zippy753

I really like the Surly Cross-Check I saw this weekend for $900, but there are a few things I’d change from the complete bike to make it my own: seat , headset (and possibly stem), chainring, handle bars, seatpost, and maybe tires. Just these parts are at least $400 together. My local bike shop says they can customize a bike for me, but naturally, they need to know what I want.

I have no idea how to price bike components or know what they’re worth if I were to have it customized. Deore, Tiagra, TruVative, Shimano 440, Shimano 105 – I don’t know how they compare or if each one will even work with the other. I see build kits online around $1200 without frame, but the Surly build seems like piecemeal parts from the specs. So the question is; if I spend about $1300 to personalize a pre-built bike, how much better can I do if I have it customized from the ground up? I know it’s a very difficult question because it depends on preference, but I’m looking for ballpark figures and general advice about how to think about this. I’m kinda new at biking and appreciate any guidance.

Cyclaholic

FWIW here in Australia the 'savings' are huge. The price point for the mass market for a complete bike is around the cost of the groupset alone if you look at retail prices. It's still a gouge compared to shopping online, and to how much you pay for the same item in other bigger markets like the USA, but then we get stung with astronomical shipping costs since we're a mere pimple on the arse end of the planet down here.

If you're going to customize a pre-assembled bike, which is essentially what you're suggesting, and you're not already very familiar with the components then you may as well buy it and ride it as it is, and see how it works for you. You may be perfectly happy with it, or at least you'll have solid experience to base your upgrade decisions on and you'll know exactly why you want to upgrade any particular component.

Torrilin

The main reason to change handlebars is personal taste and comfort. This is a common change, but unless you've ridden a drop bar bike enough to know what your favorite bars and reach are, I wouldn't swap the Crosscheck's bars right away. It's *probably* better to adjust the reach via the stem if things are a bit off.

Saddle is a standard swap. Making a Crosscheck a triple is also pretty standard, since the normal spec means it needs a chainring and a bit of front derailler fiddling.

I can't really see why you'd swap headsets unless you're a randonneur or racer and know that you break the Crosscheck's stock one too quickly. Headsets seem to take an incredibly long time to wear out.

The tires are one of the first components you'll wear out, so unless you have a couple spares at home, I wouldn't bother.

Seatpost can be a fit swap, but if it's not a fit issue, there's a lot of "why bother?" to my mind.

The main reason I can see to build up a Crosscheck is if you want something that is Really Not Stock. So a generator hub and internally geared Crosscheck with mustache or North Road bars... that would be a good reason *g*. A bike like that would easily run $1500 or more, so the complete is a huge savings.

JustBrowsing

From the quick math that I've done on several bikes, when you buy complete vs parts at retail you end up paying about 2/3 the price. I generally view it as the frame is being thrown in for free. Look at a set of 105 brifters--retail is something like $330. If you scrounge around, you can get a set on eBay for $175-$200. If you only need a few parts, this makes sense. But if you're going to build a complete bike, you'll spend weeks hunting down all the bargains that would in effect give you the same build at the same price as if you just bought the bike complete.

OTOH, if you know you'll want to upgrade some parts, then it's worth your time and money since you'll get the bike you really wanted in the first place. Since you mention your not knowledgeable about what parts work with what, you'll want to work with your shop on this. Also, make sure they give you some sort of credit for the parts you swap out, since they'll likely be able to resell them. If they won't do that, then make sure to get the parts you swapped since you paid for them. You can then put them up on eBay yourself.

Berniebikes

Depends on what you are comparing.

If you are comparing buying all the same parts (thru whatever source) vs buying a complete bike then there is no way you can match the oem price.

If you are comparing the cost of a complete bike, plus all the parts you will change over which don't meet your desires, and credit nothing back for the extra parts, then you might be getting close to the break even point.

I've spent more in the past just changing over parts than I spent buying the original complete bike. For value sake, you can't come close to the complete bike price on your own.

d2create

It's not all about cost. There is something to be said for building your own bike.
I built my singlespeed and thinking of selling it and building another just for the fun, satisfaction, and getting exactly what I want instead of what someone else wanted. But yes, i paid AT LEAST a third more.

But if you are on a budget you'll want to buy new complete or maybe buy a used bike/frameset and start from there.

CliftonGK1

Seat - OK, swap it out for one that fits your behind. This is routine and should just be figured into the cost of a bike.

Headset - I beat the snot out of my stock Cross-Check's setup. 70 miles of chipseal, 30 mile daily commute over rough asphalt and concrete roads with choppy expansion joints, manhole covers, etc. And I weigh 240 pounds. Ride the stock headset until it's cashed, then replace it. I've got almost 1300 miles on mine since January, and it's perfectly fine.

Stem - if you need to, swap it for something with the appropriate angle/reach for you.

Handlebars - The Salsa Moto-Ace bars are really comfortable: Ergo drop section, nice flat tops, and a slight splaying to the drops like a randonneur bar. I was originally planning to replace mine with a Noodle bar, but after a week of riding the M-A I decided to keep it.

Chainrings - The 36/48 stock setup with the 12-25 cassette is weak sauce when it comes to long hill climbs. I replaced it with a 34t inner ring and an 11-32 PG-970 cassette. This eliminated the need to go for a triple crank or replace the RD. That Tiagra mid-cage handles the 32t cog without a problem, and all I had to do was make adjustments to the limit and tension screws.

Seatpost - The stock post is nice. Much like what I said about the headset; why replace it if it works fine? (Unless you need a Thompson setback post or something similar.)

All said and done, here's the mod costs to my bike:

X-Check complete at LBS - $930.00
Swapped stem at LBS - ($10.00)
Swapped tires at LBS - ($20.00)
Add fenders at LBS - $35.00
Swap chainring at home - $25.00
Swap cassette at home - $40.00
Swap saddle at LBS (from my old bike) - $0.00

Total - $1000.00

zippy753

Thanks everyone for the replies - I should have clarified that some of the changes I'd like to make are purely aesthetic and not performance, I just don't like all of the black components that come stock. The actual set-up feels good and I like the way it rides. However, I have a certain style in mind and I thought it would be fun to build something from scratch the way I want for a change.

I put all the specs into a spreadsheet and searched around for the price of the components online. The parts for the bike as sold complete would cost about $1300 - building it from scratch, the way I want, would cost about $1300 (both figures are rough, probably on the low side). Buying the bike and adding the components I want would cost about $1300, plus I would have extra parts to change around how I like - which is the main reason I'm attracted to this bike.


I haven't ridden a bike with a drop down bar since the 80's so your point is well taken. Buying the bike complete and riding for a while will allow me to compare what suits me best.


I'm starting to see that it makes sense when you want something very different like you mentioned. The changes I'd like to make aren't that drastic. Also, like the rest of you mentioned, I didn't consider that my bike shop might be able to swap out a few parts and charge/credit the difference...I didn't ask. This sounds like the best route for me so far if my shop is willing.

So thanks again for all the replies and bearing with me, you all helped me to realize how to consider my options.

Catgrrl70

I just went through this decision. I found that it would be great if I had the time, the energy, the will, the fervor, the knowledge to build the bike myself. However, I just didn't - after two weeks of research, the conclusion was reached that no way did I want to build it from scratch.

But I also knew what I wanted - a cross bike for commuting. So my default was the Surly Cross-Check. However, upon talking with a few LBS locations, my local LBS and I decided to work together to build a bike around a Soma Smoothie ES frame. They helped me pick out what I needed, swaped some parts from my now "backup bike," and talked with me through the entire process. Yes, I spent a little more than I would have than if I stuck with the Surly...but add in taxes/shipping and the better components my LBS used on the Soma and my Soma is a million times better, at least in my eyes, and wasn't much more expensive ($200 more). See if you can find a LBS who is willing to do this, it may be an option for you. Have a price in mind and let them know.

And don't talk with them over the phone. Go in person and insist on what you want. If they don't want to help you build it, it's not the place for you. (Some shops were $600-$800 above what I ended up paying b/c they quoted me only the most expensive, race quality components that I didn't need).

Torrilin

The bars are black because they're wrapped in black bar tape. That wears out and will eventually need replacement - it's kind of like tires, so I wouldn't be in a rush to get rid of it. The rest of the blackened metal can be swapped if you care that much about for pretty. For me, as long as the metallic parts are all black or all silver, I don't care (but I'm also something of a cheapskate... so if the visual is consistent, it doesn't bother me).

cerewa

There are a number of people who stand to make money telling you you're better off with a particular kind of headset, stem whatever. If you are going to believe the marketers and/or the people they've duped, you will spend a lot more.

It is possible to find new complete bikes that come with tires, headset, stem, chainring, seatpost that are just fine. Handlebars and seat may require a little more individualized attention since they ought to adapt to the particular ergonomics of your body and your riding habits. But there is probably a complete bike out there that also fits your handlebar preferences and maybe seat preferences as well.

If you don't believe me and are convinced must have a particular brand and/or style of every single part, buying a frame and parts may actually be the way to go.

roseskunk

be aware that if you get a surly complete bike, the front steer tube comes pre-cut, which means that if you're like me and want a higher position for your bars, you're f*cked. it's really ridiculous that they do this, i had to buy a second fork before i even took my bike from the shop. and those steer tubes are short too!