(reviewing again... hmm, just making sure...)

By golly, you've got one bike!

;)

I commute 5.5 miles each day on an 80s Univega that I converted to a singlespeed. it has riser bars and a rack with a trunk bag in back, and a basket in front. most days I just use the basket to carry stuff. I gotta change the gearing, though, it's killing me.

I ride a Giant TCR C2, use a CamelBak (sans bladder) to carry stuff back and forth to work, and my commute is nearly 28 miles per day.

commuting on road bikes
 

I commute 3-4 days/week on my road bikes. Generally I ride a steel lugged De Bernardi that I've set up for commuting with a Carradice Barley seatbag and rack, with several blinkie lights and a headlight. The seatbag is large enough to carry several articles of clothing as well as cell phone, lunch, eyeglasses and other gear. Occasionally I ride one of my Merckx road bikes when I feel like going faster. The main problem with the Merckxi is limited space in their seatbags, so I just ride them when I don't have to bring any extra clothes or lunch.

The roads are in good shape on my commute route, so I have no problem commuting on tires ranging from 700x23 to 25, but my main commuter has Panaracer 28s -- mainly for flat resistance. I try not to ride in the rain, so fenders aren't an issue -- and my experience is they really don't make much difference when it's really raining out anyway.

If I was looking for a new commuter bike, however, I would probably buy a frame like a Soma Smoothie or Salsa Casseroll that has eyelets for racks and fenders.

I commute in the summer on my full CF specialized tarmac expert. I commuted for a year and a half on my touring bike (beefy road bike) with skinny tires.
Heck, my next commuter is looking like a SS or FG road bike.
If I go with a geared bike it will be something like a SOMA smoothie or smoothie ES.

Thanks for the fantastic replies. Ok, now the finer points: my budget is $600, I need to mount a rack and panniers without heel strike, I prefer touring bike comfort and gearing.

All the suggestions have been welcome. Any ideas in this area?

'07 Giant OCR3, I love it for commuting. I commute 20km (one way) over country roads so a road bike was really the only logical option. I have it outfitted with a rear rack and panniers. I don't like using a backpack for the sweat and it tends to obstruct my 'Take-A-Look' helmet mounted mirror. The geometry for the paniers was alittle tight and it took some positioning/jury rigging to allow my heels to clear the paniers. The OCR3 comes with the dual brake handles so you can brake from the drops or flats which is a nice feature for commuting.

Perhaps so. Generally I'm the exception that proves the rule, and I am here too.

I'm completely car-free, have been since 1999. Any bike that doesn't have a rack, can't earn its keep with me.

I ride a '00 Trek 1000 fitted with a rack, and an '06 Trek Portland with a rack and full fenders. I bought the Portland so I don't have to switch to a hybrid or MTB for the winter. It has disc brakes and room in the frame and fork for my studded snow tires.

I can't see riding any but a road bike. They suit my style of riding. They're fast, responsive and agile in traffic. They're lighter than all but the most expensive MTBs, which is important to me because I live on the second floor. Every trip begins and ends with carrying the bike down or up my fire escape.

And they have plenty o' gears which help my aging knees deal with grades and headwinds. Did I mention the drop bars get me down out of the wind? This is especially nice in winter gales--the kind where they warn minivan drivers to stay off the expressways. Of course, that doesn't help much if the grocery panniers are fully loaded...

Attached: Pic of both bikes, pic of Portland with Tailrider trunk bag used for commuting, and grocery panniers, open.

Strengthen your core muscles and/or raise your handlebars some. If something hurts, then your bike isn't properly fitted.

I commute 30 miles RT every single day on a Cannondale 3.0 from '91. I love it. I use a backpacker....no problems

Everyone is going to have a different idea of what makes a great commuter rig. Here's my story. My commute is around 10 miles round trip, mostly on heavily traveled, urban streets. The ride is often extended by 50-75% on nice days and for lunch excursions.

Started on a converted mountain bike rig, a nice old Trek 950. The front shock sucked energy that would have been better utilized in moving the bike forward. As an engineer, I should have had the forethought to see that one coming. Rolling resistance on the Continental "Traffic" tires was too high. Again, not real surprising considering the were 2.1" wide, knobbies. The original flat bar was too low, and the stem was too long. Bought a riser bar and shorter stem, which helped, but quickly found a typical mountain bike bar just doesn't allow for enough hand positions for me. I have some lingering carpal tunnel issues, and need to move my hands around for comfort.

The 950 was still a useful experience, as I learned loads about fit, and what works for me. That bike was also "bombproof" and could pretty much roll over anything in its path; poorly set manhole covers, potholes, curbs, whatever. Handling was also quick, but not twitchy. A later ride was lazy and sluggish, which isn't much fun in heavy traffic.

I have now moved on to a road bike, sort of. The frame is an early 90's, lugged steel, Specialized Allez Comp. I'm running a pair of 36 hole, Mavic Open Sport rims hand laced to retro, Campy, freewheel type hubs. The hubs were inexpensive, really well built and oh so smooth. Thirty six spokes just 'cause I want them to last on rough urban streets. A 7-speed, IRD freewheel (13-28) out back couples to a 50/34 compact crank up front. Tires are Panaracer, T-Serv, 28x700c, which measures closer to a 25. That is about the biggest tire that will fit in my current frame, and is a good compromise between speed and comfort, for both the streets I ride, and my 200lb weight. The T-Serv also has a kevlar belt, which helps, but was unable to stop a roofing nail two weeks back. I can't honestly blame the tire for that one.

The 10, or so, usable gears are plenty for commuting, and I have really come to like the range and spacing of my current setup for hilly riding. If I had to change one thing, it would be trading the 34, up front, for a 36, or maybe a 38. There is just too much of a difference between the rings. I've tried clipless, but currently using retro toe-clips and straps. Makes it easy to jump on for a midday lunch or parts run without changing gear.

I've been running moustache bars, with bar-end shifters, and love the combination. When I first got the bars, I didn't have the bar-ends, and ran downtube shifters, which was almost as good. The mousache bars give me multiple, comfortable hand positions, have a little drop, are more aero than you might imagine, and look pretty cool too. The vertical drop from the seat to the brake hoods is about halfway between the tops and drops of a standard road bar. I think they make for a great commuter bar, although, if you are addicted to brake/shifter type controls, it isn't going to work.

I don't really need to carry much more than a change of clothes and lunch, so I just have a seatpost mounted rack with a Hopeless Depot (Workforce Brand), zippered, clamshell-type, nylon tool bag screwed to its top surface. Looks a little utilitarian, but functions perfectly. At $7, the price was right too.

Finally, I run a Planet Bike Superblinkie out back, and Cygolite, dual-cross 300 up front. The latter was just picked up from a fellow forum member.

Maybe that will give you some ideas. It doesn't have to be uber expensive, and realize once you get into the game, your ideas of what works for you will change, and may not resemble what the sales person said.

I bought a 2007 Trek 1500 this September to supplant my 2006 Schwinn Fastback 27 as my main ride for the 2007 Sea Gull Century. Now that the century's over, I've been using my Trek to commute twice a week (20 miles each way in the Northern Virginia/Metro D.C. area cold), and I drive my Schwinn to and from the office (in my car) on Mondays and Fridays to ride around town for lunch/errands/etc. (since it has block pedals and my Trek has clipless pedals).

Neither bike has racks/fenders, but I'm thinking hard about adding them since it was rainy last week (and because my Trek actually has mount-points for a tail-rack on the seat-stays), and carrying stuff in my messenger bag is a drag after about 10 miles...

I commute year round weather permitting (ie no snow temps>single digits) on 4 different older road bikes:

90' Raleigh Technium-Pro, with fenders and a rack,
87' Panasonic DX-4000 with fenders,
86' Vitus 979 no fenders,
and 94' RacingBik (aka Aegis) Carbon Fiber no fenders.

Normal route is 28 miles round trip and hilly longer route is 38 round trip. I usually have a backpack to carry the necessities.

Agreed. I don't put much if any pressure on my hands when I ride on the hoods or in the drops. I usually ride on the hoods though. The riding position can take a little time to get used to but I prefer it and it is quite comfortable for me for distances under 50 miles.

Yes.

Late '80s Centurion LeMans.

I carry clothing, lock, standard tools and everything else incidental for that day (lunches, free promo junk, battery chargers, shoes, another road bike).

I use a combination of things. I have a "Gregory" messenger bag I've been using recently, which is waterproof - that houses everything I need on a normal day. I also have a QR seatpost rack that I use one pannier on and/or a rack trunk bag (I used this rack to tow the other bike with, too). I also have a backpack which I can use as well as the rack, recently I've been favouring the weight/bags on me again rather than have it all on the bike but it's nice to have the option. The QR rack means I can also quickly/easily transfer this onto my MTB in moments of need, or just take it off for a quick/light evening ride.

My commute is only 7mi. RT, but I routinely ride to visit my daughter after work, so my daily tally is more like 20 miles and apart from extreme cases (ie, the extra bike) - I carry my load up there and back down to my house in the evening to spend more time with her.

I love riding this bike, it's addictive to ride and very enjoyable. I ride it mostly for transportation/commuting, but also have done day/weekend tours on it out to Niagara Falls and such.

If you have the time, patience, and mechanical inclination, I think you could put together a really great commuter from a classic steel touring frame.

Personally, I love that Gazelle CX. I have a Champion Mondial road bike that I am slowly accumulating the components for. In the meantime, I've set it up as an FG and just happened to ride it to work today.

For many years my main commuting bike was an American Eagle/Nishiki 10 speed. I've used it in commutes of up to 10 miles .

http://www.pointhappy.com/gcf/AmEagleNishikism.jpg

At one point my commute was 17 miles each way so I upgraded to a Bianchi Eros. That was a nice bike but soon got stolen from out of a locked garage. Sigh. I also had a Centurion Pro Tour that got stolen out from under me and a dutch Pegasus 10 speed that disappeared during the last L.A. Street Scene.

Since moving to Little Rock, my commute is only 3 miles and I've had to adapt to hilly narrow potholed streets so I have adopted a streetified Specialized Hard Rock, that does wonderfully.

http://www.pointhappy.com/gcf/BikeInNewOffice.jpg

I carry most of my stuff in my backpack, a Jansport TDN7, http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.c..._1974_91782182

but you'll notice that my bikes have Pletcher-style racks. On a usual day it may be a change of clothes and a tire repair kit. Going back home I often add my groceries. But I may also have spare clothes for rain or even a laptop in the backpack.

Trek Portland, rack, panniers, 7.5 miles one way. I carry clothes, repair stuff, a few papers, lunch (I like the 2008 color scheme). A less expensive similar bike is the Schwinn DBX.

Look at cross bikes too. I am a big fan of the Bianchi Volpe.

Since we're sharing photos, here's my Trek 660 from last spring. It's stripped down right now, getting ready for a trip to the powdercoater.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y18...erfixie002.jpg

I have 2 bikes and I commute on both. One is a road bike with no braze-ons for racks or fenders. With that bike I wear a backpack and carry a change of clothes and my lunch.

My other bike is an old (1984) Trek 720 tour bike. It has a rear rack and right now has folding grocery baskets on it. This bike is about to go through some major changes and likely will become my primary commuter one it is done.

Condor Italia with 105 groupset and Continental Ultra Gatorskin tyres to keep (most of) the glass out.

Last year I commuted a 15 mile round trip and put in 3000 miles in the year, since then I've moved house and commute a 10 mile round trip (which isn't far enough!) and with other riding as well I'm set for about 2500 miles. I'm very comfortable on my roady and carry everything including the groceries on it in my Crumpler (Donny Frank).

My bike last year was a Marin flat bar hybrid and since I got on the Condor I haven't been able to get back on it, even at 30 MPH it feels slow and boring by comparison.

I commute on four road bikes:
2004 Fuji world [built 9 speed double] with aerobars, panniers, rear fender & DIY halogen lighting
1986 Schwinn Paramount with track clip pedals/straps & backpack
1970's Raleigh Gran Sport single-speed conversion with full fenders and panniers
1990 frame Miyata (CF covered aluminum lugged, built 9 speed double] with TT bars & backpack

I have a 1996 Giant Yukon MTB that I"ve bought Nokian studded snow tires for the week or two we have snow/ice

My ride is 18 miles RT half paved MUP, half road

How far and what sort of terrain and traffic?

I rode my buddies drop (older Cannondale of some sort) bar bike for a week and just couldn't get used to it. It was fine and sometimes better on more open roads but I didn't like it in town mixed with traffic (just my experience). For traffic, I really like my flat bar best because of brake and shifter locations. I would recommend some bar ends should you go this route, extra hand positions are good and I have to agree that a straight flat bar is not the most natural position for longer rides. I tried a few sets of bar ends before deciding on these for mine

http://ritcheylogic.com/web/Ritchey%...7927&live=true

The bend and angle inward really seems to fit my natural hand/arm positions and end up giving me another position choice (half bar end/half flat bar). Didn't like the straight bar ends nearly as much. Stick your arms out at a 45 deg. angle and you may see your hands naturally going to a near 45 deg too (if that makes sense). Other people and bike/handlebar set-ups may be different.

2 bikes:

A) road bike for nice days and days where I'm not carrying cargo. No rack, no panniers, no fenders. I do that up to 4 days a week.

B) 15 year old hybrid bike I call 'Sherpa'. Steel frame, probably 30 pounds or more. Rack, fenders, 700Cx37mm tires. Once a week, I haul all the crap I'm going to need all week (clean clothes, lunches, snacks). Also use it for bad weather conditions which will probably include most of the winter.

I heartily recommend the 2-bike setup because trying to get the 'all-in-one' bike results in too many compromises in my opinion. And the cargo hauler doesn't need to be expensive - no point getting all weight weenie with a bike that you're about to lash 20 pounds of cargo to. $100 or less for an old bike plus about the same in Nashbar upgrades and you have a very serviceable sherpa.

I don't commute on a road bike but I could. I commute 5day/wk all year round (120F thru 25F) with rare rain but sometimes very heavy. 8.5mi each way.

I as have a shower/locker I only need to carry laptop and change of clothes to work, so I carry everything on my back.

The bikes I use are a Jamis Sputnik FG or a Lemond Poprad with nothing attached I wouldn't have on a road ride. Lock up has security cam on work campus and is better than being on the street, however there have been waves of bikes stolen, mainly those which were poorly locked.

25c tires, relatively good roads.

Al

Oh yeah, I run a Conti Ultra Sport (no kevlar, just the regular) 700x28 on the back and an unknown 25 on the front (will replace it with the same 28 on the back when I need to).

I did a few upgrades to my Centurion, including a Brooks B-17 (had a black, now breaking in a copper/British racing green one), now running eggbeaters (will be moved to my fixie once built) and a new back wheelbuild (Mavic Open Sport rim laced onto the same hub/cassette as original).

I have DT shifters, which I don't intend to change but put in some Tektro cross levers so I can comfortably ride the tops/corners in traffic (and they work very well).

My frame is actually damaged (it was a free bike anyway) so I don't like to put much money into it directly, the wheel was the big deal - everything else I can move away - but I love the bike nonetheless, it's probably one of the best, if not the best bike I've ever owned to date.

I have a 28 mile RT commute that I do year round. I really only ride my road bikes for the commute (unless I am meeting a group to go mountain biking before or after work).
The bike that gets the most use is a 1982 Peugeot converted to a single speed. I LOVE this bike. At the thrift store, I initially balked at its $40 price tag but this thing has been worth 10 times that much to me over the last 2 years. It has clearance for 35s but I need to find something else for the fenders. It is comfortable and suprisingly fast (it can hang with my buddies on their fast bikes). It is so versatile, I can mount knobbies, slicks, studded tires. I can gear it or not in a heartbeat, depending on my mood, by simply adding a rear der. and a bolt on pair of downtube friction shifters.

My "nice" bike is a giant TCR 0 that is used about 70% of the time in the summer but never in the winter. It is very fast, to say the least.

I also recently bougth a cyclocross bike but have yet to figure out how to incorporate it into my commute as I really prefer to commute single speed but want to keep this geared up for off road riding. It has recently seen use on days when I ride off road at lunch.

All three have drop bars and I would not have it any other way. 14 miles is too far to ride sitting upright.

I've owned bikes for, I don't know, maybe 30 years by now, and have only owned a bike with drop bars for a couple months.

I'm finding it really difficult to want to get back on a flat-bar bike. I'm totally surprised.