made the switch commuting on a fixed
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made the switch commuting on a fixed
I am so loving it..
I went from riding a trek 7.3 to a 84 Centurion superlemans conversion. and the new bike feels a whole lot faster.
I think its due to the fact that I customized the fit on my new fixed gear and it fits me better, and is lighter.
I never noticed how bad the heavy schawlbe marthon plus were slowing me down. I switched to gatorskins and so far no flats yet. I also switched from a rack and bag to a timbuk2 bag that holds double what my rack bag did and have no regrets.
Today I set a new personal record on my commute to work. I did my 12 mile ride in 45 minutes. I leave at 6am so theres very little traffic and probably only stopped once.
anyone know how to calculate my average speed? I suck at math and opted for a heartrate monitor watch instead of a speedometer for the new bike.
I went from riding a trek 7.3 to a 84 Centurion superlemans conversion. and the new bike feels a whole lot faster.
I think its due to the fact that I customized the fit on my new fixed gear and it fits me better, and is lighter.
I never noticed how bad the heavy schawlbe marthon plus were slowing me down. I switched to gatorskins and so far no flats yet. I also switched from a rack and bag to a timbuk2 bag that holds double what my rack bag did and have no regrets.
Today I set a new personal record on my commute to work. I did my 12 mile ride in 45 minutes. I leave at 6am so theres very little traffic and probably only stopped once.
anyone know how to calculate my average speed? I suck at math and opted for a heartrate monitor watch instead of a speedometer for the new bike.
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what's the gear size you are using and what do you normally spin at?
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Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
https://sanfrancisco.ibtimes.com/arti...ger-photos.htm
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so 12 miles/.75 hours. To get rid of the decimal multiply both sides by the same number, in this case that number is 4.
12 x 4 = 48
.75 x 4 = 3
48/3 = 16
Average speed 16 mph.
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45 mins is 3/4 an hour. 12/3 = 4 mi. every 15 mins. 4x4 =16 mph
Fixed is fun. Run a brake.
Fixed is fun. Run a brake.
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I just took my newly fixed PDG Series-5 for a couple laps around the parking lot last night, and I've got to say that it's going to be a rough learning curve for me. I've been riding gears for so long that my muscle memory for getting on/off the bike, and my desire to coast through downhill turns, are going to be difficult to re-learn.
I am happy to report that my wheel made minimal pinging and groaning sounds for this inaugural ride, so my first attempt at wheelbuilding was a success. It's a 32h Wolber T-410 (stock from the PDG) laced 3-cross with DT Champion 1.8 spokes to an IRO high-flange fixed/fixed hub.
For those who ride fixed, what are some tips (aside from leaving the brakes on it, which I have; front and rear) for a new fixed gear rider?
I am happy to report that my wheel made minimal pinging and groaning sounds for this inaugural ride, so my first attempt at wheelbuilding was a success. It's a 32h Wolber T-410 (stock from the PDG) laced 3-cross with DT Champion 1.8 spokes to an IRO high-flange fixed/fixed hub.
For those who ride fixed, what are some tips (aside from leaving the brakes on it, which I have; front and rear) for a new fixed gear rider?
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I just took my newly fixed PDG Series-5 for a couple laps around the parking lot last night, and I've got to say that it's going to be a rough learning curve for me. I've been riding gears for so long that my muscle memory for getting on/off the bike, and my desire to coast through downhill turns, are going to be difficult to re-learn.
I am happy to report that my wheel made minimal pinging and groaning sounds for this inaugural ride, so my first attempt at wheelbuilding was a success. It's a 32h Wolber T-410 (stock from the PDG) laced 3-cross with DT Champion 1.8 spokes to an IRO high-flange fixed/fixed hub.
For those who ride fixed, what are some tips (aside from leaving the brakes on it, which I have; front and rear) for a new fixed gear rider?
I am happy to report that my wheel made minimal pinging and groaning sounds for this inaugural ride, so my first attempt at wheelbuilding was a success. It's a 32h Wolber T-410 (stock from the PDG) laced 3-cross with DT Champion 1.8 spokes to an IRO high-flange fixed/fixed hub.
For those who ride fixed, what are some tips (aside from leaving the brakes on it, which I have; front and rear) for a new fixed gear rider?
this link got lots of great info
https://63xc.com/gregg/101_1.htm
Im riding with toe clips and im still getting used to it. But after 100 miles it has become a lot easier.
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Practice, practice, practice. After you almost get thrown a couple times trying to coast, your mind will tell you not to coast, even on downhills. After a week, you won't be trying to coast and things'll be easier. If you rode like an F1 racer (quick acceleration, ride fast, brake hard), you'll figure out that smoothness is the key to riding fg (relaxed acceleration, spin comfortable, slow down instead of stop).
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I just took my newly fixed PDG Series-5 for a couple laps around the parking lot last night, and I've got to say that it's going to be a rough learning curve for me. I've been riding gears for so long that my muscle memory for getting on/off the bike, and my desire to coast through downhill turns, are going to be difficult to re-learn.
I am happy to report that my wheel made minimal pinging and groaning sounds for this inaugural ride, so my first attempt at wheelbuilding was a success. It's a 32h Wolber T-410 (stock from the PDG) laced 3-cross with DT Champion 1.8 spokes to an IRO high-flange fixed/fixed hub.
For those who ride fixed, what are some tips (aside from leaving the brakes on it, which I have; front and rear) for a new fixed gear rider?
I am happy to report that my wheel made minimal pinging and groaning sounds for this inaugural ride, so my first attempt at wheelbuilding was a success. It's a 32h Wolber T-410 (stock from the PDG) laced 3-cross with DT Champion 1.8 spokes to an IRO high-flange fixed/fixed hub.
For those who ride fixed, what are some tips (aside from leaving the brakes on it, which I have; front and rear) for a new fixed gear rider?
one thing to be very cautious of though is working with your fingers near the cog. There have been a few people, even some on this board, who have lost fingertips by getting them stuck in between the cog and chain when working on the bike.
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You mean like beginner drivers or street racer wannabes
F1 racers have to be ultra smooth otherwise the car will spin out since they don't have a lot of electronic assistance.
F1 racers have to be ultra smooth otherwise the car will spin out since they don't have a lot of electronic assistance.
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Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
https://sanfrancisco.ibtimes.com/arti...ger-photos.htm
Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
https://sanfrancisco.ibtimes.com/arti...ger-photos.htm
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Don't stop pedaling. Ever.
That's it, though, that's the whole secret. Otherwise, it's just a bike.
That's it, though, that's the whole secret. Otherwise, it's just a bike.
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I think that getting in more miles than just a couple laps around my slushy parking lot will help. It sounds to me like the main thing is just retraining myself about trying to coast.
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To re-orient your cranks before resuming after a stop: From a stop, apply your front brake and push forward on the bars to lift the rear wheel so you can move your foot to your preferred starting position.
Or you could use my preferred approach: As you get to a red light/other stop, hop to lift your back wheel, and quickly rotate your pedals to your preferred position. Hold a trackstand while stopped, and when you're ready to go, your pedals will already be in a good position to start pedalling. It took me a while to learn that one though.
Or you could use my preferred approach: As you get to a red light/other stop, hop to lift your back wheel, and quickly rotate your pedals to your preferred position. Hold a trackstand while stopped, and when you're ready to go, your pedals will already be in a good position to start pedalling. It took me a while to learn that one though.
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It is a bit more fun for an activity that is already a blast.
Plus, I discovered that I tend to stop pedaling when going from standing to sitting. Scared the living crap out of me. That one took a while for me to unlearn.
Oh and.... chain tension chain tension chain tension chain tension chain tension chain tension chain tension chain tension chain tension chain tension chain tension chain tension chain tension chain tension .
I threw my chain the first time I changed a tube. Of course I was doing about 20-25mph. Made a real lovely skid and thrashed my chainstay. Someday I will try to learn things the easy way rather than my method.
Plus, I discovered that I tend to stop pedaling when going from standing to sitting. Scared the living crap out of me. That one took a while for me to unlearn.
Oh and.... chain tension chain tension chain tension chain tension chain tension chain tension chain tension chain tension chain tension chain tension chain tension chain tension chain tension chain tension .
I threw my chain the first time I changed a tube. Of course I was doing about 20-25mph. Made a real lovely skid and thrashed my chainstay. Someday I will try to learn things the easy way rather than my method.
#19
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I just took my newly fixed PDG Series-5 for a couple laps around the parking lot last night, and I've got to say that it's going to be a rough learning curve for me. I've been riding gears for so long that my muscle memory for getting on/off the bike, and my desire to coast through downhill turns, are going to be difficult to re-learn.
I am happy to report that my wheel made minimal pinging and groaning sounds for this inaugural ride, so my first attempt at wheelbuilding was a success. It's a 32h Wolber T-410 (stock from the PDG) laced 3-cross with DT Champion 1.8 spokes to an IRO high-flange fixed/fixed hub.
For those who ride fixed, what are some tips (aside from leaving the brakes on it, which I have; front and rear) for a new fixed gear rider?
I am happy to report that my wheel made minimal pinging and groaning sounds for this inaugural ride, so my first attempt at wheelbuilding was a success. It's a 32h Wolber T-410 (stock from the PDG) laced 3-cross with DT Champion 1.8 spokes to an IRO high-flange fixed/fixed hub.
For those who ride fixed, what are some tips (aside from leaving the brakes on it, which I have; front and rear) for a new fixed gear rider?
1. figuring out what to do with my feet while starting and especially stopping -- toe clips are fun to get used to.
2. pedaling while signaling -- my tendency was to coast while I signaled, so that had to end quickly.
3. looking farther ahead and predicting where traffic will be when I get there -- especially when turning.
True enough, it's still just a bicycle, similar to the way in which a standard shift and an automatic are both transmissions. You have to get used to both styles, and once you do, switching between them will be effortless. Moreover, I find that my conditioning has improved, and so have my basic riding skills.
Regarding repair, chain tension, etc.:
1. like others said -- watch your hands! The drivetrain is essentially a chainsaw.
2. keep your pants cuffs and shoelaces FAR away from the chainsaw. I use binder clips to keep my cuffs folded well out of the way.
3. chain tension: too loose and the chain will fall off; too tight and it might bind, it will make noise, and the drivetrain will wear out faster.
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Good choice.
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Recommended reading for all cyclists - Cyclecraft - Effective Cycling
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Don't run red lights, wear a helmet, use hand signals, get some cycle lights(front and rear) and, FFS, don't run red lights!
shameless POWERCRANK plug
Recommended reading for all cyclists - Cyclecraft - Effective Cycling
Condor Cycles - quite possibly the best bike shop in London
Don't run red lights, wear a helmet, use hand signals, get some cycle lights(front and rear) and, FFS, don't run red lights!
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Tips:
I just switched from clips and straps to SPDs. I feel a lot safer with those when in traffic. So much easier to get in and out of. +1 on tucking away your pants legs and show laces. Also, concentrate on your spinning, try not to just mash down on the pedals. Find the best gear ratio for 80% of your typical rides. I got pretty close by paying attention to my geared bike.
I just switched from clips and straps to SPDs. I feel a lot safer with those when in traffic. So much easier to get in and out of. +1 on tucking away your pants legs and show laces. Also, concentrate on your spinning, try not to just mash down on the pedals. Find the best gear ratio for 80% of your typical rides. I got pretty close by paying attention to my geared bike.
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Don't lean too far in turns. I had been riding fixed for a while, and this was one of those bits of advice I had always heeded, but one day I was moving at a pretty good clip to keep pace with traffic. I was in the left lane intending to turn left, and my coasting roadie instinct had me lean in. Upon pedal strike, my rear wheel actually came off the pavement. Fortunately, I didn't crash, but that was the scariest split second I've ever had on a bike.
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