damn thing won't budge!
 

I am trying to install clipless pedals and I've run into a slight problem. You guessed it... The old pedal is stuck.

Allow me to get the obvious out of the way.
I have done this:
• Block beneath the crank
• Brake release set overnight on the threads
• Pound the crap out of the wrench
I haven't done this:
• Figured out how to get the pedal off

I'm afraid I'll have to buy a new crankset. But thats not a possibility for me.

Any suggestions?

Edit:
-If I do have to get a new crank set, what would be a "more affordable" option with out sacrificing quality?

Try to fit a pipe over the wrench to give you some more torque.
I have the same problem on one of my bikes and even with the pipe it still won't budge. It is at least worth a shot though.

Maybe someone else could chime in on this... but, if memory serves me correct; one of the pedals is Left handed thread... in other words you turn it to the right to loosen it. I'm thinking it is the pedal on the left side of the crank set. Just a thought, I know they used to be made that way on older bikes, but I don't know what type of bike you have. :)

WD40 to loosen, and the pipe trick.

also, hit the end of the pedal arm, the part of the inside of the crank. Using a hammer with a blunt metal object. NOT enough to damage the pedal, just enough to unstick the threads.

I'd take it to my LBS and have them get the pedal off before I sprung for a new crankset. That would be cheaper.

Might be a dumb question but are you sure you're turning it in the correct direction? Left pedals are reverse threaded.

Oh, and when you put the new pedals on; they don't have to be all that tight. They are threaded so that the direction of pedaling (forward) is the direction of tightening.

Took some time to look it up but I am sure of it now.... the Left non-drive side pedal is Left handed thread, so if you didn't already know this, it's something to bear in mind... It turns clockwise to loosen it.

Remove the crankarm with pedal stuck in place, and put the crankarm in a vise.

Take the pedal apart, if it is one that can be disassembled, so that you have just the shaft left stuck in the crankarm. If its not one you can take apart use a hacksaw cut the pedal off, leaving as much of the shaft as possible.

With the crankarm in a vise, verify the direction you need to turn the pedal shaft to loosen it, and use a pipe wrench to take it out. Use a cheater bar if necessary, but you should be able to apply enough force and leverage this way to remove even the worst stuck part.

I'm going to cry if this works! :twitchy: Some one deserves a beating if that's the design (not you of course). Thanks I'm going to go try it now. I'll BRB.

********

Edit:

I'm back and crying! :bang: OMG I've been beating on this thing! I hope I didn't damage my crankset. Well anyhow, another mystery solved. Thank you so much!

I wish I could have found this is another thread before I started working.. I must be bad at searching these forums, I'm sure there's a thread some where about this.

I'm going to wear my dunce cap the rest of the day, man I'm an idiot! All who read this feel free to insert laughing at my expense here -->_______

OK, its been ten minutes. You done crying?

Need a hanky?;)

Don't sweat it. I think just about everybody has done this at one time or another.:thumb:

Mechanically, bikes are a little quirky until you get to know them pretty well. If you're going to be doing your own wrenching, invest in a generic book. I have both of Zinn's books (Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance, Zinn and the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance) and refer to them fairly often, especially if I am taking on a new-to-me task.

Or, if you have ready internet access where you are wrenching, you could refer to Sheldon Brown's site too. I like having the books handy.

Lots of good tips here http://bicycletutor.com/replace-pedals/ :D

I don't think anyone deserves a beating for threading cranks so that pedals stay on when people ride their bikes.;)

Some good info here, too: http://www.parktool.com/repair/

First off: That's what she said.

Secondly, stepping on the wrench has always given me enough torque for stuck pedals, freewheels, etc.

Designed this way, so the pedal does not disassemble itself while you are riding.

When you start doing bottom brackets, remember what you have learned today. Same situation!

Please be careful when you beat yourself! You may want to keep a towel handy in case you make a mess.

I guess by now, it's clear that the left pedal is threaded that way so it doesn't loosen while cranking...

don't forget to grease the threads of the new pedals when you install them!!!:thumb:

Plus, you may want to hit the park tools website before you work on something for the first time. I suffer from the same issue and finally figured out that research before hand saves me a ton of wasted effort and frustration.

You are welcome... glad I could help.

Blame it on Orville and Wilbur. It was their big contribution to bicycling before they adapted bicycle technology to invent the airplane.

1) I suggest the Park Big Blue Book of Bicycle Repair. Honestly, I just figured out how to work on bike stuff myself, but even so, this thing's actually a good read in and of itself.
2) I've had a few instances where the pedals really were pretty much stuck. When that happens: propane torch on the outside. It'll come right off after you expand the socket a bit.
3) put grease or better yet anti-seize compound on the threads before you put it back together again.

As an aside, it's kind of interesting why the pedals are threaded that way. If you think about it, if the bearings were to seize up or drag, you'd actually want the right side to be left handed and vice versa. The reason they are they way they are is that the shafts tend to precess as you pedal; that actually does make the right side tend to spin clockwise into the crankset and the left side spin ccw.

Hmm... good point. :)

Not to make you cry more, but the threads are supposed to be designed like this. Take a close look at either the new or old pedals. They may have an arrow pointiing to the left or right indicating which way the threads are. Some even say the word left or right on the pedal near the arrow and I have seen some that say left thread and right thread. If the threads were not designed like this one of the pedals would come off when you are riding.

Also are you using an actual pedal wrench? If not, trust me on this, buy a Park Tools one. Go to your LBS and see if they sell them. You'll spend good money on them, but they are worth it and you should never need a pipe for extra torque and leverage. If you do, there is something wrong and at that point I'd take the bike to the shop.

Important clarification, however: on English threaded bottom brackets (by far the most common, particularly nowadays), it's the right side cup that is left-hand threaded, not the left side as it is with pedals.