Pedal and Shoe Question with a Twist
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
Mentioned: Post(s)
Tagged: Thread(s)
Quoted: Post(s)
Pedal and Shoe Question with a Twist
I have a pedal and shoe question for you nice folks here. But there's a twist. It's my right foot, which because of a severely knocked right knee is angled out 25-30 degrees. See my legs in the photo below, taken when I weighed a lot more than I do now.
(This means clipless is out of the question - I've tried, even Speedplay's tech department said they couldn't suggest anything.) It's also a 12 EEEE foot.
What I'm looking for is:
- a pedal that is both wide enough for my feet and gripping enough I can stand on the pedals even in wet weather without slipping. I have standard metal platform pedals on the bikes now. Even with extenders on the crankarms I need to position my feet carefully to avoid heel strike. Too often this means pedaling with my arch on the right.
- and shoes that have a stiff sole. I currently ride with the Sette Rival II shoe, which is cheap and functional, but doesn't grip well and doesn't go on and off easily. They are designed to accept SPD cleats, so they have a very stiff sole. I find it uncomfortable to ride in soft soled shoes, so I'd rather not use ordinary sneakers and the like.
Any suggestions, folks?
(This means clipless is out of the question - I've tried, even Speedplay's tech department said they couldn't suggest anything.) It's also a 12 EEEE foot.
What I'm looking for is:
- a pedal that is both wide enough for my feet and gripping enough I can stand on the pedals even in wet weather without slipping. I have standard metal platform pedals on the bikes now. Even with extenders on the crankarms I need to position my feet carefully to avoid heel strike. Too often this means pedaling with my arch on the right.
- and shoes that have a stiff sole. I currently ride with the Sette Rival II shoe, which is cheap and functional, but doesn't grip well and doesn't go on and off easily. They are designed to accept SPD cleats, so they have a very stiff sole. I find it uncomfortable to ride in soft soled shoes, so I'd rather not use ordinary sneakers and the like.
Any suggestions, folks?
#2
Thunder Whisperer
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: NE OK
Posts: 8,847
Bikes: '06 Kona Smoke
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 275 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
2 Posts
I haven't a clue about shoes, but you might want to check the Kona Jack*****'s. Nice big platforms and very grippy.
__________________
Community guidelines
Community guidelines
#3
Lifer
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 250
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I'm not totally sure this is what you are looking for, but it works great for me. I switched my road bike from Crank Bros. Candy Pedals to some gigantic freeride style pedals. The things are huge and have spikes coming out of them. They actually stick better in my softer shoes than on boots. They stick so well that you can get a little back pressure to get your pedal into position at a stop light or help a little on a hill.
The image is of a Crank Bros version, but others make them as well. Mine are from Specialized. Mallet also makes some cheaper ones.
I also enjoy the combo of a Dura Ace set with gross freeride pedals. It pisses off the roadies good.
If you are going to build an abomination, paint it GOLD!
The image is of a Crank Bros version, but others make them as well. Mine are from Specialized. Mallet also makes some cheaper ones.
I also enjoy the combo of a Dura Ace set with gross freeride pedals. It pisses off the roadies good.
If you are going to build an abomination, paint it GOLD!
#4
Call me The Breeze
I usually run clipless, but on my commuter bike I use these (mine are branded diamondback, but they are the same otherwise)
I wear army boots with them (11E) and they work great. Lots of grip, comfortable large platform, very durable and tough and as an added bonus, they are inexpensive (~20 bucks)
Like the others have suggested, you're pretty much looking for a BMX/Freeride pedal. There are lots to choose from.
I wear army boots with them (11E) and they work great. Lots of grip, comfortable large platform, very durable and tough and as an added bonus, they are inexpensive (~20 bucks)
Like the others have suggested, you're pretty much looking for a BMX/Freeride pedal. There are lots to choose from.
#5
YAT-YAS
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Highland, IN
Posts: 820
Bikes: Old Green
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Can you use toe clips and straps? Or a power strap?
__________________
Master Guns Crittle, You out there??
"A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion, butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders, give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight efficiently and die gallantly. Specialization is for insects." -Robert A. Heinlein
Master Guns Crittle, You out there??
"A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion, butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders, give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight efficiently and die gallantly. Specialization is for insects." -Robert A. Heinlein
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 798
Bikes: Jamis Coda
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
What I would think you need to do, is really get a custom crank arm machined so that the whole arm is angled out o match the angle of your foot on the forward part of the stroke. This would place the pedal far enough out so your heel would clear the chain and chainrings.
Second best would be to have a block machined to thread into the crank arm that places the pedal out the required amount.
As far as stiffening the shoe, maybe the 661 Ankle Biter would help out, if you can't find a grippy stiff shoe, at least you could find a grippy shoe and try stiffening it that way.
Second best would be to have a block machined to thread into the crank arm that places the pedal out the required amount.
As far as stiffening the shoe, maybe the 661 Ankle Biter would help out, if you can't find a grippy stiff shoe, at least you could find a grippy shoe and try stiffening it that way.
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 139
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
Mentioned: Post(s)
Tagged: Thread(s)
Quoted: Post(s)
#10
Call me The Breeze
If you did that, it would only be the correct angle for a very small portion of the pedal stroke... and 180 degrees from that point would be opposite of what you needed making the problem twice as bad!
#11
Destroyer of Wheels
Nashbar has something similar - I have them on all my bikes and love them. Around $30.
__________________
The Almighty Clyde FAQ || Northeast Index
eTrex Vista References || Road Reference
It's the year of the enema!
The Almighty Clyde FAQ || Northeast Index
eTrex Vista References || Road Reference
It's the year of the enema!
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Mentioned: Post(s)
Tagged: Thread(s)
Quoted: Post(s)
I see a lot of suggestions for BMX pedals and MTB pedals with pins in them. Perhaps that the way to go. And I think I found a better shoe than the ones I'm using.
The Sette Enduro shoe:
#13
Call me The Breeze
If you go with BMX or downhill pedals... just keep in mind if your food does slip off, those things will give you a nasty beartrap!
#15
Lifer
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 250
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
^^^ That is a good suggestion. I used to joke about putting my Freeride pedals on my fixed gear bike, calling it :the meat grinder". It's really only a problem when you are wearing shorts or nice shoes.
In some ways I prefer wearing this sort of stuff when I have to have nicer shoes on because they don't require straps that WILL mess things up.
Per an earlier question, anything with spikes/screws sticking out of it, wet weather doesn't bother them too much, but it's better to have softer soles that the screws can dig into a bit. I use a gummy sole moccasin and it's great in any weather.
In some ways I prefer wearing this sort of stuff when I have to have nicer shoes on because they don't require straps that WILL mess things up.
Per an earlier question, anything with spikes/screws sticking out of it, wet weather doesn't bother them too much, but it's better to have softer soles that the screws can dig into a bit. I use a gummy sole moccasin and it's great in any weather.
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 798
Bikes: Jamis Coda
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
That is incorrect, the pedal would still be on the same axis, perpendicular to the frame. It would place the pedal farther out, matching the point where the toe is when the heel is in a point where it will not interfere with the crank and chain...imagine moving your foot in a pedaling motion, now keeping the heel following the same circle, rotate the toe outward...now imagine a crank that would reach out to meet the position of the toe, but angled in such a way as to keep it from hitting the heel.
#17
Scan Me
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 771
Bikes: 2009 Trek 2.3, 2010 Specialized Secteur Sport
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
If I were you, I'd probably take a generic pedal and weld or bolt a homemade extended size platform to it. Like a block of wood with rubber treading glued on. Perhaps even screw a pair of shoes permanently to it - kind of like triathletes and their pre-clipped in shoes for transitions.
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Mentioned: Post(s)
Tagged: Thread(s)
Quoted: Post(s)
If I were you, I'd probably take a generic pedal and weld or bolt a homemade extended size platform to it. Like a block of wood with rubber treading glued on. Perhaps even screw a pair of shoes permanently to it - kind of like triathletes and their pre-clipped in shoes for transitions.
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 798
Bikes: Jamis Coda
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Perhaps I've overstated the problem, prompting such a radical suggestion. My legs work well enough to pedal me 2000-3000 miles a year. The only 'special' modifications I have to the bike are Kneesaver extenders. I'm looking for an improved pedal/shoe combination, just like any other cyclist might.
Ah, okay...if you might like to go clipless and you know of a good cobbler where you live, check this page, but I'll highlight the part that seems important.
We have inserts to change your leather shoes from nails to screws. That hardware also allows us to add threaded holes in the sole of any shoe, leather or nylon, to change or add cleat format. For example, our employee bought a beautiful pair of wingtips (maybe $200 new, but just $10 at a thrift store) to which we added threaded inserts for a mountain bike cleat and a shoemaker bonded in some tread from a Vibram soled workboot. End result? A formal dress on/off road pair of the most comfortable shoes a man could ever own! Threaded inserts are so much neater, but mostly they're simpler to make small changes to cleat angle.
This might be at least calling the store and talking to a local cobbler (or maybe a store that specializes in custom orthotics.
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Mentioned: Post(s)
Tagged: Thread(s)
Quoted: Post(s)
Ah, okay...if you might like to go clipless and you know of a good cobbler where you live, check this page, but I'll highlight the part that seems important.
A good cobbler should be able to figure out the proper angle to mount the plate to accomodate the angle that your knee requires. then you could go clipless.
This might be at least calling the store and talking to a local cobbler (or maybe a store that specializes in custom orthotics.
A good cobbler should be able to figure out the proper angle to mount the plate to accomodate the angle that your knee requires. then you could go clipless.
This might be at least calling the store and talking to a local cobbler (or maybe a store that specializes in custom orthotics.
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 798
Bikes: Jamis Coda
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I'd talk to the guys at the store and see what all they have to say about it and see if they can email you some pictures of various installs that you can then show to a cobbler and talk about your needs.
#22
Scan Me
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 771
Bikes: 2009 Trek 2.3, 2010 Specialized Secteur Sport
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Ah, okay...if you might like to go clipless and you know of a good cobbler where you live, check this page, but I'll highlight the part that seems important.
A good cobbler should be able to figure out the proper angle to mount the plate to accomodate the angle that your knee requires. then you could go clipless.
This might be at least calling the store and talking to a local cobbler (or maybe a store that specializes in custom orthotics.
A good cobbler should be able to figure out the proper angle to mount the plate to accomodate the angle that your knee requires. then you could go clipless.
This might be at least calling the store and talking to a local cobbler (or maybe a store that specializes in custom orthotics.
If heel clearance because of toe-out is the issue, perhaps you could use spacers on the pedal to extend it further.