Question about handlebar conversion
 

I'm really liking the Kona Dew (click), but I would like it more if I could get road handle bars on it.

Is it possible to do that without costing too much money?


Thx

The brake levers will not be compatible with road drops, and the shifters most likely will not be either. You would need new levers and probably shifters, and then the brakes would possibly need what they call "travel agents" to make the cable pull distance work well with road levers. Not exactly a cheap proposition, but not too bad if you can scare up some parts for cheap and feel like a project. The brak cables would also need to be replaced since road levers use a different fitting at the lever end.

What you couold do for cheap is add bar ends to the handlebars to create what are essentially bullhorn handlebars. This will let you stretch out a bit more to get tucked in and have a few more hand positions, but it os not a perfect solution if you really want the drops.

If you want drop bars, you will most likely need;
Stem ($30 on up), standard road bar clamping diameter is 26mm, mtb bar clamping dia is 25.4
Bars and bar wrap ($30 on up)
Brake levers
Shifters
cables and housings.

I know Dia Comp makes brake levers for drop bars that work with V-brakes, the 287-V (~$60). If you use the Dia Comp V-brake levers and bar-end shifters(~$60), you don't need travel agents. The Dew frame has cable stop braze-ons on the down-tube so down tube shifters aren't very practical for your frame.

As far as I know, there are no brifters (brake lever/shifter combo) that will work with V-brakes. To use brifters (Shimano Sora 3x8 ~$160/set) you will need the travel agents(~$35/pair).

So, figure about $200 if you buy new stuff, or you can probably do it for a lot cheaper if you know what to buy and shop ebay and craigslist.

There are a variety of drop bars with 25.4 clamping, the On-One Midges being one.

You can easily find drop bars in 25.4 mm clamp diameter. In the end, you may decide on a different stem anyway if you aren't happy with the position of the new bars. I'd get 25.4 drop bars and try them. Just budget for a second stem in case you want to change the reach or angle of the stem.

You will need new brake levers. Not only for the curved nature of where the brake levers mount on drop bars. Also because MTB and road bars have different diameters where the brakes mount. Make sure you bet brake levers that are compatible with your brakes. V-brakes, for example require a brake lever that pulls more cable and has less leverage built into the handle. I'm not sure if there are any road brake levers with that characteristic.

Check your front derailuer. If its the bottom pull type (on most, but not all off-road bikes, e.g. Shimano Altus, etc.), you will need to change it to a top pull (e.g. Shimano Sora, 105, et. al). The bottom pulls do not work with brifters for reasons that only Shimano could explain.

Thx guys, looks like quite a bit of work there.

It'll probably be a long term project, looking for used parts then.

I converted my hybrid over the winter. Also include in-line cable adjusters as the stops for the casings on the downtubes and the brake cables dont provide for turnbarrels. I used Soras, to which I added pieces so I could shift from the drops. I find it much more comfortable riding in the drops. I have cantilever brakes so I didnt need travel-agents.

Not quite. Derailers intended for road bikes are bottom pull, NOT top pull. Top pull derailers are mountain derailers. Bottom pulls generally work fine with road shifters - they are intended to! The fact that many top pull derailers do not has nothing to do with where the cable is pulling from, but is instead because of different cable pull used by Shimano road vs. mountain derailers. Even though bottom pull derailers will generally work with road shifters, and top pulls with mountain shifters, there are exceptions. Much more indicative is whether it's marketed for mountain or road use. If you're not sure, ask your LBS.

Once again, Sora, Tiagra, 105 etc derailers are bottom pull, not top pull.