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When I was commuting over to Tampa ever day I had a run of 6 miles unimpeded ride. I was averaging 26 mph down that run. Of course that was not on the Denali. It was on my Peugeot Pb-14 and it had a full commuter load of front bag and rear rack/trunk bag.
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In your opinion, if you had a choice between this bike and say the dawes 1k or the winsor dover which would you choose and why? I'm not rich, and I ride pretty rough sometimes, I've had my denali for about a month now and I already took a hard spill and obliterated the derailer. It cost me 30 bucks to have a new tourney derailer put on. I don't know if that was an upgrade or a downgrade from the original but it works. For me I don't have the money to replace expensive components all the time so having more affordable parts is a real plus. If I may, I do have some questions as I'm very new to the bike world. Is there a part of this bike that will wear out and I can't replace? Also seems the frame is decently durable, and attractive so is it worth replacing things that are heavy (seat, front fork, bars), adding new gears etc or is this going to wear out and should I save up for the dawes or winsor? I know it's a cheap WM bike with semi mountainbike gears but given the actual components how does it compare to other "cheap" roadbikes?
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Originally Posted by fender1
Who the heck wants to get to work as fast as they can**********
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n2t,
I just got through replacing the rear deraileur with a Shimano RSX Long cage deraileur. Got it on Ebay for $9.99 used. Now it shifts so smooth that it's like a hole defferent bike. Belive me when I say that the stock deraileur is a POS. Even with the Shimano Revo shifters it shifts alot better now with the RSX deraileur. I have not got the Shimano RSX shifters in yet, but any day now and I'll have them. The RSX line of Shimano parts where replaced with the 105 line. As for the tourney derailer, it looks to be a step or two better then the stock deraileur. But then again I have never used the tourney derailer. The stock deraileur on the Denali is not even shown Shimano web site. That's how bad it is !. As for the average commuter that rides 5 miles to work and back. It does not make a lot of sents to buy a $600 bike that won't see five-mile commutes to each day. And you as you pointed out, not a lot of people want to replace expensive parts on their commuter bike. This is why it started this thread/review in the first place. To let people know that they don't have to buy an thousand dollars bike to start commuting on. However, if you're going to use the bike or commuting and weekend road rides. Then you may want to get $1000 bike. Also commuter bike's need to be able to carry the load of the rider and all the commuter necessities. So a 14 lbs - $2000 bike does not really fit the commuter's needs. |
True but the bikes I named were sub 400 dollar bikes new and shipped. In the real world how do these compare to the denali? I won't ever own a 1k bike. To much I don't have that kind of free money laying around, to many other expensive hobbies. I ride 10 miles a day or so, plus some just for fun. Is there anything on the denali that is going to wear out beyond repair at some point? And is there really going to be any improvement if I were to move up to say a dawes lightning or a windsor dover? Or would the denali and a few parts make a better or as good bike? The shimano tourney shifter works, and is cheap, cheap bike cheap parts and sofar it's been bomb proof I'm very impressed with it.
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I think the low end parts, ie.. Deraileurs, crankset and brake levers, will ware out. Just like any low end or high end parts. But you should be able to replacement parts because they are all off-the-shelf parts. And the frame has a lifetime warranty. So you should to be able to replace all the parts as needed for or wanted.
See I figured for $150 that the frame his worth that. |
Wow, 780 posts and counting. I have yet to find this $147.77 at my local Wally World or any of the ones around my area. I found a bike for $329.77 that was a GMC Denali rode bike and also a "Carbon" Schwinn that was $444.44 at WM. I am interested to see what the difference in components are between the two bikes.
Coming from an area where people try to Craigslist their rusted old Univegas and Nishikis for $300+ (and a steel Dawes tank for $350) I would have considered this bike if I were a little on the short side with cash but needed something to get to work or to the store and back. It is the cheapest NEW road bike I have heard about which to a new (albeit uninformed) cyclist or commuter is going to put it lengths ahead of a used bike. I don't know about $800 in upgrades right off the bat, but if a person were to repair/replace parts with better quality ones as needed then what is the big deal. |
Yes wearing out I can deal with I was worried there was some part/component of this bike so poorly done or obscure that when it gave out it was not replaceable and would render the bike done. Sounds like I made a good choice I'll probably never put high end parts on it, but for a comuter it'll work great. Maybe someday if I get the money I'll upgrade to a dawes or a windsor from bikes direct but as of now, I'm not even convinced either of these are upgrades. Thanks for the review, been a great bike sofar, and from the sounds of it will be in the future. What's your milage up to at this point?
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All the parts on the drive train are Shimano (very low end). But there are Shimano. The crankset is a powerwheel made (still low end). I have over 4500 miles on the stock parts and there are still running fine. I 'm starting to replace the deraileurs with Shimano RSX 7 speed parts just yesterday. And what a defference it makes.
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Well next time buy a dawes lightning 1000 from bikes direct for 369 bucks. It's got shimano 2200 parts and a comparison between this bike, and an affordable "real" road bike would be very interesting. I would love two know how this bike compares to an affordable non xmart bike and if for less money it can be made into more bike. Ie, 369 for the dawes lighting but with 100 bucks in new parts (shifters, bars, breaks, etc) is the denali "better". I also don't know what the deal is with why people hate the grifters, they seem to function just fine even if they do take up bar space. Well keep the review going.
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Originally Posted by n2t
In your opinion, if you had a choice between this bike and say the dawes 1k or the winsor dover which would you choose and why? I'm not rich, and I ride pretty rough sometimes, I've had my denali for about a month now and I already took a hard spill and obliterated the derailer. It cost me 30 bucks to have a new tourney derailer put on. I don't know if that was an upgrade or a downgrade from the original but it works. For me I don't have the money to replace expensive components all the time so having more affordable parts is a real plus. If I may, I do have some questions as I'm very new to the bike world. Is there a part of this bike that will wear out and I can't replace? Also seems the frame is decently durable, and attractive so is it worth replacing things that are heavy (seat, front fork, bars), adding new gears etc or is this going to wear out and should I save up for the dawes or winsor? I know it's a cheap WM bike with semi mountainbike gears but given the actual components how does it compare to other "cheap" roadbikes?
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Originally Posted by n2t
Well next time buy a dawes lightning 1000 from bikes direct for 369 bucks. It's got shimano 2200 parts and a comparison between this bike, and an affordable "real" road bike would be very interesting. I would love two know how this bike compares to an affordable non xmart bike and if for less money it can be made into more bike. Ie, 369 for the dawes lighting but with 100 bucks in new parts (shifters, bars, breaks, etc) is the denali "better". I also don't know what the deal is with why people hate the grifters, they seem to function just fine even if they do take up bar space. Well keep the review going.
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why though what makes one more desireable, weight isn't a big factor, what's the diff that makes the dawes the better choice?
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Originally Posted by n2t
why though what makes one more desireable, weight isn't a big factor, what's the diff that makes the dawes the better choice?
I got toe clips with the dawes. I had to buy them for the denali (as a matter of fact you will probably have to buy pedals when you get the denali because the pedals are narrow...). now the dawes is a 14 speed bike with stem shifters but I do prefer them to the "grip shifts" on the denali partially because I put stuff on the bars (cheapo cycle computer, forward blinkie, and bicycle bag...) oh and because the dawes uses a more conventional shifter, the brake cable is taped along with the bar whereas the denal requires the cable to hang thru the tape. Something you have to get used to when changing grips on the bar... the denali is not a bad value for the money - denali 147.00 the dawes is a better bike - 240.00 (including the shipping...) |
Alright one month and the Denali is gone lol. I didn't dislike it. And I'm still keeping it. It's going to my girlfriend who isn't that into biking or sweating for that matter. But I wanted something with at least brifters. So I figured vs. spending the money upgrading this bike I could buy a different bike. I liked my Denali. And I still do. Don't regret the purchase in the least. I did replace the grip tape with Bonrager Gel Tape (Blue). Also pumped the tires up to 120 psi and it rides a lot nicer. Here is my recommended upgrades if you buy this bike:
Replace the rim tape. (It'll take like 20 minutes total to do both wheels, worth the time, I had a blowout on both tires in the middle of nowhere) Buy Schrader to Presta Rim Collars (LBS will have them) Buy four Presta tubes long valve stem (700C x 23/28) Remove rim tape Loosen brake levers and move the up to a correct position and tighten (if you don't know how it's an allen screw inside the brake lever, from the front there is a slit in the brake lever that's where the screw is) Move shifters in closer to the collar Replace new rim tape Adjust derailleurs Total time might be two hours for the whole thing to get it right. The reason? Well moving the brake levers up a little is good because I find that the install them a little too low to ride with your hands resting on them. The shifters have about 1/4-1/2 inch between them and the collar (That's real estate for your hands). As far as tubes are concerned it's really hard to come by long schrader valve tubes (can you say impossible) unless you call Kent Bikes directly and buy them from them. If you install presta you can buy them at almost any bike store in the size you need. And the rim tape just sucks. Like bad. Heed warning on that one because when you end up in the middle of nowhere with a flat and you change it only to get another flat you'll start getting pissed off (experience). That's all. I think the value of the bike is great. The ride is very nice. Being heavier it feels sturdy when riding it. P.S. Don't be afraid to inflate the tires higher than the recommended PSI on the side. I would put at least 110 psi in the tires for a nice ride. |
I try to keep my tires up around 95 to 100 psi. It gives a lot better ride then the 85 psi maked on the tire.
See I have a nice bike. I know the defference between it and a low end bike. But that's not the purpose of this review. And I wanted the frame more then any thing on this bike. |
Originally Posted by CigTech
I think the low end parts, ie.. Deraileurs, crankset and brake levers, will ware out. Just like any low end or high end parts. But you should be able to replacement parts because they are all off-the-shelf parts. And the frame has a lifetime warranty. So you should to be able to replace all the parts as needed for or wanted.
See I figured for $150 that the frame his worth that. |
Originally Posted by froze
I having a hard time following this tread so help me out here. The frame your speaking of is it new or used? If used you do not have a lifetime warranty. The lifetime warranty of any bike frame follows the original purchaser only, and only if you have a receipt proving your the original owner.
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Originally Posted by CigTech
I try to keep my tires up around 95 to 100 psi. It gives a lot better ride then the 85 psi maked on the tire.
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Originally Posted by jmarkley710
But I wanted something with at least brifters.
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There is also the denali limited for around 500 thought I've seen it as low as 199 that is carbon. After calling kent bikes they claim it's just window dressing and that neither will perform any better than the 147 dollar denali.
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Originally Posted by n2t
There is also the denali limited for around 500 thought I've seen it as low as 199 that is carbon. After calling kent bikes they claim it's just window dressing and that neither will perform any better than the 147 dollar denali.
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And, I went to Wal-Mart today, to get a couple tires (hey, I'm cheap, and I needed tires now.)
They had both the Denali and the Denali Pro (which I don't think has been mentioned in this thread.) The Pro was $329, though. :eek: Differences I noticed? It had brifters instead of the twist shifters. It had slicker tires. It didn't have the crazy wheels of the regular Denali, so you could use a regular Schrader tube. It had an "Aluminum Series 6000" frame. What that means, don't ask me. But, it seems that it wasn't the same type as the regular Denali. |
Originally Posted by bhtooefr
And, I went to Wal-Mart today, to get a couple tires (hey, I'm cheap, and I needed tires now.)
They had both the Denali and the Denali Pro (which I don't think has been mentioned in this thread.) The Pro was $329, though. :eek: Differences I noticed? It had brifters instead of the twist shifters. It had slicker tires. It didn't have the crazy wheels of the regular Denali, so you could use a regular Schrader tube. It had an "Aluminum Series 6000" frame. What that means, don't ask me. But, it seems that it wasn't the same type as the regular Denali. |
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The Denali Pro is a lot like more like GMC Yukon XL. It only has 16 speeds where the Denali has 21 speeds. have the Shimano Sora STI L2/R8 shifters. The Yukon has the same frame has the Denali. The Denali Limited has Aluminum fork ***** with Carbon Fiber a long with the seat stay, for looks more then any thing.
Here is the specs for the Denali Limited (Pro): Frame: Aluminum with Carbon Fiber Seat Stay Color: Yellow and Red Fork: ADK AFKO 700 C Alloy Steerer with Carbon Straight Blades Forged End F. Derailleur: Shimano RD-2200 SMART CAGE FOR 8-SPEED, DIRECT ATTACHMENT R. Derailleur: RD-2200 SMART CAGE FOR 8-SPEED, DIRECT ATTACHMENT Shifters: Shimano ST-3300L2/R8 FOR 16-S, STI SHIFTER W/INNERS, BLACK HOODED SILVER LEVER Crankset: Shimano 170MM ALLOY SILVER Bottom Bracket: M-1 SEMI-CARTRIDGE BB, 68MM Wheels: 700C Silver Andonized W/CNC Sidewall Alloy Hubs with QR Handlebar: Deda-Big-Piega-6061 Aluminum Stem: 100MM Pedals: VP-397T PP BLACK BODY ALLOY SILVER CAGE, 9/16" BORON AXLE, BS Tires: Kenda K-152 700X25C DARK S/W 27TPI WITH SILVER BAND Brakes: Tektro 510A ALLOY BARREL SILVER CALIPER BRAKE, OPC SHOE Seat Post: 27.2MMX300MM, ALLOY Frame Size: 20", 22" and 25" And here is a picture of it. |
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