DataJunkie

Y'all are missing the point. What is easiest to track stand on trumps everything.

JoeyBike

Nice route. 40 miles is a hump. I know....my 18 month post-Katrina commute was 36 miles round trip at the shortest. Are you riding that route five days a week, or just when you can?

The LHT is an awesome bike! If I could only own one bike, that would be it. Sweet. I built a LHT "prototype" years before Surly came out with their entry. I converted a 1989 Marin Pine Mountain ATB with no suspension. Recently I changed out the fork to a LHT fork and a King threadless headset. It is still going strong. Check it out on the Lewis and Clark trail in Iowa 1n 1995:

My LHT prototype 1989 Marin Pine Mountain conversion

JoeyBike

I use Stans in my Pugsley tires and it works awesome! Stans works best on low pressure tires, never thought of trying it on road tires. (Pugs can run 5 - 30 psi) And the presta valve is a real bugger to use with Stans. On my Pugs, I just poke a hole in each tube, squirt in four ounces of Stans, then patch the hole. Pain in the arse. BUT....once I rolled over a whole mess of construction staples and put ten or so holes in my Pugs rear tire. Upon hearing the ticking I stopped, yanked out half a dozen staples, spun the tire, and continued home ten more miles. Never went flat, and still is not flat six months later! Stans rocks in low pressure tires, but causes an ever growing lump of sealant - looks like a piece of cauliflower - in the tube after time. No prob if you are going tubeless, but rattles around inside a tube. Pugs tubes cost up to $20US, so you just can't toss them and feel good about it.

matthew_deaner

I was doing this route 5-days a week over the summer, but have scaled down to 4-days a week since about early October. Every Wednesday, I arrange overnight babysitting and work late at my job, and spend the night at my girlfriend's house in Bloomington. I get some extra work done this way, and this effectively cuts one commuting day out per week, which I need now that the weather is colder. It seems like I don't recover as fast in cold weather. And if you check the vertical profile on that route, you'll see that it's quite demanding. 1,150 feet climbed in 20.5 miles, if I remember correctly. Two hills with 20% grades.

Your LHT "prototype" really does look like a LHT! That's quite a load you have on there.

If you ever get a chance to get a LHT, don't hesitate. It's a fantastic bike. One of the few bicycle-related purchases that I don't have some regrets or second thoughts about. It has been reliable and low maintenance, rides like a dream, carries incredible weight without a problem... I couldn't be happier.

JoeyBike

Tell me! Two co-workers and one other friend all bought Truckers on my recommendation because they admired my bike. I may just get a LHT frame 'cause I already have the fork and all of my components should swap over no prob. I just hate to retire an old friend that is still working just fine. I do some bike tours with my buds and switch bikes (the two coworkers ride my size) now and then. The geometry of the LHT is a little less harsh than my old MTB. Maybe next year's new color will push me over the edge!

As for your commute, smart move cutting down to 4 days and getting that extra rest day. When I was stuck with the 18 miles each way I tried every trick in the book including switching to 4 days @ 10 hours a day working instead of 5 days @ 8 hours. That third rest day is key when you can get it.

Keep on Truckin' !

acroy

well here's the trick: using a set of wire cutters, lop off the very end of the Presta stem so you can unscrew the cap all the way off. now the stem is free to fall into the tube, so hold onto the tube with a couple fingers, you can feel it in there, don't let it fall all the way in. Now squirt the Stan's in, still keeping the stem from falling all the way in...

now push the stem back into place, you might have to finagle it some. air it up a bit, then take the pump off the tube, let the air pressure help push the stem back into place.

put the cap back on. ta-da! the cap will come all the way off again if you let it. hopefully you won't have to mess with that tube for a LONG time. the stan's will seal small holes (like thorns & glass) even at hi pressures.

sounds worse than it is - first time i did it took about 10 min on one tube, now 2-3 min per tube. Time i'd much rather spend in the garage with my bike than on the road with a patch kit

i've been running this for the last year in all my tubed tires. road bike (100+psi) & wife's cruiser 60psi. had no ride-stopping flats!

JoeyBike

Ahhhh-Haaa!!! I did not know the wire cutter trick! I'll give that a shot.

Alright then.

Double AMEN to that. Road bike after dark in the rain is bad enuf, but you NEVER want to remove Pugsley tires anywhere but home or the bike shop. Pain in the arse in several ways. Can be done. But you will be pumping half an hour with a hand pump or carrying five air canisters all the time. And a spare tube is the size of a large motorcycle tube!

Yes...Stans rocks!

TRaffic Jammer

Word, Black is the fastest colour.
Just say no the quantification of speed via mathematics.

No matter what I wear, no matter what I ride, be it a 10,000$ BMC, or a 600$ used MTB, somewhere out there is a guy in jeans work boots and a leather jacket who can crank (with his heels seemingly) his 150$ wallymart bike, while smoking and carry a 12 of beer such that I have to work to catch him on my ride home at night. I think most of you know this guy, or his cousin.

DogBoy

I've used a HRM and monitor my effort (or at least used to). With my summer mtn bike set-up, I typically cruise at around 14-15 mph on the road bike at a given level of effort. That same level of effort on my road-setup cyclocross bike is about 16-17 mph. Increases in effort are more evident on the cyclocross bike also. If I increase my effort by 10% (meaning up the Heartrate by 15 beats), I can get 18-19 mph out of the cross bike, but only improve to 15-16 on the mtn bike.

With a winter setup, the same level of effort nets me about 9-11 mph.

So, if efficiency (speed per unit of power) was my primary concern, I'd always use the road bike setup. But its not. I like to cruise to work in my upright position on my cushy tires. I like to be more upright to see traffic, and with all the lights and batteries and such on my helmet, the more upright position eases strain on my neck. But, I only have a 5 mile commute. If I had a 10+ mile commute, I'd switch.

tjspiel

Ok, here's the numbers I get with stock bikes:

Entry level Specialized Allez (2005)
Rim: Alex DA-16 @ 540 g
Tire: Conti Super Sport 25c @ 300g (actual tire is a Mondo 23c but few commute on 23c)
Tube: 122 g
Wheel Diameter: 27 inches (includes tire)

Older Specialized Rockhopper
Rim: Araya GP-710 @ 520 g
Tire: Specialized Hardrock'r 1.95 @ 600g
Tube: 192 g
Wheel Diameter: 26.5 inches (include tire)

The wheel inertia for the Allez is 17.53 and for the Rockhopper is 23.03 I used these bikes because they're what I have and have commuted on. I realize that with either bike you can do a lot better but I'm more interested in what's typical than what's possible. Putting really skinny tires and ultra-light rims on an MTB is messing with one of the identifying characteristics of that type of bike

The main differences from your calculations is that I used a more typical MTB tire and used the diameter of the entire wheel including the tire instead of just the diameter of the rim.

Any advantages with respect to interia the smaller MTB wheel rim gives is more than nullified by the larger tire.

I'd also contend that you'll find lighter wheels on the road bikes of people who really care about such things than you will on MTBs. I don't think you'll see many sub 300g tubular rims on an MTB.

JoeyBike

I did it!

Used a 1" belt sander at work instead of wire cutters. Worked great.

Applied the Stans with the special Stans syringe that screws onto PV and measures the volume of fluid. (I work at a bike shop....we have it all!)

I filled two tubes in no time and will install them tomorrow.

BTW... I asked around and some of the guys at the shop knew the "wire-cutter" trick too. Were they sadistic watching me poke holes in my Pugsley tubes for the past year to install the Stans? Ever want to strangle a co-worker?

Thanks again! If it prevents just one roadside flat fix out of three I will be happy.

-Joey

thirdin77

I ride a road bike too and have been surprised at the abuse it takes. I too have ridden over railroad tracks paralleled by broken pavement as well as other pavement overlaps and defects that feel like they mercilessly pound the bike. I do get out of the saddle and bunny hop/rear wheel hop whatever I can, but the bike still takes a beating. Despite this, it just keeps on rollin and I get to work just fine .

acroy

sure thing - hope it works out well. I bet the co-workers were snickering the whole time....
cheers

JoeyBike

Me three!

Same as you said. Only time I grab the ATB is when torrential rains are forecast that might fill up the streets with water. Can't see potholes, trolly tracks, etc through even an inch of water during dark commute homeward, or even if the holes are just holding water level with the street. Normal rain - no prob with the road bike and decent tires. (Vredestein Fortezza Tri-Comp).

Our streets in New Orleans are mostly horrible. I don't baby the bike by going slow, but I do baby it with some technique that racers use on cobbles.

My current road bike is from the late 80s. It does not seem to care how or where I ride it.

uke

I can get this. I have a flat bar road bike, but have often considered an MTB with suspension for the winter, or for getting around bumpy roads.

ATAC49er

FWIW, for me personally, I have too many other obligations to spend on multiple bikes; hence, the one I can afford has to fulfill a variety of roles. The MTB does that. My riding style is best described as "guerilla", as I will take a sidewalk/MUP/side street in a second if it benefits me. That, and my creaky skeleton won't take a rigid frame under any circumstances.

Besides, I just like the MTB....

Industrial

That's all you have to say to resurrect an 8 month old thread?

Zero_Enigma

To the OP,

I'm a MTB rider as well but on my lighter MTB I swapped out my 26 x 2.1" for 26 x 1.75" semi-slicks which have a higher PSI (80 vs 65) that allows me to ride faster. Also I have side hand grips which I normally grip on to while riding in a semi-aero position which I find more comfortable when the winds are high or for longer riding times. Tho most MTB bikes I see around on the streets here are just the handlebar with no side hand grips and most are using 26 x 2.1 tires which I can easily fly by those guys as they by the looks of them riding the bike have the PSI somewhere around 55-60psi.

lil brown bat

Eight month old thread, awesome.

RogerB

I've used either a road bike or a fully rigid MTB. In the past, I used a road bike even on a partially-unpaved route because the distance was something like 12 miles each way and the road bike was just faster and more efficient. It was a revelation the day I realized that the bike wouldn't fall over or disintegrate the moment it touched gravel. However, on that job I was able to park the bike inside in a fairly secure area.

Now, I use the MTB primarily because it is less dear to me, and I don't mind (as much) having it locked to an outdoor bike rack all day. It is also a little easier to commute with because it has platform pedals, vs the clipless on my roadie. My tires aren't bad, but I plan to add a better rear rack, fenders, and slick tires to it as money allows.

Now that I've moved the "commuter gear" from my road bike to the MTB, I'm much happier with the "sport bike" remaining true to its intent. I still would like to find a used beater roadie to replace the MTB as "the daily." Meanwhile, much cheaper to keep running the MTB because that's what I have.

gronk40

It is what I have. I was given an old bike from a roomate was moving out and I used it to save my other bike (a full suspension mountain bike) for backcountry trips.

I also get snow/ice six months of the year and can go off road on the commute (when I go the long way) another 4 months of the year.

gronk40

Better than starting a new thread ...

We could use some more thread consolidation around here ... I wonder if the people who start "What bike should I buy for commuting" threads actually read any of the solid advice in threads gone by.

knobster

I bought an old Bianchi Grizzly to convert to a commuter. I changed the straight bars for drops and updated everything. It's heavy, but I don't worry about hurting it and it's always reliable. It's damn near as fast as my road bikes. Unless I have to climb.

Indie

While my folder is out for repairs, I'm riding a junker MTB/hybrid -- it's basically a cheap hardtail frame with slick tires and commuter accessories (fenders, rear rack, etc.). 21 speeds mean I can get up all the hills, and the tough frame and fat tires mean I don't have to swerve around manhole covers and storm drains. My commute has a lot of potholes and unpaved MUPs, so I appreciate having a bike that can get over some obstacles.

kbblodorn

I'm putting drop bars on my old Specialized Rockhopper this week, after riding it all summer. The roads here suck and I don't want to subject my road bike to the daily beatings on my 38 mile RT commute, so I put "comfort" tires (1.65") on the Rockhopper. It's a rigid steel frame bike and does great over all the frost heaves and potholes. With the drop bars on it, it'll be pretty close to a full blown touring bike (without 700c rims). Good wheelbase, so I don't kick the panniers; it'll also get full fenders this week. The drop bars will give me more comfortable (for me) hand positions, as I prefer riding on the hoods or in the drops versus the palms down, wrists cocked flat bar position. I'm really looking forward to riding it with the new bars!

As for the weight, there's no doubt it weighs a ton. But, I have occassionally taken my carbon fiber road bike to work, and at best I save ten minutes over my usual 1:15 ride time. Stop lights, traffic, etc. have a much bigger impact than bike speed.