I think part of the way the get prices down is using outdated parts that may use standards largely unused in modern parts.

I also think Shimano had better be careful trying to sell cheap parts to Pacific and quality stuff to everyone else. I suspect that when people walk into a bike shop looking for a bike where the cassette won't strip teeth right away they'll be disappointed to see that the bike shop bikes say Shimano and so did their crappy x-mart bike. Then they may notice similarly priced bikes that say "SRAM."

What's exciting about that? That's hardly a lot of miles...


I do know a guy that killed his wal-mart bike in under 100 miles though. I think he said it was less than a week before the cassette begun shedding teeth. Big guy though, probably jumped on it. Good thing the chain was installed correctly!

I am afraid i can't back it up, but I do recall reading it online somewhere.

[found the link]: http://www.cyclingforums.com/forum/t...20-6-mile-ride

Maybe there is an element of truth to it, or maybe not. I doubt, I even reached couple of hundred miles on my college/commuter wally bike. [I didn't even bother with a bike computer to keep track of it. The bike was a necessity rather than recreation or hobby, as it is now]

Nowadays, i easily ride 50-60 miles every weekend. I am going get a cheapo (< $100) wally bike and post pictures, reviews, and mileage report...it should help many newbies to judge for themselves on what to buy and what to avoid. [I may be wrong; the wally bikes may not crap out as easily as I would expect, or maybe it will. Would like to find out].

This is from memory, but I thought those were aluminum frames wrapped with carbon? Why anyone would do that, aside from duping the unwitting, is beyond me.

I'm not saying 3,000 a ton of miles, but when you've got people claiming that a Walmart bike is only going to last 100...

That may have been the case, but it was all Shimano 105 - even the crank and the whole bike sold for less than you can find a 105 groupset. If I hadnt already put my bike together when I saw it, I would have bought it just to strip for parts.

Was it new 105 or the last version of 105? Group prices drop quite a bit after a year.
5600
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&t...&aqi=&aql=&oq=

5700
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&t...&aqi=&aql=&oq=

Probably old - I dont remember and they dont have the bike up any more. I had just bought parts for my bike when I saw the post and the whole bike was about the same or less than I had seen new groupsets sell for.

I'll gladly ride my $200 Schwinn Avenue/Trailway (Walmart/Target). They've hardly proven to be disposable bikes. I put about 1500 miles on one before buying the second to use as a backup/errand/basket bike.

I don't know when I may have to replace bearings, chainrings or freewheel. But, I've already bought packets of 100 bearings mailorder for $5. I bought 2 sets of chainrings and freewheels mailorder for about $40.

I figure with the $1000 I saved I can buy one of those spandex clown suits "real" cyclists wear. That's what I've always wanted to do: ride down the road with a pink boa flung over my shoulder, screaming "Fabulouuuussss" like I'm Liza Minelli. (wink)

Seriously, I'm sure a $1500 bike is better. But, calling department-store bikes disposable seems like hyperbole. I think the biggest problem with department store bikes is that they need a total reassembly. I believe if people clean/grease bearings, bottom bracket, etc., they'll have a fairly reliable bike. Maybe hone down sharp edges inside the wheel, and install Velox rim tape.

I believe the 25-mile experience some purchasers experience is a reflection of the purchaser, not the bike.

I believe you're starting from the same falacy many "real" bike advocates do. Sub $100 isn't representative of Walmart bikes. Many positive reports say the approximately $200 bikes are decent quality and a good value for the money. (Especially if overhauled immediately after purchase).

Not all Walmart bikes are the same. I wouldn't recommend the $100 Huffy and Mongoose mountain bikes (except maybe kid bikes.).

I rarely see any bike's in the $200 range at my local WM store. I do see few road bikes and cruiser ($200 +) bikes pop up once in a while, and I do admit those bikes seem to be Much better quality, but all the parts seem generic as well.

Majority of the bikes are in the $100 range.

http://www.walmart.com/search/search...h_constraint=0


I will be reviewing this bike: (just out of curiosity and for cheap bicycle fun) :)

http://www.walmart.com/ip/26-Men-s-R...-Bike/13398147

I did see few bikes in the $200 range that had sram and shimano label on the rear derrailluer. I did a google on those parts and came up with nothing. [musts be discontinued, or are embarrassed to market it].

As for the "bottom of the barrel" bikes, there are no name parts, eg rear derailleurs, crank, brakes, etc. Everything is generic, crappy quality...no-name brands..

I don't think it is appropriate for a reviewer with a biased opinion to comment on his/her experiences with a product. :p

I would be interested to see you do a few centuries on it though.

I am afraid I may not take it for long rides. One thing, or another may fail without warning, and leave me stranded 50 mile away from home. I guess I will have to loop around close to home. I have some hilly terrain not too far away from my apartment. It should be able to test it good.


If I can grab one at the local WM today, I will post some pictures tonight.

Either WM bikes are too cheap or the parts or more expensive. [It's usually the parts on the bike that dictates the price.]


Maybe after I receive my WM bike, I should slap a $400 brooks saddle on it and ride in style :-)

Oki doke. Finally pulled the trigger on Wally Roadmaster.

Some pics: https://picasaweb.google.com/sonnet....ster#slideshow


Price Paid: $78.00

Pros:
1) Nice steel frame, handle bar and fork. [also does not look cheesy like mongoose or next bikes]
2) The chain ring and freewheel cogs does seem decent and should last for a while under normal use.
3) The rims and wheel seem ok. (tires are trued as well, but haven't ridden it yet)
4) It weighs less than my Surly, so can't complain on weight...
5) I can use this bike as a spare bike..

Cons:
1) The derailleurs are very poor quality. [Anyone ever heard of "TD One" brand?]
2) The grip shifts will not last long, and can't replace if broken. [same "TD one" no-name brand.]
3) Brakes are cheap and flimsy. It's will be hard to adjust, if not impossible. [it did not come adjusted properly.]
4) The crank-arm and pedals are cheap. I am sure if i stand up and pedal, this will be the first to go.
5) I have no idea what size the bottom bracket shell is? Anyone?
6) The wheels are not trued properly..
7) EDIT: The rear derailleur is wobbly and does not align straight with the cogs. It's makes an annoying clicking noise when pedaling. I will try to adjust the H and L and see if it does the trick or not.

Anyways...just thought i would share my experience. I will update as time goes by. I will take it out this weekend for a ride...lets see how it holds up :-)

Cheers.

To me, it actually wouldn't "look" half bad with a new crankset/BB and rigid fork.

As to your derailer question in the caption, since there's no derailer hanger, you can't easily mount any quality derailer to it. I think there might be some claw adapters that will accept better derailers, not sure though.

Shimano Tourney could probably be fit to the bike, assuming shifter actuation is fairly normal.

Wooo, horizontal dropouts. That thing's begging to be run fixed.

I'm tempted to buy the same bike so I can report how wonderful my experience is.

That is, after all, sonnet's intent: to attempt to vindicate his pre-conclusions by "reviewing" the bike. :p

It does seem to have a hanger, but not sure where you can find one similar. I would agree. It should probably be hassle free if run as a fixed grear. I did a searly on TD ONE brand and came up with THIS.

I doubt TD ONE would sell spares. It would defeat the purpose of manufacturing cheap/disposable bikes. I will give Pacific Bikes a call and see what they have to say. http://www.pacific-cycle.com/


EDIT: You are right. There is no rear derailluer hanger. That is actually a part of the rear derailleur. I will call Pacific Bikes and inquire about it. Would like to know what they have to say or if they are willing to sell spare parts..

Nah..not really. The truth is i need a spare bike...to go biking with friends (who obviously dont own bikes). (Also, the curiosity and the thrill of cheap products or just something to tinker. Maybe, i'm just a hoarder ;). who knows...this bike may be very expensive or a collection piece someday. You never know ;-)

Cons:
1) The derailleurs are very poor quality. [Anyone ever heard of "TD One" brand?]

Not 'til just now.

2) The grip shifts will not last long, and can't replace if broken. [same "TD one" no-name brand.]

Why do you assume they won't last long? As for replacement, there are still 7-speed index shifters available. You'd just have to ascertain compatibility. You might have to replace freewheel/cassette along with shifters. Or the budget option - friction thumbshifters. $14 a pair, IIRC.

3) Brakes are cheap and flimsy. It's will be hard to adjust, if not impossible. [it did not come adjusted properly.]

Those brake arms certainly aren't confidence inspiring.

4) The crank-arm and pedals are cheap. I am sure if i stand up and pedal, this will be the first to go.
5) I have no idea what size the bottom bracket shell is? Anyone?

One piece cranks typically have a giant BB shell. Search for one piece cranks or Ashtabula cranks for specs and you should be able to find the info. I don't know if there are any BBs made to fit that shell and 3-piece cranks. I'd probably ditch it for a BMX crank upon death if there aren't any decent multi-ring or 3-piece alternatives. There may be alternatives, though.

It's actually 6 speed. Yes, you are right and replacing the freewheel would be a good idea and there are many standard SRAM or Shimano parts available. The Friction Shifters are also a good idea. But I will most likely convert it to a single speed if any problem arises with the drive train. [It can serve as a backup or beater bike]

Very interesting. Thanks for the info. I have to do some research on it.

Cheers.

Ashtabula (one piece) cranks used to be found on a lot of good bikes... but now they only show up on very low end bicycles.

Those brakes are made of cheese and will need to be replaced... immediately.

The rear derailleur looks like it was copied from an early 80's Huret but could be replaced with a modern derailleur and a claw.

Apply any serious torque to that crank and you may bend the chain rings... they are pressed and not cast.

I bet that none of the bearings have any appreciable amount of grease in them.

There are dozens of companies in China that make copies of old and new components.

Most of it is stuff they are too embarrassed to talk about, although I have seen Shimano Tourney and Altus on a few WM bikes. One thing that surprised me though, was weighing a few rear derailleurs I had lying around. XT and 105, ~8 oz. Cheap SRAM RD from a $100 bike, ~5 oz.

I fixed up something similar to that Roadmaster for a friend. Aside from the fork it wasn't terrible. The one I had did not seem to have the canti/v-brake studs in the right place, something was wrong with the rear, and I had to make some odd kludge using half of the original and half of another set. At least it stopped well after that.

If you want to replace stuff on it, Sunrace indexed thumb shifters are decent and cheap, they do make 6-speed ones, although I prefer friction. For a derailer, you can get Shimano Tourney that has the claw. I'd probably replace the grips too, I have never seen a Wal-Mart bike with comfortable ones, they prefer to have the logo of the company molded in extremely hard rubber that just about cuts up your hands.

There's a reason your local bike shop can't sell you a bike for that low a cost. I don't see anything wrong with buying a bike from Walmart other than their labor practices. If you buy a used bike from a local shop you'll be doing more to support that local biking community and the jobs they provide, albeit a small number. That is, of course, not necessarily useful if you don't have local shops nearby.