Am I the only one that hates front derailleurs?
#1
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Am I the only one that hates front derailleurs?
I run a 3x9 setup right now, and I would change to a 2x9 in a heart beat if I knew it meant that I wouldn't constantly be trimming my front derailleur. I am considering changing to a 1x9 setup. I know there are other people on here running 1x9. Why do you run 1x9?
If you do run a 1x9 (or 1x8, or 1x10) which cassette do you run? I have a 12-25 right now, but if I move to a 1x9 setup I might have to change the cassette to a 11-34 with a long cage derailleur.
If you do run a 1x9 (or 1x8, or 1x10) which cassette do you run? I have a 12-25 right now, but if I move to a 1x9 setup I might have to change the cassette to a 11-34 with a long cage derailleur.
#2
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I see you are in Portland, OR, so I assume you have regular climbing to do and use a triple (I guess that's what you mean by 3x9?).
But I do not understand the worry of 'constantly trimming'. How could that be any worse on a double than a triple?
Running a single chainring makes less sense, as you'd quite often be running an inefficient chainline and wearing out your parts, especially if you use the inside and outside cogs the most. Again... I'm assuming you climb and descend a lot.
Why not go with a compact? 34/50 is the most common. Then go with the same 12-25 or maybe go up to 27 or 28 if needed.
But I do not understand the worry of 'constantly trimming'. How could that be any worse on a double than a triple?
Running a single chainring makes less sense, as you'd quite often be running an inefficient chainline and wearing out your parts, especially if you use the inside and outside cogs the most. Again... I'm assuming you climb and descend a lot.
Why not go with a compact? 34/50 is the most common. Then go with the same 12-25 or maybe go up to 27 or 28 if needed.
#3
Bike ≠ Car ≠ Ped.
Trimming is easy, but in my experience it isn't needed that often. Either I'm trying to go fast and am on the big ring, or slogging up a hill and am on the small ring. I rarely need to cross chain enough to require FD trimming.
#4
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I see you are in Portland, OR, so I assume you have regular climbing to do and use a triple (I guess that's what you mean by 3x9?).
But I do not understand the worry of 'constantly trimming'. How could that be any worse on a double than a triple?
Running a single chainring makes less sense, as you'd quite often be running an inefficient chainline and wearing out your parts, especially if you use the inside and outside cogs the most. Again... I'm assuming you climb and descend a lot.
Why not go with a compact? 34/50 is the most common. Then go with the same 12-25 or maybe go up to 27 or 28 if needed.
But I do not understand the worry of 'constantly trimming'. How could that be any worse on a double than a triple?
Running a single chainring makes less sense, as you'd quite often be running an inefficient chainline and wearing out your parts, especially if you use the inside and outside cogs the most. Again... I'm assuming you climb and descend a lot.
Why not go with a compact? 34/50 is the most common. Then go with the same 12-25 or maybe go up to 27 or 28 if needed.
#5
nashcommguy
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I see you are in Portland, OR, so I assume you have regular climbing to do and use a triple (I guess that's what you mean by 3x9?).
But I do not understand the worry of 'constantly trimming'. How could that be any worse on a double than a triple?
Running a single chainring makes less sense, as you'd quite often be running an inefficient chainline and wearing out your parts, especially if you use the inside and outside cogs the most. Again... I'm assuming you climb and descend a lot.
Why not go with a compact? 34/50 is the most common. Then go with the same 12-25 or maybe go up to 27 or 28 if needed.
But I do not understand the worry of 'constantly trimming'. How could that be any worse on a double than a triple?
Running a single chainring makes less sense, as you'd quite often be running an inefficient chainline and wearing out your parts, especially if you use the inside and outside cogs the most. Again... I'm assuming you climb and descend a lot.
Why not go with a compact? 34/50 is the most common. Then go with the same 12-25 or maybe go up to 27 or 28 if needed.
I'm not a big 'compact double' fan. I think a 16t drop between front cogs is too much. JMHO. Got a new commuter w/a 36-50 and swapped out the 36 for a 40 before the box was cut away. The rear is a 9sp 12x26. 12-13-14-16-18-20-22-24-26 I NEVER use the 40 on my commute...but it's there if I ever need it, so I keep it.
Also, you can keep your current cranks, put your decided chainring in the middle position and the bashguards on either side. It'll save you some money. W/o bashguards you'll experience 'chaindrop'. Even w/unramped chainrings 'chaindrop' occurs when shifting to the smaller cogs as there's some lateral movement in the chain which will cause it to miss the next tooth and drop off. It's not a big problem, but a little aggravating when you're in the middle of a good downhill mash.
There was a thread on this very subject a couple of weeks back and climbhoser had some real good tips. Might want to do a search.
#7
simply bikin'
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But I also know a lot of guys who run a compact when they 'go climbin' and don't have a problem. Some run them all the time, although here in Ohio I'm not sure why. I recently bought one but have yet to try it out, as I won't need it until some challenge rides in VW, NY and TN this fall.
In any case, there's more than one way to skin a... commute!
#8
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
On my geared commuter I run a 2 by 8 with a 32/42 up front and an 11-32 in the rear which gives me a great gearing range for a bike that generally has a couple of loaded paniers in back and cruises pretty nicely at 30 kmh.
I spend a lot of time running the 32 as it gives me a very useful 27-79 gear inch range for urban riding and the 42 is great for when I take the bike out on the road or have the opportunity to really put the hammer down.
I spend a lot of time running the 32 as it gives me a very useful 27-79 gear inch range for urban riding and the 42 is great for when I take the bike out on the road or have the opportunity to really put the hammer down.
#9
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I'm running 39-48 and could use a little smaller and a little bigger, 34-50 might be the ticket... but I love the double. I have a triple on my other bike and will probably change it out...
#10
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My Kona Jake has a 3x8 drivetrain, but now that I've gotten a new 'fast' bike for the weekends, I am probably going to a 1x9 when I feel the Sora components are on their last legs, with a 42 front and 11-28 rear. In fact, I might make the switch late this summer so I'll have the new setup for the Tour de Canal on the C&O path this Fall.
#11
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OK, i've never commuted in portland;
but do live in northern VT- we do have some hills.
my primary commuter is a 1x9 crosscheck,
34 t chainring with 11-34 cassette.
before I went with the 1x9, kept track of what
ratios I used most. they were 35 and 65 ratios.
the 34 t 11-34 gives me those, plus two above and
two below and a few in the middle.
up works great for me, pragmatic for a commute.
but do live in northern VT- we do have some hills.
my primary commuter is a 1x9 crosscheck,
34 t chainring with 11-34 cassette.
before I went with the 1x9, kept track of what
ratios I used most. they were 35 and 65 ratios.
the 34 t 11-34 gives me those, plus two above and
two below and a few in the middle.
up works great for me, pragmatic for a commute.
#12
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i hate them both right now because i can not adjust them, i get frustrated and ride it to the local shop and let them adjust it, lucky i know the guy and he will do that stuff for free. They charge for tune ups
#13
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Went 1x8 because I didn't have a Fr. Der., had a singlespeed crankset on, but I wanted some gearage. I like it aight, but I'm putting a compact double on my new bike.
#14
always rides with luggage
Yes, I hate front derailleurs. 1x8 here.
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--Ben
2006 Trek SU100, 2009 Motobecane Fantom CX, 2011 Motobecane Fantom Cross Uno, and a Bakfiets
Previously: 2000 Trek 4500 (2000-2003), 2003 Novara Randonee (2003-2006), 2003 Giant Rainier (2003-2008), 2005 Xootr Swift (2005-2007), 2007 Nashbar 1x9 (2007-2011), 2011 Windsor Shetland (2011-2014), 2008 Citizen Folder (2015)
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#15
GATC
I came to tolerate my FD w/ when I gave up on indexed shifting. Although if I didn't have to haul kids/cargo I'd be fine w/ a 1xwhatever gearing.
#16
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I too hate front derailleurs. I commuted everywhere on a fixed gear for so long that the 1x6 I run now feels luxurious.
#17
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I don't like it either, so i ripped it right off and i'm running 7 gears instead of 21. No big deal since i use 3 or 4 max.
#18
Fossil
My commuter is set up with a 32 tooth chainwheel and a 7-speed cluster mounted to an SRAM 3-speed hub. Except for the added noise of the 3-speed hub, it has been a great combination for the past 2K miles. All shifting is done with the right hand and it gives a useful and wide range of ratios. I rarely use the largest and smallest cogs and this is a fairly hilly area.
#19
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My commuter is set up with a 32 tooth chainwheel and a 7-speed cluster mounted to an SRAM 3-speed hub. Except for the added noise of the 3-speed hub, it has been a great combination for the past 2K miles. All shifting is done with the right hand and it gives a useful and wide range of ratios. I rarely use the largest and smallest cogs and this is a fairly hilly area.
#20
Senior Member
My front derailleur hardly gets any use b/c I run a (somewhat wimpy) 46-36 setup on two of my three bikes. I pretty much stay on the 46 all the time, unless I encounter something pretty steep. This makes me think about moving up a tad to a 48-36, but I like things the way they are.
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Would it be possible for you to post some pics of this set-up? This gives you 21 gears, right? Or did I miss something? Does the igh have a twist shift? And the cluster have a dt or stem shifter? I realize SB(RIP) had some 63 gear crazy set-up he did for fun, but this sounds reasonable and and doable. Have been wanting to do a igh tourer for my wife, but as a Rohloff is too pricey and the Shimano doesn't have enough range for loaded touring, this may be a good compromise. Thanks alot.
#22
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I run 1x8 with a 42t chain ring in front and a 11-34 cassette in the rear. It gives me plenty of range to tackle steep hills, headwinds, etc, etc.
I agree with nashcommguy on the setup. I commute with a Sugino 68x103 BB, Spot Brand chainring, and Sugino crankarms (don't remember which type) and it works great.
I agree with nashcommguy on the setup. I commute with a Sugino 68x103 BB, Spot Brand chainring, and Sugino crankarms (don't remember which type) and it works great.
#23
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I am currently running one of my commuter road bikes as a 1X9 with 42 up front and an 11/32 on the rear with a 105 long cage rear mech. Love it, except that the gaps bewteen gears can be a little big.
#24
nashcommguy
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#25
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I hate front derailleurs for triple cranks when they are out of adjustment and while I am adjusting them until I get it right and then I like them again. Even with triples, they stay in alignment for a long time, in my experience. Can't do without a triple on my recumbent and our tandem, if I/we want to make it up steep stuff.