Schwinn World DBX
 

http://www.schwinnbike.com/products/...ail.php?id=748

I found one, *not at an LBS*, a new one in my "size", for what I think is a decent price. I'm not planning on commuting on it--if I were, I'd just buy it, as it looks 'bout ideal for what I'd think a commuter would be for *me*--but am planning on taking routine 25-50 mile rides. Perhaps further. I read decent things about it, but I'm a bit concerned: it's not for sale at an LBS, so anything wrong with it I'd have to swap out. [I'm assuming I can fix most of the things as I do have some mechanical abilities.] And it has 175mm cranks; at 5'7", I believe 170's would be better. And saddle (if it was "wrong"), and anything else.

One big concern is weight. While this has plenty of gearing with the triple, being more of a sunny day rider, would I be better off waiting for a bike that weights 5lb less? I like the fenders and disc brakes, as I'd like to have a bike that I can ride in the rain (or after it rains) without getting doused or placing undue wear on the drivetrain.

Thoughts? This would be also a "first" road bike experience, as my current road bike was bought last summer for $5, and is 22 years old. My goal is 2,000 miles this summer, and I will be doing a fair amount at night-time, perhaps after it rains.

The DBX was on my short list for a commuter for a while. Love the Avid BB7 brakes grew to dislike the frame. Personal preference. The price kept me a bay more than anything. Largest frame is too small for me too.

I'm not crazy about the small/medium/large, and the frame didn't impress me. But I'm not riding it for looks. :) It's also on sale as a year old model, so it's not 1k, which puts it into the much more affordable relm. And it is the size that fits me.

What was it about the frame you didn't like? Geometry? Or poor welds?

I wouldn't worry about the bike not being for sale at any LBS. It's pretty common to have to order a bike. Also, most if not all the parts on this bike are common parts and can be easily maintained/replaced by any LBS worth it's salt.
As far as the weight goes. I commute 20 mile RT daily on my 33 pound bike, and I don't see it as a problem. Are you skinny? If not, losing 5 lb of body weight might be easier and cheaper than gettting a similar equipped bike for 5 lb lighter.

Duppie

I test rode a DBX and liked it a lot. I was ready to buy it when the Trek dealer made me a super deal on my Portland.

Its weight is about right for its price range, if you factor in that the disk brakes add about 3 pounds and require heavier hubs. Factor in the triple, add in the fenders, and bingo! There's your five pounds.

The DBX is a "relaxed" frame geometry. It's not an aggressive position, even in the drops. If that's what you're looking for, it's a nice bike. As I say, I liked it a lot.

If you're want to be low, stretched-out and aggressive, or the extra weight of the disk brakes bothers you, look for something else, without fenders, disk brakes or a triple.

Edit: Oh, and the reason it's not available at an LBS is that it's a discontinued 2007 model. They CAN'T order it. I forget what the replacement 2008 model is, but I remember I didn't like it as well.

I test rode the DBX, too. It was nice. Carbon fork. Plenty of eyelets. Had the extra brake levers at the top (sissy brakes?). Custom fitted fenders. Nice red color. I couldn't afford spending the $$ at the time, though. :(

How much are you paying for it, if you don't mind me asking? I think I saw one at Performace for $899 or so about 2 months ago. This was a good deal since I think the MSRP is/was around $1200. Also, their price was before any performance points and such.

Tag is $830, hence the dilema. :) I've been looking at the $500 Bikesdirect Motobecane Fantom CX, but I'd still have to get pedals, fenders, and there's a decent chance of needing a stem change and possibly handlebars (I emailed, and the size I'd want has 40cm bars, and I'm pretty sure I want wider--it's about 44cm across my 'pits). Plus, this is 105/triple vs Sora/compact double.

I'm sure it'd make a great bike, once I got it initially dialed in. I'm perhaps just a bit worried about the inevitable second thoughts: what if I got ___ instead? I haven't ridden much yet and so I don't know if the arguement about AL being more harsh than steel is real or imagined (to me at least); at this price level I wonder if I should up go hunt for a Surly. The Surly problem is seeing the bike before buying (BD MB being "ok" in this regard based solely on cost).

You will always have second thoughts. With all the choices out there, it's inevitable. At some point you have to say, "This is the best I can do right now under the present circumstances." Then make the purchase.

Bear in mind too, that the purpose of a first road bike it to teach you what you want and need in your second road bike. Every first bike will include these lessons at no extra charge.

As for 105 vs, Sora, I own both. In day-to-day riding, I can't tell the difference, except that I have two more cogs to play with on 105. At the rear, they both shift easily, smoothly and reliably. Honestly, I can't see what all the fuss is about. Where I can tell the difference is with the Sora triple. It lives up to its reputation of being finicky. But you're removing that from the equation with the compact double.

Your biggest problem seems to be that you can't test ride any of the bikes you've mentioned so far. I think it's crucial to understanding the similarities and differences between them, assessing the bikes' personalities and getting your fit right. Perhaps the best course of action is to stop looking online and start looking at an LBS. After your first or second bike, you'll know enough about bikes, your fit, your style and your preferences to be able to buy online without a lot of worry.

And I did notice you're in Central NH and understand your LBS choices may be limited. It may be worth an excursion to a larger market.

The Schwinn I can at least feel in person, at one local store (not a bike shop but an outlet that gets returns/old stock). Right now, we're getting sleet/freezing rain/something, which is taking out the snowbanks--while I'd ride in this slop, I know the store won't go for that. :)

Last time I was in an LBS, I sat on a new Trek Pilot 2.1. I don't dare go back. :D Thanks for the comments, I'll make up my mind eventually.

The only thing that I don't like about my DBX is it's a little too big for me(size XL,only reason I'm selling it). Unfortunately,two bike shops dumped a bunch of them on eBay for cheap last year and the going rates for them are low. I think this makes people think they're not great bikes,but they are. For the price I'd go for it(but immediately ditch the front reflector,it will foul your cross levers).

BTW,discs do not add 3lbs. I'm too lazy to dig up the debate thread from a few months back,but I actually weighed some bikes,and it wasn't that bad. Bad Boy Disc vs regular Bad Boy(not the Ultra) was like a pound. My Redline Conquest Disc(not marked,but about 56-58cm) with carbon fork,alloy frame,all 105 weighs 22lbs and change on my digital fish scale. My XL size DBS carbon/alloy,Tiagra/105 weighs like 24lbs and change. Unless you're talking the modo systems on tandems and downhill machines,disc's weight is negligible unless you're competing.

The question is really how frequently are you going to ride in the rain?

Discs + fenders are a good setup for rain riding. The DBX is not too heavy, based on a "Bicycling" review I have seen. But if you are not going to ride in the rain, don't get it.

Sounds like a good price.

We looked for that DBX and didn't find it...spouse ended up with the Trek Portland triple. That's some serious coin. The Gregg's dealer chinzed-out and wouldn't give any discounts not even on the track and other bling.

As for Sora vs 105. The Brifters worked great, the shifting was clunkier and always needed adjustments as in...every 200mi.

The weight is kinda bugging me. Discs are nice; and ability to take fenders is a must. I try to ride when I can, and don't like having to sit it out because the roads are wet. I think the wife and I will be heading out this weekend to hit a few shops, as she is shopping too, so I have plenty of time to keep thinking about it. In some ways, it might be nice to get this, and then get something faster--next year. Then I'll have the two bikes I want (fast rider and an everyday rider).

Because the hub is wider, you'll also need a wider rack...that's a tad bit heavier also. Most of use are not weight weenies around here...however, it;s a mystery how an 18lb bike can bloat out to 30lbs :eek:

Meh? 24lbs is not a heavy bike. And if you're looking at a size smaller than XL,it will be even lighter.

Ambiguous sizes. I opted for the Nashbar XCross frame XLG. There are detailed specs for the frame in all sizes. Never saw the DBX in person so, I can't comment on the quality of welds.

I rounded out my bike with the carbon disc compatible fork, Avid BB7 front brake SunRingle Highrider wheels and the cheapest drive train components available on the web.

It's been heavily loaded and ridden alot.

The DBX rear hub is spaced at 130mm see specifications
http://www.schwinnbike.com/products/...ail.php?id=607

This not a cyclocross bike. It's a roadbike with disc brakes.;)

I did some quick reading recently from a guy called "Annan" and his alleged problems with disc brakes. Is that still considered a problem? That is, the QR either loosening up or the front wheel popping out under heavy usage? I wouldn't be riding such a bike hard like an MTB would be getting; but it's unlikely that I'd be checking the QR on a daily basis either.

I don't know the rider or thread you're referring to, but it sounds like he needs to learn how to use QR wheels properly. A properly secured QR retains a wheel 100% of the time, no matter what kind of brakes (if any at all) are on it. It needs to be tight enough to leave a small indentation on you hand when you close it, but not so tight you need a pry bar to open it again. Same as on every other wheel or saddle QR.

Disc brakes *do* put more stress on hubs and spokes, which is why there are disk-specific hubs and they're always laced two or three-cross. The QR simply squeezes the dropout to the axle. There is no difference at all between QRs (or axles for that matter) for disk or rim brakes, because there doesn't need to be, since there's no rotation at that level.

One thing that can be more challenging, depending on your coordination, is lining up both the cassette and the rotor when changing the rear wheel. Once you figure out that if you line up the rotor, that the cassette is automatically aligned, the problem goes away.

Where I now have a problem is that since you don't need to fuss with the brakes to change wheels on a disc-brake bike, I now forget to open the calipers (and to close them again) when working on my rim brake bikes. Doh!

Only the hardiest ride their road bikes when the roads are wet. Are you really going to do that? Are you and your wife willing to take the inevitable spill on your bikes? You have to be careful not to make any sudden movements while riding and slow down to about 0 mph to take any turns.

I personally wouldn't buy a 25 lb road bike as my only road bike. It makes a great commuter, but a commuter is a different kind of bike and the DBX does fit the bill very well in that regard. But as a road bike for a person who cries on hills I think you should be looking for something in the 20 lb category. You will notice the difference 5 pounds makes. I encourage you to ride a 20 lb bike and then this one on a few different types of roads.

A lighter bike is more enjoyable all other things being equal (fit etc).

We did hit up a bike shop, and I sat on a Trek 1.2 and a Specialized Allez. Both felt good; I liked the Trek better for the fender clearance but found out afterwards that it comes with 2203 brifters, not Sora like I thought. I might have to try out the Pilot 1.2 instead.

I don't plan on riding in the driving rain; but I don't want to to say "can't ride now, it rained an hour ago and I don't want to get wet". In those murky dog days of summer the roads can stay wet in the evenings, and there are puddles to contend with. Sure, I could just harden up; I'll be sweating a lot anyhow; but I want fenders. Afterall, I can always remove if I want to--but it's hard to put them on in the first place if the bike won't take them. I've also given some consideration to a CX bike, but they often come with rather limited gearing for what I want (hill riding), and they're not stocked around here at the moment.

Wife has no intention of riding in weather that requires fenders, though. Just me. I commuted in college right through a Maine winter once, and while I wouldn't want to deal with ice on a road bike, I wouldn't mind doing it again. Maybe not at 10F though--that was too cold for me. The warmer days last month got into the 40's, and I loved hitting the road--I didn't care about dodging the slush, but the fenders went a ways towards comfort.

I'd love to get a lighter bike. I pedaled my 27lb bike last summer, though; I cried a bit, nearly threw up a time or two, but managed. During the night-time rides, though, I'd toss in a 7Ahr SLA to power the 20W headlight--I didn't bother weighing the bike! A typical 20mile ride has 750-1000' climbing, depending upon route (and if you trust Google maps or not).

The price you mentioned ($830) for the DBX is pretty good. That's better than Performance is offering. The DBX looks like a poor man's Trek Portland, except with better fenders. Looks like a winner. If it was steel I'd be on one.

Huh? Srsly? Been Armor-All'ing your tires or something? Freezing rain,yes,but normal rain is not a problem to ride in.

On the disc brakes: Annan seems to have a bent against disc brakes; I somehow stumbled upon him and brought it up here as I was wondering if it had been hashed out and figured out. Not trying to start a war, honestly--just wanted to know all the facts.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/James_Annan
http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/in...p/t-27580.html
His personal page:
http://www.ne.jp/asahi/julesandjames...quick_release/

That Annan guy is a wacko. I've had zero probs and every bike in my fleet has discs.

If this was actually an issue,you wouldn't see QR's on MTBs.