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Someone tried to steal my bike...

Old 09-11-06, 01:51 AM
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Someone tried to steal my bike...

Hello I am new to these forums. I ride too and from work in downtown Phoenix five times a week. I did alot of reasearch before choosing the locks to protect my Giant FCR1. I put silicone in all the bolts and screws. I use a On Guard Bulldog mini connecting the front wheel to the downtube. And a On Guard beast chain, the big one wrapped around the seat tube and rear wheel than around a parking meter so it can not be lifted over it. It's heavy but I felt safe leaving my bike like that. A few days ago when i went to unlock my bike and ride home I noticed the chain had two large indentations in it. Looked like it was done by large bolt cutters. They did not prevail. They are pretty deep like a 1/4 inch in total counting both sides. So I am looking for a new chain to replace this one. I want the finest security chain for my bike that can't be damaged so easily. I first considered the Krypto Fahgettaboudit. But it seems the chain is very difficult to cut but the lock isn't. So I have I have been snooping around the net and found this chain. https://www.*****-security-chains.co....php?product=51 It seemed like it is probably the best, although its extremely heavy 30 pounds! Before I found this siite I was looking at the Abus Granit extreme. But according this place it can be cut in 12 seconds by large bolt cutters. Any thoughts. What chain would you choose to protect your bike? I've only been looking at chains with a padlock with a shrouded shackle. Any advice aprreciated....
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Old 09-11-06, 02:05 AM
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Do you have a link about the Abus Granit being cut?

EDIT: I found it....they cut chains with hydraulic cutters....not a likely tool for bike thieves.......

https://www.*****-security-chains.co.uk/wallofshame.php
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Old 09-11-06, 02:53 AM
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It seems your locking strategy worked the way it is supposed to work. Why not just buy a new OnGuard chain and use whatever lock you used with the current one?

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Old 09-11-06, 07:53 AM
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Why not just buy a beater bike that weighs 44 pounds and ride it? What is the point of riding a nice light bike if you have to haul twice as much weight in locks to protect it?..

If you can't take your bike inside with you, which is the best option, aren't there any bike lockers in Phoenix near where you work? https://www.cycle-safe.com/UserFiles/.../csPhoenix.pdf
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Old 09-11-06, 08:07 AM
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Well that web site is obviously an advertisement for their lock; whether or not their accurate about that report is anyone's guess. Krypto says their NY chain Fahgettaboudit lock is the best...but that's their advertisement.

But I would say that if the OnGuard worked then why not go back to that? I happen to think you should replace the U lock with the Krypto NY Fahgettaboudit because I saw test resultes somewhere that concluded it to be the toughest U bolt made; the BullDog mini was easily defeated.

BUT, keep in mind, any lock can be defeated, and if a pro wants your bike-they got it. If your really concerned about the security of your bike, buy a cheap Wallyworld bike or a used bike and ride that to work instead, nobody bothers those.

Lock wise your doing the right thing by having 2 locks on it and using a parking meter to lock to, as long as they can't lift the bike over it once the U bolt is defeated.

Here is a link to Sheldon Brown that discusses this subject as well but uses a mini U. Keep in mind with a larger U bolt you can remove the front tire and lock it with the rear tire and frame to the meter, this will prevent the front wheel from getting stolen; then use the chain to lock all of that again. https://www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html

Last edited by froze; 09-11-06 at 04:13 PM.
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Old 09-11-06, 08:33 AM
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You might also try the method shown in the last photo on this page: https://www.mechbgon.com/lock If you can find a parking meter that's 1 meter from a streetlight pole, for example, then lock the front wheel & frame to the streetlight pole with your chain, then lock the rear wheel & frame to the parking meter with your U-lock (might need a longer-shackle U-lock however).

If the thief can see at a glance that he's got to cut BOTH your locks on the spot before the bike is going anywhere, he's probably going to look for easier prey.
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Old 09-11-06, 10:03 AM
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"Cycling Plus" tests locks, as does soldsecure.com. Both have found that the Kryptonite New York u-lock, and the OnGuard Beast u-lock protect as well as the very best chains, and weigh half as much. The tests of chains showed some odd results. A very tough padlock would be sold with a mediocre chain. A very tough chain would get sold with a mediocre padlock.

The new Kryptonite Fahgettaboudit u-lock may be the very best lock easily found in the USA. It is big enough to get around the rear wheel (just behind the seat tube) and a beefy locking post. But not so big that a crook can insert effective breaking tools. No chain/padlock set-up is likely to provide a higher level of security.

www.soldsecure.com/Leisure.htm
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Old 09-11-06, 10:29 AM
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am I the only one put off by the ***** chain's price? $260 for a chain?
costs almost as much as my bike.
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Old 09-11-06, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by BrianJ1888
am I the only one put off by the ***** chain's price? $260 for a chain?
costs almost as much as my bike.
Umm... that's more than 5x what I paid for my bike. I'll stick to my $13 Kryptonite cable, thank you.

and before you all spout off how easy it is to cut... I DON'T CARE! The bike is inside at night AND at work... the only time it's locked up outside is when I'm in a store, and then I lock it up right by the front door, and I don't go in neighborhoods where everybody is carrying a pair of bolt cutters in their back pocket.
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Old 09-11-06, 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by bmclaughlin807
Umm... that's more than 5x what I paid for my bike. I'll stick to my $13 Kryptonite cable, thank you.

and before you all spout off how easy it is to cut... I DON'T CARE! The bike is inside at night AND at work... the only time it's locked up outside is when I'm in a store, and then I lock it up right by the front door, and I don't go in neighborhoods where everybody is carrying a pair of bolt cutters in their back pocket.
Same here I spent 50 dollars on my commuter, (I finally DID IT! commuted to my school) I would spend that money on a lock instead of having to walk home
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Old 09-11-06, 04:24 PM
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Can anyone evaluate the differences between this Kryptonite (Kryptonite New York Chain"Disc"U lock)

https://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll..._promot_widget

and this one (Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit)
https://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll..._promot_widget

The best I can tell is that they use the same chain but different locks?? Is that right?? Is the less expensive one close to being as effective??
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Old 09-11-06, 04:43 PM
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The chains are different. The Fuhgettaboudit is thicker (11mm) and six-sided. The New York is 10mm and four-sided. That probably accounts for the price difference. Both are heat-treated manganese steel and tougher than hell. Just a sliver of width in the links makes a leverage attack very difficult.

The locks are roughly the same. They both have reinforced crossbars. I'm not certain the Fuhgettaboudit has the pivoting shackle that the New York does. The New York's dust cover roatates. The Fuhgettaboudit's slides. That's about it.

I carry the New York around my waist. Six-point-one pounds.

Last edited by Lot's Knife; 09-11-06 at 05:03 PM.
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Old 09-11-06, 04:54 PM
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Thanks. I think I'm comfy with the NY then.
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Old 09-11-06, 04:55 PM
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I lock my bike with a 1mm thin cable and a TSA approved luggage lock. My bike never gets messed with. I augment the lock with the head on a stem mounted spike cut off the last bike thief who made a go of it. They eyes double as blinkies too!
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Old 09-11-06, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by chephy
Why not just buy a beater bike that weighs 44 pounds and ride it? What is the point of riding a nice light bike if you have to haul twice as much weight in locks to protect it?..
Hey, my Schwinn Varsity weighs exactly 44 pounds! That doesn't stop everyone, I've caught two tweakers on separate occasions trying to steal it. One of them was bashing at the lock with a nice SLR style digital camera. Probably needed a ride to the pawn shop to sell the camera he just stole. Who knows. I just started loading my grocery racks without saying anything, and he scampered off like Gollum. Nasty bicycle man interrupts us, yes precious.

Anyway, I guess I had a point. I carry two good locks, on all of my bikes. Even a thirty pound bike with two locks is still 14 pounds lighter than a Varsity with two locks. Either one will be preferable to walking home, no matter how much those locks weigh.
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Old 09-11-06, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by chephy
Why not just buy a beater bike that weighs 44 pounds and ride it? What is the point of riding a nice light bike if you have to haul twice as much weight in locks to protect it?..
I once saw a discussion of the rampant bike theivery going on in Amsterdam. They said that in Amsterdam, all bikes weigh 40 pounds. You can buy a 10 pound racing bike and you need 30 pounds of locks to keep it safe, or a 30 pound bike and only a 10 pound bike. Or you can buy a 40 pound bike and the thieves won't even look at it.
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Old 09-11-06, 06:42 PM
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The no-name chains I've seen in Amsterdam are the thickness of the Kryptonite chains referenced above, usually secured with a big molly lock. In small towns to the south, people use just their integral ring locks, linguini-thin cables or nothing at all.
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Old 09-11-06, 08:23 PM
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Does anybody pay attention to the warranties attached to these locks? I just bought the cheapest lock that had enough built in insurance to cover the price of my bike.
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Old 09-12-06, 01:32 AM
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Originally Posted by KnhoJ
I just started loading my grocery racks without saying anything, and he scampered off like Gollum. Nasty bicycle man interrupts us, yes precious.


Thanks, now I get to start the day by wiping my morning tea off the monitor.

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Old 09-12-06, 02:40 AM
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Originally Posted by wmcmiii
Does anybody pay attention to the warranties attached to these locks? I just bought the cheapest lock that had enough built in insurance to cover the price of my bike.
Problem is, if the thief is not obliging enough to leave the compromised lock at the scene, or some of the paperwork isn't spot on, you're SOL. I'd prefer having my bike to having a claim. (BTW, with my Abus sinus, I won't even have a claim if she gets jacked... Just saying that I have zero trust in warranties.)

BTW, OP: Your bike was there after a theft attempt... What more do you want from a bike lock? Why do you want to go bigger? Why do you think that a claim made by a manufacturer about its competition has any foundation whatsoever??? Abus, Krypto and OnGuard will all serve you well. U-lock, preferably.
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Old 09-12-06, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by wmcmiii
Does anybody pay attention to the warranties attached to these locks? I just bought the cheapest lock that had enough built in insurance to cover the price of my bike.
Have YOU paid attention to these warranties?

These warranties and insurance for bike and/or lock replacement are almost never paid out because of all the hoops you have to go through to get them to pay! First you have to have a police report, then you have to have photos of the undisturbed crime scene including photos of the locks in position around whatever you attached it to, then you have to send the lock company your destroyed lock, then you have to have your original receipt and the original package the lock came it with the barcode intact, plus a receipt for the bike; you don't have just one item of this stuff they don't pay. And then if the company determines that somehow or another you did not lock your bike up correctly-they don't pay, meaning they don't pay for the bike or the lock.

And if that's not enough, the insurance aspect of the lock is only good for a set period of time usually 1 year after purchase, so either you have to renew the insurance or you have to buy a new lock to get new insurance coverage-or they don't pay. Don't let the warranty of the lock which is usually lifetime fool you into thinking the insurance is also good for that long because it's not.

Your best bet is to have homeowners or renters insurance with contents replacement to offset depreciation, but even then your going to have a deductable of at least $500, plus you still need a police report and the receipt for the bike, sometimes insurance companies will take a detailed photo of the bike as proof of ownership and the to see the quality of the bike.
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Old 09-12-06, 08:40 AM
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I think the best approach here would be to keep the thief from trying in the first place. If you can find two poles 1 meter apart and use the double-locking technique, that ought to be a deterrent. And with one chain lock plus one U-lock, you can put the chain lock around something big like a streetlight pole.

Otherwise, you could move up to three locks. Bulldog mini for your frame & front wheel, Kryptonite Evolution LS Mini through your rear wheel & chainstays and around the parking meter, and then your chain lock also through your rear wheel & chainstays and around the parking meter. Again, the prospect of defeating two locks before being able to take the bike ought to send them looking for an easier mark.

If you can leave some of the locks at your parking point, or at least at your workplace's loading dock or something, then you don't have to tote them around all the time.
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Old 09-12-06, 10:00 AM
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What would stop someone from whacking the top off the parking meter and lifting your bike over the top? I see meters missing quite a bit. Signs on a meter pole could be shredded off too. I'd always lock to something more substantial.
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Old 09-12-06, 10:35 AM
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I use an OnGuard Rottweiller with integrated lock. Much the same as bmclaughlin807 stated above: My bike is in my apartment or in my cube when I'm not riding it on commute. Otherwise, I'm locking it to a rack or a metal-pipe railing outside a storefront for 10 minutes, in an area not known for having a high instance of bike theft.
I lock through my rear wheel and frame, don't lock my front QR wheel, and don't have theft deterrent BBs glued in all my allen bolts. When I lived in Cincinnati and locked it in cr@p locations, I used a heavier U-lock through the rear wheel/frame/detatched front wheel, and secured everything I could.
It's a matter of location, thieves' determination levels, and your desire to protect your ride that should determine which lock setup is best for you. Sounds to me like the lock setup you've got did the job: There's scar marks, but no one made off with your whip, so it's all good.
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Old 09-12-06, 12:29 PM
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You would be surprised what people steel just to steel given a chance. A beater bike is likely to walk too if it is not adequately clamped down. The only good thing is that you are not out as much money.
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