MTB Commuter rebuild advice
#1
Dr. FeelGood
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MTB Commuter rebuild advice
My only bike is a ~2000 Alum Raleigh M60 MTB hardtail with slicks. Love it but now I think it needs new components (some occasional gear slips) and everything is stock. I'm mechanically inclined but have never had to wrench on a bike other than maintenance/cleaning. Should I replace with same components? Should I upgrade? Is cost of upgrade worth performance? Are these things better left to the LBS (which I like to support but I don't want to dump a huge amount into it)? Are there spacial tools? (cause I have lots of tools)
This is my workout bike as well as my commuter. It is really only on the pavement. I think I need new brake and deraillieur cables. A new chain too. Should I replace the crank as well as the cogs or just the cogs. Do derillieurs last long? I will go to the mechanics later but I wanted to ask you fellow commuters first. I don't have a car. I have access to one but prefer the bike.
This is my workout bike as well as my commuter. It is really only on the pavement. I think I need new brake and deraillieur cables. A new chain too. Should I replace the crank as well as the cogs or just the cogs. Do derillieurs last long? I will go to the mechanics later but I wanted to ask you fellow commuters first. I don't have a car. I have access to one but prefer the bike.
#2
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Cables and housing are easy - just need a cable cutting tool, and use old cables to judge length ($20 online or $35 + labor at lbs)
Cassette - needs special tools (possibly chain whip and possibly splined removal tool and preferably torque wrench) ($20 online and i paid $38 at lbs recently for cheapest they had)
Rings - may need whole crankset - may be able to just do rings. Will most likely need to remove arms (probably just normal crank-puller from square taper bb - definitely want torque wrench) - may want to check and possibly replace bottom bracket when you do this. ($35-100 depending on what you replace with)
Chain - easy with good tool, tedious with crappy tool ($15). lbs may charge $10 to install, which could mostly pay for a nice tool.
The LBS will evaluate wear for you. Just ask 'em straight up how much it will cost to replace stuff.
Cassette - needs special tools (possibly chain whip and possibly splined removal tool and preferably torque wrench) ($20 online and i paid $38 at lbs recently for cheapest they had)
Rings - may need whole crankset - may be able to just do rings. Will most likely need to remove arms (probably just normal crank-puller from square taper bb - definitely want torque wrench) - may want to check and possibly replace bottom bracket when you do this. ($35-100 depending on what you replace with)
Chain - easy with good tool, tedious with crappy tool ($15). lbs may charge $10 to install, which could mostly pay for a nice tool.
The LBS will evaluate wear for you. Just ask 'em straight up how much it will cost to replace stuff.
#3
SoCal Commuter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Agua Dulce, CA
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I would hesitate before beginning a wholesale component upgrade. You can get a fairly nice new MTB these days with disc brakes for the same money a new crank, front and rear derailleurs and a wheel set will cost you. As long as the wheels are still true and spinning freely on their bearings I'd stick with a tune up.
You don't need a new crank, but Does it creak or clunk when you stand up and pedal? Take the chain off and spin the pedals around. They should rotate at least a half dozen times, given a good push. If they drag, wobble or clunk you should replace the sealed bottom bracket. It's not hard and lots of folks here can advise you.
New cables and chain will make a world of difference. That particular bike probably came with OK brakes. You might consider replaceing them with a new set of OK brakes. Really, you can get a new set of V-brakes for like $10 or $15 a wheel - you don't have to spend more than that.
Unless the bike's got a trillion miles, or has seen some serious muddy, noreaster rode gritty winter duty, I'd guess the chain rings and sprockets are alright. You're a mechanic? Inspect them for wear. If you're running the original chain it might be stretched out enough to be causing you gear jumps. And if you've never adjusted the derailleurs that might be the reason also. However, my experience with derailleurs is that they last a long time, especially front ones. I think you'll get a way with cleaning and adjusting them. And again, there's lots of help here doing that.
Start with that and see if your bike's performance improves. It woun't cost you much to see if there's still life in the old girl. If you start looking at more than $150-$200, look around for a good deal on a new bike.
DanO
You don't need a new crank, but Does it creak or clunk when you stand up and pedal? Take the chain off and spin the pedals around. They should rotate at least a half dozen times, given a good push. If they drag, wobble or clunk you should replace the sealed bottom bracket. It's not hard and lots of folks here can advise you.
New cables and chain will make a world of difference. That particular bike probably came with OK brakes. You might consider replaceing them with a new set of OK brakes. Really, you can get a new set of V-brakes for like $10 or $15 a wheel - you don't have to spend more than that.
Unless the bike's got a trillion miles, or has seen some serious muddy, noreaster rode gritty winter duty, I'd guess the chain rings and sprockets are alright. You're a mechanic? Inspect them for wear. If you're running the original chain it might be stretched out enough to be causing you gear jumps. And if you've never adjusted the derailleurs that might be the reason also. However, my experience with derailleurs is that they last a long time, especially front ones. I think you'll get a way with cleaning and adjusting them. And again, there's lots of help here doing that.
Start with that and see if your bike's performance improves. It woun't cost you much to see if there's still life in the old girl. If you start looking at more than $150-$200, look around for a good deal on a new bike.
DanO
#4
domestique
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A guy I work with and I both went through this last summer. We have essentially identical 1980's Specialized Hardrock rigid steel MTB's. He took his to the LBS. Cost him $200 for a whole new drivetrain and brake cables. They replaced with identical low-end stuff (such as rivetted chainrings).
I converted mine to SS myself. It cost me about $250 (not counting the tools I bought). I lost 17 gears and spent greater than $50 more than my friend. On the other hand, I got the bike I wanted with nicer quality components. More than that, though, I got to do the work myself. That's why I did it. I just wanted to do it myself.
I converted mine to SS myself. It cost me about $250 (not counting the tools I bought). I lost 17 gears and spent greater than $50 more than my friend. On the other hand, I got the bike I wanted with nicer quality components. More than that, though, I got to do the work myself. That's why I did it. I just wanted to do it myself.
#5
DancesWithSUVs
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+1 for letting the LBS evaluate. It may just need a good tune-up.
You may also want to consider swapping to a rigid fork. If you're running at least 1.5" tires,you'll have all the bump dampening you need without suspension,plus you'll save weight and gain some pedaling efficiency.
You may also want to consider swapping to a rigid fork. If you're running at least 1.5" tires,you'll have all the bump dampening you need without suspension,plus you'll save weight and gain some pedaling efficiency.
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C'dale BBU('05 and '09)/Super Six/Hooligan8and 3,Kona Dew Deluxe,Novara Buzz/Safari,Surly Big Dummy,Marin Pt Reyes,Giant Defy 1,Schwinn DBX SuperSport,Dahon Speed Pro TT,Brompton S6L/S2E-X