What do you think
 

Getting closer to purchasing my 1st. commuter bike. Found this on craigs list in seattle and was wondering if i can get anybody's thoughts on it. If it helps you i am 5'-8" and my commute will be about 7 miles one way. One quetion i had was is the bike going to be to small. Here is the craigslist posting number if you don't mine taking a look at it and giving me some feedback. Posting number is 1018937668. Bike will be used for seattle streets. Thanks again everybody. Brad

I'll help you out; here's a link to the craigslist ad: http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/1018937668.html

It's hard to tell but it may be a little small for you. Also, I don't know what your local market is like, but I wouldn't pay that much, even though the bike appears to be in fine shape.

Thanks Lambo for both the help with the posting and with your input.

I agree that it would probably be too small for you. 16" is usually called size small, you want something more like a medium.

The market here is high. $175 isn't a terrible asking price. This bike has been on C-List on and off for weeks. I'd go and have a look and a ride.

Bring a tape measure. Looking at the big chainring in the pic, it should be about 6 - 7 inches in diameter, assuming a 46 tooth. Double that and add a couple inches, and I believe the seat tube is indeed 16". Visualize the top tube as being horizontal and measure the intersect point on the seat post, just above where the rear light wraps around. You'll likely find that the bike is really a 20" or even a 21". Perfect for a person who is 5' 8".

Offer $145. Settle at $155. Decent bike. Fabulous tires if they are Marathon Plus.

JCM thank you for all the extra info. Yes you are right it has been off and on for awhile. I think i will run out on sunday and take a look.

+1. At 5'7, a Columbia Diamondback was too small for me and it was a 15 inch frame. It could be done but you'd need a really long seat stem.
I concern myself more with the standover height (distance of highest point of topbar to ground) of the bike since the moment of truth comes when I straddle over the topbar at stopsigns and the metal meets the meat. A 32-33 standover is just right for me. Anything higher than that is a no-no and I'll be talking in a higher pitched voice.
I always email buyers or call and ask for the standover height.
Ernest

Here's another one in the area that is about the size of the bike in question, but with a horizontal top tube. This is approximately your size. Remember that sizing a production, off the shelf bike is a matter of compromise. A couple cm's here and there won't amount to a hill-o-beans. That said, stand over is something that I go higher on. I prefer a taller fit because it gives me more adjustment options as to stem length, etc. If it just brushes the jewels, it's ok with me. EDIT: There was a day when all road bikes were fitted that way.

http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/bik/1024933766.html

Hey JCM Thanks for the help and the link on craigslist. In your opion, what do you think of the bike you suggested. I am new to commuting so i want to make sure i start out right so that i don't get frustrated or upset with what i purchased. I am going to try to go out Sunday to look at it. Thanks. Brad

Those are pretty expensive. I bought a similar bike for $60 this time last year, in San Francisco.

That bike has seen alot of upgrades - hence the asking price. Bone stock, it would be worth about $125 to $150 in this market, assuming good steel. STX rapid fire mtb shifters are decent. The new crankset with a 50 big ring and an 11 tooth small cog will give plenty of speed, especially with road type wheels. With cro-moly double-butted tubing, it should weigh about 26-27lbs. or, about the same as a $1200 Trek 520 tour bike. If it weighs more than say, 30lbs, it's probably Hi-Tensile, and isn't worth more than $80 - $100.

Take a bathroom scale with you to view both bikes. I think they are of comparable quality, with an edge to the Univega because of the more numerous upgades. Since they are about the same, go with the lighter one, assuming you can dicker a bit. I hate it when people come by to take a look at a bike I have for sale, then try to low-ball me like a garage sale squid. You can't blame a guy for trying to price it to cut his losses. If they are in the 26 - 28lb range, and everything works well, you should be able to reasonably walk away (or rideaway) for 15% less than what the asking price is. Allow 1-1/2lbs for the racks. The lights and stuff do not amount to more than a few ounces.

That bike is a bit too small for you. I mean, it would certainly get you to work okay, but there are a LOT of bikes in Seattle, and you may as well hold out for one that fits you well. You'll be happier in the long run.

I agree that the seller is asking too much. I sold a very well-maintained bike of similar quality and vintage eight months ago, and I was really happy to get $100 for it.

Buyer's remorse can be a by-product of C-List, it's true. I've simply given up on second guessing myself, since I've bought and sold so many bikes there. Here's a couple of bikes from C-Cist that I bought that are very similar interms of quality steel frames, verus low-end Hi-tensile steel.

Both the Raliegh Elkhorn and the Trek 930 were very good bike. But, the Taiwan Raliegh fetches little today, while the 930 is somewhat sought after because it was one of the last US handmade lugged MTB's from Trek.

The Raliegh cost me $40. The Trek, $140 (asking price, $175 all banged up). I'm currently riding the Raleigh almost everyday. The Trek I sold for $250 after i did some swapping out for better shifter, an older, better crankset (BioPace) and good tires. The Brooks saddle I kept, which is now on the Raliegh.

Both bikes are made of high quality steel, and are, in my opinion, equal as to relative value. It's a C-List thing...

So a couple of bikes i have looked at have grip shifters and some have the trigger shift (?) i have like the grip shift but i have heard they do not hold up as well. Any truth to this. I would love any thoughts on this. Thanks

Ya got me on that.
I don't have any experience with grip shifters. The old school thumb shifters (Deore SIS) have been my main types. These can be set to both friction and index modes in about a second. Other types I've used have been bar end shifters, which work the same way - also, no problems. Right now I have two road bikes with brifter types. One has all Shimano 105 (mid-price, very good stuff) and the other is an older 1995 roadie with entry-level Shimano RSX which was much like 105 except it was for 7 speed bikes. Both work flawlessly.

By "trigger shift" do you mean Rapid Fire? Very common, and it comes in various price grades like all the others mentioned. I don't knoew the actual mechanics involved, but Rapid Fire performs like brifters.

EDIT: Here's a site that has Shimano shift systems listed by hierachy. http://mc2.vicnet.net.au/home/vichpv...manoparts.html

There's alot of grip shifts around. It's probably fine.

Thanks JCM. Again i appreciate all the help and info you have given me. Brad