procedures seems so strange.
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Old 01-31-19, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by robertorolfo View Post
Drain plugs on the bottom? Most calipers I have encountered (mostly motorcycle, but a few cars) have them on the top of the caliper. Not that the procedure is too different... that's why this video with all the vacuum procedures seems so strange.
agree. most calipers I see it's more near the top than the bottom:

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Old 01-31-19, 07:07 PM
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Rtfm

Hose screwed into the bleed port,.... in cars they made that so you can push a hose over it and then unscrew it.. and fluid comes out of the middle of the bleed fitting.

and it goes in a cup/ pail..


My Magura HS 33, 2 plastic syringe plungers + screw in hoses, top adds more , bottom collect excess, and let bubbles out....



..
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Old 01-31-19, 08:17 PM
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I certainly won't discourage you from upgrading your brakes, though I've never tried hydraulics myself except on a test ride of a new bike. But I think that if the mechanicals are functioning properly, they shouldn't need to be adjusted that often. Granted it depends on how much braking you do, your terrain, etc. But in 3 years, I've barely had to adjust my cheap Tektro mechancals at all.

Maybe the new caliper will fix the problem. Now one thing I've noticed. If I hit my brakes hard and let up suddenly, like in a panic stop situation, they will warp a bit from the heat and then gradually straighten themselves back out with subsequent lighter braking. The first time this happened, I got worried and tempted to mess with the brakes but fortunately didn't have a convenient place to stop, and the problem went away. Maybe something like that is happening?
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Old 02-01-19, 05:13 AM
  #48  
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I want to upgrade to hydraulics but I am 100% sure I wont be able to do on my own/ How much shall I expect to pay for mechanic to do it for me.
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Old 02-01-19, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Gresp15C View Post
If I hit my brakes hard and let up suddenly, like in a panic stop situation, they will warp a bit from the heat and then gradually straighten themselves back out with subsequent lighter braking. T
Again, I'm not an expert, but it seems unlikely that you are subsequently re-honing or truing the discs with normal use. I'm thinking that the hard stop must have left some sort of residue on the discs that might feel like warping through the lever, but which eventually wears away. Just a guess though.
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Old 02-01-19, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by robertorolfo View Post
Again, I'm not an expert, but it seems unlikely that you are subsequently re-honing or truing the discs with normal use. I'm thinking that the hard stop must have left some sort of residue on the discs that might feel like warping through the lever, but which eventually wears away. Just a guess though.
What I'm thinking is that non-uniform heating of the disk warps it, but it goes away when the disc cools off. But that's just a guess. The discs are clean as a whistle.
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