Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  

Go Back   > >

Commuting Bicycle commuting is easier than you think, before you know it, you'll be hooked. Learn the tips, hints, equipment, safety requirements for safely riding your bike to work.

User Tag List

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-31-08, 05:30 PM   #1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 135
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I am contemplating a franken-bike project, what should I keep in mind.

So towards the end of the summer I destroyed my beloved LHT. Even though I had to leave that state 2 days later (still bruised and stitched up and sore as hell) I managed to get a lovely friend to ship me 90% of the components from the LHT complete. As I had already talked to a guy about buying a frame for a cheap fixie build before the wreck I went ahead with the purchase and have been commuting on the cheap on my fixie since. However I have moved again and my terrain is not as flat. Almost as an afterthought from the same guy I bought an old Iron Horse Mountain bike (80's early 90's easy; at least I think so)

So after all that setup the question is: would it be worthwhile to transfer all the nice-ish LHT components to the iron horse while I am saving for another trucker frame. How are old Iron Horse frames?? What compatibility issues am I looking at? LHT had 700c wheels as opposed to 26s on the Iron horse frame. Derailleurs might also be another issue. How do you decide on a chain line with a multi speed bike (ie BB width?) Technical stuff aside, would it even be worth the trouble?

Your thoughts?
TheatreME is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-08, 11:23 PM   #2
Senior Member
Iowegian's Avatar
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Boulder, Colo
Posts: 1,908
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 44 Post(s)
Probably not worth the trouble in my book. I don't know all the specs on the LHT vs the Iron Horse but some of the things that can go wrong include: BB (68mm vs 73mm), spindle length/chainline, tubing size for FD clamp, FD bottom/top pull/swing, FD throw vs. chainline. Then there is the seatpost sizing, wheel sizing, rear cassette compatibility, canti vs V-brake, etc.

If you do go this route I'd consider using a single chainring up front. That would let you run a number of gears with minimal effort.
Iowegian is offline   Reply With Quote

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:55 AM.

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to and affiliated sites.
  • Ask a Question
    get answers from real people!
Click to start entering your question.