Salvation Army
#1
500 Watts
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Salvation Army
I was thinking about buying a beater (or something else, depending on what I find) at the local Salvo. What should I look for in the bikes to make sure I'm getting something reasonably commute-worthy without having to do any more than, say, change the chain and de-rust some components?
Thanks
Thanks
#3
Newbie
I've bought a few beaters from places like the Salvation Army, and you have to sometimes get 2 or 3 bikes in order to be able to assemble one that works properly.
Took me 2 bikes in order to be able to scrounge one that works decently. From 1 I ended up taking the frame and crankset. I removed the derailleur and brakes (I was convering to fixed gear). From the other, I managed to salvage the handlebars and wheels.
... but, I'm sure you can find a bike that was hardly used. I found a few of those recently, but never end up buying them due to lack of space.
Took me 2 bikes in order to be able to scrounge one that works decently. From 1 I ended up taking the frame and crankset. I removed the derailleur and brakes (I was convering to fixed gear). From the other, I managed to salvage the handlebars and wheels.
... but, I'm sure you can find a bike that was hardly used. I found a few of those recently, but never end up buying them due to lack of space.
#4
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I purchased a couple of beaters at a Goodwill once. I was building a dog cart (a trailer for the dog to pull) and needed some front wheels. It was cheaper than purchasing them anywhere else. The bikes remains eventualluy ended up hanging in my garage for years. If you have time and room for all of the bikes you will haver to strip in order to get a good set of parts it would make a good learning exercise in wrenching.
However, most of the bikes at those places are department store bikes thatthe original owner got tired of fixing, or was unable to fix. A lot of the ones I looked at were not even usable for a front wheel. Yes, I was careful only to pick ones that were worthless for anything other than the wheel.
However, most of the bikes at those places are department store bikes thatthe original owner got tired of fixing, or was unable to fix. A lot of the ones I looked at were not even usable for a front wheel. Yes, I was careful only to pick ones that were worthless for anything other than the wheel.
#5
500 Watts
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I am wary of the department store bikes. I was planning on finding some bikes and simply using the frame to convert to a SS. I'd probably have to find a rear hub at my LBS and a new chain/brake system etc... yeah
thanks
thanks
#6
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Originally Posted by kill.cactus
...What should I look for in the bikes to make sure I'm getting something reasonably commute-worthy without having to do any more than, say, change the chain and de-rust some components?
But you never know what will turn up once you start looking. I fixed up a $5 tandem once, also a bike I got free at a garage sale, and a junker my son gave to me. Look into the Bicycle Mechanics sub forum to read about the kinds of problems you can run into.
#7
Newbie
I recommend you go the craigslist way. I tried the Salvation Army route, but found the craigslist route to be much better.
#8
beam and bikes
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It all depends on the selection available at the time you go. I rarely have luck in finding a bike at all at my local goodwill, however my neighbor snagged a 3 spd. Western Flyer for $5 in good working order a few weeks ago.
Also, I've bult some solid winter beater ss/fixies out of department store bikes. Think of it this way. Most have horizontal drop-outs, solves chain tension problems. The 1 piece crank is a solid part and the stamped chainrings can usually be swapped of for a single ring found on older BMXs. Granted the pedals are 1/2" which limits pedal options, but I ride platforms in the snow anyway.
This years beater is (when I get my act together) starting w/ a crusty Paramount ATB frame and fork. Horizontal drops, Ashtabula crank, a typical x-mart bike. Then a 1 piece cruiser crankset is replacing the triple. The stock front wheel is OK, the rear will be a basic 135mm flip-flop hub laced to a cheap sun or alex rim. Mostly everything else will remain stock, h-bar,stem, seat, etc. No derailler or brakes as it will be a low geared fixie for snowy days. Then when the frame rusts out, off to find another one and swap out the parts. Granted this takes a few years as I keep my winter bike some-what clean. This plan has worked for a few of us over the last few winters. I guess w/ a long commute it wouldn't be the best way, but its solid for around town and campus.
Craig
Also, I've bult some solid winter beater ss/fixies out of department store bikes. Think of it this way. Most have horizontal drop-outs, solves chain tension problems. The 1 piece crank is a solid part and the stamped chainrings can usually be swapped of for a single ring found on older BMXs. Granted the pedals are 1/2" which limits pedal options, but I ride platforms in the snow anyway.
This years beater is (when I get my act together) starting w/ a crusty Paramount ATB frame and fork. Horizontal drops, Ashtabula crank, a typical x-mart bike. Then a 1 piece cruiser crankset is replacing the triple. The stock front wheel is OK, the rear will be a basic 135mm flip-flop hub laced to a cheap sun or alex rim. Mostly everything else will remain stock, h-bar,stem, seat, etc. No derailler or brakes as it will be a low geared fixie for snowy days. Then when the frame rusts out, off to find another one and swap out the parts. Granted this takes a few years as I keep my winter bike some-what clean. This plan has worked for a few of us over the last few winters. I guess w/ a long commute it wouldn't be the best way, but its solid for around town and campus.
Craig
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I've found people dumping their old Schwinns at the Salvo. World Sport, Letour, Criss Cross...they all make for decent commuters. You don't find this quality at the "big box" stores. Trouble is, as mentioned, is your timing for scoring a good bike.
#10
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I love prospecting for bikes at the thrift stores, but the local Sally Ann (I don't know what this "Salvo" thing is) has pretty poor selection--although it did have a matched pair of low-end three speeds I wish I'd bought. I'd say the vast majority of the bikes are crap, although another thrift store seemed to have an endless supply of low to mid end Fujis.
What you should look for depends on your preferences and how you're going to use the bike, but if you're a bit patient and figure out when new stuff comes in, you can find pearls in the muck. At the risk of repeating info you know:
Generally, forged as opposed to stamped dropouts are a good indicator of a decent-quality bike, even better if the dropouts have adjusters. Also, the type of tubing (double butted 4130 cro-mo is pretty much a reliable bottom line in road bikes), and level of components are useful indicators of a bike made with care vs. a bike made just to make a buck. The classic & vintage forum and sheldon brown are your friends.
After that, it's up to you what's a make or a break: steel/aluminium; relaxed/tight geometry; rack & fender eyelets; suspension, etc.; whether you care to replace that bent fork/wheels, whether you can deal with the top tube dent, etc.
What you should look for depends on your preferences and how you're going to use the bike, but if you're a bit patient and figure out when new stuff comes in, you can find pearls in the muck. At the risk of repeating info you know:
Generally, forged as opposed to stamped dropouts are a good indicator of a decent-quality bike, even better if the dropouts have adjusters. Also, the type of tubing (double butted 4130 cro-mo is pretty much a reliable bottom line in road bikes), and level of components are useful indicators of a bike made with care vs. a bike made just to make a buck. The classic & vintage forum and sheldon brown are your friends.
After that, it's up to you what's a make or a break: steel/aluminium; relaxed/tight geometry; rack & fender eyelets; suspension, etc.; whether you care to replace that bent fork/wheels, whether you can deal with the top tube dent, etc.
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OT: I work for The Salvation Army. The nicknames vary from "Sally Ann" in Canada, "Sally Army" in the New Zealand and the UK, and the "Salvos" in Australia and the US. Our non-thrift store buildings are also referred to as "churches," "corps," and "community centers."
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Avoid cottered cranks. Bike shops are reluctant to work on them and spare parts are hard to find.
I'm in the middle of fixing a cotter problem with my old bike. The only solution I like seems to involve replacing not just the cotter pin but also the old bottom bracket and crankset with modern components. The eventual cost will be around $200.
I'm in the middle of fixing a cotter problem with my old bike. The only solution I like seems to involve replacing not just the cotter pin but also the old bottom bracket and crankset with modern components. The eventual cost will be around $200.
#13
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Reading this thread, after being around some of the thrift stores looking, makes me realise just how little I know about bikes... Heh. I like the tips, learns me good!
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I've had better luck with Graig's List than Goodwill, Salvation Army or St VDP. Someone mentioned "frame size". One mistake I made was I was too focused on getting the right frame size and missed many chances to get a small framed bike with some decent components. And then swap those components on to a larger frame later on. So as another poster wrote, you may have to get 2 or 3 bikes to make one good one. Also, don't expect to find one right away. Keep checking back at the thrift shops on a regular basis. It may take over a year.
On Tuesday our local thrift store had a 99 cent bike sale. None were rideable, but I did get a 3 speed hub on an unrideable old Colombia. Strange thing was, the bike was so bad but the tires were still good. Usually you always have to get new tires on thrift bikes.
On Tuesday our local thrift store had a 99 cent bike sale. None were rideable, but I did get a 3 speed hub on an unrideable old Colombia. Strange thing was, the bike was so bad but the tires were still good. Usually you always have to get new tires on thrift bikes.
#17
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I saw two at our local thrift store today, one, a made in china huffy mtb and a smaller 24" mtb with a name like Manticore or something like it. Left them both there.
I was given four medium/small kids bikes. One rather nice one had a crank with one side with worn out threads where the pedals screw on. I'm going to braze the pedal on next chance I get and let my kid wear it out.
Steven
I was given four medium/small kids bikes. One rather nice one had a crank with one side with worn out threads where the pedals screw on. I'm going to braze the pedal on next chance I get and let my kid wear it out.
Steven
#18
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The Goodwill bike section last weekend: A Huffy something-or-other, another Huffy something, and there at the end was a '91 or '92 Fuji Sagres in my wife's size. Needed the handlebars aligned and new tires and grips. $20. I was wheeling it towards the cashier when I saw the mint condition InStep Bike Trailer for $25.
I even got them both to fit in my little Honda. My wife and kids are Very Pleased.
Learn the names of the good manufacturers, and try to hit the thrift stores in better areas of town where the locals won't necessarily be as interested in grabbing a cheap bike. I'll leave identification of working/quality componentry to forum members more knowledgeable than I am.
I even got them both to fit in my little Honda. My wife and kids are Very Pleased.
Learn the names of the good manufacturers, and try to hit the thrift stores in better areas of town where the locals won't necessarily be as interested in grabbing a cheap bike. I'll leave identification of working/quality componentry to forum members more knowledgeable than I am.
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Went back to the animal rescue thrift store and the manticore was sold but they have a Trek 4100 Alpha. It has front suspension but needs some care. (oil)
They also had some bikes with really fat tubes, no names and really used.
Steven
They also had some bikes with really fat tubes, no names and really used.
Steven