d_D

I'm sure with current plastic tech you could produce a very good chaincase for pretty cheap. Fitting a chaincase on the other hand is always going to be a bit of a fiddly operation. I wouldn't be surprised if the assembly costs of fitting a chaincase is a big reason trek are using belts.

DogBoy

I'm a bit leery of a belt drive for two reasons. First, the break in the frame. Second, the potential issue with gravel. In the motorcycle world, belts + gravel = bad. On my bike I tend to ride through rougher offroad type stuff often...cutting through ditches, offroad trails etc.

I'd like to see how they respond when gravel gets in the belt. My fear is that it would jam the drivetrain, leading to a potential crash. I guess if you got a full "belt"-case to go around it this wouldn't be a problem.

I-Like-To-Bike

I'd be amazed if there is anything beyond an infinitesimal interest in equipping any bicycles sold to the general public, unless some reason (big or small) surfaces that makes belt driven bikes economically practical for manufacturers or users; or somehow desirable over a simple, inexpensive, minimal maintenance roller chain. That some bicycle enthusiasts obsess over maintaining the cleanliness of their bike chain with daily/weekly rituals hardly is a "big reason" for the rest of general public to see the light over the latest hi tech gimmick.

unterhausen

one thing they mention is that when you get your pants stuck in the chain, they get greasy. Only thing is, when you get your pants stuck in the belt, they get stuck. So you still have to keep your pants out of the belt.

I'm starting to think about this. I had a lot of trouble with my chain on friday, I guess the bike was just the right temp to freeze water in the freewheel or the chain would skip. By the time I got to work, I could only use 1st gear.

Ned_Detroit

I don't see any good reason why one couldn't come up with a case to cover the belt drive that would protect from gravel, ice and snow, UV rays, stray pant legs, and even knife wielding vandals, and eliminate the noise problems that sometimes come with ill-fitting chaincases and loose chains. Of course then you wouldn't be able to show off the newfangled belt drive. Maybe for version 2.0

dynaryder

Properly designed,it shouldn't be a problem. And you don't need a break in the frame if you raise the right chainstay. See the CDrive bike pics.

Do you have any idea what belts are made of? They're not fragile. I posted the result of a rock getting into the belt of my Harley and not doing any damage. I keep hearing all this crap from the motorcycle world about sharp rocks will cut a belt,but I've never seen it happen. Harley's been running belts on their motorcycles for decades with zero issues.

The belt would stretch slightly,the rock would ride around the pulley,and then be ejected. I mean c'mon now,really. What about the gaps in the links of chains? What happens if a stick gets in there? It could cause a catostrophic crash!

If someone posted that they got a rock in their belt drive and it caused them to crash,I would call BS.

unterhausen

I got my finger stuck in a timing belt and this is exactly what happened. I'm not too worried about it. Just like any belt, periodic inspections would be warranted.

I think I'm going to build myself a frame with the special dropouts if I can find them.

meb

I own a folder that has a belt drive- the belt is greasless so you don't get chain grease on your work clothes. It has a Sachs Torpedo 2 speed overdrive hub. The belt is generally more reliable than the chains with less maintenance-but the lack of grease on the clothes is the main benefit. I find the belt will slip under the stress of a steep climb.

Nightshade

Is your belt a toothed belt or "V" belt? If "V" is the belt old or dirty/glazed from use? I so
then a new belt is in order. If a toothed belt are the "teeth" solid on both the belt & sprokets?
In both cases is the belt tight?

makeinu

Can't you get all the benefits of your folders and utility bikes with Worksman bikes at a much lower cost?...all the benefits except low weight.

I like the belt concept, but I think it will always be more expensive because I understand that belts require finer tolerances than chains.

cod.peace

Just wondering, have you tried one of the titanium nitride-coated chains from KMC? This is sure to be more corrosion resistant, although I wonder if it's worth the money for you to try!

Metricoclock

im curious to what happens when you suck debris up into it, chunk of salt? stick? stone?

dynaryder

That's what would happen.

ItsJustMe

??? I'm willing to ride in 110°+ weather too. But it still rains here even in the summer, then I'm back to cleaning and lubing again. Perhaps what you meant is, that's why you're glad you don't ride on gravel roads and live in a temperate climate?

ItsJustMe

Haven't seen those. I might try them... OMG I just went and googled them. $50 for a chain? I'm paying $5 now. I've tried $15 chains and they don't last a moment longer than $5 chains. For $50 it'd have to last 18000 miles to break even. I don't believe that it could last that long.

It looks like in order to get one you have to get their ultralight chain, which I have no interest in.

meb

It's a toothed belt.
It's only a problem on steep climbs-but it's not a problem I experience on chain bikes.

meb

Worksman is pretty heavy-my folder is a sub 20 lb bike.

ItsJustMe

Just to show what the conditions here are...

Here's a photo of my chain on Sunday. This is typical if I lube and wipe down on Wednesday night, then ride Thursday and Friday, and go out to do pre-ride maintenance on Sunday. The curves you see there are the shape of the cog that it was on when I stopped; the chain wouldn't bend much.


So two days of riding, then 1.5 days of sitting in the garage. It took me 20 minutes to get the chain back to working condition again; I have to apply oil (for winter I'm using 30W motor oil, though I've tried different stuff) and then I have to manually flex each link to break it loose; some are tight enough that they leave indentations on my fingers when I push, before they finally snap loose and the oil works into the joint.

Here's typically what my bike will look like after cleaning it then riding it the 11 miles to work:

SlimAgainSoon

Wow. Michigan seems ... like a lovely state.

ItsJustMe

It absolutely is. I certainly wouldn't want to live somewhere without winter. As it is we don't really get enough snow to have proper fun. I used to live farther north and winter was great up there.

In the winter I can put on a jacket, and in the summer it never gets so hot that I don't want to be outside. We get to enjoy the entire year. In most places where there isn't a cold winter, the summers are at least partially unbearable.

iwegian

for what these bikes will likely be used for, i'm sure it'll do just fine. for belt drive bikes, also look at spot bikes

Ericx25

https://www.nicolai.net/products/e-fr...-argon-tr.html

miket.

I'm really curious about these bikes, but being heavier i'm worried that the belt would slip alot. and i know that with the carbon and kevlar construction they arent supposed to stretch easily but how true is that? due to chain stretch and wear i have to replace it and the cassette about once a year, so i usually don't worry much about lube and just buy new parts in the early spring.
if the belt drive could save me money and keep an oil slick off my linoleum, i'd be pretty interested in it. but no way im considering it until the technology can prove itself.
another concern is road salt, can the belts stand up to that corrosion?

also on the subject of michigan roads: opening a car wash in michigan has got to be a sound investment.

unterhausen

I don't think the belt will stretch at all. You have to watch out for breakage

Allen

My first was under a grand (have had that one for a while).
#2 was about twelve hundred.
I laced the wheel on the second myself.