Headlight Suggestions?
 

Specialized pizza rack has a seemingly handy mount for a headlight, but I haven’t figured out a way to use it. It appears that it is not threaded. Any headlight suggestions for this type of mount or a clever way to attach something? I’d like to keep it low budget, but bright enough for night riding.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...3bf6bda95.jpeg

This is what I’m going to try. I decided to post in the case it helps someone somehow. It took a bunch of searching around and contemplation. The only concern I have is keeping the single bolt from rotating and having the accessory bar swinging from side to side, but I’m hoping lock washers and locktite will help. The Cateye 400 seems like a decent amount of light at a reasonable price to quality ratio.

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I wonder if that mount is for a dynamo headlight like this one? Or for a reflector; but that would be just dumb. Good luck with your hack.

I suppose that a dynamo hub with lights is not what most people would consider to be "low budget," but it is what I use and recommend.

To see the road (and potholes) at higher speeds on a dark night (no moon or street lights), I would recommend a model with 80 or more lux.

Busch + Müller also make a good rear light, that has a brake light function:
https://www.bike24.com/p225270.html?sku=92772

Relja Dynamo Novović

Thanks for the suggestion, I will check that website.

[MENTION=210511]Bike Gremlin[/MENTION], I wasn't suggesting OP buy a dynamo hub, I was just trying to figure out what that mount was designed for. A dynamo light doesn't make sense either because the mount is in the middle of the rack rather than to one side. I checked the Specialized website and they don't have any headlights to go there, so I give up.

I understand, just thought it's worth noting (and suggesting if the budget allows for it).

As for the middle - that should be no problem for mounting dynamo hub lights.
Wires can be routed along the tubes, just as they are routed for the middle of the rear rack mount (if the rear mudguard doesn't have wire attachments).

Relja

interesting but wouldn't that be pointing down so any light would have to be mounted sideways?

I believe you can install the mount sideways, then you would have a small tube that would act the same as handlebar space.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...6a842c2551.jpg

Interesting idea, thanks!

oh ok I see. :thumb:

it might rotate down over bumps so I'd def. use something to secure the nut & bolt, maybe a lock washer or some loctite

Since it goes through, I would go for a bolt with washers and a nylon lock nut.

[​​​​QUOTE=rumrunn6;22994990]oh ok I see. :thumb:

it might rotate down over bumps so I'd def. use something to secure the nut & bolt, maybe a lock washer or some loctite[/QUOTE]

Peter White of PeterWhitecycles.com has a few articles dedicated to mounting and wiring the models of lights he sells, however it hasn't been updated in a while and doesn't cover a mount slung under a rack. I'm extremely biased towards bicycle lights that meet the German lighting standards because they operate like modern LED headlights in cars. When aimed correctly, the light will provide a flat even light that shouldn't blind other road users. I'd look for a light that is compact to fit under the rack. I'd also consider a remote battery pack to keep the light small, or even just to have the bulb and reflector mounted there and as close to the underside of the rack as possible. Busch & Muller makes the Ixon IQ Speed that has a remote battery pack, but doesn't seem to have an armature for bolting to the frame as it's primarily a handlebar lamp. Beware that the Ixon IQ Speed was introduced a decade ago.

I did get it to work. I filed down two sides of the braze-on located in the middle and attached the mounting bracket. The bracket had a slot of sorts that when paired with the flat sides I filed, prevented it from rotating. The light barely fit and it works really well for my needs. I may consider getting another light for the other side of the bracket considering they are cheap. I think it would look the bees knees.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ac6cd7ec4.jpeg
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It is. A while back I got a Specialized AWOL on clearance with the pizza rack, and it included a Supernova dynamo headlight mounted there.

Looks like OP found a cool solution though!

nice :thumb:
got a link for the bracket?

I remember the AWOL; it was pretty cool IMO. Shame they dropped it so quickly. How do you like yours? And yes, the OP's hack is quite nifty.

I like it a lot! I have about 10,000 miles on mine. It's my daily commuter, and I also just did RAGBRAI on it.

It has some downsides:

• It's rather heavy.
• I have some toe overlap on this bike (especially with fenders installed), but that's maybe unavoidable, being a shorter rider on a smaller-frame bike. Maybe I'd be better off with a bike with 650b wheels.
• I replaced the (in my experience) fiddly TRP HY/RD brakes with pure mechanical TRP Spyre disc brakes. Almost the same stopping power but much less fiddliness.
• Quick release and disc brakes is another fiddly combination; I'd much prefer through-axles with disc brakes, I think.
• Nice that it has a bottom bracket mount for a kickstand, but it took a ton of trial and error to find a two-legged one that doesn't interfere with either the chain or the rear tire. I'd prefer a mount point for a rear wheel kickstand, but this frame doesn't have one. (Though I suppose I could have someone weld one on, since it's steel...)

If I'm tempted to get a replacement for this as a touring bike, it'd probably be something like a Co-Motion with S&S couplers, belt-drive compatibility, and maybe 650b or even 26" wheels. But regardless, I plan to put many, many more miles on my AWOL. The frame is very robust, and the accessories that came with the AWOL Expert—particularly the front "pizza" rack and the fenders—are perfectly matched to the bike, not surprising since they're all from Specialized.

ah thank you! nice job removing the clamp! very clever!

For the toeverlap you might try shorter cranks like these; your knees and hips will be happier too. I wouldn't worry too much about weight; however heavy our bikes are, we're heavier. So, to complete the threadjack, do you have pics of the bike?

Thanks for the pointer on crank length. So far I've just been using the 170mm cranks that came on my bikes, but I realize I have no reason to believe this is optimal for me, and obviously shorter cranks equals less overlap.

Always happy to provide bicycle pictures :) I normally leave the fenders on year round (even when it's dry out, the mud flaps seem to keep some amount of dust away from the drivetrain), but I left them at home for easier shipping to Iowa.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f18a232f8f.jpg

Sweet, thanks for the bike pr0n. If you're less than 6 feet tall or have short legs, you'll likely benefit from shorter cranks.

I also leave my fenders on year-round for just that reason. Mounting fenders being a huge PITA has nothing to do with it, nothing at all. :D

If you go to Niterider website they have a refurbish section, I bought a Lumina 1100 for $40! The only refurbish one they have left now is the Lumina 900 for $30, more will come in, but when is the big question.

The one thing about Niterider lights is that the light comes apart with screws, you can replace the battery yourself, or send it in, the last I checked it was $24 for NiteRider to do that, it could be more now with inflation, if they do it, they check the entire light out including the seals. Batteries in lights only last an average of 500 hours, unless it's a Lezyne, those last 250 hours, but the LEDs are good for at least 50,000 hours, so we're forced to throw away a perfectly good light because the battery won't hold a charge?! What a waste, not only to the landfill but also natural resources; so at least the NiteRider all you're going to throw-out is the battery and you can take those to recycle places.