MTB or Hybrid
 

Hey guys and gals,

I want to start commuting to my workplace (10 mile roundtrip commute through additions and side streets). My question: Should I purchase a MTB or a Hybrid to conduct this commute? Would a MTB be that much harder than a hybrid to bike 5 miles on way? Was thinking about a MTB because I though off roading sounds like a fun new hobby conducted through my LBS. Also, Wouldn't a MTB be a more versitile bike if I can put smoothies on it or ride it year around through moderate snow? Any opinions would be great.....Thanks

spigot

I commuted for awhile on a low-end hybrid. It was OK. But then I bought a medium-grade MTB ($700 bike on sale for $450). After putting slicks on it, it is a pretty good commuter. I now have two sets of wheels: slicks for commuters and knobs for trail riding. Of course I do trail riding maybe 3 times a year.

So I think that if you want one bike that fulfills two needs, then go for the MTB. And consider a second set of wheels if you'll be hitting the trails regularly.

Go with the mountain bike. If you have any inkling to go off road, then a full MTB will make life easier to find parts, replace parts and your enjoyment. A MTB is not going to be noticeable slower in a 5 mile commute if you simply outfit the bike with slicks or semi slicks if you do any off roading. I use semi-slicks because I do both trail riding and road riding depending on my mood and the conditions of my commute.

Jay

I think it depends upon how important trail riding is to you, relative to commuting. Almost anything will work for light offroad riding -- even a road bike. I ride a Kettler Silverstar commuter/touring bike, and it would certainly work well for off road, as long as there were no sticks to get tangled in the fenders. It uses hybrid-size tires, and I have a set of Nokian studded snow tires that work fine in the winter.

Paul

I've done both-- Miyata Triplecross for about 10 years of commuting, and now a Trek 6700 mtb.

The hybrid was great, but the more upright riding style got to be a drag. For slightly faster riding, the Triplecross wasn't as efficient or comfortable because I was too upright on the bike.

The 6700 is more of a cross-country mtb, and a bit more stretched out on the geometry, but with road slicks I can cruise pretty well into wind, down hills, and mtb out of saddle stuff. Overall, my riding position is more comfortable, and the workout is more transferable to my other bikes. I'm also glad I switched to a Vaude cycling backpack for gear, becuase the bike is much more responsive now and feels better to do commuting/training rides on. The limitations of the Triplecross kept it as mostly a commuter.

Caveats-- not all mtbs are the same, and some had much better geometries than others for my needs. Also, don't "overbuy" on the dual suspension stuff. Just because the market is for "downhill" bikes with massive suspension travel doesn't mean you need 5 inches of bounce for commuting.

Secondly, some of the commuting-specific bikes might be worth a test ride, like the Burley with a triple crank. It's unfortunate that the REI commuter is a single crank in front. It is possible to get a bike that's "too specialized" to a single purpose.

Finally, for all-weather commuting, disc brakes look like a good idea, as long as you feel they're designed in a way that maintence isn't a big deal. Reading the boards, I've heard great things about the Avid mechanicals, but also that the cables can be hard to keep clean. Some are going back to the hydraulics because of this. I just wish I had the discs for wet-weather commuting and better braking.

I commute almost entirely on road bikes, but I am rebuilding an old Trek 850 as a bad-weather bike. My concerns with a MTB would be largely centered around the suspension, which adds weight to the bike and decreases the amount of energy going into the drive. As in most things, suspension is a trade-off. If you're commuting, you might look for an older MTB with a hardtail and a non-suspension fork. Disc brakes are nice, but hub/drum brakes, like the shimano nexus, are even better (less maintanence). I like the set-up of one of burley models: drum in back, disc in front. A bike set up soley for commuting, with fenders and racks, isn't a bad idea if you're going to do it regular-like.

But hey, you can commute on almost any bike. Get one, commute, and have fun.

The ideal MTB for commuting is an old-skool ridgid one. Sus forks are not needed, even for light trail riding. Kona make a nice steel fork.
I think the ideal bike for commuting/light trail would probably be one of the new style of cyclo-cross/touring bikes, like a Bianchi Volpe. They are very versatile and efficient.

Nothing wrong with the brand, but does the frame have threaded fittings for rack and fender? Even if you dont use them now, you may want to ride in the wet, or carry luggage at some point. Without them, you are stuck.

Not really stuck, you can equip bikes without lower or upper eyelets with racks. You can also get a front fender on a MTB without fender eyelets too. Of course, this is not the most ideal method though but as you are looking at a new bike, look for them. At $280, not likely, but check especially the front fork to see if it allows for standard linear pull or even cantilever brakes. Some of the more high-zoot front forks out there are "disc brake only" which means they don't have the brake bosses on the upper part of the fork. Racks that are suspension fork mountable, typically would use the brake bosses as the upper connection point.

Jay

i thought the disadvantage with mtn bikes was the tyres size... 26 vs 700C... ie - more mechanical advantage

i got a apollo himalaya which has nice length so you can stretch out for commutes.... also profile bar ends help in that regard

I used to have a scott boulder, and the only thing that was good for was tight technical single trails... it was too short for commuting... and i don't think the "biopace" helped at all

my advice? mtb with slicks.... most ppl i know with hybrids are somewhat dissapointed...

mtbing is awesome fun!

Check out sjscycles.com for a sensible discussion on 26" vs 700c, for comparable commuter/touring use.
In practice, the difference is marginal. Its not like you are comparing a thin high pressure racing tyre to a fat knobbly one. A lot of modern tourists use a touring bike (NOT MTB) with 26" wheels.

Go with whichever one you feel most comfortable on. Although if the streets on your route to work are rough, the MTB would have a leg up. Many roads present tougher riding conditions than a lot of off-road trails. A mountain bike with thick tires was extremely useful when I lived in a neighborhood with brick streets. The streets between my home and my office are littered with potholes and rough pothole repairs (fortunately, I take a path most days).

mmm.. interesting... i thought the racers had an advantage... oh well.... obviously my fitness is the main issue then ;)

personally, i like to not have to think twice about jumping gutter.... or falling into a pothole

regarding front suspension, i got old RST 381, i have not probs with bobbing

oh yeah, i suppose, u gotta remember, we are commuting not racing :D

I, too, am looking to purchase a new bike after many years out of the loop.

The confusion for me is often what the pros/cons are for each of these options. For example, what is better about buying a street bike over a mountain bike with slicks? Or why have/not have fenders?

Some people have said no suspension on the street, whereas it would seem to me that some suspension might make the ride smoother (as in my car). What is the downside to having shocks for the commute?

Thanks all!
- Josh

As the shocks travel, they take energy away from your drivetrain. They also add weight to the bike, and really do little for the ride on pavement. You can avoid most any obstacle that would make shocks even mildly usefull by the simple expedient of paying attention.

Fenders are great if you intend to ride in the wet, or if you live in a wet climate, where such rides are unavoidable. Otherwise, they add some wind resistance to the ride. I'm setting up a single bike with them, especially after last year, where it seemed to rain here every other day.

Road bikes are, in general, quicker than MTBs, but most newer riders prefer the upright position an MTB affords. Vision is very important on a commuter-- the obstacles you encounter move around at random and often seem to intentionally try to hit you (mostly because said obstacles are driven by idiots, but that's another matter). If you're trying commuting as a newer rider, I'd recommend an upright position (MTB over road). If you can find an older, well made steel frame, it'll last forever with some care. Early MTBs make nice commuters. I ride road bikes because, well, I've been riding them forever.

I like a slightly wider tire on my roadies; I've got a mix of 25 and 28cs, as well as a single bike set up with 27 x 1 3/8. (The trek 850 will have 26 x 1.25). I don't think I'd commute on 20s.

Rack and fender eyelets on your frame give you the option NOT too use them as well. Dont get a commuter bike without the fittings.
Suspension adds weight and maintenance, and is not needed. Not so long ago, people used to do serius MTB racing without bounce.
Cross-country style MTBs (high quality, lightweight ones designed for racing)can often have quite a low aggressive riding position, quite comparable with a road bike. Look at the difference in height between the saddle and bars.

Your roads are better than ours. While shocks don't do much good on smooth pavement, the road between my house and my job is horrible. Sorry for repeating myself, but the whole right lane is often covered with giant cracks, potholes, and poorly-patched potholes. Sometimes the left lane has the same problem. It is a bus route, and buses eat pavement. It is rougher than a lot of the off-road biking I used to do. I also used to live in a neighborhood with brick streets. Again, it was worst than driving off road. I usually avoid the road by taking a longer bike path, so I live withut the shocks. But if I were taking the most direct city street to work for my 5-8 mile commute, I'd be looking for a MTB with shocks.

I think fenders are close to a necessity if you drive in wet conditions.

When the roads are wet, oil floats to the top of the water. Consequently, fenderless bikes spray you with both water and dirty oil, which results in a black strip down the back of whatever you are wearing. This is bad if it is a cycling jersey. It is worse if it is a $1,000 suit.

The road spray from fenderless bikes also can carry sand, grit, and salt, especially in the winter. This can easily wear out a chain in a few months. It can have similar results with the bottom bracket and other moving parts of the bike.

Last winter, one of my routes had big blocks of ice. Studded tires kept me upright, but I went wham! wham! wham! the whole way. I actually think suspension might have helped.

Paul

"Your roads are better than ours."

We can argue on the value of suspension, but I'm not sure we can really compare roads. Who knows whose is better? We've got a nice abundance of potholes, sloppy road patchings, and other disasters. I don't, however, ride on a bus route, but on the occasions I wander downtown am amazed by the damage those monsters do over a good winter. I do, however, have a nice deep 2' x 4' pothole in front of my house, which is on a low traffic street. I just haven't managed to hit it on a bike yet, mostly because I know it's there. My current commute takes me over a railroad crossing, a brick paved street (monument Ave), and a succesion of metal plates placed atop the street surface rather sloppily, in addition to the potholes/repairs. But I still wouldn't ride a suspension bike on them-- I'll just steer around them.

So, let's say the roads are of marginal quality, but I still choose to go with a street bike (no suspension) -- will the tires be an issue now? There was mention earlier of having knobbier tires for bad roads; how do I decide what tires are appropriate? Will I damage street tires if the road is really bad?

Thanks!

With the distance involved it wouldn't matter greatly either way,Ive been doing 20 to 25 klm a day on a cheap mtb knobly tyres and all, but just bought a road bike it is a LOT faster and easier to cover longer distances.
Good Luck
GeeBee

While you can steer around the occasional pavement irregularity, there's nothing you can do when significant stretches of the entire road is irregular. But I agree that shocks are not needed for most road-biking (I don't have shocks). Spigot will just have to check his road conditions and buy the appropriate bike. If the roads are mostly good, shocks are a waste of money and energy.

No need for a suspension fork on the mountain bike to handle the irregular surfaces. You can accomplish the suspension through running fat tires with low rolling resistance such as Schwalbe's Big Apple (26 x 2.35 and available directly online from Schwalbe) and maybe a Brooks sprung saddle like the Champion Flyer (Can be had for $59 on the net). Or, a more expensive route is the Thudbuster suspension seatpost at $90 - $125.

You could also go with a 700c mountain bike set up to have the best of both worlds for commuting. Big hoops and fat tires (again - Big Apple's at 700c x 2.0 or 700 x 2.35) would really soak up the hits of uneven road surface. You wouldn't even need a suspension fork - you could run a rigid fork (such as Surly's). Great steel frame from Surly available called the Karate Monkey. Build up your own commuter. Or Gary Fisher is a production company with the two-niner hybrids (come with front suspension) where you would probably want to get the one with the lockout fork so when riding the sections where the road is smooth you could lockout the fork and not waste any power to the drivetrain.

Me? I've got tandems, recumbents, mountain bikes, Surly Karate Monkey, Big Apple tires - I'll take anything to work on my commute cause I love it all. No fenders or racks though. I wear waterproof pants and jacket when need be (also work well in winter to block out the cold) and carry all my office goodies on my back. Been doing that for 9 years now.

Newest commute set-up is a Burley Koosah (like 2 days old) running Big Apple 26 x 2.35 in the rear and a 20 x 2.35 up front at 40 psi. Big volume, incredible rollers and all the suspension I could ever want. Monday will be the maiden commute voyage...

BB