KevinSours

I've been commuting by bicycle pretty much full time since I got my current job about a year ago. Its 7.5 miles each way, but I can take the train for 3.5 miles of it (I'm doing that less and less these days). I'm currently riding a Giant OCR3, which I got a few years ago. Generally speaking I've been happy with it. The ride is comfortable enough, its held up well to some not always well paved streets, and its light enough to haul up the stairs to the train. I do have a few specific complaints that have me toying with getting a new bike.

1) Whenever the pedals turn backward, the front gears downshift and the chain eventually pops off the gears. This tends to happen when hauling up the aforementioned stairs.

2) I get the general sense that the components aren't the highest quality and I could perhaps get a better ride with better gear (though what I know about quality parts could fill a thimble, which is why I'm here).

3) This is the big one. I'm hitting the top gear with some regularity and occasionally reaching for one that isn't there. I figure I'll need to do something about that sooner or later.

Other considerations.
* I'm a bit over 200 pounds, so nothing too fragile.
* I'm definitely looking for a road bike (I did a commute on a hybrid several years ago and prefer my current bike).
* Anything requiring complicated maintenance is probably a bad idea.
* My ride is pretty flat with a couple of low but moderately steep hills depending on my route. Tends to be dry and a bit dusty in the summer, occasional rain in the winter (its basically Los Angeles). I'm also a few miles from the ocean if that should matter.
* I don't really do much riding outside of my commute.
* I'm not that price sensitive. I'm definitely willing to pay for quality, but I don't really need anything overly extravagant. I definitely don't care to spend for flashy or pretty.

So guys, what am I looking for?
Kevin

ax0n

1) sounds like a bike shop tune-up would fix that.

2) The OCR3 is pretty much Giant's entry level road bike. It's comparable to like a Trek 1000. Are you having mechanical issues aside from the aforementioned chain problems? I took the step up from considering a Trek 1000 to going for the 1200 instead, which offers nicer shifters and a slight bump up on components. If your components aren't failing, and it can be adjusted, you might just fall in love with your bike all over again.

3) New cassette. I'd bet if you could get an 11-whatever cassette on it as opposed to the 12-tooth top gear, you'd have more high-end.


That said, if you're looking to make the jump, I wouldn't personally make a little jump, like to an OCR1. I think I'd have my sights set a little higher than that. Cassettes are cheap. You might just take it in for a tune-up, get a cassette slapped on that's geared a little better and see how she fares. That's inexpensive enough to not seriously dent your budget if you still feel your current bike is substandard for your needs.

Of course, you asked for an opinion and this is my own. I'm sure several will disagree.

RonH

Front (and maybe rear) derailleur adjustment time.

Since you commute regularly it's not a bad idea to learn at least basic bike maintenance.
If you have LOTS of time and cash to spend at the bike shop, don't worry about learning anything about your bike.

KevinSours

I've had it in at various times to a few shops for adjustment. Maybe I haven't been asking the right questions, but its don't that since I got it.

Shrug. I can do a little. I just don't have the time or energy these days to do anything more than the very basics.
Kevin

pieholden

It seems the only issues you have are drivetrain related. You could remedy these by replacing by:
a) adjusting the front derailleur
b)replacing the drivetrain to give you a bigger gear.
it doesn't sound like you need a whole new biek to me. unless you just want one which is the best reason to get one

Staggerwing

City commuting can be some of the dirtiest biking around. How often are you cleaning and lubing your chain as a dirty, gritty chain could easily be some of your issue? I only commute 10 miles round trip per day, but notice my chain getting noisy after 150 miles or so. If I do a couple of wet commutes, it may be earlier than that. An on bike lube will get me another 100 or so, then it has to come off for a full scrub. And if it is stretched/worn, then buy a new one. They really aren't that expensive mail order. The SRAM chains have a nice powerlink connector that makes for easy on/easy off.

nightc1

Deraileur adjustments are needed & you need to inspect the chain and gears for wear.

For top speed, as suggested, a new cassette could give you a little more top end.

I see no reason to get a new bike since you aren't properly servicing the one you have now. Any new bike is going to develop issues when neglected just like this bike has. The problem with the chain was a problem in setting up the bike to begin with. The dealer should have fixed this and you should have been a bit more forward in detailing the problem. It's probably just a few adjustments in a few min and it would be done.

I think it's time to visit the park tools website and learn as much as possible about bicycle maintenance. Spend some $$ on tools and take a chance and learn to adjust this stuff yourself... or go spend more $$$ and get someone to do it for you.

KevinSours

I've had more than one shop tell me that's just the way the bike is. How do I describe the problem is such a way that somebody is actually going to look at it? Its kind of hard to be forward when you don't have the facts at hand to argue with the experts.
Kevin

Raleighroader

I would stick with your OCR 3. It has the comfort of the road bike position, but you don't have a lot invested in it as it gets beaten up from your commutes. It has relatively robust wheels, which is good, too. More expensive bikes are lighter, but in a 7.5 mile ride, who cares? You may also have only an 8 or 9-speed power train, but again, for this purpose, who cares?

I used to do all of my commuting on a similar bike, a 1998 Raleigh 500 (seven-speed drive train.) Now in nice weather I commute on my carbon Trek 5000, but I still go back to the Raleigh in rougher conditions. I also have snap-on plastic fenders for the Raleigh that really help in the rain.

I have hit some doozy chuck holes on the Raleigh, but I have it equipped with heavy, 32 and 36-spoke front and rear wheels, so it can take a beating.

I don't know what to tell you about the chain slipping off in reverse, except to say to the bike shops that you don't see this happening to other bikes, and they should tell you specifically what it is about the design of your derailleurs that permits this to happen. If they can't, then they should fix the problem.

donnamb 

I'm going to let more knowledgable people speak to the derailleur maintenance issues, but it seems like a lot of the big guys around here like the steel frame Jamis road bikes. So, if you're really just looking for an excuse to get a new bike (nothing wrong with that ), perhaps consider checking out a Jamis dealer.

acroy

I'd buck the trend here and spring for a disc-brake-equipped cyclocross bike. Built to take more abuse, ability to run fatter tires (comfort & save your wheels) and brakes will ALWAYS work cheers!

CBBaron

Someone asked for recommendations for a commuter and no one recommended a Cross Check yet?
Excellent bike that is very durable and adaptable. The Cross Check Complete comes with sensible components but you may want to have the LBS swap the cranks for a triple to give you a wider gear range.

pieholden

I second the cyclocross motion for a new bike but have to suggest the Bianchi Volpe. I love my bike more and more each day I ride it. I pack my baby with panniers and she still handles well and corners like a dream. She come stock with a triple but I have yet to use the smallest ring. I swapped out the stock tires for Specialized 28's with the flak jacket protection.

KevinSours

Okay, sounds like my best bet is going to be to refurbish the bike I have.
I was glancing over a bike catalog I got in my junk mail and it looks like there is a pretty wide range of prices for cassettes (and other components). Is brand likely to matter for the type of riding I'm doing? Anybody I should really avoid?
Kevin

Industrial

Stick with an 8-speed cassette since your shifters and rear derailleur is designed for 8-speeds I think. I don't think brand matters as long as it's a standard road 8-speed cassette. I have no idea what 2200 series shimano components can handle. 11-27 if I had to guess.