Winter Tire Change
#27
ride for a change
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 2,221
Likes: 2
From: Minneapolis, MN
Bikes: Surly Cross-check & Moonlander, Pivot Mach 429, Ted Wojcik Sof-Trac, Ridley Orion. Santa Cruz Stigmata
Dry pavement: slicks are best.
Wet pavement: still slicks
Ice on pavement: studs
Snow on pavement: knobbies = studs (since most studded tires = knobbies)
Snow on ice on pavement: studs.
Me? Winter = studs, but 90% of the time I don't need them. The problem, is that the other 10% is not predictable.
Wet pavement: still slicks
Ice on pavement: studs
Snow on pavement: knobbies = studs (since most studded tires = knobbies)
Snow on ice on pavement: studs.
Me? Winter = studs, but 90% of the time I don't need them. The problem, is that the other 10% is not predictable.
Me? - 2 sets of wheels, one with studs. one with slicks. But with that I need to be pretty obsessive about knowing the route conditions from day to day and really staying on top of weather. Being caught out in the slicks when I need the studs is the worst and I have only myself to blame.
#28
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 183
Likes: 0
From: Shaker Heights, Ohio
Bikes: Azor Mechanic Series 108
This is a great thread.
How long does it take to swap out tires (studded for regular tires and vice versa)? (Miraculously, I have yet to change a flat on this current ride).
How about on wheel sets that have internal hubs, roller brakes and non-quick release bolts?
That's why I asked about the 80/20% balance between icy and dry days.
What about tire chains? With those, I hear all you need to do is deflate the tire, strap on the chains and pump back up...
How long does it take to swap out tires (studded for regular tires and vice versa)? (Miraculously, I have yet to change a flat on this current ride).
How about on wheel sets that have internal hubs, roller brakes and non-quick release bolts?
That's why I asked about the 80/20% balance between icy and dry days.
What about tire chains? With those, I hear all you need to do is deflate the tire, strap on the chains and pump back up...
#29
not to worry, I'll be buying my LRT1 in 2 weeks.Even after shipping (really get you there) and duties (thanks Nashbar for putting the before sale price on the customs documentation) they still cost me less than anything I could find in a store here.
Full report coming in January
#30
Pedaling Backwards
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 400
Likes: 0
From: Mid-Michigan
Bikes: '04 Cannondale F300, '92 Park Pre Rigid MTB
I rode on Nashbar studded tires most of last winter and they worked out very well. Some drag (obviously), but I don't think I lost any studs that I could see.
#31
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 467
Likes: 0
Dry pavement: slicks are best.
Wet pavement: still slicks
Ice on pavement: studs
Snow on pavement: knobbies = studs (since most studded tires = knobbies)
Snow on ice on pavement: studs.
Me? Winter = studs, but 90% of the time I don't need them. The problem, is that the other 10% is not predictable.
Wet pavement: still slicks
Ice on pavement: studs
Snow on pavement: knobbies = studs (since most studded tires = knobbies)
Snow on ice on pavement: studs.
Me? Winter = studs, but 90% of the time I don't need them. The problem, is that the other 10% is not predictable.
Muddy pavement/road: treaded tyres or knobs (NOT slicks)
#32
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 563
Likes: 0
From: nw ohio
Bikes: 08 Novara Safari; 06 Schwinn Super Sport DBX
#33
I rode on the studs one winter (only put on maybe 300 miles) and none studs came off. I bought my tires gently used--they guy I bought them from said they might have 2000 miles on them, but it doesn't look like it.
I think these will last a long time.
I just want to add that it's a lot of fun riding through fresh snow with studs. I love it.
I think these will last a long time.
I just want to add that it's a lot of fun riding through fresh snow with studs. I love it.





