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Old 02-11-09, 11:58 PM
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Originally Posted by NEXUS
Does anyone here know if the magnets have to be set exactly opposite of each other
No it doesn't matter. I'm only running one magnet because I found the vibration annoying, will probably put the other on in the winter.
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Old 02-12-09, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by GRedner
The magnets don't have to be placed exactly opposite one another. If they're offset the wheel will have a slight hop, but certainly less than from having a spoke-reflector or whatnot. Not a problem at all.
I get no hop from my spoke reflector. It weighs about the same as the valve stem, and is opposite it. It actually REDUCES wheel hop.
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Old 02-12-09, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by GRedner
What they mean by "no spinning resistance" is that there is no mechanical friction. As you said, you can't get something for nothing - the energy to make the lights flash comes from the kinetic energy of the wheel. Their point is that unlike a crappy generator light that drags a rotor along your rim, there's negligable mechanical friction, so the energy transfer is about as efficient as one could hope for.

The magnets don't have to be placed exactly opposite one another. If they're offset the wheel will have a slight hop, but certainly less than from having a spoke-reflector or whatnot. Not a problem at all.
Thank you for your reply.
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Old 02-12-09, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by znomit
No it doesn't matter. I'm only running one magnet because I found the vibration annoying, will probably put the other on in the winter.

But with one magnet you get less blinks and on a SL120 you would probably get much less capcitor charge.
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Old 02-12-09, 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by dynaryder
If you're rolling platforms,you might want to consider a set of these:
https://www.pedalite.com/

On in 5min with a pedal wrench,you get side lights,and they cover both sides of the bike.
Had 'em. As some others have mentioned the need to be able to get the right side of the pedal around was a pain.... PLUS the generator in the left pedal failed within 6 mos (not saying it's a MFR failure, simply a failure). All told, I disliked them enough that I'm not bothering asking for a replacement pedal.

My reelights are WAY better / easier / cooler.

If I ever get jonesing for lighted pedals, I might try Ledals, yeah they need batteries. But, from the reviews I've read the batteries last a LONG time and they solve the issues with pedalites...
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Old 02-12-09, 02:31 PM
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Hey jdmitch, I found these generater pedals online. They are cheap and only come in red LED for both sides but thats really all you need.

Here is a video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gta3j...eature=related
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Old 04-25-09, 10:58 PM
  #32  
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Just bought the sl 150s: they suck

I just wrote a review for Amazon and thought I'd post it here too. I'm very disappointed by the SL150

I just installed my Reelight set this afternoon. I went for a 1.5 mile grocery run after dusk just so I could give the new lights a trial run. I'm quite disappointed in the light's performance. It has a few good qualities, but doesn't come close to justifying it's high price.

Installation was easy and only requires a phillips screwdriver. It's so easy that there are no instructions included, only a four step graphic on the back of the box. Installation takes about 15-20 minutes. They do work fine with my quick release skewers, which was a slight initial concern for me.

I own four bicycles and I bought this set for my neighborhood cruiser / grocery getter: an Electra Townie Euro 8D. In the past, I have bought everything from cheap $20 blinky lights, to a $380 hub-generator setup. I am very experienced with various bicycle lighting setups, and this is the worst light set I have ever encountered.

This review is for the Reelight SL150, which features steady lighting (as opposed to blinking) and built-in capacitors to keep the lights burning for a short period of time after stopping, commonly referred to as a "stand light."

I chose the steady SL150 over the flashing lights to compliment the battery-powered blinky I already own (SL120 flashes with stand light, SL100 flashes with no stand light). Battery powered lights are best in flashing mode. I already own the amazing Planet Bike Superflash which runs for many many hours on a single AAA battery in flash mode, with a very eye-catching pattern. I wanted a solid light for contrast and added visibility. When battery powered LED lights are left in solid-light mode they eat batteries quickly, so I bought this setup due to it's generator setup to conserve battery waste.

Both the front and rear lights have two small LEDs. Modern LEDs range from dim lights that illuminate power buttons on home theatre equipment, to incredible 5watt lamps that put out as much light as a 60-watt incandescent bulb. The lights in this kit are exactly like the dim bulbs that clutter the buttons on electronic equipment. They emit light, but just enough light to be visible, not to grab your attention. The light output is similar to widely available $10 light sets.

I knew these were considered "be seen" lights rather than "see-by" lights. I didn't expect these lights to actually illuminate my path. I did expect them to draw some attention from traffic, which they do not. The lights also provide almost no side visibility. I don't think side visibility was even taken into account when designing these lights.

The stand light function is very poor. Stand lights should stay lit long enough to make it through a traffic light, one or two minutes. The stand light on this model only lasts about ten seconds, which is absolutely useless.

I only have a few good things to say about them. I do like the mounting bracket because it makes the lights difficult to steal. I like the fact that the light housing includes a reflector in case of light failure. Mounting the lights on the axle is a good idea because a lot of rear lights don't have a good visible mounting location. The permanent-on installation is nice because it keeps my bike in legal compliance after dark without remembering to grab my lights. The lights create zero perceivable drag while in operation.

Considering the fact that similar, dim battery-powered lights cost under $15/pair, these should sell for under $40. I paid $65 here at Amazon, and Amazon's price is competitive with other online retailers for this product. This is a great idea poorly executed. Hopefully some day the manufacturer will find a way to get it working better.

For anyone considering this product, I recommend that you spend a lot less on a Planet Bike superflash and a good quality led flashlight that can be mounted on the handlebars. A setup like that can be bought for under $50 and will give you rear visibility of about 1/4-mile and usable illumination of your path.

If you are sold on generator lighting, spend the $160 for a good bottle generator setup or $350 on a good hub generator setup.

Spending $65 on this set is not does not save any money. When you compare the price to quality generator setups it seems like a great value, but comparing this to a B&M generator setup is like comparing a Wal Mart bike to a fully outfilled touring bike.
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Old 04-26-09, 04:26 PM
  #33  
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My understanding is that the SL150s exist only because certain countries (Sweden, looking at you) actually prohibited bicycles from using flashing lights. As such, it's design is a lousy compromise.

Reelights don't generate much power, and the most effective way for a low-powered light to be visible is to emit extremely short, bright bursts. The SL100s do this decently, by only emitting light when the magnet passes. The SL120s do it better, by decoupling the flashing from the power input, allowing the flashing pattern to be optimized.

SL150s go in exactly the wrong direction. By emitting light constantly, the brightness has to be tuned *way* down to get in line with the average power input. I've never seen them in action, but I can certainly imagine they'd be pretty useless, with the caveat that they're perhaps better than nothing, but not by much.

Incidentally, Sweden has since legalized flashing lights on bikes: https://www.reelight.com/Default.aspx...460&NewsID=183
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Old 04-27-09, 04:48 AM
  #34  
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My SL120's certainly seem to be far more effective than the SL150's reviewed above. The power output of the flashing LEDs appears to be very comparable to simple battery-powered units. During the winter months, I pair these with one front- and one rear-facing helmet-mounted flashing LEDs for extra visibility.
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Old 04-27-09, 05:09 AM
  #35  
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The 150s do not have a standlight, yes perhaps the 120s are a better option.
In terms of brightness, they are reasonably directional. I didn't really appreciate them until I flipped the bike over, spun the wheel and ran to the end of the driveway to check them out.
They are not bad. Certainly better than most of the blinkies I saw out tonight with half flat batteries!
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Old 04-27-09, 08:04 PM
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Hey, i have the reelights (120) and I also want to add a dynamo hub to my bike, does anyone know of any issues with having both, ie. electrical or otherwise?
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